I was sending an e mail about my walking tank design and fabrication and decided just to post a copy here. So I will be adding to it and editing it a LOT. If they want to make it a sticky, fine.
Pictures of the LTTC in action are posted at:
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My first backpack based walker was the ATST-1. Inspired by Star Wars ATST Imperial Walker. The white turret with chicken legs that Chewie captured in the Teddy Bear Battle.
This one was initially the ATST-2.0 but with the upgrade of the autoloading cannon, it turned out to be so dangerous to other armor that I decided to call it the LTTC-1.1 (Little Tank That Can) - 1.1 Just for grins....
They make fun of my tank a LOT at the beginning of the game but I get the last laugh by the end of the game. The ATST-1 and the LTTC has never been defeated armor vs armor meaning no tank has gone home with more kills on my tank that I have on theirs. Here are the best pics I have right now. Does not have the Mech Warrior Chicken Legs attached.
My favorite comment about these Pics so far: "Nice Sox." LOL!
The empty tank shell without any armorment and the chicken legs weighs an amazingly light 15 pounds. Looks heavier doesn't it. Add all the armorment, air and ammo it is battle ready at 65 pounds. About 40 pounds of paintball gear goes inside it. If you are just a RPG player with a marker, you are hauling about 35 pounds of gear anyway.
That is the SECRET to a successful walking tank. WEIGHT. If it is heavy, it stops being fun to play in REAL QUICK. Why you don't see many walking tanks. I hope to change that with this thread.
The first tank was a backpack with a frame built around it onto which I mounted my super light armor plate and netting. Battle ready it came in around 80 pounds. Bit of a workout.
The LTTC is a prototype for a monobody construction technique where the armor plate IS the structural material. It worked eliminating the weight of the framing and dropping a huge amount of weight. Some of which I replaced with that autoloading cannon.
That clear material is polycarbonate twin wall sheeting. They use it for pool enclosures, green houses, etc. It will withstand hail and point blank 300 fps paintballs. Very stiff, tough, and a 4x8 sheet weighs only 7.25 pounds. Also about $80 a sheet. Ouch! but not really. I used maybe 3 sheets counting the chicken legs. That is a real CHEAP tank body. You can see that it is hollow like cardboard in some of the pics below.
Here we go.............. Remember this was originally an e mail
He felt he had to do some redesign because all he had to transport was a car.
"It can be smaller and shorter." Certainly small enough to go onto a car top carrier but I would build a box to protect it from those 70 mph winds - In the front to break the wind anyway. It rides fully assembled in my pickup with some tie down straps. I originally planned to be able to fold it up for transport. My figuring wasn't right and had to settle with just two bulky pieces that fit inside each other somewhat. The bottom and MOST of the top of the turret is open so I slide that in face down on the front netting. (Cannon and marker removed during transport) Then slide the top of the body into it with the ALICE pack face down. Air tanks and chicken legs also removed for transport. Pretty much take up 5 foot of length 30" wide. So some assembly is required to go on or in a vehicle smaller than a compact pickup or trailer.
I am going to rebuild/upgrade the turret and drop about a foot off the overall height. Believe it or not, I have top clearance issues with overhanging branches and bunker doorways. It will also decrease the target area vs Nerf Rockets from the front, rear, and sides a bit. Then there is a chance it might go into the mini van upright. That space is currently where I store my paintpods full and empty. See pics attached. Link if you can't
I decided to make a similar single magazine going down the inside of each side of the new turret. Pull the full pods out at my hip and throw the empties back in the top of it. It will be a bit wider but I needed to do that anyway cause my upgraded chicken legs will need the clearance. That should shave a couple of pounds off it which will be replaced by the new legs. You can see the idea from the back view below.
The slanting sides will be double walled to make a pod magazine going down each side. Right over the CG of the tank so it won't change the balance as I use up that half case of paint or more.
The turret with the netting comes OFF the body that the legs are attached to. Otherwise, it will not fit into the mini van. In the back view above you can see the piece of wood glued and epoxied at the bottom of the turret. Used those C shaped PVC pipeclamps on both parts of the body with a piece of pipe to join them. That is where the turret pivots up from to enter and exit the ALICE harness (very tight fit- sardine). It is also designed to break away or snap off if I take a forward header. And it snaps on and off for transport as well.
I can be shorter front to back if you install a breech loader instead of my autoloader. In the picture below you can see where I added onto the front to accommodate the autoloader's extra internal length during the upgrade. About 8 inches.
You can see the mocked up chicken legs with the hockey goalie shin guards that attach them to your legs. The new ones will be the thickness of a 2x4.
Below is my best pic of the body.
You can see the ALICE frame. Behind and mounted on it, is the guts of the cannon Breech or Autoloader. Air Chamber, Main Valve, Trigger Valve battery box and the required pressure gauges, pop off valve etc. There is about 6 extra inches front to back clearance left over in that box. The ALICE is has two mounts on each side. Only the bottom one in this picture. All four are lynch pins so I can pop it out if I need too. If I just pop the top two, the ALICE pace will rotate down and give me quick access to all the cannon guts for any field repairs or battery changes. I have no idea how many shots I get out of those two 9 volts. 50+ is my most use in one game. I change them out for each game and use them in my REVY until they go flat. I plan to find out and mount a spare set in that water proof battery box with a throw switch either on the box or located where I can reach it during play.
See the side panel to protect my sides. That was not substantial enough to mount the chicken legs too. It is now 1/4 plywood. The pivot point of the chicken legs need to be at YOUR hip. The respective lengths of the two sections are a bit critical. I can measure them for you but it really depends on your leg length. I'm 6'0" and wear a 32" inseam. So we would have to compare how close you are to my size and adjust accordingly. Getting the leg geometry and movement to LOOK good is a bit tricky. Those legs in the mockup above are single thickness mock ups. You might be able to see all the holes I drilled in them to adjust each sections length and attachments.
You can see the air tank box sticking out the back. It is OVERSIZED too. You may need the extra length going to the back because the air tanks are a counterbalance weight for the turret and that autoloader in the front. It is absolutely CRITICAL that the center of gravity is AT or behind your hips when battle ready. If it is nose heavy, your shoulders take the entire weight and HURT terribly in less than 30 minutes. So keep in mind that it is easier to cut OFF that extra length than add it on.
More on Part 2