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Old 06-12-2011, 06:53 PM #127
y0da900
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Thanks new Ion?, but I have a couple of Vibes from when Titus on MCB did a group buy of them, and one of my friends in town snagged an XE cheap on here last summer - all of which take the same back end. I have a conversion started for them, just need a couple more pieces and I'll have an XE compatible version ready.
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Old 06-12-2011, 07:01 PM #128
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well, lemme know if you want me to test... long shot i know, but hey... I'd love to.
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Old 06-17-2011, 05:01 PM #129
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just ran a hopper through mine, i'll have the video up late tonight.
360 QEV
T-board
NXL full auto (too lazy to walk the trigger for testing)
no eyes
capped at 11 bps
280 fps at 120 psi with a not so hot paint to barrel fit
no shoot down
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Old 06-17-2011, 11:29 PM #130
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here's the video
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"they lost when i got out of bed this morning. The games were just a formality"
"between a snake, a mongoose, and a panther? b**** please, i'm so fast i'm between the mood swings of a girl PMSing and light. you can never catch that"

Last edited by wiswarsniper : 06-17-2011 at 11:49 PM.
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Old 06-18-2011, 01:16 AM #131
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Very nice video. Thanks. Lots easier to show from youtube than the funny linking with photobucket too.
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Old 06-18-2011, 04:19 PM #132
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hmm mine doesnt have that pinging noise.
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Old 06-18-2011, 07:12 PM #133
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might just be where the camera is, its sitting on sheet aluminum
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"they lost when i got out of bed this morning. The games were just a formality"
"between a snake, a mongoose, and a panther? b**** please, i'm so fast i'm between the mood swings of a girl PMSing and light. you can never catch that"
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Old 06-19-2011, 05:48 PM #134
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Finished a pair of XE/Vibe compatible kits this morning. The spacer between the power tube and the rear plug is unmilled, and acts like a spacer in an Epiphany - isolating excess volume to allow you to gain efficiency and raise the peak ROF by increasing the pressure. Spacers that are milled allow full access to the dump chamber to drop pressure and create a quieter/smoother shot. I haven't done much testing with it yet, but I suspect that the unmilled spacer version will run between 180 and 200 psi and that the milled version around 100-120 - just from using energy comparisons to the other kits.







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Old 06-19-2011, 07:37 PM #135
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So if I were to get one, what modifications would I need to do?
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Old 06-20-2011, 07:40 PM #136
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Either drill a hole in the frame or cut a small channel into the bottom of the exoskeleton to run the tubing to the rear air fitting. That's it.
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Old 06-24-2011, 05:54 PM #137
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Has anyone ran a complete efficiency test on it yet?
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Old 06-24-2011, 06:13 PM #138
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Not one that it wasnt leaking.
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Old 06-24-2011, 10:12 PM #139
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Just basic energy conservation tests so far. One of these days when I have enough extra cash to throw around, I will buy 2 cases and do a test to see how many shots I can get from a single fill. I've got one sitting in front of me in a GCPB (Lucky 5.1) body that I made for someone that, if someone was happy shooting 250FPS, should theoretically get nearly 2,800 shots per tank.
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Old 06-25-2011, 12:01 AM #140
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Haven't kept up on here or mcb for a while...very nice work.
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Old 06-25-2011, 11:05 AM #141
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Originally Posted by y0da900 View Post
Just basic energy conservation tests so far. One of these days when I have enough extra cash to throw around, I will buy 2 cases and do a test to see how many shots I can get from a single fill. I've got one sitting in front of me in a GCPB (Lucky 5.1) body that I made for someone that, if someone was happy shooting 250FPS, should theoretically get nearly 2,800 shots per tank.
Bryce Larson's efficiency test published over on Punk Works isn't too bad on paint. Should only take about two hundred shots. Just make sure to record the average paint mass and how much the velocity changes as you shoot. As you noted, the potential efficiency drastically increases with a small reductions in velocity.
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Old 06-30-2011, 10:45 PM #142
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just thought of this - are you still using 20oz tanks as a benchmark or 68 45's?
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Old 07-01-2011, 11:04 AM #143
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Kinda off topic, but what set of lathe tools are you using? I turn mostly aluminum and plastics/delrin, but my aluminum never comes out that smooth. right now im just using some bits that i made on the bench grinder from HSS. They work for what I do with them, but the finish is not so good. I dont really know what Im doing in terms of correct bit sizing and tip angles and whatnot. Also, what speed do you have your lathe set on?
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Old 07-01-2011, 11:47 AM #144
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When I get amazing surface finish turning aluminum I use a titanium nitride coated 37 insert. And just follow the machinists hand book for feeds and speeds.
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Old 07-01-2011, 06:04 PM #145
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For the generic statements of shots per tank based on basic energy conservation (ignoring heat transfer), it is compared to the energy stored in a full 68-45.

Most of that is done with uncoated indexible carbide bits, TCMT-21.51. I have had better luck with those than with the coated variants, though I am not sure why. I may have accidentally gotten TiAlN coated bits before instead of TiN (the former being not recommended for aluminum as the aluminum in it has a tendency to cause galling).

Most of the turning was at 1,000 RPM. I have since cranked it up a bit and am getting better finishes for the most part.
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Old 07-01-2011, 11:14 PM #146
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The real secret to good finish on a lathe is being able to have it automatically change spindle speed to hold a constant surface speed.
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Old 07-01-2011, 11:23 PM #147
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we used to do this on our woodworking lathes - as the piece got smaller we'd speed it up a bit.
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And I think that if you think something is bull****, you have every right to say you think it is. Just because bull**** is the norm doesn't mean it stinks any less.
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