It actually is a little complex. It uses a microswitch behind the trigger to activate a Pancake solenoid. That solenoid hits a lever. That lever drops the sear plate, which only controls the sear. At the same time it hits another plate that controls the 3 way. It pushes the plate backward. There is a spring between the threeway plate and the sear that then resets the process.
EDIT: Sick+iPhone=crappy explanation
Basically, this is how it works. Behind the trigger is the a microswitch. When you pull the trigger, it activates a pancake noid. The noid is horizontal facing the front of the frame and right below the sear plate. The sear plate is oddly shapped, with a sear that your would normally picture as a cocker sear with an arm that goes straight down from the front of the sear down to directly in front of the noid.
When you pull the trigger, the noid kicks out and hits the the arm which drops the sear. When the sear arm is getting hit, it pushes into a lever that sits next to the threeway plate (basically just a rectangular thin plate with the actuator hole in the front and a ridge on the bottom in the back). The threeway plate gets pushed back as the level is struck by pushing on the plate's ridge, and shifts the threeway hole backwards switching your mechanical threeway.
There is a spring mounted between the threeway plate and the sear plate with tension from the back of the threeway plate pushing on the front of the sear plate. After the noid hits and sets off the chain reaction the moves the threeway plate back it causes that spring to compress between the two plates. Once the pressure from the noid striking the plates is gone (aka noid resetting to the original position), the tension from the spring can be released (aka spring goes from compressed to normal position). That pushes and resets the plates to their initial positions. Whole cycle happens as fast as the noid is set to go. Most boards for uprising frames are set to 13 a second, with the last couple runs being 20 bps frames. I got lucky and got one of the 20 bps frames.
Let me know if this makes sense. It's a little complicated unless you can take one apart and look at it yourself.
I decided to go pneumatic. So here's a pneu-pgp, with the true p-trigger set up.
I actually like this more than the eletcro frame. Gets rid of the battery, and is still really, really fast. I put three hoppers through it today, no chops and feed problems. Huge thanks to Rainman for the new bolt, hammer lug, and frame adaptor. Much, much better. Here's the frame/pics:
Inside of the frame---used the full arm to keep the trigger short and light:
Passenger side :
Driver's side :
I may see if I can find someone to drill a through hole to run the hose through the block like the pneu-superbolt that was up here earlier. I liked that idea, and it would streamline the hosing a lot. I'd also love someone to do custom rubber wrap-arounds for the frame.
Update: Decided to just deck it out after all, and electro triggers have recently grown a bit on me. As it stands now, packing a E2 and Sidewinder:
Hmm, tough question because parts have been subbed in, resold, etc. The body, plate adaptor, anno/powder coat, bolt, and pump rod when all is said and done, was around $200 or so. The e2 as you see it, board and all, was 125 off eBay. The sidewinder from aka was 60 or so. The drop was 20. The maddman kit was about 10, and the front block was 30. The ram was about 40, and the lpr was 10. The feedneck was 15 or so. The old uprising frame was swapped for a new 45/45, and I sold the pneuframe for the same as it cost me to build. That doesn't count a couple of trial and error parts, but covers the rest off the top of my head.
Earlier someone asked about MQ2'ing this, and I didn't think it would be do-able without some serious work. After thinking about it, I reconsidered, and it actually wasn't too bad of a thought.
Here it is, MQ2'ed: Full specs and how it happened.
First off, gigantic thank you to Ty McNeer. He was the one who took my simple little plan, refined it, and made it into reality. He also made cleaned up some of the previous work on the gun, and made this puppy work. The body originally came to me via Rainman229 (aka Claudio), and noxx also did some work on it.
Here are the specs:
Cut down PGP2 body with powdercoat, angel threads for the feedneck, and ball detent mount from Claudio, tuned up for this project by Ty
Internal lower tube spacer by Ty
MQ2 with MQ2 spacer cut down to fit by Ty, and cocking rod hole drilled and threaded through with set screw to allow pressure adjustment on noid
Body to frame adapter plate from Claudio
Bolt from Rainman
CCM Delrin Cut Back Block
WGP Delrin Bolt Pin
Pump arm from Noxx
E2 frame with Red Filter and Black Eclipse buttons, gloss red trigger, etek grips, and cocker UTB
Black Magic reg
WGP noid cover/Noid
Minicocker from block cut to fit by me
CCM elbows with black macro and gigantor drop, along with CP feedneck, and shocktech detent
Here are the pictures:
The rear shot shows the spacer, also known as the most important part of the gun:
Ty was very smart about how he did the internal tubing/spacer. He's basically local, and was nice enough to let me into his shop to watch and learn while he worked on the gun. I really appreciated it, and will be working with him in the future if he has time. Ty, thanks again, and love how this turned out. Anyhow, the spacer itself has multiple internal bores. The front is bored out to allow it to thread directly into the front block. The front grip screw threads through into the spacer, but that's it. The bore size stays smaller to allow the valve to slide in and hit a lip to get it lined up correctly. The rear spacer has been cut down to fit, but can be tightened through the rear screw, which was where you could screw in a cocking rod. This has been drilled through to allow to noid adjustment. The spacer is also drilled for the rear frame screw to screw up through the body, adapter plate, and spacer. The whole piece is a simple drop in to the cut down body. The whole seals up, shoots, and cycles really well and is a whole lot simplier to time than the mech version ever was. I haven't had it over a chrono yet, but it's allowing for velocity adjustment without issue as is. I won't be taking this apart often at all, and will likely re-durocoat it in the not too distant future, but love it as is. Anyway, this is how you would make your own. It also had the added bonus of being an overall light gun. It's not magic, just a lot of milling, drilling, filing, measuring, and cutting. Why do it? Because we can.
EDITED and UPDATED:
We decided to update the body. While the ePGP was working, there were a couple problems to fix. First off, the barrel bore was just too big. It killed velocity because the bore match was consistently terrible. The other issue was the detent hole. It was tapped slightly off where it should have been aligned. That caused it to chop on occassion, which wasn't exactly helpful. Since we were redoing the barrel anyway, we decided to just fix up a whole new body. This one has an attached frame adapter plate that lines up to a front block (no torqueing anymore), a .678 barrel, and a reverse-p evo style back block. It also got a new delrin bolt. We put in a chopped cocking rod to keep it from torqueing, I swapped in a CCM reg, and a whole new set of eclipse pnues, and grips.