[ElPanda]

REMOVE INTERNALS WITH 1/4 ALLEN KEY

LUBE WHERE MENTIONED, LIGHTLY LUBE EXTERIOR ORINGS TO AID YOU WHEN YOU PUT THE GUTS BACK IN THE MARKER (DO NOT LUBE THE BACK CAP ORING)

LUBE THE INTERIOR CAN ORING LIGHTLY

SEPARATE BACK STEM FROM FRONT SECTION TO EXPOSE THE PISTON CHAMBER

REMOVE PISTON FROM CHAMBER, LUBE ALL ORINGS ON IT

THE FRONT BUMPER ON THE PISTON IS THE ONE THAT SHOULD BE CUT

REMOVE ALL 3 BACK CAP SCREWS TO REMOVE THE BACK CAP SHELL

THIS GIVES YOU ACCESS TO YOUR PUSH BUTTON

THE SCREW ON THE BOTTOM RIGHT OF THE FRAME HOLDS RAIL MOUNTED ASA'S

UNSCREW THE REG AND REMOVE THE FRAME SCREWS TO SEPARATE THE FRAME FROM BODY

BE SURE TO CAREFULLY UNPLUG THE TWO MOLEX CONNECTORS BEFORE YOU FULLY SEPARATE THE FRAME AND BODY, THE SMALLER CONNECTOR IS THE SOLENOID POWER, THE LARGER ONE IS FOR THE EYES.

SOLENOID, WIRES, WIRE TABS AND SERIAL NUMBER



FRONT CONTACT PAD IS HELD TO THE FRAME BY TWO SCREWS ON TOP

SNATCH GRIP IS HELD ON BY ONE SMALL SCREW

CONSULT THE MANUAL IF YOU HAVE ANY MORE QUESTIONS, THIS IS FOR GENERAL PURPOSE MAINTENENCE

[AndrewFalk]

Good job.

[zyzek]

Perfect.

Thanks for taking the time to do this.

[ElPanda]

THE NT IS ONE OF VERY FEW MARKERS CURRENTLY TO COME WITH ITS OWN VARIABLE USER TUNING OPTIONS OUT OF THE BOX

IT COMES WITH TWO BOLT FLOW INSERTS THAT CAN BE SWAPPED TO CATER TO USER PREFERENCES. THE RED FLOW INSERT IS IN THE BOLT STOCK, I KEEP THE BLUE IN MINE.

TO REMOVE FLOW INSERTS REMOVE THE BOLT FROM THE FIRING ASSEMBLY AND USE A SLENDER TOOL (PENCIL OR PEN WORKS GREAT) TO PUSH THE FLOW INSERT OUT THE BACK OF THE BOLT.



BLUE = HIGHER FLOW
RED= LOWER FLOW
ENSURE THAT THE LARGER END OF THE INSERT IS FACING THE REAR OF THE BOLT UPON INSTALLATION


IT ALSO COMES WITH RUBBER DUMP CHAMBER INSERTS THAT DISPLACE AIR VOLUME IN THE MARKERS DUMP CHAMBER, THIS RESULTS IN A HIGHER PRESSURE NECESSARY TO FIRE THE BALL. THIS MEANS THERE IS MORE ENERGY PER UNIT VOLUME IN THE DUMP CHAMBER, THE RESULT IS A GENERAL INCREASE IN EFFICIENCY WITH THE MORE SPACERS YOU USE.

THE SPACERS ARE EXTREMELY FLEXIBLE AND EASY TO INSTAL, THEY ARE ALL SPLIT DOWN THE SIDE AND SIMPLY WRAP AROUND THE STEM.

INSTALL THE LARGER BASE INSERT FIRST AND THE SMALLER INSERTS AROUND IT.

AGAIN CONSULT THE MANUAL FOR FURTHER INSTRUCTIONS OR IF YOU STILL HAVE QUESTIONS

[PMR4LIFE]

very nice

[Witzbold]

Nice work

[john ho]

which flow insert shoots smoother?

[guliverpaintbala]

Blue Imo

[DM-Guy]

I agree that the blue insert is much smoother then the orange one. But one I have not notice is the efficiency.

[jeremyr]

Good Job!

Sticky anyone?!

[ElPanda]

its already been stickied, haha, but thanks for the compliments everyone, hopefully this will alleviate some future unnecessary threads

[DM-Guy]

Good job on the pictoral section!

[Danny138Von]

why dont you lube the backcap o-ring?

[ElPanda]

Originally Posted by Danny138Von

why dont you lube the backcap o-ring?

there have be reported instances of lube from the back cap oring migrating to the back cap threads and causing them to lose there "grip" with the marker body, after some shooting the internals begin to unscrew from the marker. It is a static oring so it should be just fine without excess lube.

[mrg33]

Lol Great job. This this is Literally idiot proof. Personally the second i got my NT i spent 3 hours in the owners manual fine tuning things ($1550 marker, yea might be a good idea). But none the less great job.

[D-Town83]

Very Nice!

[PbN_AutoTrader]

what about complete regulator break down

[ElPanda]

I would make some pics of me disassembling my hyper 3 on my Olang IM9 but its stuck together, wont come apart even with a strap wrench.

its pretty simple you can look it up in the manual

[24gt]

I am going to visiting this thread as i m a idiot and you pretty much made it idiot proof thanks

[SplatPlanet]

thanks for the help.. I just got my white gold in the mail used and it was nasty.. had to take it apart and reclean it. Guy had lube EVERYWHERE, thanks for the help.

[coe]

How to open a stuck spool: