Too many "issues" have been reported on this forum just because people are either new to the sport, lack the knowledge or are just too lazy to read through the manual in order to know how to properly maintain their SLGs.
In order to keep the "fake Issues" thread count to a minimum I decided to write this small guide.
Fist off and before we get our hands dirty, lets start by taking in to count a couple of concepts that will ease everybody's understanding of the guns internal, how they work and will make it easier to troubleshoot.
One basic but very important concept to understand is airflow (working pressure/recharge rate).
SLGs highly depend on a good air flow and adequate HPR pressure setting as these two factors have a direct impact on how well the bolt system, and ultimately the gun, works/performs.
You should perform regulator maintenance on your HPR, as soon as your get your gun and at least once every year or ideally every 6 moths, in order to avoid pressure drops while shooting, which in time might lead to Full-Auto issues if shooting at low FPS Limits (Reball). Also, you should run your FPS between 270 and 290 during marker and regulator break in period (ideally 5 cases of paint), only then will the gun work under a low FPS setting.
Another gun "component" that also contributes to bad airflow/slow recharge rates is the ASA.
That's why it's very important to correctly set the depressor pin on your ASA (refer to manual) and to always make sure to fully tighten your tank on to the ASA.
Another very important concept that people have to understand is that the SLG uses a electromagnetic pancake noid to activate/release the bolt (just like e-spyders, e-tippmans, etc).
Although the SLG pancake noid design is much more efficient then other pancake noids currently on the market, it still means that it will need/use a bit more juice from the battery (in comparison to elecropneumatic noids).
This is the main reason my people should use fresh quality batteries.
Usual "malfunctions" caused by the use of low quality/drained batteries are, between several, Full-Auto issues, faulty eyes (some times causing chops), gun turns off after a couple of shots.
Still regarding batteries, on the UL SLG, some batteries "appear" shorter then others which means that, in some cases, the gun will disconnect in the mid play. In this case use a small piece of the battery pack´s cardboard under the battery for a perfect/tight fit.
Now that we understand part of the SLG's voodoo, lets get our hands dirty and take care of the stuff that takes care of 90% of the reported issues, that's maintenance.
One of the great things about the SLG is the ease of maintenance. Maintenance can be done in under 5 minutes.
While performing maintenance there are only 4 things you should be aware of.
Not over lubing the bolt tip, properly lubing bolt and plunger orings (also the plunger in the UL), cleaning the eyes and their holes and properly tightening the back cap.
That being said, now on to the process:
1 - Press the back cap bleed button
2 - Remove back cap
3 - Take out the bolt (push it with your finger through the feed neck or use a swab through the front of the gun)
4 - Clean bolt (if the bolt appears nicked/scratched between the catcher ring and the back of the bolt, go to your proshop and ask them to adjust your sear travel)
5 - Clean plunger (also clean the silencer in the case of a UL, never forgetting to use a q tip to clean the inside of the silencer)
6 - Clean the inside of the gun by using both a swab and a towel (you may need to aply force when orings are new or the gun has been in rest for some time)
7 - Check the inside of the bolt and make sure the SOFT RUBBER CUSHION is in there
8 - Check bolt and plunger orings for damage and replace the damaged ones.
9 - Check that the quad O15 bumper O-ring (square one next to vent hole) is not damaged (some barbs may appear with use, just clip them) or covering the vent hole. If damaged replace with the one on the parts kit.
10 - Make sure the bolt is properly screwed (tip + back)
11 - Lube bolt and plunger orings (must also lube the silencer in case of the UL). only use a small amount of lube on the bolt tip orings so that you don't run the risk of getting the eyes covered.
12 - Apply a small amount of lube on the plunger rod, right on to the cone that holds the oring, so that the air flow drags the lube towards the plunger (and silencer, in the case of the UL)
13 - Insert bolt while holding the gun with trigger frame up in order to avoid getting too much lube on the sear
14 - Insert and tighten the back cap (make sure its screwed in all the way and secure)
15 - Chrono the gun between 270 and 290 FPS.
16 - You're set! Go play!!
ALWAYS PERFORM MAINTENANCE BEFORE PLAY
Maintaining the gun after play and letting it sit for a long time will greatly increase the change of erratic behavior.