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Old 01-20-2009, 05:18 AM #1
elessar23
 
 
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mq'ed pump

Hi!

I am thinking of building a mqed pump. Unfortunately I am not keen at cockers, so maybe you could tell what parts exactly d I need. As far as I am concerned I will need:
Cocker
E frame e1 or e2, worrblade, or maybe select fire frame is enough?
Mq valve, or mq valve2
Pump kit

And one more question. Is it possible to shoot mq pump like a standard one with autotrigger. In other words do mq pumps have autotrigger ?

Thanks for help!
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Old 01-20-2009, 07:29 AM #2
uberPHAGE 2
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Benchmark Frame
UTB board
mq valve
pump kit
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Old 01-20-2009, 11:05 AM #3
Fearless_Leader
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I do not believe there is a E-autotrigger figure out yet, and if there is they don't share very well.
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Old 01-20-2009, 12:12 PM #4
Terrorfakt
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I would recommend an E2 frame for the MQ2 valve. I heard the E1 doesn't supply enough power to the Mq...? Or am I thinking of the race frame...?

Also, if you can find an un-drilled body for your pump that would be preferable and will help your re-sale. You can use the E-frame and MQ without an eye, simplifying the project and eliminating a few potential problems (I have been through 4 e-cockers and almost always had problems with the eyes). Plus, the pump will look a lot cleaner without the eye on there.

Good luck and that will make a sick pump. I have been considering doing the same thing to my Evo X, but $200 for an E2 frame and $125 for a valve is a bit steep for me for minor improvements in shot stability. Still sick though
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Old 01-20-2009, 01:18 PM #5
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e1 board works just fine


could u use most of the frame and board out there since it's going to be a pump and only require one solenoid?
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Old 01-20-2009, 01:29 PM #6
Terrorfakt
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That makes sense, not having the 3-way noid should save on power
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Old 01-20-2009, 01:40 PM #7
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MVxpp...e=channel_page here is an E-autotrigger
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Old 01-20-2009, 01:47 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terrorfakt View Post
That makes sense, not having the 3-way noid should save on power
i do not about the power consumption but most board out there only has one plug for the solenoid
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Old 01-20-2009, 02:00 PM #9
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i made an e-autotrigger gun with a kani, and a ccm frame. one thing you will encounter is a lot of trigger bounce and i mean a lot, due to where the micro switch activation point needs to be placed in the firing cycle.
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Old 01-20-2009, 02:45 PM #10
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Originally Posted by richie_dee17 View Post
i made an e-autotrigger gun with a kani, and a ccm frame. one thing you will encounter is a lot of trigger bounce and i mean a lot, due to where the micro switch activation point needs to be placed in the firing cycle.
Depends on the switch and the placement, but in general this is true. I use a fairly large debounce; good thing pumps don't need more than 8bps or so.
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Old 01-20-2009, 03:39 PM #11
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in mine i had the activation set to fire about 1/8" from the bolt being all the way forward, and depending on the return spring i used, i would regularly get double and triple shot's per pull, the only way i could over come this was if i were to get a heavy return spring, and that negated the point of the mq2 in my eye's
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Old 01-21-2009, 07:34 AM #12
elessar23
 
 
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Thanks guys for fast replies

To sum up, I am not sure whether I have correctly understood that select fire board should be enough?

Quote:
Originally Posted by richie_dee17 View Post
i made an e-autotrigger gun with a kani, and a ccm frame. one thing you will encounter is a lot of trigger bounce and i mean a lot, due to where the micro switch activation point needs to be placed in the firing cycle.
Do you have any photos of your karni?
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Old 01-21-2009, 05:07 PM #13
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I have a question for my pump in sig, its kinda opinion. Should I trade the Benchmark slider in sig with the original grips for a CCM *86 frame?
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Old 01-22-2009, 11:20 PM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richie_dee17 View Post
in mine i had the activation set to fire about 1/8" from the bolt being all the way forward, and depending on the return spring i used, i would regularly get double and triple shot's per pull, the only way i could over come this was if i were to get a heavy return spring, and that negated the point of the mq2 in my eye's
Wow, that's heinous. I have mine maybe .060 from full forward and was able to dial out the bounce with debounce on the board.
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Old 01-22-2009, 11:21 PM #15
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Originally Posted by elessar23 View Post
Thanks guys for fast replies

To sum up, I am not sure whether I have correctly understood that select fire board should be enough?



Do you have any photos of your karni?
The select fire board *might* be enough. IIRC they are equivalent to a dwell of about 8ms, which is VERY long, so the gun will be inefficient and depending on the setup may or may not be able to meet chrono.
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Old 01-23-2009, 04:49 PM #16
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unfortunately i don't have pics of the inside of the frame, or vids of it shooting as i sold the frame to a teammate building his own mq'd karni lol. i did however run into problems with the recharge rate due in part to the wwa pump kit i have on there. (i sold the frame to buy a ccm mini kit, and a mech frame lol) and the mq2 is going into a ego framed cocker project i'm doing
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Old 01-23-2009, 09:38 PM #17
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WWA mini kits need a good amount of work to be used on mQ guns...
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Old 01-23-2009, 10:12 PM #18
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Why didnt you use the electric auto-trigger?
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Old 01-24-2009, 02:01 AM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drgonzo View Post
WWA mini kits need a good amount of work to be used on mQ guns...
i know, at the time, my friend with the lathe didn't have the proper taperd for the chuck he had to mount a drill bit in the tail stock, so i couldn't really bore it out that well. and that was the main reason why i decided to pull the valve. i'm going to see what i can do with a rocket valve, and a ccm heavy slotted hammer now. wish me luck and good efficency, and a mq like shot characteristic
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Old 01-24-2009, 03:29 AM #20
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I haven't had too much luck with a Rocket valve ... I think the Tornado is still better, and neither approaches the mQ by a long shot.
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Old 01-24-2009, 03:30 AM #21
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Why didnt you use the electric auto-trigger?
Well if you can use a mech auto trigger, might as well use it. I only did the electronic AT because the frame had no provision for AT.
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