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Old 07-08-2011, 08:10 PM #1
wildcat65gt500
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After bwing mod velocity drops

NT10

Ok so I only did part of the mod. I just put a few wraps of tap on the spool and nothing else. Afterwards I went to chrono it and velocity was at like 230fps and this is with the hpr at 120psi. I get to ~270fps but then my hpr pressure is above 160psi ( the noid starts to leak at that point). Im going to cut the tape in half to see if that works but anyone else have any other suggestions or is it a think where you have to have all of the mod or none of it, for it to work properly? I checked all of the o-rings and everything is fine ( just rebuilt it a week ago). New fresh battery. I am overboring but that shouldn't affect anything.

On a separate note I went to take the frame off to access the eyes and noticed that the front screw head on the frame is stripped. Any suggestions on getting that screw out?
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Old 07-08-2011, 08:16 PM #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildcat65gt500 View Post
Ok so I only did part of the mod.

Why? And you are lucky because you can buy the second part of the mod from dye which is the green bolt flow tip and red bolt tip. 6 bucks won't kill ya.
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Old 07-08-2011, 08:27 PM #3
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Oh it wasnt the money just timing. It was 9pm and they are not there that late. I plan on getting the parts just havent done so yet. So is it an all or nothing mod?
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Old 07-08-2011, 08:33 PM #4
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Well for the tape to have an effect you need a bigger air flow. And also, you can't buy the green flow tip online. Just call in and order the red bolt tip and green flow insert. Shipping will also be cheaper.
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Old 07-08-2011, 11:28 PM #5
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Ok that answers that. I'll take the tape off for now until I get the other parts.Thanks
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Old 07-09-2011, 01:01 AM #6
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No problem! Also, just making sure, does it work without the tape?
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Old 07-09-2011, 02:44 PM #7
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ya took the tape off and its back to normal. Overbore velocity is 285 +-4 and reg is at 155psi. I usually underbore so I should be able to drop the pressure without any issues.
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Old 07-09-2011, 09:50 PM #8
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Ok so now that the gun is shooting good again, I need to address the stripped screw. Any ideas on how to remove the front frame screw when the head is stripped (allen key wont work)? I am thinking about using a tiny amount of JBweld on an allen key and letting it bond to the screw and then unscrewing it that way ( i have extra screws) but obviously this will be a last resort. I simply cant find any screw extractors small enough and long enough to actually get to the screw. Any help/advice is appreciated.
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Old 07-09-2011, 10:16 PM #9
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Honestly, thats the only way I would go about doing it. Just be uber careful not to **** up.
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Old 07-09-2011, 11:05 PM #10
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ya no kidding hehe. I dont want a permanently attached allen key stabbing me every 5 seconds. Before I jump into it I'll wait for any other suggestions.
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Old 07-11-2011, 04:23 PM #11
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Any chance to drill the screw a little bit to tap an EZ out into it?
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Old 07-12-2011, 11:06 AM #12
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I would but the problem is I can't find any EZouts small enough to fit the hole in the frame and still be able to reach the screw head. Kinda thinking JBweld may be my only hope.
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Old 07-12-2011, 10:03 PM #13
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you can sometimes use a slightly larger torx driver to get them out. Just tap it with a hammer until it bottoms.
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Old 07-13-2011, 01:42 PM #14
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Ya gonna try that tomorrow. Have to hit the hardware store and get one.
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Old 07-15-2011, 06:52 AM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildcat65gt500
Ya gonna try that tomorrow. Have to hit the hardware store and get one.
That's a tough one with how that screw is located, how'd you manage to strip a decent sized stainless screw anyway?
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Old 07-15-2011, 03:27 PM #16
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Well I was rather inebriated and wasnt paying attention and when I thought I was loosening it I was actually tightening it and it stripped the head. Didnt realize it till the next morning. So ya major tard moment. Unless I can find an ezout small enough I am just going to do JB weld ( I already have a plan to avoid unnecessary welding)
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Old 07-15-2011, 04:03 PM #17
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Quote:
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That's a tough one with how that screw is located, how'd you manage to strip a decent sized stainless screw anyway?
I rounded my back screw off on my nt10 due to a poor allen key. Honestly it wasnt even that hard cause the screw was really torqued on from factory.

Ive been more careful since but I do wish for a beefier head on it.
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Old 07-17-2011, 04:33 PM #18
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Can you get the frame off? And jbweld on that screw prolly won't work, there isn't enough coverage. If you can slide the frame back and off then I'd use a needle nose to grab it hard and manually turn it out.
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Old 07-19-2011, 12:08 AM #19
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no the issue is on the front bolt not that back. I should be able to get enough coverage with the JB Weld but wont be screwing with it till August. I have an event in a couple weeks and dont wanna screw anything up.

On a side note. I just put in the new red bolt tip and green insert and replaced the spool and spacer rod with the NT11 parts. I put some tape on the spool but my pressure is still at 145ish. How much tape should I be putting on the spool to make a difference? I put about 5 wraps and it is barely half way up.
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Old 07-19-2011, 10:00 AM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildcat65gt500 View Post
no the issue is on the front bolt not that back. I should be able to get enough coverage with the JB Weld but wont be screwing with it till August. I have an event in a couple weeks and dont wanna screw anything up.

On a side note. I just put in the new red bolt tip and green insert and replaced the spool and spacer rod with the NT11 parts. I put some tape on the spool but my pressure is still at 145ish. How much tape should I be putting on the spool to make a difference? I put about 5 wraps and it is barely half way up.
1/8th of an inch diameter short of the diameter of the spool.
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Old 07-21-2011, 09:36 AM #21
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^^ Ok and what should I be using as a dwell? I currently have it set at 7 iirc. I'll be screwing with it tonight and hopefully get it set up correctly.
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