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Old 03-12-2009, 06:20 PM #22
thehebrewhammer137
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well for me, the valve alone would be great, as i do all the rest of my stuff myself. What type of valve is it, and how much $ are we talking?
thanks so much
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Old 03-13-2009, 08:11 AM #23
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Its like a piston valve, but smaller and faster. and it will take pressures up to 400psi (based in testing). Price.....don't really know yet. but shooting for the $75-$100 range. and that would include all you need except a barrel and grip. All aluminum.
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Old 03-13-2009, 02:28 PM #24
thehebrewhammer137
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well that sounds great, would there be a way to purchase the valve alone? and if so, is it electronicly triggered, or pnuematic?
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Old 03-13-2009, 02:40 PM #25
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Yeah, we'll also be selling just the valve. Its mechanical. Electric adds cost and complexity.
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Old 03-14-2009, 03:11 PM #26
thehebrewhammer137
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awseome, any price range on that?
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-No, You're talking to my guy all wrong. Its the wrong tone. You do it again, and il stab you in the face with a soldering iron.
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Old 03-14-2009, 03:14 PM #27
thehebrewhammer137
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PS "Q" any info on your launcher?
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-No, You're talking to my guy all wrong. Its the wrong tone. You do it again, and il stab you in the face with a soldering iron.
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Old 03-14-2009, 09:26 PM #28
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All precision machined, custom made. Aluminum construction with hardened steel components in critical wear and impact locations. Spring wound auto index. Load from the rear like a like a single action army revolver. put in a rocket rotate backwards and load in another. When all 6 rockets are in, it is also fully wound.
The power unit is of the piston valve type. Designed and built by myself.
The piston valve is located whithin the air chamber, they are one in the same.

Pulling and releasing the trigger fires a rocket and indexes the cylinder.
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Old 03-15-2009, 10:21 AM #29
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Q, if you don't mind me asking, what type of piston valve did you use, and what did type of valve did you use to exhaust the pilot chamber?
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Old 03-15-2009, 02:35 PM #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwampRat442 View Post
Q, if you don't mind me asking, what type of piston valve did you use, and what did type of valve did you use to exhaust the pilot chamber?
I made all the parts for the main piston valve myself in my machine shop. From raw aluminum stock. I do not exhaush the pilot chamber. I use positive pressure to push the piston valve open.

This is the little valve that I use as the trigger valve. to provide the positive pulse to open the main valve.

http://store.nexternal.com/shared/St...ount2=86005806

Sorry the link will only take you to the home page.

You will have to search the part number.
The part number is A0-30-3
The two 0's are the number zero.
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Old 03-15-2009, 09:29 PM #31
thehebrewhammer137
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wow, sounds like you put a lot more effort into your launchers than i do haha,
but it sounds like you've got an amazing setup, and kudos to you for developing such a high quality system (i just work with plastic, and find makeshift pistons) but i think thats really cool
great job man
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---WTB beat up/abused pump for cheap
---WTB ATS magazine(s)

Advanced Tactical Systems (ATS) guns...you've never hear of them, but they're where its at.

-No, You're talking to my guy all wrong. Its the wrong tone. You do it again, and il stab you in the face with a soldering iron.
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Old 03-19-2009, 10:17 AM #32
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can anybody do me a favor and break down how thise launchers auto load. im currently tring to build one my self and im stuck on how to make it auto rotate.
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Old 03-19-2009, 10:19 AM #33
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I use a tension spring to "pre-rotate" the cylinder and use a rachet connected to the trigger.
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Old 03-19-2009, 10:23 AM #34
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Originally Posted by "Q" View Post


Not an Eclipse. I built this one myself, Three years ago.

You know,
I'm not usually one to hype up gear that falls outside the realm of your normal, everyday, paintball gun, BUT, I have to give credit where credit is definitely DUE!!!!!

That launcher is the coolest thing I've seen in several years......

Kudos to you sir!!!!!!
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Old 03-19-2009, 10:29 AM #35
PAINTBALL-N-FREAK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damonwill View Post
I use a tension spring to "pre-rotate" the cylinder and use a rachet connected to the trigger.
how does the rachet/trigger mecanism work?
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Old 03-19-2009, 09:16 PM #36
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hey Q if you are not going to manufacture it. Do you think you could post the plans? or at least sell some of the custom parts? Pm me if you think its possible.
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Old 05-24-2009, 09:59 AM #37
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yo tht is OD. can u tell me how to make tht?
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Old 07-16-2009, 08:11 PM #38
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AWESOME idea, care to post some blueprints
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Old 07-16-2009, 08:40 PM #39
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No blueprints right now. no time to make them...
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Old 07-18-2009, 07:45 AM #40
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Hey Q, Head Hunter here.

I will testify that Q is not exaggerating about his launchers performance. I went head to head with it in my walking tank up at Sherwood Paintball in LaPorte Indiana.

I had to CHANGE the way I played in my tank simply because of his presence on the field. Something I don't like to do. It was a great equalizer.

My most memorable engagement was at the Crossroads. We had been pushed out and were supposed to take it back. It tactically controls a good portion of the field. If you own it you control about half the field. Centrally located at the intersection of the major tank roads, it was a great staging area for all our missions into enemy territory with tank support. In open field, it is a two story structure surrounded by bunkers, logs, pallet cover, etc.

We started our push. I blew up the first line of bunkers with my tank cannon. And our advance squad advanced into them. My tank went forward and blew up the two story structure killing all the defenders inside. (We had an engineer to rebuild it) They had 2-3 anti tank weapons and I knew my tank would be engaged at any moment. So I went to the two story structure for COVER from RPGs and was screaming for the rest of the infantry to move up and clear out the remaining defenses. They started moving up. Again I was blasting away at the flanking bunkers with defending grunts in them so they could move up and use those bunkers for cover in the push. Might get lucky and kill a RPG player inside one of those.

Running around the corner a RPG guy and takes a snap shot with his RPG, turns and runs back behind the building. For some reason, he missed at 15 -20 feet but I was backing up and dodging in Turbo Reverse.

That guy plays like I do. He tried to bunker my tank with a RPG! Being ballsy like that should be discouraged on the other team. I decided to go right after him and kill him before he had a chance to reload and try that again. I go around the corner after him and guess who I ran into?

Q

He was moving up to attack with his accompanying infantry/anti tank squad and they were totally exposed less than 15 yards away. Caught them in the open. His cover was 2" grass. When he saw my tank I'm sure his first thought was Oh SHIP! He had no choice but to drop to his knee and snap off a shot to try and kill my tank. He infantry did the same and put up a screen of covering fire trying to blind me with paint.

My first thought was "Oh SHIP!" as well and hit turbo reverse trying to back up and get back behind the building for cover. All I could do was fire my marker and hope to get him or scare him into hurrying a shot and miss.

Well, we ALL missed. It was inches if I recall. How far off was it Q? I was busy at the time...

I couldn't let him move up or move to cover. I HAD to go back out and try to get him while he was still exposed. Nice thing about a back pack based walking tank is you can jump sideways and dodge incomming Nerfs.

I leaned out and took a couple of shots with my marker and he lined me up and fired another round. At 15 yards, I was already ducking before he fired. That Nerf went within inches of the netting again. I leaned back and and fired a burst and ducked again. Another Nerf goes by my netting. I lean out and fire another and duck. Another nerf goes by my netting. I HAD to get him. I leaned out again and he had anticipated my timing and had a Nerf already on the way when I leaned out. Fortunately, it hit the side of the building just a couple of feet from me. So I just stayed out and finnally got an aimed shot to break on him. That firefight was a scream. We took it back and the opposing general called in his one air strike and killed us all and they took it back. It was just pure dumb luck that my tank was still alive.

One the way home I realized Q and I had probably made paintball HISTORY. It was probably the first SPEEDBALL style engagement ever between a tank and a autoloading RPG.

Hey Q. How many rounds did you fire all together playing Nerf Speedball with my tank?
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Old 07-18-2009, 09:45 AM #41
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This is a work in progress but my help stimulate some thinking about how to build an autoloader.

So anybody that wants what I have so far including how to Word files can ask via e mail ddupont@charter.net

First, it is a screw-on UPGRADE for any cannon or RPG. It goes right on the outlet of the main valve. Self contained and has only two moving parts unless you count the three springs moving. An amazingly simple design that I didn't believe would work because there are so many guys that are smarter than I am building stuff. Surely someone had to try this before me. I had to build one to find out why it did wouldn't work but it worked!

PVC, Wood, hardware store hardware, springs, etc.

Cost very little to build using basic shop equipment for Wood and Plastic fabrication. I believe in the KIS principal and many of my upgrades are just easier and more simpler ways to fabricate it or make it lighter and more compact.

The 6 shot autoloader as seen below the 4 shot magazine adds only 6 pounds to a standard RPG or cannon. My Shorty RPG weighs 6 pounds minus the HPA supply so a homemade, autoloading upgrade should come in around 12 pounds. I continue to work on upgrades. I have sucessfully tested a barrel that drops 2 pounds off the standard schedule 40 PVC barrel that is 24" long. Yes, it weighs near NOTHING!

How it works with illustrated pictures:
Side view:


Breech view:


Indexing and moving the magazine is where everyone gets stuck... So more detail:



My 6 shot magazine below where I tried an indexing SCREW instead of the lugs. It worked but I'm not satisfied with the BEST way to index yet in terms of ease of fabrication. It was very difficult to instal.



You can SEE the fabrication of the 6 shot mag was MUCH simpler than the fabrication of the 4 shot mag. Experimented with a wide variety of fabrication materials and techniques. That piston is LITERALLY pounding on that magazine and its construction has to be quite robust to survive that. About 100 pounds of force with each shot. My testing included putting a piece of plywood over the back of it and beathing it to death with a big rubber mallet. Stood on it (220 lbs) and threw it down the stairs repeatedly. Found several technique that would hold and many that would fail. Just e mail me for the pics and materials of what worked.
Glued three PAIRS together first.


You can see where I tried to glue the indexing lug in the seam. Eliminated that fearing the lug would hang up on the piston as it rotates IF the piston doesn't retract quickly enough. I don't know it won't work. NEXT upgrade, I plan to try it. Just extend that carbon fiber arrow shaft about 1/4 inch over the edge. If it DOESN'T work, just cut it off, file it flush, and use the indexing screw again. Worth a try for that amount of extra time. Pondering if I could put a 45 degree chafer on the outside of the piston and one side of the carbon fiber to reduce the likelyhood of the piston hanging up. Use a heavier retraction spring on the piston. Smaller diameter of the outlet through the piston into the chamber would take a bit LONGER for the pressure to drop to zero giving the retraction spring a little more TIME to get out of the way... Lots of Tweaks to tinker with to maybe get it to work reliably IF it is a problem in the first place...

Then assembled and glued the three pair to make the 6 shot mag.



A combination of SuperGlue, epoxy, fiberglass reinforcing POWDER and Fabric plus carbon fiber arrow shafts turned out to be pretty much bullet proof and easy to fabricate. The super glue is used primarily for the initial set up to hold it together temporarily just to make it easy to handle while you apply the carbon fiber, epoxy and reinforcing fiberglass powder and fabric.

You can see what I made that barrel out of below. Working on fabrication techniques to make a magazine out of the same stuff. See the black carbon fiber shafts used to reinforce the glue joints.



Anybody want to play with my "Invisible RPG"? Very early in the R&D but the material is a 2" x 24" polycarbonate mailing tube. It shot 230+ fps Nerfs out of my Shorty RPG operating at 145 psi. Makes a lovely ultralight barrel you wouldn't want to fall on top of. It would break. BUT is slides INSIDE schedule 40 and could be used as a LINER for a PVC barrel drilled full of holes to lighten it. It would look cool too... Line an MEGA 50 cal barrel.

Question? here or e mail.

Now you don't have to carry the whole thing in your hands. You can put most of the cannon hardware and HPA on our back. Does this pic give you any ideas for a screw on upgrade for an autoloading RPG?


Last edited by Boom Master : 07-18-2009 at 10:11 AM.
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Old 07-26-2009, 08:03 PM #42
Cromagnum Tankerman
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Whats the status!

Damon, Whats the status of this launcher I ordered from you. You indicated the end of summer which isnt far away. I have sent you two private messages and you havnt responded. I dont have another game until mid September. Can I expect something by then?

Nelson
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