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Old 07-30-2010, 10:05 AM #22
Uziel Gal
It's not a Geo2, honest..
 
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Entirely down to myself - there's one last section I want to add before it is stuck, and just haven't been finding the time to finish off the thread. When I do (eventually) finish, it will indeed be stuck.
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Old 08-01-2010, 12:05 AM #23
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great write up
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Old 08-01-2010, 02:49 PM #24
Uziel Gal
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OK, time to finally finish this thread off with some directions on changing the board.

The first thing to mention of course is that if you want to install an Emortal board, you need to have the AM frame. That means having the Etek3 AM in the first place, or if you have the Etek3 LT, buying and installing the metal parts upgrade kit to turn your LT in to an AM.

As far as installation of a new board is concerned, the first thing you need to do is remove the grips to expose the board.

In this case, the LCD equipped Emortal board is fitted, as this is how the marker came to me. Normally, you would have the stock LED board, and would be fitting the LCD board.



Carefully unplug the battery from the harness, and then carefully unplug the eye wires, solenoid wire and the microswitch wire.

To avoid pulling the wires out of the plugs, I suggest using a simple "chip puller", which allows you to hold and pull on the plugs, rather than the wires.



With the wires unplugged, you can then remove the board from the frame - just pull the board directly away from the frame, firmly but gently.

The board is held in place, top and bottom, by rubber inserts.



These normally come out with the board, though this isn't always the case.

On removal of the board, you can see the spaces where the inserts sit in the frame.





The frame inserts are slotted on both sides. Depending which way around the inserts are inserted in to the frame, the slot may be closer to the back of the frame, or further away.

This in turn moves the board closer to or further from the back of the frame. This is necessary, because the Emortal board's LCD screen makes the board wider, and as such, it cannot sit as close to the back of the frame as the LED board allows. Having the reversible inserts with different board slots, allows you to configure the frame to hold the narrower LED board or the wider LCD board.

Here is the LCD board, showing the inserts arranged so that the slots hold the board further from the frame.....



.....and here are the inserts configured for the LED board.





Now, before we actually insert the new board in to the frame, we need to remove the old control panel from the marker. This is held on by double sided tape, and should be fairly easy to remove. Lift up a corner of the old panel, and it should just pull off.

Use some rubbing alcohol to remove any stickyness from the pocket out of which you removed the old control panel. Let this dry thoroughly, then peel off the backing from the new control panel, and press it down in to the pocket firmly.

Here are the old board and panel that you are removing, and below that picture, the frame with the new control panel installed, now with three pads for the Emortal board's three switches, and a viewing window for the LCD.





When re-inserting the board, you may wish to hold the frame so that the backstrap of the grip is pointing straight down, as otherwise, the buttons on the back of the control panel - that press the switches on the board - can extend in to the frame and stop the board going in to the frame easily.



So, having aligned the inserts correctly to account for the boards thickness, push the board in to the slots in the inserts. Then push the inserts in to the holes in the frame. Finally, plug the wires back in to the board, and insert the battery. Finally replace the grips in the frame.

As long as you rotate the inserts correctly for the board to be spaced from the frame correctly, change the panel after removing the old board and before inserting the new board, make sure the buttons are out of the way, and are careful around the wires, you can't really go wrong.

Last edited by Uziel Gal : 09-01-2010 at 05:40 PM.
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Old 09-01-2010, 05:31 PM #25
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Thank you SO much!
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Old 09-17-2010, 11:38 PM #26
BruceDanzig
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this makes me want a etek 3 even more cant wait to get one
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Old 10-17-2010, 03:45 PM #27
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nice break-down
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Old 11-01-2010, 11:58 PM #28
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awesome info....
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:01 PM #29
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Great breakdown.
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Old 07-05-2011, 08:08 AM #30
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awesone breakdown w/ pics
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Old 07-11-2011, 03:38 AM #31
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Great help!
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Old 08-02-2011, 08:12 PM #32
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awesome help. thanx
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Old 08-22-2011, 02:17 AM #33
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quick question, in the OP it says to lightly grease the manifold-to-solenoid gasket. can the same be said for the manifold-to-frame gasket? is dow33 ok?
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Old 08-22-2011, 02:46 AM #34
Uziel Gal
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Yes and yes.

Only use a really light smear of grease here though - we are just looking to moisten the gasket, not have cakes of grease everywhere. A tiny amount of grease can help to promote a seal where as lots of grease could actually lead to leaks.
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Old 09-19-2011, 07:38 PM #35
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woah lotta pics i was sooo close to getting one of these but my friend sold it before i could get it from him
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Old 09-19-2011, 10:28 PM #36
sam90
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sticky this !!!!!!!
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Old 09-20-2011, 12:06 AM #37
Uziel Gal
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It's already stuck.....
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Old 09-28-2011, 10:17 AM #38
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Sweet breakdown w/pics, Uziel Gal.
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Old 10-12-2011, 09:45 PM #39
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Impressive
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Old 10-25-2011, 01:22 AM #40
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Only thing missing (for me as a new player) is a definition of terms and acronyms. This is great for me as a new etek owner.
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Old 10-25-2011, 02:01 AM #41
Uziel Gal
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Apologies - there is no doubt terminology that comes so naturally to some of us that it doesn't occur to that it might not be clear to everyone.

If you post up any queries you have about specific phrases, I'd be more than happy to explain.
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Old 12-31-2011, 01:11 PM #42
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nice
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