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Old 11-28-2009, 12:54 PM #1
Uziel Gal
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Etek(3) tech thread - picture heavy

OK, first thing to mention, is that the marker featured in this thread is a prototype, so there may be small differences between this marker, and a full production model.

Secondly, while this thread concentrates on the new Etek3, a lot of the information in relation to the disassembly and maintenance of the Etek3 will apply equally to the Etek and Etek2. Yes, the Etek3 is quite different to the two previous Etek models, but it differs more in specific parts than in the general function of the marker.

So, no need to faff about, let's dive in.

*****

OK, just the pictures to start off with - words will follow before too long.

Hopefully Ben won't be too disgusted, by my poor attempts at photography.....

To start, here's some external views of the marker, showing some of the new parts that have been added: -


First, an overview of the marker as a whole.




The new lever clamping feed neck.






The stock two-piece barrel, featuring simple milling, but just as a good an internal finish as any other Planet barrel. Like Planet's other two-piece barrels, the two parts are reverse threaded.


The groove in the bolt pin has an o-ring installed, presumably to improve your grip on it, or maybe just for comfort.


The new frame and trigger.


The Ego9/Geo style OOPS ASA.


Not a new feature - the T-Slot ASA mount has been used since the Ego7, and was introduced to the Etek range with the Etek2, but there may still be some people who haven't seen it.


Under the ASA are two screw holes, within which are the two screws that lock the ASA in to the T-Slot. You need to loosen these two screws in order to remove the ASA from the frame.


The prototype Etek3 I received had the LCD Emortal board upgrade pre-installed - this picture shows the LCD screen of the Emortal board, and the corresponding control console for the LCD board.

The stock LED board comes with a different console: -




The S3, self purging regulator, as found (in slightly different versions - the Geo version has a narrower pressure adjustment range) on the Ego9, Ego10 and Geo.


The front of the marker, showing where some of the milling has been simplified (the front of the marker is flatter and less streamlined than on an Ego), the LPR body vent first seen on the Ego10, and the Torpedo hose barb that carries air to the solenoid - this addition is necessary, as the front reg mount is now an integral part of the marker, and so a hose barb can no longer be attached to the rear of the FRM to carry air to the solenoid.

You cannot really tell from this picture, but you also have the new LPR internals that were first introduced with the SL8R - we'll see those later.

*****

That's the external parts of the Etek3 covered. But there's more new stuff inside.

Let's start with the parts you would see if you were to carry out the most basic maintenance on the Etek3.




Pulling up the bolt pin will allow you to pull the bolt out of the back of the marker.

This reveals that the Etek3 has a Cure bolt.

Being delrin, the bolt is subject to wear, particularly if the bolt gets dirty, so try and keep it clean. The o-rings can benefit from a smear of oil to help keep them supple, and to reduce wear on themselves and on the detents.

Last edited by Uziel Gal : 04-05-2010 at 08:03 PM.
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Old 11-28-2009, 12:54 PM #2
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Other than being cut to match the back of the Etek3, it is basically the same original Cure bolt as found in the Ego7, or offered as a free upgrade for the SL66.

However, it isn't the later version of the Cure bolt as found in the Ego8 - that had longer detent slots. This bolt still has the short detent slots, as found on the earlier versions of the original Cure bolt.




You can see here the scoop at the front of the bolt - typical of the Cure bolt design - that is designed to separate the ball in the breech from the next ball in the feed stack, and push that next back up the feed neck if it has stated to enter the breech.


The bolt pin can be removed from the bolt by pulling the pin up half way, turning it to disengage the detent from the slot in the pin, and then pulling the pin all the way out. Cover the back of the bolt when doing this, to prevent the detent and spring shooting out of the back of the bolt.


The next step in the basic maintenance of the Etek3 would be to remove the rammer to clean it and oil it's o-rings - never grease the rammer or bolt o-rings.




A quick look at the rammer cap shows that it is hollow, and has an internal o-ring and buffer.

This is necessary due to the fact that the Etek3 now comes stock with a Zick Kit: -



Air is stored in the hollow of the rammer cap. As the rammer moves backwards, the air is caught in the hollow, sealed between the rammer cap's o-ring, and the extension on the back of the rammer. The air is compressed, and slows the movement of the rammer, reducing it's impact against the bumper.


Unlike the Etek and Etek2, the Etek3 does not use an Etek specific Zick rammer. Instead, it uses the same Zick rammer as the Ego markers. The rammer cap threads are also the same. This means that the Etek3 can accept the Zick2 rammer upgrade - the Etek and Etek2 cannot.


This is the S3, self purging regulator - new to the Etek range, but previously used on the Ego9, Geo, SL94 and Ego10. Unlike most regulators, that act as a one way valve and trap air inside the marker, the S3 reg vents the air in the marker after the OOPS ASA releases the air in your macroline. As such, once you degas the marker, it cannot fire, rendering your marker entirely safe. The bolt can cycle after degassing - as the LPR does still trap some air - but there is no air to feed the valve to fire a ball.


The rear end cap can be unscrewed to access the reg's internals. Removing the macroline elbow from the reg collar would allow the collar to be removed from the end cap.


This picture shows the internals of the reg, taken out of the top section of the reg.


This picture shows the reg's piston. The brass tip of the piston covers the valve that allows the self purging function to work - this is not a user servicable part, and the brass tip should not be removed.

When servicing the HPR, the piston should be cleaned - with particular care paid to making sure that the reg seat seal (the black disk seal on the end of the brass tip) is clean - and the piston head o-ring lightly greased.

The o-ring that seals the piston neck isn't on the piston itself, but set inside the wall of the well in the reg end cap, where the pressure adjustment screw passes through. This o-ring should also be cleaned, and can be lightly greased or oiled.


This close up of the piston tip shows the seat seal, the hole that allows air to interact with the purge valve, and - due to the hole - the brass spigot that holds the seat seal in place, preventing air from getting behind the seal and lifting it up.




The pressure adjustment screw can be removed by turning it up through the top of the reg end cap.

The reg seat is located on the tip of the pressure adjustment screw. This should be kept clean, and free of scratches or dents. If the reg fails to regulate, or the pressure creeps up over time, this is an indication that either the tip of the adjuster screw, or the seal on the tip of the piston neck, is either dirty or damaged.

A leak from the bottom of the reg would suggest that o-rings on the adjuster screw are dirty, damaged or need lubricating.

A leak from around the collar suggests that the o-rings under the collar are dirty, damaged or need lubricating.


The reg has adjustment directions milled on the end cap.


A new feature of the frame is longer threaded sections - inserts in the case of the prototype frame - that when combined with shorter screws, removes the possibility of screws going too deep in to the frame and screwing in to the solenoid (or in this instance, the manifold).


Removing the two frame screws, and disconnecting the solenoid and eye wires from the board, allows the frame to be removed from the body.

The shape of the body, combined with the shape of the eye covers, means that the Etek3 body is no longer flat at the top, so it is not interchangeable with the Etek or Etek2 frames.

Last edited by Uziel Gal : 11-29-2009 at 05:58 PM.
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Old 11-28-2009, 12:54 PM #3
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The Etek3's screws have nyloc patches applied to stop them shaking loose, a feature introduced with the Geo's G-R2 upgrade kit.






These pictures show the same solenoid that has always been used on the Eteks, but now attached to the manifold that feeds air directly to the rammer housing, eliminating two lengths of LP hose, and the associated fittings.


This picture shows the hose that feeds air from the LPR to the manifold, and hence to the solenoid.


The hose connects to the "Torpedo" hose barb at the front of the marker - regulated air exits the LPR body, and enters the hose barb, which directs the air in to the LP hose, which in turn carries the air to the solenoid manifold.


The hose can be pulled free from the manifold.....


.....allowing the torpedo hose barb to then be unscrewed from the front of the marker.

There is really no need to remove the torpedo unless you are replacing the whole length of LP hose, or unless air is leaking from around the torpedo. Normally, it should just be left alone.




The screw up inside front reg mount holds the LPR body in place. It no longer holds the front reg mount on, as the FRM is integrated in to the body.


Removing the screw.....


.....allows the complete LPR assembly to be removed.

This also releases the exhaust valve and it's spring.


Unscrewing the LPR cover from the LPR body allows you to access all the internals.


The Etek3 AM has the same LPR internals first used on the SL8R - right down to the 'SL' marked LPR piston.

As with the HPR, you have a port in the LPR body that acts as the seat, and a disk seal on the end of the piston neck that is the seat seal. Both of these need to be clean and undamaged for the LPR to work correctly. Again, you have the piston head o-ring needs to be cleaned and greased, and the piston neck o-ring is set in to the wall of the well in the centre of the LPR body - that o-ring should be cleaned and oiled.


Contrary to internet rumours, the Etek3 does still have a separate rammer housing/valve guide - this isn't integrated in to the body, as introduced in the Ego7. However, the rammer housing is very narrow compared with that in the previous Eteks, allowing the body to be much narrower and lower than before.




Removing the valve plug from under the body allows the Etek3's rammer housing/valve guide to be removed.


This picture shows a comparison between the Etek3's rammer housing/valve guide (top) and the rammer housing/valve guide from an '06 Ego (bottom, with the red QEVs attached).

This isn't perspective at work - the Etek3 rammer housing is much narrower than the Ego housing, allowing for the body to be much smaller at the back. This lead to many people believing that the Etek3 had an integrated rammer housing, like the newer Egos (Ego7 and onwards).


No secrets under the eye covers - you have the same detents that have been used since the '06 Ego was released, and the same eye harness.

As is the case with all of Planet's markers, the eye wires with the red heat shrink are attached to the receiver, and should always be placed on the right hand side of the marker. This places them under the overhang created by the offset feed neck, and shelters them from any light coming in through the feed neck.

Last edited by Uziel Gal : 04-05-2010 at 07:32 PM.
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Old 11-28-2009, 12:55 PM #4
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This image shows the metal clip used to retain the trigger bracket in the frame, rather than the bracket being bolted to the frame. Once the frame is bolted on to the marker, the clip is compressed, and so holds the trigger bracket securely - the trigger doesn't shift around once the frame is bolted on.



The above is a close up of the metal retainer clip.



The trigger has a fixed spur on the rear to contact the microswitches lever.



You have an adjustable rear trigger stop screw.....



.....and adjustable front trigger stop screw, and an adjustable magnetic return force adjustment screw.....



.....which is attracted to the magnet in the front of the bracket.



You have a screw at the rear of the trigger that retains the triggers pivot pin.



This picture shows a clear shot of the trigger bracket, showing that it is solid plastic, with no roller bearings. None the less, the interaction between polished metal and smooth plastic makes for a smooth pull.

Ignore the bare metal at the top of the trigger - being that this is a prototype, the trigger was custom fitted to the bracket by Planet, leading to the finish having to be ground off. This will not be the case with the production markers.



The Etek3 uses the T-Slot ASA introduced with the Ego7. This is the version of the T-Slot ASA found on the Ego9 and Geo.

A T-shaped rail on the top of the ASA fits in to a matching slot in the bottom of the frame. Two screws that pass through the ASA then secure the ASA in place.



You can see the tips of the two screws in the picture above.



You no longer have the two, inline 10-32 threaded screws for aftermarket rails/ASA/drops.



In the picture above, you can see the T-shaped rail on top of the ASA.



Here you have the T-Shaped rail sitting in the slot in the bottom of the frame.



Pulling the insert out of the rear of the ASA allows the ASA to be disassembled. This can be done with a pair of needle nose pliers or tweezers.





The o-rings on the insert should be kept clean and greased in order to prevent leaks.



Looking back at the ASA itself, you can see a port at the top, by the knob, and another at the bottom, where the tank screws in. If you have a leak through the top hole, then you need to work on the insert o-rings. If you have a leak out of the bottom port, replace the o-ring on your tank.

Last edited by Uziel Gal : 04-05-2010 at 08:04 PM.
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Old 11-28-2009, 12:55 PM #5
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The removal of two screws from the top of the solenoid allows the removal of the solenoid from the new manifold.





There is the normal Etek gasket between the top of the solenoid and the bottom of the manifold to give the two parts an air tight seal.



Don't excessively tighten the solenoid screws - for one thing, they are thin, and could easily break, and you could distort the gasket and make it leak.

If the gasket leaks, make sure that it is clean, in one piece, and lightly greased.



Three bolts hold the manifold to the marker body.



Removing the bolts and removing the manifold allows you to see the two holes drilled in to the bottom of the body that feed air in to and out of the rammer housing (plus the three screw holes of course).



The top of the manifold reveals another gasket, used to channel air from the solenoid to the rammer housing feed holes, and back again.



Air still has to travel some distance back and forth from the solenoid to the rammer - unlike the custom solenoid in the Ego9 for instance, which delivers air directly to the rammer chamber, and vents air directly out again, with hardly any distance for the air to travel - but the manifold and gasket does eliminate two lengths of hose and the fittings used in the Etek and Etek2.

The new manifold and gasket basically do the same job, but without the extra parts.

Last edited by Uziel Gal : 04-06-2010 at 03:44 PM.
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Old 11-28-2009, 07:22 PM #6
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this is great finally some decent pics thanks
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Old 11-28-2009, 07:33 PM #7
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I would like to see some close ups of the manifold
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Old 11-28-2009, 08:39 PM #8
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Must be nice having PbN super-powers to give you all the time you need to post a thread

Great pictures so far, looking forward to more. I'm never this motivated.

*It should be noted that you have a pre-production model. Mine varies slightly from yours. Off the top of my head I noticed the bottom of the reg and the threaded inserts in the frame.
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Old 11-28-2009, 08:45 PM #9
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Man, I want the ASA and Reg so bad for my Ego7...
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Old 11-29-2009, 08:26 AM #10
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Those look like qevs on the ram housing or are those part of the noids design
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Old 11-29-2009, 09:11 AM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbadbabey View Post
I would like to see some close ups of the manifold
Off the marker I presume? I'm not sure why I even asked that question - delaying tactic I guess. I was pretty certain people would want to see the manifold and solenoid.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
Must be nice having PbN super-powers to give you all the time you need to post a thread

Great pictures so far, looking forward to more. I'm never this motivated.

*It should be noted that you have a pre-production model. Mine varies slightly from yours. Off the top of my head I noticed the bottom of the reg and the threaded inserts in the frame.
That's the problem really - not having the production marker, I don't know exactly what changes have been made. Do you actually have the threaded inserts, but a bit different, or no threaded inserts at all? Or do you have the equivalent of the inserts, but milled directly in to the frame?

As for finding the time to do this, I just made a point of getting up early on Saturday morning and getting on with it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Guy In Digi Camo View Post
Those look like qevs on the ram housing or are those part of the noids design
If you are referring to the second to last picture in the third post, that is a comparison of the Etek3 rammer housing (top) to the '06 Ego rammer housing (bottom) to show how small the Etek3 rammer housing is. The '06 Ego rammer housing is equipped with QEVs - the Etek3 housing has no QEVs, and indeed, cannot accept QEVs. The new manifold that eliminates two lengths of LP hose, prevents the attachment of QEVs.

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Old 11-29-2009, 12:33 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uziel Gal View Post
That's the problem really - not having the production marker, I don't know exactly what changes have been made. Do you actually have the threaded inserts, but a bit different, or no threaded inserts at all? Or do you have the equivalent of the inserts, but milled directly in to the frame?
I'll take a quick look over your pictures and my gun and see if I can point out the differences.

The frame has some type of protrusion around the screw threads, but (off the top of my head) I don't know if it's actually an insert or milled into the frame. I will take a look next time I have the gun apart. I am positive that the LT will use some type of insert.
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Old 11-29-2009, 06:40 PM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uziel Gal View Post
Off the marker I presume? I'm not sure why I even asked that question - delaying tactic I guess. I was pretty certain people would want to see the manifold and solenoid.
ya off the gun, more just the top so i can see how they route the air.
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Old 11-30-2009, 04:55 AM #14
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Yet another great Tech thread by Uzi

Thanks for going to the trouble of doing it
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Old 11-30-2009, 05:28 AM #15
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Frames and Inserts:

The AM Metal frame has Black anodised Threaded Inserts screwed into the frame. the prototype that Uziel has has the pre-production brass threaded inserts.

On the LT it also has threaded Aluminium Inserts in the GRN frame, but they are actually molded into the frame rather thanscrewed in.

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Old 12-01-2009, 01:27 AM #16
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Another awesome tech thread, good job Uziel.
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Old 12-01-2009, 10:25 PM #17
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Not bad, Uziel

2 Jack Wood:
This threaded version of the conical insert's idea is very clever. My applause!
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Old 12-02-2009, 05:07 AM #18
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This is a fantastic thread!
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Old 04-06-2010, 05:02 PM #19
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Apologies for the length of time it has taken to finish this one off - a big restructuring of my job a few months ago has taken up a lot of my time (change of location, trying to do two people's jobs, doing stuff I've never been trained to do..... normal story!)

Apologies also for some of the duff photos under artificial lighting - was using a new Fuji S200 EXR camera, and still not as used to it as my normal Panasonic FZs, hence some of the pics having that bright orangey-yellow cast.

Next time I get a chance, I'll finish off by showing the procedure to swap boards.

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Old 04-06-2010, 06:14 PM #20
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Awesome breakdown. Thank you!
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Old 07-30-2010, 08:30 AM #21
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I have to bump this thread, it's simply incredible, I've already saved it to my bookmarks. Why this is not a sticky is beyond me.

This makes a great addition to the manual which also has pics but no where near as detailed.

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