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Old 01-28-2017, 09:32 PM #1
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E-Orracle Leak/Timing

Hello everyone,

Just a little background on this issue, I recently purchased an E bladed Orracle online (first really nice gun I ever shot and i always wanted one). So I air it up and there is a small leak coming from the Fitting on the In-Line Reg. It's right near the macro line. So regardless of the small leak, I try to fire it just to see what happens. It appears it stays cocked for far too long. It takes too long for the bolt and block to move back forward. I inserted a video.

My question is, is this just a leak issue? As in, does the back block stay back because there is not enough air getting through due to the leak? Is that a timing issue? Or both? I've also considered the possibility of buying a new in-line reg (preferably a black magic one so it looks original).

I've done some of my own research as this is my first auto cocker, but need a little help here. Any assistance is appreciated. Thank you!

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Old 01-29-2017, 09:26 AM #2
vantrepes
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Push and hold the top button. That will turn the eyes off.
Right now, the frame is waiting for the signal saying a ball was loaded. Since there's no ball, it waits until the default time, then closes.
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Old 01-29-2017, 12:57 PM #3
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Yep, the eyes are on. The BDEL (Ball Delay) setting is waiting for the eye to read paint before closing the breech.

It also sounds like your sear isn't dropping the hammer, and your LPR seems like it might be a little low. Put in a FRESH, high quality 9 volt. Spend the bucks on a good one. The E1 was power thirsty something awful. Expect to burn out a battery per outing.

About the leak in the reg, You'll need a rebuild kit. They can be a bit of a pain to get open, but it's not impossible.

If the person before you got all crazy with the settings, it might be a good idea to reset the board to factory fast. Open the right side grip panel, turn the marker on and then hold down the red button on the board to open the firing settings.

Scroll down to the FACT setting, use the center button to select it, and then select FAST. It'll reset everything back to factory at 12.1(?) BPS.
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Last edited by Dk-79 : 01-29-2017 at 01:01 PM.
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Old 01-30-2017, 09:36 AM #4
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Vantrepes and Dk-79, thank you very much for the feedback. I'll try those things and post an update sometime later next week. Those were very helpful!
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Old 01-30-2017, 11:08 AM #5
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Dk-79 is right about the Black Magic Reg being a pain. I took the C-clip out of the bottom of mine and never put it back in. Getting a strap wrench goes a long way in helping you break it in half to maintain it. I don't think I would have gotten mine apart scratch free without one.
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Old 01-30-2017, 06:19 PM #6
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My bad. I should have mentioned I have a center flag in line reg. I'm thinking about just getting a new in line entirely. What do ya'll think?
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Old 01-30-2017, 08:01 PM #7
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Just make sure it can go at least 350psi. Most cockers sweet spot below 300, but some can go over 350, depending on the springs.

Best to get a reg that will cover all your sweet spotting needs.
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Old 01-31-2017, 08:16 AM #8
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Dk-79 and Bonusball, thank you for the information. I'll post an update when I can! Really looking forward to getting this thing goin
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Old 02-12-2017, 04:45 PM #9
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So the leak is fixed. There's still an issue with the back block staying back for too long even when a ball is loaded. It's strange. Then it seems like the pressure just drops and balls basically just drip out of the barrel.

Thank you all for the help. It's much appreciated.
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Old 02-12-2017, 05:39 PM #10
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Check the eye function and sensitivity (the eye might have crapped out). As far as not getting to FPS, I'd recommend lubing the HPR and sweetspotting it starting at 150'ish PSI.
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Old 02-12-2017, 07:31 PM #11
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tacxplosion, will do. thank you!
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Old 02-12-2017, 08:47 PM #12
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Have you adjusted the LPR and played the with hammer set screw?

From watching your video the following stuck out:
- Sear not releasing the hammer
- lpr way to low

If you have played with these two then its setting related or you may need to do a rebuild of both HPR & LPR.
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Old 02-12-2017, 10:40 PM #13
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K-Dolla$, I haven't done either of those. I'll check that out. This is the first cocker I've owned so still learning. I really appreciate the tips!

I'm assuming I can find some threads or youtube videos on how to do that. If you have any solid sources, let me know. Thanks again.
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Old 02-12-2017, 11:25 PM #14
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If you go into the mode settings using the red button under the right grip panel, you can set it to "classic" mode.

This way, the back block will stay back as long as you hold down the trigger. Hold the trigger down and up the LPR until the block hits the farthest back it can go, and add a 1/4 turn extra for good measure.

You can adjust the sear by first making sure that it is engaging the sear lug. Without air, manually cock the cocking rod. It should lock up against the sear with a nice click, but should also fire reliably.

The hole on the top of the body behind the feedneck is the sear lug access hole. With the bolt removed, insert a 1/8th inch allen key into the hole (hammer should be uncocked)

loosening the lug will raise it and make it have less contact with the sear, lowering it increases the sear contact. With an eblade you want the sear lug to be as close to no contact, while still catching reliably.
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Old 02-18-2017, 12:30 PM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dk-79 View Post
If you go into the mode settings using the red button under the right grip panel, you can set it to "classic" mode.

This way, the back block will stay back as long as you hold down the trigger. Hold the trigger down and up the LPR until the block hits the farthest back it can go, and add a 1/4 turn extra for good measure.

You can adjust the sear by first making sure that it is engaging the sear lug. Without air, manually cock the cocking rod. It should lock up against the sear with a nice click, but should also fire reliably.

The hole on the top of the body behind the feedneck is the sear lug access hole. With the bolt removed, insert a 1/8th inch allen key into the hole (hammer should be uncocked)

loosening the lug will raise it and make it have less contact with the sear, lowering it increases the sear contact. With an eblade you want the sear lug to be as close to no contact, while still catching reliably.
DK, i appreciate the detailed instructions. I tried to take your advice and found I can't even get the darn thing into classic mode. When I turn it on, it says it's version 1.06 for what that's worth. I did discover my COFF setting was way too high. Maybe that'll help a bit. When i turned the eyes off, I still noticed that it wasn't firing as fast as I could pull the trigger. I feel like it should be able to do that.

Again, I appreciate all the suggestions. Does anyone know of a place that still works on cockers? I was so excited to get my hands on this thing. Disappointing.
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Old 02-18-2017, 01:23 PM #16
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I'd send it to vantrepes @ moodypb.com, he's been working on 'cockers since forever. Alternatively, I'd take a look at it, but shipping would kill you...
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Old 02-18-2017, 04:35 PM #17
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