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Old 07-18-2009, 02:12 AM #1
Ethrealwolf
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F2000/ion build

Before I start off, I'd like to thank warcowboy and funky diver- both of their mods inspired me to try my hand at it. In particular, warcowboy's SL9, which was, at the first time I saw it, pure tits.

I've always like the F2000, just think it looks really bloody good and I like the way the civilian real steel version shoots (oddly enough , I grew up around bulpup rifles, so I find them more comfortable to shoot than traditional ones. go figure)

Anyway... I had an Ion I got in a trade/sale sitting in my room for a little over 7 months, and I'd just recently gotten highly irritated at my local airsoft community, so the gear I had for that was toast. (thank god it was just a pair of guns and a few mags)

I got to thinking about it, and, well, here goes.



Here's what I was originally going with, but I've since changed it up- specifically, the orientation of the reg in this pic is backwards, and the battery has moved.



There's the second layout- you can see the relation to funky diver's F2000 build there (along with a big blob of blu-tack) I was still trying to figure out how to activate the board- originally I intended to just make a simple linkage arm. but what fun is that?


Newest pic- this is the current plan for it.

Sorry about the blurry pic, I'll try and explain what's going on here. You can see I re-arranged the reg and reg mount there, I actually need a CPshorty reg, I think, to get it to work out without an undue amount of sawing and dremel work. as much as I love my dremel, I'm trying to avoid cutting this body up too much. You can see the wire leads headed over to the trigger, I'm mounting a beefier microswitch behind the original airsoft trigger- and soldering the wires out to it and the board. I've been emailing a few manufacturers to see if i can buy a board without the microswitch installed, but so far, no luck. You can see I planned to move the battery into the mag- and have, actually- that part of the overall project is done. I'll be mounting it in place permanently- the battery changes through the bottom of the mag, not the top, and I'd rather the whole thing have less connectors to go wrong anyway.

As of right now, I'm planning to use a modified Rip clip to feed it- I've always found the whole tilted hopper thing ugly, and I want to keep the overall profile lower than mounting a hopper anyway, so it seemed to be the logical choice (and it means more dremel work. woot) As for barrels, I need something between 18" and 20" long for it to clear the body- I'm leaning towards a hammerhead 16" on a freak back.

I'll try and keep it updated here, as it's still a WIP, but, you know how it gets!

anyway, thanks for looking!
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Old 07-18-2009, 09:01 PM #2
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very nice work, glad to see more people doing custom work

comment on the barrel choice, I had a 16" hammer head tip for my freak and it's a really nice barrel but if your paint is not mid-grade or premium (i.e. white box or from walmart) it will not fly straight because of the rifling. but good paint shoots so accurately
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Old 07-19-2009, 01:10 AM #3
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very nice work, glad to see more people doing custom work

comment on the barrel choice, I had a 16" hammer head tip for my freak and it's a really nice barrel but if your paint is not mid-grade or premium (i.e. white box or from walmart) it will not fly straight because of the rifling. but good paint shoots so accurately
thanks, and thanks. In as far as it goes, the only place I wouldn't be shooting premium would most likely be Oklahoma Dday. Of course, given the paint we had there this year, I'm half tempted to get a .696 CP backand the 21" front and call it good.
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Old 07-19-2009, 11:30 AM #4
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How are you hooking the air into it? I can see where on the 2nd layout, but I'm confused on the current layout.
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Old 07-19-2009, 04:30 PM #5
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There is an air line coming out of the back of the butt of the gun, or at least that's something that would make sense. I can only guess that a remote coil will be used, because who really wants a 4' long marker?
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Old 07-19-2009, 04:59 PM #6
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How are you hooking the air into it? I can see where on the 2nd layout, but I'm confused on the current layout.
I need to get a new reg, and some fittings, but the air will still be coming in from a remote line. the remote nipple will be moved back- since it'll go direct remote to reg- but for the most part, it'll be the same basic place as on the second layout up there.
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Old 07-20-2009, 07:49 PM #7
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those pics arent working for me...
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Old 07-20-2009, 09:19 PM #8
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those pics arent working for me...
sorry, I'd moved the pics. they should be up now.
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Old 07-21-2009, 03:55 PM #9
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very nice
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Old 07-22-2009, 04:51 PM #10
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Very interesting.

I'd love to see a shooting video.
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Old 07-22-2009, 09:46 PM #11
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you will deffinately need a q loader on this one...
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Old 07-23-2009, 12:40 AM #12
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Nice to see a fellow mod'r.
Looks like you have it under control, and glad that my mods inspired you.
Excited to see the end result.
If I can be of help in any way I will be happy to give you my two since.
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Old 08-05-2009, 05:37 PM #13
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you will deffinately need a q loader on this one...
I'm actually thinking of using a rip clip on it. it'll involve a little plastic work (I play warhammer 40K on the side, so I'm comfortable working with plastic for cosmetics) but the end result will be a lower sitting hopper that's more towards what I want- that being a Mil-sim marker that isn't totally ruined by the hopper hanging off it. the low profile Cyclone hoppers are some of the few things I think tippmann did right- and I can work a rip clip into at least looking like it's supposed to be on the gun. (kind of)

The big problem right now is finding a board manufacturer I'm comfortable buying from that could supply a board without the microswitch attached. I'd already contacted tadao and apparently they don't make Ion boards, they just helped SP develop the dynasty board. I'd use virtue, but I've heard horror stories, and I'm not trying to have board issues if I can avoid it. the only two things i really need on the board is the ability for a membrane pad and semi/burst/full. NXL mode is nice, but ultimately not necessary.

the membrane, or at the very least, remote on/off is a pretty big deal though. I don't fancy having to drill a hole for a physical on/off button, though, I guess if it came down to it, I could pull it off, but I'd really rather not.

Right now, though, the whole deal is kind of on hold. It works out to be cheaper right now for me to get a TM-15 then work on this after i get home from basic. right now my girlfriend and I have three markers between us anyway, plus this one I'm working on and probably another bob long marker when I get home too.
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Old 08-10-2009, 12:16 PM #14
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Its going to be one sick gun when you get it finished. Got to make a video when its done.
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Old 08-10-2009, 04:10 PM #15
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you do know with a hot iron and desoldering wick, you can remove the ion's micro switch.
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Old 08-15-2009, 11:22 PM #16
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you do know with a hot iron and desoldering wick, you can remove the ion's micro switch.
Yeah, I know. I'm rather paranoid though- Don't want to inadvertently ruin the board. my hand ain't the steadiest, and even though I can solder well enough, I'm not too keen on taking apart a board. Though it looks like that's what I'm going to have to do,

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Its going to be one sick gun when you get it finished. Got to make a video when its done.
Will do.
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Old 08-16-2009, 08:25 AM #17
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very cool sofar, both you and warcowboy have inspired me greatly. i just finished my first scenario gun yesterday, basically an autococker with a wooden stock. i am now working on fitting an ion into a steyr aug.

are you going to feed yours from the bottom? i am going to try to run the paint vertically up through the mag on the gun, i just need to figure out how i am going to mount everything and make it visually appealing.

thanks for the inspiration.
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Old 08-16-2009, 11:26 AM #18
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Quote:
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Yeah, I know. I'm rather paranoid though- Don't want to inadvertently ruin the board. my hand ain't the steadiest, and even though I can solder well enough, I'm not too keen on taking apart a board. Though it looks like that's what I'm going to have to do,


Will do.
another opting would be to solder a corresponding switch in parrellel to the switch you already have. find the leads, and "a dab will do you."
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Old 08-17-2009, 02:08 AM #19
Ethrealwolf
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Originally Posted by subyrally View Post
very cool sofar, both you and warcowboy have inspired me greatly. i just finished my first scenario gun yesterday, basically an autococker with a wooden stock. i am now working on fitting an ion into a steyr aug.

are you going to feed yours from the bottom? i am going to try to run the paint vertically up through the mag on the gun, i just need to figure out how i am going to mount everything and make it visually appealing.

thanks for the inspiration.
I had thought of going mag fed- working with a SP8 mag as the base- but I'm going o keep it conventionally fed for the time being. mag feeding would be problematic, at best, and catastrophic at worst, and I'm *trying* (and failing) to build this on the K.I.S.S principle. Right now, I'm planning on using a rip clip with some cosmetic work done to feed it- though a Qloader is a strong second possibility.

Also, good luck with your mod- I've heard AUGs can be a royal pain to pull off, can't wait to see how yours comes out! I think I'm going to try and pull off an L85 next- Won't be able to use ion internals on that one, but I have me a plan.

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another opting would be to solder a corresponding switch in parrellel to the switch you already have. find the leads, and "a dab will do you."
d'oh. Didn't even think of that. Ion boards are actually really simple, So that may actually be the best bet- I'd have to find some way to immobilize the original microswitch- maybe some more epoxy- but otherwise, now I feel dumb for not thinking of that.
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Old 08-17-2009, 03:29 PM #20
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the original microswitch shouldnt need 'immobilizing'. the lever arm doesnt have enough mass to activate teh switch, and you shouldnt have anything rattling around anyways....

where it is it should be good.

looking good so far.
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Old 08-22-2009, 11:59 AM #21
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could do like i did, i sacrificed an old computer mouse, cut off one of the micro switches, used the cord from the mouse to run the switch to the trigger area and just soldered it to the back side of the stock switch. then you take a small set of pliers, pinch the metal lever and it pops off and reatach it to the mouse switch. if that makes sence.
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