I don't know why, but I love my Talons. There's just something about that $20 plastic paintball gun. So, I give to you my collective Talon knowledge in hopes that it will only increase with time.
Replacement Talon Parts
Feel free to contribute by posting below. Hey, if Raptors merit their own thread the Talon does too!
IN THIS THREAD
-nail polish detents
The following quoted text comes from the now defunct Talon Owner's Group. http://www.geocities.com/talonowners.../internals.htm
Putting a Barrel on the Talon
Originally Posted by Monkey Wrench @ Talon Owner's Group
* Dremel Moto-tool or Mini-mite
* Felt polishing tip for Dremel
* Philips Screwdriver
* Very fine grit sandpaper (Testor's model sanding films work very well)
Disassemble the gun's frame. Looking at the internals, you'll see that the way the gun fires is that catch on the hammer locks onto the bolt when it is cocked, compressing the spring. When the trigger is pulled, the catch is released, and the spring propels the hammer along the the power tube to slam it against the valve body for just long enough to let loose enough CO2 to propel the paintball down the barrel very rapidly. By smoothing the travel path along the power tube, the amount of friction is reduced in the travel of the hammer, giving more velocity and more efficient working of the internals.
Take the internals off of the plastic frame, and take the hammer, spring, and bolt off of the power tube and valve. Taking a very, very fine grit of sandpaper, sand the shaft of the power tube until you notice a difference in smoothness. Now, take a Dremel Moto-Tool and use the felt polishing tip to polish the power tube to a shine. Now it's time to work with the hammer itself. Wrap the sandpaper you used before around a pencil, and use that to sand the inside of the hammer. After you do this for a while (or when your hand wears out), polish the inside of the hammer with the Dremel.
Power Tube Expansion
Remember, most fields will not allow a speed higher than 300 feet per second. If you open the velocity too much with this mod, it is not reversible, and you'll have to buy a new power tube (or entire valve assembly).
* Dremel Moto-tool or Mini-mite with router bit
OR (for more accuracy in increasing hole size)
* Drill press with 1/16" bits or smaller
* Crescent wrench or pliers
* Phillips screwdriver
* Silicone gun oil
1. Disassemble the frame and remove the valve assembly.
2. Loosen and remove the large flat nut at the base of the power tube.
3. Disassemble the valve, laying out all the parts in an order that you can get it back together correctly.
4. Look at the part of the power tube that stays inside the valve assembly, and you'll see two parallel holes that are aligned perpendicular to the power tube itself.
5. Using the drill press, drill, or Dremel Moto-tool, try to lengthen those two holes. Making them wider will not do you as much good as lengthening them. By lengthening those two holes, more CO2 would be allowed through the power tube when the hammer presses the power tube back into the valve, increasing your velocity.
6. Reassemble the valve assembly after oiling all the parts that fit inside the valve.
7. Reassemble the Talon frame with the rest of the internals.
Cup Seal Reduction
1. Take the valve apart and very carfully file down the ridge that the cup seal rests on.
2. Take it down until there is just enough to seal against. This opens up the holes in the power tube without weakening the power tube.
3. Replace the cup seal with a Lapco Spyder cup seal. It is softer and seals better than stock.
4. Reassemble the valve assembly.
5. Reassemble the Talon frame with the rest of the internals.
* Dremel Moto-tool or Mini-mite
* Router bit and aluminum oxide grinding stone
* One Penny
* Vice grips (for holding the penny)
* Electric drill and bits
Take a penny and attach the vice grips near the edge (just enough to hold it still, 'cause that sucker's gonna get hot!) drill a hole directly in the center of it that is about 7/32" (or up to 1/4', just as long as it is large enough for the penny to slide with ease up and down the power tube) Now, take the Dremel and use the router bit or aluminum oxide grinding stone to shave down the outside rim of the penny so that the penny will fit inside the inner lip of the hammer on the side that the spring goes into (the catch juts out of that side). Place the penny inside the lip and then reassemble the internals to put back in the gun. By placing this spacer in between the hammer and the spring, the spring will be compressed tighter when you cock it. The hammer will then fly back considerably faster against the power tube, giving more velocity. You can add as many pennies as you need to for increasing velocity, but beware that if you but too many on, the spring will partially open the valve even in the uncocked position, leaking CO2 out the barrel.
* 12 inches of flat foam weatherstripping OR a roll of toilet paper
There are many open cavities within the Talon. Using a foam weatherstripping (or you can also tightly roll tissue paper), fill these various cavities in until they are flush with the frame. You want to make sure that you don't overfill, or else the marker won't fit back together very well. Fill the cavities (except for the one directly below the valve on the butt of the gun, we'll be using that later), and then place just enough padding around the lower portion of the valve and CO2 mount that you can still reassemble the frame. This will reduce the sound of firing from a huge CRRRACK! on the field to a small, mildly noticeable click. As a sidenote, several people have used spray-in foam insulation and had similar results.
*Spyder threaded barrel
*Rotary tool (Dremel) with a sanding attachment
Start by sanding/grinding the threads off the Spyder barrel. Spyder barrels are best for this mod because they have a small enough outer diameter to fit and are almost the perfect length from the base to the end of the threads. Next lightly sand the base of the barrel until it is even and smooth. You can put the barrel aside for now. Next saw off the Talon's barrel where it meets the body, leaving a little less than one inch of barrel. This is what the Spyder barrel will fit into. Next start widening what's left of the barrel with the rotary tool, checking the size with the Spyder barrel until it has a snug fit. The first 1/8" of the original barrel should be left as it is to seal with the bolt o-ring.
Nail Polish Detents
*Phillips head screw-driver
The most common frustration with any pump gun is rollouts, balls that roll partially or completely out the barrel. To fix this apply a thin layer of nail polish to the first 7/10'' to 3/4'' of the inside of the barrel. When the nail polish has dried put a few paintballs in the barrel. If most of them still roll out you might want to add another layer of nail polish. The nail polish will hold the paintballs right in front of the bolt every time for maximum consistency and accuracy.