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Old 10-01-2003, 07:52 PM #1
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E-Cocker FAQ -READ THIS BEFORE ASKING-

*** Pay attention! This thread is NOT for asking questions. It is for posting helpful information so other people may find it. If you have a question, post it in the normal forum, and maybe someone will put its ANSWER in this thread. Just looks how much crap I had to delete from this thread today. -CQ

I want to make this because I'm tired of people asking the same questions.

1. Q: Are black delrin bolts bad for eblade eyes?
A: No, a black one will work just as good as a white one, no matter what. Studies have been conducted, experiments and theroies exist, black and white delrin work exactly the same.

2. Q: Whats the difference bewteen A Worrblade and EBlade.
A: The WorrBlade comes with a delrin bolt and a hammer with a lug. It has a double finger style trigger and the frame has got a built in dove tail mount. The trigger guard is slightly different and offer bigger space for your fingers. The electronics and internals are the exact same and you get the very same eblade manual supplied with both. The eblade also has a double trigger however in the blade- or flat, style. Planet Eclipse also released the new samuri trigger which is thinner and lighter.

3. Q: Whats the advantages of a delrin/nylatron bolt, light pump arm and rear block. And a smooth ram?
A: The difference is weight. The lighter the bolt, pump arm and rear block the faster the gun can cycle. Really you don't need a super-light gun for speed because it will cycle quite quickly. However it is strongly recomended that you put a delrin/nylatron bolt on there, and yes sometimes cycle rates will be affected. Also, cocking pressure could be lowered with lighter externals. Now for the ram. Most high end rams on the market today will get your cocker to high rates of fire, among the list are palmers, belsales 44. magnum, freeflow's custom SMC, kapp fat ram, shocktech, and vantrepes custom SMC. The main things to look for in a ram are a smooth stroke, a lower operating pressure, and higher cycling rate. Smoother stroke is obtained by having a well polished internal bore, a lower operating pressure is acheived by having a larger internal diameter, and the higher cycling rate is achieved by a combination of the aforementioned and how well the orings seal inside the ram.

4. Q: What are QEVs?
A: QEV's stand for Quick Exaust Valves. You usually buy a pair and add them onto your ram. They go on both ends. What they do is release the used air thats used to cock your gun back. This way the exhaust air isn't forced back through the solenoid to be exhausted. This raises your cps (cycles per second) and gives you better air efficiency. For a picture of a QEV click the link, http://www.clippard.com/images/produ...ures/MEV-2.jpg
For more information: http://home.kc.rr.com/theelectrician/ (From The Electrician)

5. Q: My eye isn't working on my eblade!
A: Usually this is caused by dirt and debris on the eye. Use a cotton swab (Q-Tip) and clean it off. It is also possible that your wire is disconnected or it is pinched. Make sure it isn't pinched by taking the gripframe off. To see if it is disconnected, take the right side of the grips off and check if the gray wire is connected to one of the slots on the top left of the board. Replacement eyes can be found at planet eclipse http://www.planeteclipse.com .If it still doesn't work try cleaning the BACK of the eye. paint or dirt on the back will cause the eye to short and read incorrectly. You can try to take out the eye and boil the tip of the eye in water for a couple of mins to clear any paint from the front and back of the eye.

6. Q: Whats the best e-cocker?
A: Preference, Preference, Preference. There is no best, but some are better than others, some of the nicer models out on the market today are Freeflows, Orracles, Eclipse, Race Half-Blocks, Works, and Evolution.

7. Q: Is there a 90*/Space frame for the eblade?
A: Evolve released a prototype but nothing ever happened with that.

8. Q: Anyone want to trade/buy my gun? Anyone want to sell me their gun?
A: No; No.

9. Q: My delrin bolt swelled?
A: Heat will cause your delrin bolt to swell. Paintball gun oil however will not cause delrin to swell, the reason being is delrin absorbs *water*, since there is room in the polymer, chemically, for a water molecule. Paintball gun oil isnt chemically like water, and delrin obviously isn't porous, ergo, little to no absorption of oil. Taken from Doc Nickles website.

10. Q: Where can I get those cool pnuematic covers naughty dogs use?
A: E-mail doggygear@hotmail.com

11. Q: I want to make a kick *** electro, what should I use?
A: Well first you need to look for certain things in certain parts. Some parts have better air effieincy, some have better speed, but you always want to read your manuals, and see what's recommended. When choosing parts, always look at weight. Weight is a big issue; lighter moving parts usually mean it can cycle faster, and use a bit less air. When choosing a LPR, look for one that can cycle fast, maintain a good pressure, reliable, and easily adjustable. When choosing a ram, look for one with a light, smooth pull. A good ram is one that you can blow very lightly and ram shoots back or forward. Now you are going to want to get a delrin bolt. Delrin is a light material, and will hold up. You never want to use a bolt that isn't delrin or nylatron. Delrin has many advantages, the main being that its puts a lot less wear on your breech, lighter - therefore faster, and creates a secure fit without blowback (Most of the time). Internals. You generally need a heavier hammer, some have set screws on the side, so the lug doesn't wander off. For most E-Cockers, you need a flat polished lug. For the springs, you need to tinker with them yourself, Maddman and Nelson springs are probably the two best. You either want a valve that will cycle fast, or will produce A+ air efficiency... Inline reg, you want something that recharges fast, reliable, and maintains a good pressure, also with a tourney lock. Now for the hoppers. The gun will fire as fast as the gun will feed it, so the faster you can cyle the gun the faster the hopper your going to need, the Halo B is the fastest in mass production now, the Evolution 2 is far behind it (they claim some outrageous feedrate which I've never seen one hit before), the 12 volt Revolutions bring up the rear. Q-Loaders are the fastest on the market, but are so cumbersome and impractical that they aren't very good.

12. Q: My EBlade Cover Broke!
A: Planet Eclipse Planet sells them for 40 USD. Online Store> Manufacturer> Eclipse. Scroll down, they have the black one and the 2nd one under that is nickel plated (chrome) without a picture.

13. Q: Any new grips for the E-Blade, or a Trigger?
A: Yes. The Samuri trigger is a smaller version of the stock trigger, retails for $30. As for the grips, you can buy soft gel pannel grips.
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Old 10-03-2003, 03:33 PM #2
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14). Q: My gun is drilled for eblade eyes, can I use the holes for my new race?
A: The race eyes are on both sides of the gun, and they go n the very bottom of the breech (Or it just wouldn't work, since it is break-beam). So no, you have to retap the gun. Same is true for the opposite.

15). Q. How do I prevent my eye from dieing?
A. Plastic bag your gun when you're playing in the rain. But even better, paint the back of the eye and the eye wire band in liquid electrical tape. 5 dollars for a can for 50000 eyes at home depot.

16). Q: What kind of batteries should I use?
A: Well if you use a eblade, it is recomended that you use duracell ultras, but you're paying more for the battery wrapper than the performance. You can do to a Dollar Tree and buy some Panasonic Heavy Duty 2/$1. The price is better and you will get a larger reserve of power because you have more batterys, but you may need to change them more often then others.

17). Q: I don't have a hole for my gauge on my ASA, but I want to see my pressure.
A: Most regulators have OP ports on them. If yours does not, then u will want to use a process called "low riding" or "low gauging" your gun. To "low ride" your gun remove your lpr, remove the plug on the bottom of your front block, replace the open spaces with 90* elbows used for steel hose, turn elbow toward the bottom all the way in and back it up so the opening is facing forward, screw in the other elbow all the way and then back it up until the opening is facing straight out of the left hand side of your gun, put a gauge on the top elbow and your lpr on the bottom, make sure to use thread sealant, reconnect all hoses, and voila, now when u gas up your gun you can see the pressure. To "low gauge" the gun simply remove the bottom tap and put the steel elbow there with the gauge on it without removing your lpr. For pictures of a low riding gun click the link, http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/257...94038561_v.jpg

18). Q: Gun not recocking
A: This could be because your cocking rod is not in far enough. Screw it in as tight as it goes. If it still does not recocker, take the head of it, unscrew the set screw inside of it, and screw the head in, then the set screw. Also your cocking pressure may be too low. Turn you low pressure regulator up (the reg on the front of the gun) and try again. Try removing your bolt, and put a 1/8th alan wrench into the hole on the top of the gun. turn it clockwise. You are adjusting the lug. Keep doing 1/4 of turns until it catches. Before you do ANY of this, change the battery. Your 5-way solenoid valve could be stuck. Try stripping the solenoid and lubing the spool O-Rings with Dow Corning 33.

19). Q. Does anyone sell aftermarket triggers for a eblade? Like a trigger like the worrblade?
A. Your best bet is to call WGP and ask for one.. they'd end up charging you. I believe it is around 20 dollars.

20). Q. Will a WAS board for a timmy fit in a eblade?
A. It will fit... but it won't work without reprogramming and major board modifications... so no.

21). Q: How do I take out my valve? (Thanks to ParisInFlames)
A:
1. Take off beaver tail
2. Remove cocking rod
3a. Remove Bolt
3b. Remove BackBlock
4. Remove IVG
5. Remove Spring
6. Turn hammer lug counter clockwise till hammer will come out of gun
7. Insert valve tool/ allen wrench
8. Rotate counter clock wise till valve guide (hollow allen plug) comes out
9. Remove trigger
10. Remove tiny allen plug underneath trigger
11. Tilt gun up with ivg side toward ground
12. Catch valve, valve stem, and valve spring

22). -Rechargables at a glance-
With the price of high quality batteries as high as it is, many people are turning to rechargable batteries. But there are so many! Which ones are good? Well your going to want a 9.6 or 9.4 volt. Beware, although some batteries say 9v, they mean the 9 volt size, and could be a 7.4 volt or 8.6. Now try and get a battery with around 170mAh. I recomend Java series rechargables. They clock in at 170mAh and 9.6 volts. It's been said that they can go over 20,000 rounds... I kind of doubt that. Now another part of the puzzle is chargers. MAHA makes a 10x 9v charger... one of the best ones out there. If you skimp out on the charger, your batteries will not charge all the way and you can't maximize their potential. Also there can be hazardous situations with a cheap charger. They can also make your battery life sink.


-LINKS-
Annodizing-
http://www.maxanodizing.com/
http://www.ano-tech.com
http://www.sexyturtle.com/
http://www.pkselective.com/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/snaponit/
http://www.xpb.us/index1.htm

-Stores-
http://www.compulsivepaintball.com
http://www.countypaintball.com
http://www.madcocker.com
http://www.PaintballGear.com
http://www.PaintballWizard.com
http://www.FirstCallPaintball.com
http://www.SuburbanPaintball.com
http://www.FireBallMountain.com
http://www.EBay.com
http://www.SoulPaintball.com
http://www.xpaintball.com
http://www.4FreeFlow.com
http://www.moodypaintball.com

-Links-
http://www.Worr.com
http://www.PlanetEclipse.com
http://www.TurtleCocker.com
http://www.PBNation.com
http://www.racegun.dk

-Vids-
http://dhq.mine.nu/racegun.dk/downl...cegun_mpeg1.mpg
http://www.industrypaintball.com/media/colinsrace.mpg
http://www.blackgalaxy.tv/paintball/eblade.mpg
http://www.paintball-xtreme.de/mnt/racegun.mpg
http://www.benwahbe.com/movies/ripper.avi
http://www.planeteclipse.com/www200...frame_lores.wmv
http://4freeflow.com/media/RGP_512x409[1].avi
http://www.benwahbe.com/movies.htm
http://www.apocalypsepaintball.com/eblade.avi
http://stream.teamcyanide.net/
http://www.industrypaintball.com/media/colinsacevid.mpg
http://dhq.mine.nu/racegun.dk/downlo...egun_mpeg1.mpg
http://www.saveyourballs.com/techtips/video_15.asp
http://www.planeteclipse.com/mpg/MOV00382.MPG
http://www.planeteclipse.com/mpg/MOV00396.MPG
http://www.planeteclipse.com/mpg/MOV00386.MPG

-Help-

For F5/TF5 help, visit www.kcpaintballpage.com - he seems to be the only one still working on them. He also has a timing guide up at http://www.kcpaintballpage.com/files/sandridgehelp.htm .

For Eblade: http://www.planeteclipse.com/www200...lade_manual.doc

For Racegun:
http://dhq.mine.nu/racegun.dk/downl...l_greb_1_11.pdf

For Freekick:
http://dhq.mine.nu/racegun.dk/downl....ekickguide.pdf



Special credit to niteHawk and parisinflames7

Thanks to everyone.

All use of this document and all posts within it's thread are to be cited and credited to it's original origin and writers. Example: Taken from -Link-, written by PBNation ECocker forum.
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Last edited by MVPaintballer : 06-06-2004 at 02:30 AM.
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Old 10-05-2003, 10:16 PM #3
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you need to correct the part about delrin bolts.
heat causes them to expand and cold causes them to shrink.
delrin does not absorb enough oil to "swell"
as a matter of fact, use my post or conqueror"s post in the "delrin swelling bolts?" thread for info.

just a suggestion since you have a good idea goin' here.
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Old 10-05-2003, 10:23 PM #4
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Great Idea!

I'd clarify the trigger mechinisms...
The Race is either a dome switch (old-style), which is the same switch as was used on the old shockers, or a leaf switch, which is the same switch used on Angels, etc. It uses a spring return.

The Eblade uses an optical break-beam switch that has no moving parts. It uses a magnetic return.

The Race, ANS, and ProPaintball frames are all the same technology (RaceGun), in a differnt package. The only differences are that the Pro uses a 9v battery (although can be upgraded to the rechargable), and the ANS does not have the "pin" behind the trigger to activate the switch, but has a thicker trigger ithere.



Also - I'll give you a writeup I did a while ago - there may be somethings you can grab from it for your FAQ:


Race Vs Eblade vs. F5 vs. Uprising

All of the E-Cockers out there are no more maintenance then any other.... once it is set up correctly - as long as you don't mess with anything, it'll treat you well.

That all said, get whichever one you like - feel the trigger of each, pay to have someone set it up who know what they are doing, do not learn how to change the settings on the gun, and you'll be happy until the day you buy something new :-)

Since you most probably will NOT leave it alone and will want to mess with it, you have a few options...

Race and Eclipse
The Race and E-Blade work (for the most part) the same way except for how it physically trips the sear using a solenoid, and how to adjust the timing of the grip. They both use a solenoid off the front block to re-cock the gun. Putting aside everyone’s opinions on which sear trip method is better, the only real thing you want to look at is do you want to have a program on your computer to adjust all your timing options (Race), or do you want to navigate a small LCD screen to change values (Eclipse) - and which trigger feel do you like better (Magnetic for the eclipse, and angel switch for the race).

Centerflag
The Centerflag uses a solenoid to drop the sear, then the same solenoid is redirected to pull on the timing rod, which re-cocks the gun - it uses a mechanical 4-way, but it is pulled by the solenoid in the grip, not using a solenoid on the front block This way the entire firing cycle is controlled via the circuit board. It'll run just as fast as the other electros out there, if set up to, and if you can feed it. Some people don't like the idea of using a mechanical switch to re-cock the gun, some do...
Although the timing rod could come loose, and therefore mistimed the gun under normal use, it doesn't happen often enough to worry about in the real world. There is no "adjustments" to be made by the end user... in other words, they set it up for you, and that's that...


The F5/TF5.
This is the oldest of the group. Again, just as fast as the others.... differs in that it trips the sear using a pneumatic ram in the grip, and NOT a solenoid. It does use a solenoid in the front to re-cock. Looks aside (as that is subjective) it is just as easy to run as the others... any adjustments that you might want to make are done by moving some sensors on the ram, pretty much that's all the adjustability it has once delivered to your door. The Pre-TripleA F5's chronically suffered from poor wiring/soldering, but my assumption is that Triple A has fixed those issues.


All 4 of them if put on the same base gun, will shoot just as fast as the other - speed is a mechanical function of the moving mass to recock the gun, and how long it takes a ball to get into the chamber. All of the above (except the Centerflag currently) can utilize an eye to read when there is a ball in the chamber - thus maximizing your ROF to as fast as your loader can shove paint into the breech. The Race uses a two sided break-beam eye, meaning it can see all paint equally well. The F5 and Eclipse use single sided reflective eyes.. the _may_ have problems with dark shelled paint not reflecting the beam back, although Eclipse does allow you to fine tune what the acceptable reflective ness is, thus allowing it to use most paints - but that may require an adjustment on your part every time you change paints (although in practice it probably won't be changed that often)


(of course, there was, at one point a PMS electro cocker that manually dropped the sear, and then it hit a switch that automatically re-cocked the gun.. but they have been out of production for a while.. and is off topic...:-))
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Old 10-06-2003, 08:56 PM #5
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Addition to the differnce between the Worrblade and he Eblade - the Worr has a two finger trigger with one bump in it, the eblade is a blade trigger. The Trigger guard is also a tad bigger on the Worrblade
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Old 10-06-2003, 09:28 PM #6
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perhaps links to the manuals on the e-blade and racegun?
maybe that would stave off a few repeated questions.

http://www.planeteclipse.com/www2001...ade_manual.doc

http://dhq.mine.nu/racegun.dk/downlo..._greb_1_11.pdf

I never did find a sandridge online manual, and centerflag doesn't have one available for the uprising frame.
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Old 10-08-2003, 09:04 AM #7
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plus the worrblade has the dovetail mount
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Old 10-08-2003, 09:36 AM #8
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How about adding the Freekick Manual for the Racegun Gripframe ? It is something that gets asked frequently :

http://dhq.mine.nu/racegun.dk/downlo...ation/Freekick guide.pdf
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Old 10-13-2003, 12:45 AM #9
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I just spent a good half hour cleaning this thread. From this point please limit posts to "FAQ information only" if possible. I will stick it.

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Old 10-13-2003, 12:47 AM #10
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For F5/TF5 help, visit www.kcpaintballpage.com - he seems to be the only one still working on them. He also has a timing guide up at http://www.kcpaintballpage.com/files/sandridgehelp.htm .

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Old 02-04-2004, 05:19 PM #11
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Guess I'll jump in here and hopefully cut down on some of the 50 or so PM's I waid through a day....lol.

--- Can you give me some custom settings for my e-blade or race---

NO. Every marker is different. Every set up is different. We could have two identical markers w/ the exact same pnuematics and internals...but even the rams could possibly have a different speed than each other. If you would like to see how to adjust your marker, please see the "post your e-blade settings" thread... in particular.... pg. 8 of that thread. It will work for the race as well.

--- I don't wanna screw up my e-blade, are there any factory authorized techs that offer tuning my e-blade to it's max performance---

Yes, Me and Hammer1 offer this service...please make use of the PM to get ahold of either of us.
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Old 02-20-2004, 11:36 AM #12
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Some Martin and Turtle information

Full comparison of the twocan be found here
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...hreadid=420414
or
http://www.noodlehoops.com/paintball...evsmartin.html

Info on the weight differences of the recipricating mass of the Turtle and Martin MiniBlock.

As requested, I have done a weight comparison chart. Note that the Turtle is a mini-sized pump arm, and the Martin is a full size pump arm. I have also added the Slik weights for good measure (Slik/CompulsivePaintball Backblock, edge bolt, Pull pin, cocking rod, and a generic Full size Ti Pump arm):

All Weights in Grams from an electronic scale

------Back Block---Bolt-----Pin---PumpArm---Cocking Rod-----
----------------------------------------------Slik Only-----
Turtle--10.30------22.29----9.53----13.67-------------------
Martin--10.37------28.19---12.18-----5.83-------------------
Slik-----5.31------35.90----1.49----27.22------15.29--------

Totals reciprocating mass:
Turtle - 55.79gms
Martin - 56.57gms
Slik - 85.21gms

My belief is if the Martin was a mini-sized pump arm, there would be no difference in the mass of the Turtle and Martin.
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Old 03-12-2004, 03:47 PM #13
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And for the most often asked question....

No matter how fast I pull the trigger when dry firing, the marker never seems to fire more than once every few pulls.

Hold the top button for a 1/2 second to turn off your eye.
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Old 04-04-2004, 02:53 PM #14
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These bateries work very well on eblades:

Recharable and super long lasting.

http://www.thomas-distributing.com/9...s-chargers.htm
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Old 05-20-2004, 08:46 AM #15
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i have a question about how long my gun can go without lubing the sear solenoid or the sear. i dont have the oil to do it
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Old 05-20-2004, 01:08 PM #16
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Technically you should lube it after everytime u play, but every other time is good. Butttttt, I have a frame here that I haven't ever lubed (just b/c I kept forgetting about this one, and now I've reached the point where I'm testing it). I've put well over 500K cycles through it, and it's still good. Although I have noticed an ever-so-slight drop in battery efficiency. Down to 19K from the 20K I Was getting.
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Old 07-23-2004, 02:34 PM #17
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can u tell me about the system x xonik e-frame
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Old 08-05-2004, 12:08 AM #18
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Cheap knock off of an eblade. Capped at 16bps afaik and very poor quality. Made by System X

On another note, I'm planning on updating the FAQ, someone send me an E2 I can trouble shoot with :-)
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Old 08-04-2005, 01:12 PM #19
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has anyone been able to get a hold of an updated manual? or a break down of black magic reg? been searching around but coming up dry...

edit: stumbled across a walkthrough at moodys and thought i'd share it http://www.moodypaintball.com/pages/tech/ergo.htm
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Old 08-10-2005, 10:00 AM #20
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The e2 has different grips, the trigger is unique b.c it has a curve at the top than goes straight, and the cocking solenoid housing is closed where as e1 is open on the bottom.

If you have the extra cash i would just spring for an e2 b.c of the board is carries. Sure you can just get an E1 and buy a zero b board but i think that will end up costing you more in the end.

I'd say there is a big difference in the karni and prostock e2. Weight is probably the first, second would be the internal cocking system and lastly how you dont really have to upgrade anything at all b.c stock its great.

The only new gun out is the Black Magic. Which is an already turtled worrblade'd cocker but most would say the board is no where near the e2. Its led and not as adjustable as the e2 i think.
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Old 08-30-2005, 04:15 PM #21
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OK - something I just wrote up for someone else.. I thought it might go well in the FAQ.

E Gripframes:
EBlade Vs Race (or more specifically the E2 vs. the '05 Race)

Bottom line - they both do the same thing faster than you can pull the trigger without "enhanced" mode. Find out which feels better to you if you can.

--Trigger.
Race uses a microswitch trigger. It's a physical "click" trigger, similar to an Impulse/Promaster/Bushmaster/Freestyle/etc... it is NOT the same click trigger that comes in all those cheap spyder and spyder-like electros. It is possible to set it to be very very light and sensitive, and also to add a spring to the trigger and make it snappier.

EBlade uses an optical switch w/magnets - the trigger does not actually touch a switch to fire the gun, but instead breaks an infrared beam to fire. Since there is no resistance to light, they use a magnet system to return the trigger. There are no springs. The Ego uses a similar system. It is possible to shorten the trigger, but not quite as short as a microswitch, due to how the magnets work in the system. The trigger "snaps" back to the rest state, so there is less resistance the closer you are to the optical switch (if that makes sense), then when you let go of the trigger, it "snaps" back.

--Physically.
The EBlade is bigger then the Race. Race is normal .45 size, the EBlade is thicker. Actually the EBlade is probably bigger than any other grip out there.

--Settings/software.
The EBlade settings are controlled via the LCD panel in the back. All settings can be controlled via the buttons on the back. Software can be re-flashed only from Planet Eclipse. Upgrading the E1 to E2 specs required a new board.

Race settings can be changed via your computer. Certain settings can also be changed via the button pad. Coming very soon is trigger programmable settings, similar to other boards out there. There is no LCD screen. New firmware is updatable by the owner via the same computer link that they would use to change the settings.

Both grips have the full compliments of modes - Semi, Classic, PSP, NPPL, etc..

--Battery
Race is a rechargeable battery, good for 20,000 shots (at least) per charge.
EBlade uses normal 9v batteries, that last ~9,000 shots (at least that's what I've typically gotten on E2s)

--Sear Mech.
The EBlade uses a large sear noid in the grip to push up to drop the sear - similar to how a blowback electro (spyder/etc) grip works. (This is what eats up batteries, as it takes a lot of energy to move the sear this way.

Race uses a small sear noid that hits a roller cage that drops the sear, it uses much less power than other methods, but requires a bit of fine tuning initially to set it up. Once it's set (externally adjustable) you are probably good for life. I always said that the Race was a more elegant solution, but both methods work.

--Eyes
Race uses "break beam" style eyes. An emitter on one side of the breech shoots a beam to the other side at the receiver. When the beam is broken, the gun will know there is a ball in the breech.

EBlade uses a "reflective" eye system. The emitter and receiver are on the same side, the emitter shoots a beam out.. when a ball enters the breech, the beam reflects off the ball back to the receiver, telling the grip there is a ball in the breech. Traditionally single-sided/reflective eyes sometimes have a hard time with dark shelled paint since there is no reflection - the worst was the RPS matte finish balls in black or purple. That being said, most paints are fine.
Planet has said they were going to release break-beam eyes for the EBlade, but have not, and probably will not.

The eye-holes for one style eye will NOT WORK with the other... meaning, if you have a hold drilled for an EBlade eye, you cannot just drill one more on the other side for break beam eyes.. Reflective/EBlade eyes sit higher in the breech than Race/Break Beam eyes.

--Front recocking solenoids
OK - the new RaceValve has a faster response time then the solenoid that Eclipse uses. That translates to (in theory) a slightly faster gun.


--Support
Here's the thing - by all accounts Eclipse are leaving the Cocker market and focusing on the Ego. That means no more EBlade. A good indication of this is the fact that Break Beam eyes have never come out for the EBlade (although you can use Ego eyes). Eclipse does have a good rep for support.. both at tourneys and via phone, and authorized service centers.

RaceUS is in Cali, and can be reached via phone. There is also a pretty active Race community at racegunsforum.com
They don't seem to be leaving anytime soon.

--EBlade Differences
Stock E1 has a different board (no "enhanced" modes), a LED display (harder to see in daylight), slightly different trigger geometry, and a front noid cover that is open at the bottom. Board can be upgraded to a Zero-B board from Eclipse, which gives it the same modes as the E2, and the new blue LCD display.

Stock E2, LCD display, "enhanced" modes, different trigger geometry, completely enclosed front noid, better battery life, slightly changed sear noid (to help reduce battery usage).

Worrblade1 - rebadged E1

Worrblade 2/Selectfire - NOT an eclipse product, made "in-house" for Worr. Looks to be a completely compatible frame though, and will take the ZeroB or Worr's own upgrade board (to make the Worr2 a WorrS/F).

System X Xonix - NOT an eclipse product, knock off of the E1 using WAS boards (IIRC).

--Race Differences
(Gen designations are my own, and probably not what Race will call them)
Gen 1 - You will probably never see one of these. No eye support, done switch (like the old shoebox shocker), pin behind the trigger. Not upgradeable to the newest firmware without board change, large bracketed Solenoid up front. Trigger guard is removable/changeable.

Gen 2 - Eye support, dome switch, pin behind the trigger. Not upgradeable to the newest firmware without board change, large bracketed Solenoid up front. Trigger guard is removable/changeable.

ProPaintball 9v - Uses 9V battery instead of the rechargeable. Some were Dome switches, most were leaf microswitches (like all current Raceframes). Must convert to rechargeable battery to use the newest firmware. Either large bracketed Solenoid up front, or "eblock" front block combination. Trigger guard is removable/changeable.

Gen 3 - Eye support, microswitch, pin behind trigger, large bracketed Solenoid up front. Upgradeable to the newest firmware. Trigger guard is removable/changeable.

ANS Race frame - Eye support, microswitch, pinless trigger that is unique to the ANS (other Race triggers will not fit), smaller and better bracketed Solenoid up front. Upgradeable to the newest firmware. Trigger guard is NOT removable/changeable.

Gen 4 - Eye support, microswitch, pin behind trigger, smaller and better bracketed Solenoid up front. Upgradeable to the newest firmware. Trigger guard is removable/changeable.

Gen 5/05 frame - Eye support, microswitch, pinless trigger, "race valve" noid up front. Upgradeable to the newest firmware. Trigger guard is removable/changeable.
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