Yeah, if you want a feather light trigger pull and the ability to walk it, get an e-frame. You can take out the microswitch (2 pins, tap out) and pop off the clips on the side to open it up. From there, its pretty self explanatory how to both shorten the stroke, as well as lighten the activation pressure. Just use a pin or something, and keep testing it to make sure it still trips, and its not too light, or you'll have problems with bounce.
You can cut down the bumps on your trigger, and glue things to the back to activate the switch, and act as a backstop. Cut down the spring and adjust the screw, or just buy a whole new trigger. I also found that replacing the sear spring w/ a penspring I cut in half did wonders for my recocking, cycling ability, and battery life, but that was just me...
Mods:old ESP frame (shimmed/modded trigger, polished sear and solenoid internals, lightened sear spring, ESP 3.0 CAMD board, Dye Sticky 3 grips), stock bolt (removed venturi, SPPS "swoosh" mod, "massaged" valve hole, polished), polished striker and valve pin, drilled VA and CA, VS1 bottomline, VS1 valve spring and homemade shim kit, clamping feedneck, J&J ceramic 14" barrel, 9oz and 12oz CO2, VL200...
Need:a real spring kit, NDZ valve, and a decent hopper, anti-siphoned 20oz CO2 or maybe HPA...?
PM ME IF YOU HAVE: stock pilot acs trigger, Rodeo frame complete, CHEAP but working hopper or 20oz co2, flat black pilot or vs lpc