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Old 03-17-2013, 02:05 PM #1
Paper_Cut
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This is the difference between high end and low end paint

There are some misunderstandings about the differences between high and low end paint, I figured I would help clear some things up also explain what the differences are for those who don't know.

First, a video of how paintballs are made:



This is roughly what the insides of a high end and low end paintball looks like:



Low end paint is made in much larger quantities than high end, there is more of a demand. To pull statistics out of my ***, lets say for every 10 cases of low end paint sold, they may sell 1 case of high end. So, to keep up with demand, they have to churn out a lot of low end paint.

As you dry out the shell of a paintball, it becomes smaller and smaller. One of the properties of water(what most of the fill is made of) is it cannot be easily compressed. So, they often underfill the paintball as it comes out of the encapsulation machine, then they try and shrink it until there is no air bubbles.

However, sometimes, the paintballs don't get small enough to get all the air bubbles out. So, there is no internal pressure of the liquid pushing on the inside of the paintball and trying to escape(this is why low end paint is more prone to dimples). As the paintball is fired, the weight difference the bubble causes as the ball is tumbling out the end of the barrel destabilizes the paintball, causing slight irregularities in the flight path, so it is true: low end paint isn't as accurate as high end paint.

With high end paint they overshrink it, so there is no air bubbles and there is slight compression on the fluid inside the paintball. So, it is like a water balloon, as you know, the more you fill a water balloon, the easier it is to break, but even with a full water balloon, it will still deform slightly, only breaking when you drop it. With the slight compression, any shock to the outside of the ball causes the fluid to break the shell and the paintball explodes. This is in contrast with low end, where the paint is crushed with the force of the hit, high end explodes from inside. This is also why high end paint leaves not only a brighter mark(from the bright fill) but also a much larger hit.

So, with high end, you get a slightly more accurate shot with a ball ready to explode with the slightest nudge.

EDITS:
Quote:
Originally Posted by MstrKey View Post
Higher end paintball usually have a thicker, more expensive fill as well. This adds weight to the paintball.......making it shoot straighter as well as break easier and reform to it's natural shape quicker when fired. It helps the paint mark targets better since it won't wipe or absorb as fast. It also prevents the fill from separating into it's various components as quickly, which adds shelf life.
Quote:
Originally Posted by winter paint
During winter, the shell does become more brittle. Throw a paintball in the freezer overnight. When you pull it out you'll notice you can barely hold it without breaking it. But don't worry, good manufacturers have you covered. Kee in particular states that from oct-feb they separate the rollers slightly at the beginning of the process to make the shell a bit thicker for normal cold(not Canada cold though) so it would appear in 40-50* weather that the paint hasn't been effected by the cold. If it gets really cold where you are, you can buy the following winter paints from the manufacturers: Kee makes "Polar Ice," DXS makes "frostbite," and GI sportz makes "winter."
Note: To my knowledge everything in this thread is correct, however, I don't know everything, so if I am wrong about anything or left anything out, please tell me. I care more about accurate information than me personally being right. So, if you notice any inaccuracies, tell me where I'm wrong, why I'm wrong, and I will amend it.

Last edited by Paper_Cut : 03-28-2013 at 08:17 AM.
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Old 03-17-2013, 03:50 PM #2
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Huh, I always thought it was just the brittleness of the shell, not a difference in internal pressure. Interesting stuff.
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Old 03-17-2013, 04:06 PM #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gyvanth View Post
Huh, I always thought it was just the brittleness of the shell, not a difference in internal pressure. Interesting stuff.
Next time you're shooting some high end paint, break a ball then pick up the shell. You'll notice it bends just fine.
If it wasn't it would never make it down your barrel. When a ball fires and goes through the barrel, it has to deform, without that ability the ball would explode.

Last edited by Paper_Cut : 03-17-2013 at 04:21 PM.
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Old 03-17-2013, 04:09 PM #4
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Very interesting read and very informative! Thanks!
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Old 03-17-2013, 04:51 PM #5
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cool, thanks for that info. now when my wife asks me "whats the difference between high end and low end paintballs?" i won't have to answer her "...price."
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:04 PM #6
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Good stuff
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:49 PM #7
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Higher end paintball usually have a thicker, more expensive fill as well. This adds weight to the paintball.......making it shoot straighter as well as break easier and reform to it's natural shape quicker when fired. It helps the paint mark targets better since it won't wipe or absorb as fast. It also prevents the fill from separating into it's various components as quickly, which adds shelf life.

Sometimes they will change the thickness of the shell and the type of seam to aid in easy breakage and a smoother surface as well.
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:30 PM #8
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I recently picked up a case of "good" paint at our field. I immediately noticed they fly more consistantly and I got more hits. I would probably not give a case to the kids to put through their space guns, but the pump will only get quality paint from now on. It was worth the extra $15.
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Old 03-18-2013, 12:23 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MstrKey View Post
Higher end paintball usually have a thicker, more expensive fill as well. This adds weight to the paintball.......making it shoot straighter as well as break easier and reform to it's natural shape quicker when fired. It helps the paint mark targets better since it won't wipe or absorb as fast. It also prevents the fill from separating into it's various components as quickly, which adds shelf life.

Sometimes they will change the thickness of the shell and the type of seam to aid in easy breakage and a smoother surface as well.
Amendment added. Thanks for the input.
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Old 03-18-2013, 01:55 PM #10
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paint

Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldandsneaky View Post
I recently picked up a case of "good" paint at our field. I immediately noticed they fly more consistantly and I got more hits. I would probably not give a case to the kids to put through their space guns, but the pump will only get quality paint from now on. It was worth the extra $15.
For pump play it's probably worth it. You can't depend on volume so you need to be more accurate in general. It does make a difference.

The only thing to be wary of.....is that SOMETIMES you can still get a bad batch of the good stuff. Always buy it where you can open the box and look first. If you see bubbles, dimples, discoloration, or wonky sizes move on to the next box.
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Old 03-18-2013, 02:24 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldandsneaky View Post
I recently picked up a case of "good" paint at our field. I immediately noticed they fly more consistantly and I got more hits. I would probably not give a case to the kids to put through their space guns, but the pump will only get quality paint from now on. It was worth the extra $15.
Used a stock class phantom for awhile, never shot anything but ultra evil. Though I could go 2-3 times on a bag of 500. I've seen guys with open class burn through a case with their open class pumps.
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Old 03-18-2013, 02:29 PM #12
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The more you know!

Never knew that stuff. Thank you good sir
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Old 03-18-2013, 06:44 PM #13
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Sticky This *****, Now. The best piece of beginner information I can think of to explain price points and paint physics.
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Old 03-19-2013, 08:52 PM #14
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The mods don't make stickies anymore. So, if you buy an older used gun and need a guide on how to fix/clean/troubleshoot it then good luck. All the Stickies lead to archive threads featuring pictoral guides with a whole bunch of red X's where pictures should be and dead links where guides used to be.

Here is how to disassemble an intimidator solenoid: http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...1#post36745181
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Last edited by Paper_Cut : 03-19-2013 at 08:56 PM.
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Old 03-20-2013, 01:21 AM #15
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Good paint, i.e. ultra evil, dye, GI 5 star etc, at 50-60 case is more expensive, however, when playing pump, you get minimal bounces, i.e. 1 shot/1 kill. Shooting cheaper stuff, gives bounces, i.e. 5 shots, 4 bounces, 1 break.

This translates to shooting semi, as you get less bounces, more breaks, and you shoot less paint. 1 case of cheap stuff is 40 bucks, 1/2 case of expensive is 30 bucks.

I only shoot high end paint in pump guns, and usually in semi, if available.
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Old 03-20-2013, 03:35 AM #16
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Great find. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 03-20-2013, 08:46 AM #17
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Great find. Thanks for sharing.
This isn't a find, this is compiled research I wrote up.
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Old 03-27-2013, 02:32 PM #18
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I think more people should read this.
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Old 03-28-2013, 06:11 AM #19
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I think this is great! I've been playing for years and never really knew what went into the good paint vs. the ol' Wallyworld stuff...

What's the opinion on 'winter blend' paint... I shot some up at PEV's and it was marginal. I had one that was so misshaped jam my hopper as well as the majority was egg shaped... Is this winter paint have high end and low end? Just curious... (Not like I would use it a lot)
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Old 03-28-2013, 08:07 AM #20
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Originally Posted by Mowfaces87 View Post
I think this is great! I've been playing for years and never really knew what went into the good paint vs. the ol' Wallyworld stuff...

What's the opinion on 'winter blend' paint... I shot some up at PEV's and it was marginal. I had one that was so misshaped jam my hopper as well as the majority was egg shaped... Is this winter paint have high end and low end? Just curious... (Not like I would use it a lot)
Actually, you buy winter blend without even realizing it. The paintball's shell gets very brittle in the winter. So, when it does they separate the rollers ever so slightly that form the sheet at the beginning of the encapsulation process to make the shell slightly thicker on every paintball. According to Kee(RPS: PMI premium, stinger, all-star, ultra evil) they begin making thicker paint in October and extend it through February. This keeps it in good condition for normal cold(40-50*). However, if it gets below freezing in really cold climates Kee makes "Polar Ice," DXS makes "frostbite," and GI sportz makes "winter."

Source: http://paintarmy.blogspot.com/2009/1...aintballs.html
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Old 03-29-2013, 08:02 PM #21
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I thought it was the shell and quality of fill, not ammount. huhhhh
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