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Old 02-03-2009, 01:41 PM #22
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thats no really like what the other guy did. but herers a VL mod i found on youtube that makes your VL activate like a fasta loader. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3BPEt...eature=channel

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Old 02-03-2009, 02:00 PM #23
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here is what I did psychozulu, this is really for mech markers. you can pm me if you have other questions.
http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/in...&categoryID=22

lets get back on topic though.
*who else is interested in this trigger switch kit for spyders?*
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Old 02-03-2009, 02:18 PM #24
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As I already have a Hall FX kit and NV trigger, I highly recommend them. They work great. So I would like to see more of them, though I don't have another spyder that I would put it in at the moment.
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Old 02-03-2009, 05:22 PM #25
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nvm then
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Old 02-03-2009, 05:23 PM #26
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can they fit my old spyder tl-r? if so then put me on the list im interested; will we discuss price later?
it's a switch. you need an electric trigger frame.
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Old 02-04-2009, 07:55 AM #27
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Lightbulb

Guys, I've posted up a few details regarding the kits and this last run. I will probably add more later, but at least we now have a centralized collection of instructions and links.

http://jimb.thvhosting.net/

If you have something to add, just let me know. I'm glad I can help you guys out.
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Old 02-04-2009, 01:42 PM #28
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put me down for one.
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Old 02-04-2009, 02:22 PM #29
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Added you Psycho.
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Old 02-04-2009, 03:41 PM #30
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Added you Psycho.
i forgot to mention that its for a virtue board.
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Old 02-04-2009, 03:54 PM #31
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if you go tot the link that XyXyll posted it says that he can help those who have boards with membrane pads such as virtues with a custom solution. http://jimb.thvhosting.net/
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Old 02-04-2009, 04:12 PM #32
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how hard would it be to mount one to an 08 electra? can that be done? its a tadao, but i have limited knowledge of electrical engineering.
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Old 02-04-2009, 04:13 PM #33
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it's a different frame, it won't fit. It is designed for the older model frames.
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Old 02-04-2009, 04:16 PM #34
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so essentially the hall switch is too big to fit in to the trigger frame? or is there a wiring problem? ie: no place to attach the switch. a more in depth explanation of how the switch works would be great, because as i understand it now you basically replace the micro switch with a switch that is triggered by the hall effect.
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Old 02-04-2009, 04:31 PM #35
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correct, that is the concept, but the switch is different in the new 08's than in the older models. If you know what the microswitch in the older models looks like it is the same size, just no button on front.

edit: not sure if the 08 switches look the same, other than that I don't know, there might be a wiring issue like in the V/RS series.
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Old 02-04-2009, 05:19 PM #36
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i'll take a look at my marker. how big is the hall switch and how are you supposed to attach it? i want to make some kind of comparison and see if this is an option for the 08 electra.
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Old 02-04-2009, 05:31 PM #37
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the switch is approx, 1" long by 1/2" wide by 1/4" thick (this is very approximate) and it is held in place by 2 pins that go through the main body of it.
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Old 02-04-2009, 06:02 PM #38
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Lightbulb

The VS/MR/RS and newer Spyders present two challenges for installing a Hall effect sensor. Each of these complications is described below.

As Omegara mentioned, the new smaller trigger switches that Kingman adopted with the MR's release are significantly different than the former switches. The challenge here is redesigning the housing for the Hall effect sensor to accommodate the stock trigger switch location.

Former trigger switch (from which the Hall FX kit is designed)
New trigger switch

The second challenge is efficiently powering the Hall effect sensor. The new boards found on the VS/MR/RS, newer Spyders, and even some older Spyders (Tadao, Virtue, Lucky boards) are never powered down. When shut off, they simply go into standby mode until they are booted back up. How then, with minimal space available in the trigger frame, can the HES's power draw be regulated?


Each of these challenges can be overcome with a little ingenuity and sacrifice. I am working on a solution, but in the mean time, the product being prepared for this group buy is the original X-Customs Hall FX kit for ESP-framed Spyders. If you have any more questions, please ask away.
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Old 02-04-2009, 06:33 PM #39
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i don't quite understand what you mean by power draw. i'm guessing it has something to do with how the hall sensor works but i am not quite sure. could you elaborate, i like to understand how things i use work.

another question. what is the distance between the pins that hold the switch in place? i'm toying with the idea of buying a hall kit, seeing if i can shoehorn it into my electra. there actually seems to be a significant amount of space around the micro-switch in my electra, so having to re-drill pin holes may be my only obstacle,other than attaching it to the board. if it's not possible i'm guessing it would not be too hard to sell it to someone in the future.
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Old 02-04-2009, 07:21 PM #40
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The Hall Sensor uses power from the on/off switch in the older framed Spyders. In the newer Spyders along with the after market boards for the older Spyder frames(except the SD board) there is not an on/off switch any more, they are powered up/ booted up from the buttons on the back of the frame. He has to figure out a way to get some power to the Hall Sensor in these newer Spyders and on the aftermarket boards of the older Spyders.
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Old 02-04-2009, 08:22 PM #41
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so essentially the hall switch needs two connections to the board, one that connects to where the former micro-switch was, and one that brings in a constant power source. one connection to fire the marker and one to power the switch so it can monitor the hall effect.
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Old 02-05-2009, 04:45 PM #42
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so essentially the hall switch needs two connections to the board, one that connects to where the former micro-switch was, and one that brings in a constant power source. one connection to fire the marker and one to power the switch so it can monitor the hall effect.
Correct. The sensor, unlike a reed switch, requires a constant power source to be able to operate.

After eyeballing the fitment of an ESP Hall FX housing as is in a VS2 frame, I suspect you would run into some difficulties. Even if you were to drill new holes, you would run into issues with the sensor's location with respect to the trigger.

My only advice is to be patient, while I redesign the housing. If you wish to experiment yourself, you're more than welcome to modify an ESP Hall FX kit, but I can't promise anything.
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