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Old 07-10-2014, 08:55 AM #1
WildWayz
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Insight NG / Victus Guide

Hi guys

As promised, here is my guide on the Insight NG / Victus.

It will cover the following:
  1. What Is The Insight / Victus?
  2. Efficiency
  3. Known Issues
  4. Known Changes
  5. How To Maintain The Drivetrain
  6. How To Maintain The HPR
  7. Other Maintainance
  8. Adjusting the Trigger
  9. List of Orings and Screws Required
  10. Troubleshooting

I shall break it down into posts and try to link the above list to the correct section.

Please don't post in here until it's finished

James
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Old 07-10-2014, 08:55 AM #2
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1. What Is The Insight / Victus?

For the purpose of this guide, i'll just be calling this marker an Insight. The difference between an Insight and Victus is purely cosmetic. The Insight is Bob Long's original version with the Ripper-like milling on the body whereas the Victus was made for GI Sportz and features smoother, cleaner milling.

This is a Bob Long Insight NG:



This is a GI Sportz Victus


So, what is an Insight NG?

The Insight NG is the newest gun to hit the market for the 2013 paintball season. With over 2 years of work from inception to final product, the Bob Long NG has been tweaked and adjusted to be one of the most efficient and smoothest shooting spool valve paintball guns on the market.

Everyone knows that the two key components for Bob Long guns are Rate of Fire & Efficiency. The Insight NG is no exception with 30+ BPS and 1400 shots off of a 45/4500 tank. The Bob Long Insight NG packs some serious fire power and will keep you on the field longer with more air.

Key Features:
- Dual Eye Capacity
- Micro Adjustment Bearing Trigger
- OLED Board
- Light Weight Design (1lb 11oz)
- 10 pods off a 45/4500 fill
- 30+ BPS
- No LPR

Bob talking about the motor/drivetrain:




It was also designed to be simple to maintain - in the past, people have felt put off by having to use pressure testers to set the LPR and HPR - so the Insight NG became more 'mainstream' in my opinion, so that they can appeal more to the Planet Eclipse / Dye player market.
Again, the Insight NG does not require a pressure tester.
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Old 07-10-2014, 08:55 AM #3
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2. Efficiency

The Insight NG is probably the most efficient spool valve marker on the market.

Bob got 10 x 140 round pods - 1400 shots off of a 45/4500 fill or 17 x 140 round pods off of a 70/4500 fill - that's 2380 shots!



Obviously, Bob is up in the mountains and probably runs a lower dwell than most of you - and a properly match paint to barrel bore but others have got around 9 pods off a 45/4500 and 15-16 off a 70/4500.
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Old 07-10-2014, 08:55 AM #4
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3. Known Issues

There's a few things you have to keep an eye on - the main one is trigger bounce. Due to the way the Insight shoots, it can accidentally go into full auto mode if it isn't set up correctly.

One of the things that had to be addressed to fix this, was the Ball Delay setting. If you have anything lower than Frenzy v5.19BD then contact BLAST or your local service centre who can flash firmwares (not all places can do it) and send your board in to be flashed.

Thanks to Big Papa Pink for this table of what settings are good to use, with 5.19BD and above:



I would stick to the default setting of 12ms dwell for best experience. If you want to try lowering the dwell, you can do so, but you may get shoot down or FSDO.

Also, when setting the trigger, set the activation point (when you hear the microswitch click) to be 60% of your pull.


Some people have noticed the bolt gets some scratches on it after shooting. This is nothing two worry about BUT it is because you have over-tightened the bolt to the ram shaft causing it to warp the shot a little and cause the rub. When screwing it back in, make sure it isn't torqued down - only has to be gently tightened.
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Old 07-10-2014, 08:56 AM #5
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4. Known Changes

The main changes, other than the board software as mentioned in section 3, are the orings.

Whenever markers are designed, you never know just how they'll react in real world tests as there is only so much you can do in the testing cycle. Sure, you can have 50 people shooting the markers to test them, but that is still a small sample compared to the 1000+ who buy it.

Bob has changed a couple of orings since the release in 2013.

First up, is the 010 Buna D70 located inside the brass refill plug:

It is now either a 010 Urethane or a 1.9x5.8 Buna D70

And here's the finished Drivetrain/Engine:



Second change is the 019 Buna D70 being changed for a 2x20 Buna D70. This tightens the can so it doesn't shake loose when shooting and end up with poor performance and leaks. It also stops air bypassing the brass refill plug and keeps it perfectly aligned.



Both lots of orings are available free from Bob Long if you call them up.

Here is a video of Bob explaining the changes:

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Old 07-10-2014, 08:56 AM #6
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5. How To Maintain The Drivetrain

The drivetrain or engine needs to be serviced ever 2-3 cases of paint. You should use only DOW33, Monkey Poo, Lurker Lube, FLASC SMG, Pathogen Supergrease etc
The bolt needs a drop of Tri-Flow on each of the two orings.

Do NOT use DOW55 on this marker as it swells the orings, which will create drag.


1. Ensure the Insight is turned off and the air is off/removed from the ASA.

2. Remove the drivetrain from the body.

3. Unscrew the ram housing:

Make sure you pop off the 021 Buna D70 oring and put it somewhere safe as you'll lose it.

4. Using a hex key, hold the bolt and put the hex key into the ram shaft and unscrew the ram shaft from the bolt.


It'll look like this once taken apart:



Now, wipe down all the orings and surface areas to remove old grease and debris. Usually it is good practice to remove the orings, clean them and check for damage (replace if required), then before you re-install the orings, put some grease into their oring groove. This means you have grease behind the oring to create a better seal!

All you have to do now is lube the following parts:













If you are in a rush, no need to remove the shaft from the bolt - just lube the surfaces that come into contact with an oring and away you go (maybe do this if you need to maintain it whilst playing a tournament) - but I recommend fully stripping it when you are able to do so.

The Insight eats grease - so please do this every 2-3 cases to ensure maximum performance.

Names of Parts

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Old 07-10-2014, 08:56 AM #7
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6. How To Maintain The HPR

The HPR is very simple to maintain, so this section won't take too long. It is usually a good idea to take it apart and re-lube it after about 10 cases, or if you notice the performance dropping.

Breakdown of the HPR



All you need to do is to unscrew the HPR housing:



Then bang the regulator base on something soft, like your hand or rubber mat so not to damage it. If it doesn't come out easily, just use some needle nose pliers to pull the piston out.

Remove the spring stack too.



Clean inside the regulator base to remove old grease. Use a cotton bud to clean the grease off of the springs on the spring stack. Now, put some DOW33 on your finger and grease inside the regulator base - not a lot of grease is needed there.

Then take the piston and take off the piston oring. Clean the grease from the piston and the oring groove, and make sure the oring has no damage on it. Clean it too, then add some DOW33 to the oring groove on the piston and put the oring back on. Then add a small amount of DOW33 to the oring and pop the spring stack back into the regulator housing; making sure the spring follower goes in first. Then put the piston back in with the piston tip pointing out.



Screw it back onto the marker and away you go for another 10 or so cases!

That is it!

If you want to check your main valve (or Schrader Valve) is fine, then air up your marker without the regulator screwed in. If there is a problem, air will leak from the Schrader Valve - if it doesn't, all is good.
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Old 07-10-2014, 08:57 AM #8
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7. Other Maintenance


Cleaning The Solenoid

Note: I cannot be held responsible for damage caused by you tinkering with your marker. If you are not confident, please seek professional assistance.


Step One:

Make sure you are working on a clean, flat surface and you have somewhere to store your screws.

When taking things apart, always store them in a logical 'pattern' so you know how it all goes back together. If you like, take photos to remind you.

Step Two:

Remove the grip screws and the grip and set them aside somewhere safe. Also remove the 9V battery.



Step Three:

Gently remove the solenoid and wire wire connectors - DO NOT PULL THEM OUT BY THE WIRES AS YOU CAN DAMAGE THEM!



Step Four:

Remove the front and rear frame screws and gently pull the frame apart from the body - BUT watch out for the trigger spring, as it will ping off - so you may want to remove the trigger before you remove the frame! Watch out for the microswitch too!



Put the grip frame to one side now.

Step Five:

Remove the manifold screw which holds the solenoid housing to the body - watch out for any orings that have come out.



Step Six:

See all the lube here? Watch out for the two small orings and the two larger ones. What I did was remove them all and cleaned them. Then cleaned that area down and lubed the holes where the orings were going to go back.



Step Seven:

I then put the orings back on, and cleaned the manifold area of grease, and re-lubed it again so when I put it back together, there was some lube which seals the top of the orings on the body, if you catch me.



Step Eight:

Take the solenoid and unscrew it from the manifold. Nice and simple - it should only be screwed in hand tight.



Once it has been removed, clean the old grease off of it and apply a small amount of grease to it again to make sure the orings are nicely lubed.
Screw it back together and re-assemble the manifold to the body - be careful that the orings are seated correctly! The gasket one can be raised at one side, so make sure it isn't!

Step Nine:

Now re-attach the frame to the body - BUT make sure the eye wires are NOT trapped or pinched!

Correct routing of the eye wires:


Incorrect routing of the eye wires:


When tightening the frame screws, make sure the frame closes easily before you screw. If you see gaps, chances are there is a trapped wire. Also, like when you change the tyre on a car, always screw down each side of the frame evenly - never tighten one side then the other. Again, check there aren't any trapped wires!
Also, watch out for that horrible trigger spring!!!!!!! it has to be seated in the recess of the manifold - there will be a small cut out hole where one end of the spring is meant to sit in. Good luck. It took me a while to get that part back in... with a few bad words spoken

Connect the eye cable and solenoid cable back to the board and put the battery in, and the grips back on - again, screwing them in like putting the bolts back on your tyre.

If you removed the trigger, put it back together but with the Insight, do NOT tighten the spring trigger pin all the way in as it seizes the trigger tight... so go in until you feel resistance, then back out about 1/4-1/2 turn (until the trigger is snappy). You may want to put a tiny bit of blue loctite on it to stop it coming loose.


Hope this helps someone!

Again...

Note: I cannot be held responsible for damage caused by you tinkering with your marker. If you are not confident, please seek professional assistance.
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Old 07-10-2014, 08:57 AM #9
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8. Adjusting the Trigger

The manual pretty much covers how to adjust the trigger. One thing to note, if you get a lot of trigger bounce (where the marker starts shooting once you set off a stream and doesn't stop unless you hold the trigger back from making contact with the micro switch), then Bob recommends you set the trigger activation to about 60% of the full trigger pull.

When putting the trigger back in, if you remove it, the trigger spring will catch on the microswitch:



Simply use a hex key and gently push the spring upwards to move over the microswitch and the trigger will slip in easily.



When tightening the trigger bearing screw, if the trigger seizes up when the screw is tight, chances are the washer on the inside of the frame has come off and is lost. Call BAST for a replacement.
If it is still there, check the routing of your eye wires. If you don't route them through the manifold, they'll not only get pinched and damaged, but they'll also restrict the movement of the trigger when the frame is securely on and the trigger bearing is secured.
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Old 07-10-2014, 08:57 AM #10
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9. List of Orings and Screws Required



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Old 07-10-2014, 09:01 AM #11
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10. Troubleshooting

Thanks to RaymiusII for this part:


Marker does not Power ON
Replace battery with a fresh 9V battery right from the package.
Ensure battery is orientated properly and prongs are making contact with the terminals.
Ensure all wiring and OLED are connected and secured properly.

Marker does not recognize 4C eyes
Ensure eye wires are inserted properly and completely
Ensure wires have not pulled out of connectors
Clean Both eyes
Ensure your board programming is up to date (At or above Insight 5.19)

Marker will not fire
Ensure Marker is turned on and not in programming mode.
Ensure ASA have been turned on (Aired up)
Ensure a paintball is in the breach or the Eyes are off.
Ensure Solenoid and all other wiring is connected properly

Marker fires multiple times each pull (Bounce) or goes full auto
Adjust the trigger activation point to activate in the last of the pull
Ensure trigger pull is long enough.
Ensure nothing is impeding the switch lever
Increase Debounce or Mechanical Debounce settings
Ensure trigger spring is installed

OLED screen shows Eye malfunction (X)
Ensure eye wires are inserted properly and completely
Ensure wires have not pulled out of connectors
Clean Both eyes

Marker double feeds
Ensure detents and springs are in place.
Ensure Detents can move freely (lubricate if necessary)
Replace worn or broken Detents
Adjust Loader Stack tension (if applicable)

Marker velocity is very inconstant or the marker has drop-off
Replace battery with a fresh 9V battery right from the package.
Ensure your paint to barrel bore is correct
Ensure you are using round fresh high quality paintballs
Check Operating Pressure is between 150-185psi (Pressure Tester Needed)
Remove and relube engine ram and bolt with proper lubrication (Thick, gummy, or lack of lubricant can result all result inconsistency and drop off.)
Ensure engine pieces are tightly screwed together.
Replace the two 010 orings at the back of the ram.

Marker leaks from the right side of the back engine cap
Carefully remove solenoid and lightly grease / oil the lower orings. (Closest to Solenoid body) DO NOT OVER LUNBRICATE OR USE DOW55
If orings are damaged contact BLAST for replacements

Marker leaks between the frame and the body
Ensure you are using Low Pressure Tanks as recommended. Use of medium or high pressure will increase the chance of blowing out this oring.
Check and make sure both frame screws are tight.
Ensure oring is present and lubricate (DOW55 recommended) and reassemble. Typically relubing and reassembling, then letting it sit overnight before airing up. Typically works well.

Marker leaks between the frame and the ASA
Ensure you are using Low Pressure Tanks as recommended. Use of medium or high pressure will increase the chance of blowing out this oring.
Check 015 oring on the tank
Check and make sure both ASA screws are tight.
Ensure oring is present and lubricate (DOW55 recommended) and reassemble. Typically relubing and reassembling, then letting it sit overnight before airing up typically works well.

Marker leaks from the left side of the back engine cap
Ensure Back cap screw is tight to the housing. Use Blue Loctite if needed.
Ensure 1mm X 2mm oring is not missing and is in place properly behind the back cap.

Marker leaks from Engine removal Button
Ensure Screws on the button assembly are tight
Carefully remove the button assembly and lubricate the 011 oring on the button and reinstall. Dow55 Recommended

Marker leaks from the front of the Marker
Ensure front firing can oring is secure and the correct size (020)
Ensure U-cup oring (Flapper) is not damaged and is orientated correctly.
Bottom of the U faces the front of the Marker

Getting excessive breach wear
Ensure the bolt is tight on the ram shaft. Over tightening may cause the bolt to be out of alignment on the shaft, so do not over tighten.
Ensure Firing Can is tight to ram housing
Bolt may be bent or firing chamber is honed incorrectly. Send marker in to BLAST.
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Old 07-10-2014, 09:02 AM #12
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Old 07-10-2014, 09:02 AM #13
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Old 07-10-2014, 09:02 AM #14
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Old 07-10-2014, 09:23 AM #15
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Yep - but it was asked for - so you can SEE things better

Bob's manuals are just OK - nothing special
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Old 07-10-2014, 12:44 PM #16
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Nicely done thus far. Great walk-through for those who are new to the platform.
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Old 07-10-2014, 01:01 PM #17
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Just out for a meal then a festival so I'll finish it when I get home.

Thanks :-)
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Old 07-10-2014, 02:40 PM #18
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Old 07-14-2014, 01:17 PM #19
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I think i've finished it now...
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Old 07-14-2014, 01:46 PM #20
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Finished?!?!? It is a good start ... LOL ...

Awesome work.
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Old 07-14-2014, 01:47 PM #21
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heehee what did I miss?


Oooooh yeah - what oring goes where... visually
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