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Old 08-11-2009, 04:05 PM #1
p.lovell
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Tips for tank making

Hey everyone, I'm looking to make a tank on a low budget. Just looking for some ideas to make one. Should I use a car or golf cart? How can I make a simple turret? Any help is good help!
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Old 08-12-2009, 10:05 AM #2
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The biggest problem your are going to have is the fact that you said "LOW BUDGET" You can put some plywood on a golf cart with some netting is about the lowest budget you are going to get but if you want it done "right" with functionality you cannot think of low budget - think of safety, reliability, and purpose and with that comes $$. You have to think of purpose on the field - If you want to mow down people then design it with more gun ports and one big cannon; If you want to destroy tanks put two cannons with a few gun ports, etc.

You also have to think about the weight you are adding to the "vehicle" you decide. Put too much weight on a golf cart and you break the frame or the engine doesnt have enought to move it in rough terrain creating a safety hazard. Also how will you transport it; will fields require additional insurance; how hard is it to get the additional insurance if it is a car with a VIN, etc.

While I would love to see more tanks at games, this is something that should be taken into consideration and really gone through on paper. Our tank took about a year to build with engineers thinking of everything. So to just ask for help about "HOW DO I BUILD A LOW BUDGET TANK" needs a little more insight on what you want and what you have resources to. I dont mean to bust your bubble, but I try to be a realist about this stuff. Post back with some of the ideas floating around your head.
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Old 08-12-2009, 11:32 AM #3
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To properly answer this question you would need to give us a little more information about what you're planning on doing with this tank. is it a tank you plan on leaving at your home field or towing it to different fields?
How low of a budget are we talking about also?
I personally would stay away from vehicle based tanks. maintenence can end up costing you more than you originally put into the tank. let a car sit over winter and it might cost you $1000 to get it running again in the spring.
You can get a decent golf cart under $1000, a couple minor tune ups which i would be happy to give you advice on and power won't be a problem as long as you don't buy a total piece of crap. Our team captain bought his golf cart for $700 for our first tank, put a couple hundred more in upgrades and had a great base vehicle to build off. the other benefits to using a golf cart is the fact that when you stop it's totally quiet and you can hear everything. it's light and easy to tow around, parts are cheap and easy to find, they're great on gas, very maneuverable and small. some think small tanks are bad, but when you can get into places others can't it can be huge.
another good option is an argo or similar 6x6 which can be found fairly cheap. i just bought a nice one for $1000 which i am starting to build into a tank.
tell us more about what you're looking for and i'm sure we can help you out
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Old 08-12-2009, 04:39 PM #4
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I plan to spend a couple thousand, at the most. I'm looking to get a golf cart around $1000, maybe upgrade it a bit. Take off the back and put on a covered turret, with like a single tippman or something. Maybe put on some sheet metal or plywood as covering. I'd like to add a swivel turret where as the gunner leans, the turret moves, nothing special or electric. Thanks for your help guys.
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Old 08-12-2009, 10:20 PM #5
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Now there's something to work with. The only problem with using metal for cover is the paintballs hitting the sides will make you deaf inside unless you put some sound deading agent on the inside!! LOL Not sure how the leaning turret would work. I have always seen using caster wheels and physical man power to turn it (low budget and low tech).
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Old 08-12-2009, 10:44 PM #6
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That's true, really all I need to do is make the gun move.
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Old 08-13-2009, 11:24 PM #7
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I plan to spend a couple thousand, ...
Ha, I was about to help until I saw this. A couple of thousand low budget? No way.Talk to me sometime if you want to hear about low budget tanking. My first tank was a fold up scooter with a pvc frame and paintball proofed up cardboard. My next tank will be built on a $80 riding mower and will cost no more than about $50 more to get up and going. In the end cheaper than my scooter tank.
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Old 08-14-2009, 06:34 AM #8
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sounds pretty ghetto. no offence .cardboard??? hows that hold up? theres cheap and then there why bother. yeah i netted up a big wheel it was sooooo cool lol
when the paint u shot cost more then the tank something is wrong
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Old 08-14-2009, 06:58 AM #9
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I think it may also benefit to talk to your local field first too. I host Scenario Games all over the U.S., im a Field/ Operations Manager at a local field in Il, and im also the owner of 5 paintball tanks.
We RARELY allow any outside tanks at the field I run. This is mainly due to insurance reasons. We wont allow the "Ghetto" machines onto our field as it only hurts the game, and makes the promoter look cheesy, even though it wasnt the promoters tank.
And keep in mind the terrain. A good paintball field should have some rough terrain. Even a good walking path will get grooved up over time from years of tank use, making it impossible to run a tank on. Im cutting new walking paths in right now for an upcoming event because we have several vehicle tanks that wouldnt make it on the old paths.
Most of the tanks we have ever seen at the Scenario Events we hold at other fields are "In House" tanks. This means that the field owner or Staff have made these tanks, and that they are covered under the fields insurance policies.
If your going to do it, do it right. I have tanks that cost anywhere from $100.00, all the way up to $6000.00. And yes, they are all road vehicles that can be driven daily.
And every tank must pass inspection before heading onto the field. We put a special event sticker on eac htank priot to the game, and each tank has the same type of kill box, all mounted in the same location on the tank.
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Old 08-14-2009, 12:28 PM #10
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sounds pretty ghetto. no offence .cardboard??? hows that hold up? ...
Yeah, it was ghetto. Duh, that was the whole point. It was cheap. Besides cheap it also had to be light as possible and break down into small parts for transport and storage. (that's the reason I based it on a small fold up scooter)

And it held up just fine. I said I "paintball proofed it up". I used it for 3 years. I'm the only tanker locally so cheap or not I ruled the fields I played at. No one ever laughed, they were too busy running away or getting shot out. Still have it in the garage. It's getting a little rough now but it could be used a few more games.

Here's a pic



I'm sure you've seen worse.

Everything is square because it breaks down to flat parts to lay down in the back of my car. I had no pickup or trailer, just an old beat up station wagon. All the parts could fit in the back, including the scooter, all my paintball gear and all my camping gear.

I have a nice pickup and a little more money to work with now. So I'm moving up to a riding lawn mower tank that should be able to fit in the back but I might spluge for a trailer too.

Last edited by True North : 08-14-2009 at 02:13 PM.
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Old 08-14-2009, 06:22 PM #11
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To each his own.
I created two paintball tanks (see Wayoldschool's entry in the pic file) based on electric industrial burden carriers. There are numerous advantages to these vehicles. My preference is the Taylor Dunn 4 wheelers.
Although they are equipped with small wheels originally, you can get some pretty good sized tires on these things (using golf cart wheels, but I also used 12" car wheels) and the 5 bolt pattern is a standard Ford set up, used on lots of trailers and carts, and easy to find.
The biggest advantage is that these vehicles aren't too popular, so I was able to get two of them and not have to pay more than $300 each. But they are rated to carry thousands of pounds, so they're quite robust, with leaf springs and shocks, and a hydraulic brake system. Top speed is perfect for paintball, somewhere around 15 miles an hour.
The torque is excellent, so although they have a low clearance, they'll climb any hill you can drive them onto.
I ended up transplanting the TD drive systems into fiberglass bodies, but my next project will probably be an APC based on the original vehicle itself. That should be able to haul up to 6 guys.
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Old 08-14-2009, 08:09 PM #12
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To each his own.
I created two paintball tanks (see Wayoldschool's entry in the pic file) based on electric industrial burden carriers. .
Have any pics of these things?
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Old 08-14-2009, 10:07 PM #13
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Ha, I was just thinking we kinda hi-jacked this thread a bit. We're talking about our own stuff and not giving the OP good advice. Let me throw a few things out.

First and formost, big budget or small, it's not the money that matters. It's the huge amount of work. Even small tanks like mine take a major effort. So I hope you're prepared for what you're up against. You may end up spending more time building it than you will playing in it. And I hope you have a well equiped garage or shop. Lots of power tools and more important, a good supply of nuts, bolts, screws, etc.. Nothing worse than having to stop everything and run to the hardware store for a couple of the right size bolts and than turn around and do it again a couple of hours later. And then again the next day.(yes I did that a lot)

Also, when it comes to your design, keep matainence in mind. You don't want to have to tear something apart just to add air to a tire or change oil or something like that. Hinges are your friend. lol

Last edited by True North : 08-15-2009 at 12:30 PM.
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Old 08-15-2009, 07:37 AM #14
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To answer the question, The easiest to build, cheapest, lightest, fastest turning, most playable, etc etc turret is a frame and ALL netting. You need the visibility to survive and for player safety. You also need the air circulation and ventilation.

Make a dome or box out of PVC or whatever LIGHT.

Now here is the nifty part. Get an old office chair. Take off the wheels and bolt it to the floor or gunner platform. Attach a seatbelt. From the back of the chair, attach a post UP and attach it to the dome. You have an umbrella made out of netting on an office chair that turns with the gunners feet leaving both hands free to reload, aim and fire.

You will have to decide if you want the gunner semi standing or fully sitting on the office chair. If semi standing, you will probably want to extend the height some way such as a platform box or just get a swiveling bar stool, bass boat seat, whatever.

That is the concept. Now some givens.

You want the center of gravity of all the gear mounted in the turret to be AT the piviot point of the turret. Otherwise, the turret will want to turn the heavy side downhill when you are on a hill which is MOST of the time. That can wear out a gunner quickly especially if you have a HEAVY turret.

So when you are mounting your cannon and marker in the turret, think about using the air tank as a counterbalance in the BACK of the turret. You can even mount the air chamber, valve, etc remotely to counterbalance the weight of the cannon and marker. If you were smart, you would design it so you could shift components around to tweak the center of gravity and then make them more permanently mounted. Zip ties and then hose clamps.

Cheap and motorized are mutually exclusive words when talking about paintball tanks. Still, they are nickel and dime projects after you get the base vehicle. $50 can keep you busy all weekend. Cut back on you other vices and pay and build as you go.

Don't forget the $125+ you pay to buy tank insurance for EACH game. Extra transportation costs to get there.

If you want CHEAP I have an alternative that solves all those problems.

How does construction cost under $500 sound to you. Want to build TWO for the price of your base vehicle?

Build a Walking Tank. No tank insurance requirement. Mine goes INSIDE my Dodge Mini Van or in the back of my pickup and adds NO extra transportation costs. Don't have to buy a trailer. Pay for storage or mechanically maintain the base vehicle.

The only downside is if you have motor or transmission problems, they have to call 911 instead of AAA.

The reason we see so few walking tanks is people can't make them LIGHT enough to have fun playing in. I have solved that problem and until defeated armor vs armor happen to own the "worlds most dangerous paintball tank".
Undefeated in 5 years by opposing armor. It is the RPGs and the grunts that are the threat.

My walking tank is a Mech Warrior and is mounted on a backpack frame. I CARRY it on my back. Minus the paintball gear the shell weighs 20 pounds. Battle ready with all the gear 65 pounds. I'm 60 years old and can WALK around a paintball field all day in it. If I can do it, ANYBODY can.

It could be lighter still. It also carries a 1 RPS autoloading Nerf Cannon. Something you probably won't start off with. That adds about 6 pounds over a standard breech loader.

You have HUGE advantages over motorized tanks. Given all are using Nerf Rockets and PVC barrels the range and accuracy is the same. YOUR advantage is SIZE. Every motorized tank is at least TWICE the frontal area as my walking tank. A pickup/van sized tank it 4-5 times the frontal area. That gives me a two to one or BETTER advantage in a head to head engagement.

In paintball tanks, Bigger is NOT Better! Smaller is better. I pretty much took the smaller is better concept to an extreme. Smaller is LIGHTER too.

In addition, I rarely go head to head vs armor. I have mobility. Many fields do not require walking tanks to stay on tank roads. No safety issue if I step on someone. I did and he was happy to surrender. Stepped on a Kid in a ghille.

That allows me to use TREES, Bushes, Cars, Bunkers, Birms ANYTHING for cover when going against armor. Anything that reduces the target area for my opponent. I can step sideways and dodge incoming Nerfs from a long distance. Try that in a motorized tank!

I ambush, use cover, hit and run, against armor. Avoid going head to head. Same tactics as the Sherman vs Panzer in WW-II. A Sherman could only go head to head against a Panzer ONCE....

That also means I can RUN with the GRUNTS in close support of missions. That is a HUGE tactical advantage over motorized tanks.

The trick is building it light. I use a special, extremely light, very strong and somewhat expensive material. Polycarbonate Twin Wall sheeting. A 4x8 sheet weighs 7.25 pounds and cost about $80. Expensive but you don't USE very much of it. Cardboard made out of the material they make safety glasses and bullet proof glass out of. It takes point blank paintballs at 300 fps without a dent.

It is assembled with 90 degree polycarbonate profiles and glued together. Those profiles are about $3 a foot but again, you don't use much.

It has NO FRAME other than the backpack frame. It is a mono body structure. The "armor plate" IS the structural material of the body. A third of it is netting anyway.

Now when I said $500, I included the cost of a cannon in that.... Material costs is UNDER 350..

Something I would like to see play is a tank like mine with NO Cannon. Just a marker only. That would put it in the 30-35 pound category. Picture 3-4 of them scurrying around a field together raising havoc..... I can hear the other side whining now......

I have pics and How to files of this tank build. Fabrication techniques etc. I share all my stuff to help the Sport evolve. Anybody can just ask for the info. E mail me at ddupont@charter.net
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Old 08-15-2009, 07:55 AM #15
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Yes, the discussion of 'ghetto tanks' again. All I have to say is this. LOOK at the pictures of ALL the paintball tanks on the internet. Darn few LOOK anything like a REAL military piece of armor. They are ALL "ghetto tanks".

They ALL look 'cheezy' except for the few replica, scale tanks which are works of art... or the very few, very expensive armored vehicles converted to paintball.

There is a REASON for that. One is COST. Building a 'replica' tank is additional cost and huge amounts of design and fabrication time. Simply a labor of love. The other and MORE IMPORTANT reason is Function.

This is PAINTBALL! Before I built a tank, I hunted tanks for YEARS. The EASY ones to kill are the 'replica' tanks that are ALL armor plate with small windows to see and shoot out of. The have HUGE blinds spots that I took full advantage of. Slaughtered them. They don't WORK in paintball. That is why you see those golf cart "tanks" where the top HALF of the tank is all netting. They are built to survive the game environment. They are made FOR paintball.

Speaking of 'cheezy'. What about those 'cheezy' helicopters we play with? Those 'cheezy' purses with a card that says it is a satchel charge? The 'cheezy' home made bazookas. The bio weapons, EM Pulse grenades, Cyborgs in jump suits. Carrier strikes. Nukes. All the 'special weaponry' requires we use our imagination a bit. If it WAS realistic, we would hurt people. It doesn't take anything away from the game or our abilty to have fun.. Neither does 'ghetto' tanks. Let the sport evolve.
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Old 08-15-2009, 09:06 AM #16
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in airsoft my grampas truck was set up with wood barriars made of old boards on each side i covered it over and bacisally made a tank fully enclosed and the rear sliding window in the back of the truck was open for communication and a net was put over it to protect my grandma, who was the driver in this backyard war, comfortable in the air conditiond cab. drinkin coca cola. it cost around 100 bucks to get that much wood, we had it just stored up, and an old truck like that 95 ranger shortbed could be found for as low as $500 bucks and two gunners could be in the back. i had an aeg going and felt like a turret.
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Old 08-17-2009, 02:21 PM #17
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Here's a picture of one of our tanks. This is a fiberglass body mounted on a steel frame driven by a Taylor Dunn electric burden carrier system cannibalized from the industrial vehicle. The other tank is almost identical, but has a gray paint job. Check out more photos at the Blast Camp website (2009 Big Game) and on You Tube (Lionel's Paintball Tank). Check out the trampoline style armor, which is bungee cords with a thinner web stretched over it (pick up bed bungee net), then a fine mesh camo (surplus) stretched over that. Paintballs and nerf rockets bounce off it.

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Old 08-17-2009, 03:14 PM #18
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After reading some of the other posts, I got to add a few comments. I think it's fine that all kinds of people are coming up with all sorts of innovations when it comes to these tanks, and, in my opinion, it's just that kind of tinkering that got the Wright Brothers into the air and exactly what made this country great. I got my own preferences (see above) but that don't make me world's greatest anything. I got to hand it to the insurance industry innovators for coming up with another way to reach into our wallets, but keeping these worthwhile inventions off the fields just dampens a much more interesting, productive, and wonderful creative process. Thanks, BTW, to PBnation for the opportunity we have to discuss all these interesting ideas, and let's promote the fields that let freedom happen.
Couldn't agree with Boom Master more, he's got some great ideas. But what's an old gearhead to do? Turns out we belong to the same (over 60) generation, too.

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Old 08-17-2009, 05:57 PM #19
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This has all been great. I'm glad to see so many responses!
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Old 08-21-2009, 02:41 PM #20
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Hey everyone, I'm looking to make a tank on a low budget. Just looking for some ideas to make one. Should I use a car or golf cart? How can I make a simple turret? Any help is good help!
Thought I'd take the time to make some more concise and to the point tips/advice.

1. Go with a golf cart or similiar smaller sized vehicle. Many places are outlawing automotive based tanks. You'll want something you can use anywhere. Also, remember that you actually have to build this thing. A smaller vehicle means a smaller build. Although trust me, it's going to seem like forever.

2. Simplest turret I can think of is the office chair thing. Secure an office chair to the base and attach the turret only to the chair. The gunner kicks with his feet to turn the chair and the whole turret turns.

3. Keep it light!! I'm amazed at all the people that just start slapping on the plywood onto a small vehicle and then wonder why they can't go up steep hills, why their tank feels tippy or why they have engine or transmission trouble. Plywood is heavy! Instead look at 1/8 inch hardboard. This is the same stuff pegboard is made from and it's usually sold where plywood is. It's not only a lot lighter it's a lot cheaper. I pay just $7 for a 4 by 8 foot sheet. At first glance it may seem flimsy. Don't let that scare you off. It holds up just fine when attached to a frame. If you have areas without a frame to attach it directly to just screw a 1 by 2 directly to the outside edge of the hardboard. 1 by 2's are cheap and add almost no weight. This is what I used on my current build and it works great. Cheap, light, and easy to work with(cuts like soft butter)

4. Don't spray paint!! Use a brush. I just found this one out. I can't believe how much paint I went thru on my tiny lawn mower tank. That's because so much paint is wasted when using spray paint. Seems like at least half of it just became dust.

5. Try and make it look at least a little like a tank. There's already plenty of "boxes on wheels" out there. As long as you're doing the build you may as well take the time to try and make it look right. As you can see from my scooter tank it doesn't take much to get a vague tank like look. A couple of 45 degree cuts and some paint.

6. Make anyone that wants to ride in it help build it. The more help the better. Mine's a one man tank so I built it myself. It was hell. I so would have liked a a second pair of hands during the build. And that was just a tiny 4 by 6 foot tank. You're going want a ton more help with a bigger build. And even with that help be prepared for a long build. Someone in this thread said take the estimated cost and triple it. That actually matches the estimated build time more. They are ways to save money. But it's the build that's going to get to you more. Constant need for design changes and other delays are going to drive you crazy. Be prepared for it! And good luck. You're going to need it. lol

Last edited by True North : 08-21-2009 at 02:53 PM.
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Old 08-21-2009, 05:43 PM #21
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Tank Tips!

Our main tank is made from a 10-15 year old Murry 22 HP riding lawn mower. THis means it one of the bigger riding lawnmowers. It sort of looks like a Bradly with a fixed turret. We have modified the front frame with counter weights and added mud tires on the back with other traction type tires in the front. We have made it into a two man tank which means we added to the back of the frame. This tank can go up and down many grades usually with ease. The tank housing base is made from 3/8 plywood supported with metal and wood bracing. The turret is made from a wood frame supported with chloraplas (plastic cardboard). This material does take a beating and holds and usually around $10 for a 4x8 sheet. If anything goes thru it. Its not a paintball. We are talking about replacing all the plywood with luon which will make the tank lighter but still strong. The plywood is beginning to warp in places the reason for a replacing. SO if you plan to build a tank from a riding lawnmower we suggest a 18-22 HP unit. It has all the power and reliability you'll need.

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