[elessar23]

Hi!

I am thinking of building a mq’ed pump. Unfortunately I am not keen at cockers, so maybe you could tell what parts exactly d I need. As far as I am concerned I will need:
Cocker
E frame – e1 or e2, worrblade, or maybe select fire frame is enough?
Mq valve, or mq valve2
Pump kit

And one more question. Is it possible to shoot mq pump like a standard one with autotrigger. In other words do mq pumps have autotrigger ?

Thanks for help!

[uberPHAGE 2]

Benchmark Frame
UTB board
mq valve
pump kit

[Fearless_Leader]

I do not believe there is a E-autotrigger figure out yet, and if there is they don't share very well.

[Terrorfakt]

I would recommend an E2 frame for the MQ2 valve. I heard the E1 doesn't supply enough power to the Mq...? Or am I thinking of the race frame...?

Also, if you can find an un-drilled body for your pump that would be preferable and will help your re-sale. You can use the E-frame and MQ without an eye, simplifying the project and eliminating a few potential problems (I have been through 4 e-cockers and almost always had problems with the eyes). Plus, the pump will look a lot cleaner without the eye on there.

Good luck and that will make a sick pump. I have been considering doing the same thing to my Evo X, but $200 for an E2 frame and $125 for a valve is a bit steep for me for minor improvements in shot stability. Still sick though

[hmcl281]

e1 board works just fine


could u use most of the frame and board out there since it's going to be a pump and only require one solenoid?

[Terrorfakt]

That makes sense, not having the 3-way noid should save on power

[rocky6987]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MVxpp...e=channel_page here is an E-autotrigger

[hmcl281]

Originally Posted by Terrorfakt

That makes sense, not having the 3-way noid should save on power

i do not about the power consumption but most board out there only has one plug for the solenoid

[richie_dee17]

i made an e-autotrigger gun with a kani, and a ccm frame. one thing you will encounter is a lot of trigger bounce and i mean a lot, due to where the micro switch activation point needs to be placed in the firing cycle.

[drgonzo]

Originally Posted by richie_dee17

i made an e-autotrigger gun with a kani, and a ccm frame. one thing you will encounter is a lot of trigger bounce and i mean a lot, due to where the micro switch activation point needs to be placed in the firing cycle.

Depends on the switch and the placement, but in general this is true. I use a fairly large debounce; good thing pumps don't need more than 8bps or so.

[richie_dee17]

in mine i had the activation set to fire about 1/8" from the bolt being all the way forward, and depending on the return spring i used, i would regularly get double and triple shot's per pull, the only way i could over come this was if i were to get a heavy return spring, and that negated the point of the mq2 in my eye's

[elessar23]

Thanks guys for fast replies

To sum up, I am not sure whether I have correctly understood that select fire board should be enough?

Originally Posted by richie_dee17

i made an e-autotrigger gun with a kani, and a ccm frame. one thing you will encounter is a lot of trigger bounce and i mean a lot, due to where the micro switch activation point needs to be placed in the firing cycle.

Do you have any photos of your karni?

[uberPHAGE 2]

I have a question for my pump in sig, its kinda opinion. Should I trade the Benchmark slider in sig with the original grips for a CCM *86 frame?

[drgonzo]

Originally Posted by richie_dee17

in mine i had the activation set to fire about 1/8" from the bolt being all the way forward, and depending on the return spring i used, i would regularly get double and triple shot's per pull, the only way i could over come this was if i were to get a heavy return spring, and that negated the point of the mq2 in my eye's

Wow, that's heinous. I have mine maybe .060 from full forward and was able to dial out the bounce with debounce on the board.

[drgonzo]

Originally Posted by elessar23

Thanks guys for fast replies

To sum up, I am not sure whether I have correctly understood that select fire board should be enough?



Do you have any photos of your karni?

The select fire board *might* be enough. IIRC they are equivalent to a dwell of about 8ms, which is VERY long, so the gun will be inefficient and depending on the setup may or may not be able to meet chrono.

[richie_dee17]

unfortunately i don't have pics of the inside of the frame, or vids of it shooting as i sold the frame to a teammate building his own mq'd karni lol. i did however run into problems with the recharge rate due in part to the wwa pump kit i have on there. (i sold the frame to buy a ccm mini kit, and a mech frame lol) and the mq2 is going into a ego framed cocker project i'm doing

[drgonzo]

WWA mini kits need a good amount of work to be used on mQ guns...

[uberPHAGE 2]

Why didnt you use the electric auto-trigger?

[richie_dee17]

Originally Posted by drgonzo

WWA mini kits need a good amount of work to be used on mQ guns...

i know, at the time, my friend with the lathe didn't have the proper taperd for the chuck he had to mount a drill bit in the tail stock, so i couldn't really bore it out that well. and that was the main reason why i decided to pull the valve. i'm going to see what i can do with a rocket valve, and a ccm heavy slotted hammer now. wish me luck and good efficency, and a mq like shot characteristic

[drgonzo]

I haven't had too much luck with a Rocket valve ... I think the Tornado is still better, and neither approaches the mQ by a long shot.

[drgonzo]

Originally Posted by uberPHAGE 2

Why didnt you use the electric auto-trigger?

Well if you can use a mech auto trigger, might as well use it. I only did the electronic AT because the frame had no provision for AT.