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Old 01-03-2012, 03:07 PM #1219
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Originally Posted by ca18nissan View Post
me and my buddys jeep mine is the yellow his is red ill be trading up going to rock krawler suspension and 40s he is going to 42s in the spring
Hope you don't plan on keeping the factory axles.
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Old 01-03-2012, 08:47 PM #1220
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Theres an LJ in my club running 39.5 Iroks on his Rubi44's. I think he's chromo'd in the front but not the rear. Just waiting for a kaboom.

Guy isn't retarded though, snagged a good deal on the tires, and isn't gonna dump any more money into the 44's, building his new axles now.
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Old 01-04-2012, 10:54 PM #1221
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I agree with Imped, If you are SOFT on the go pedal you can probably limit the breakage but you will be replacing ball joints on a regular basis.
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Old 01-04-2012, 10:56 PM #1222
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Imped, Do you plan on keeping your coil springs?
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Old 01-04-2012, 11:23 PM #1223
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I'd say 37's is the max that the Dana 44's can handle.... I'd bump to 60's for anything larger.
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Old 01-05-2012, 07:55 AM #1224
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Originally Posted by addicted2dunes View Post
I'd say 37's is the max that the Dana 44's can handle.... I'd bump to 60's for anything larger.
What D44? TJ Rubi D44s, JK Rubi D44s or 78 F250 HP D44?
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:44 AM #1225
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Non-unit bearing axles: 37's or smaller
Unit bearing axles: 35's or smaller
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Old 01-07-2012, 06:25 PM #1226
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Old 01-09-2012, 06:11 PM #1227
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Parked next to a sibling a while ago. Wanted to see if the difference between us was noticeable. It is, slightly, but definitely needs moar lift!

4.5" coming Spring '12. Cant wait!

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Old 01-16-2012, 01:07 AM #1228
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so i just put a 3 inch suspension lift on my 97 cherokee, if i ever decide to go any higher do i have to drop the transfer case
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Old 01-16-2012, 07:14 AM #1229
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No, there are other means of correcting drive line angles
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Old 01-16-2012, 05:22 PM #1230
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Old 02-02-2012, 01:17 AM #1231
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Ok guys I need some input(imped im callin out to you, lol). So its time for me to get tires in the spring. Im pretty set on getting KM2s, the only problem is idk if I should stick with 33s or bump it up to 35s. Here is my current setup/engine/drivetrain specs:

2000 Wrangler I6 5sp with D30 upfront and Dana44 in the rear with 3.73s
2.5in skyjacker lift currently running 33x12.50r15s.

I would really like to go to 35x12.50r15s but am afraid of running into problems with the drivetrain and rubbing issues. Can anyone feed me some input on what i would possible be running a risk of breaking/ruining if i went up to 35s from 33s? Thanks
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Old 02-02-2012, 03:27 AM #1232
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35's MTR-K
hiline/metal cloak
regear 4.88
currie steering
centric rotors/black magic pads

thats what i'm aimin for....sorta

ETA: I'm on 33's, I6, 5spd, D30/44, Front Spartan Locker, Currie steering
I have 4" lift so I have standard tube fenders, not hi lines. on 2.5 you'd rub
Upgrading steering and brakes are strongly suggested
Regear will boost mpg and vastly improve your "crawl" offroad
Then start thinking tummy tuck
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Last edited by Hobojo : 02-02-2012 at 03:38 AM.
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Old 02-02-2012, 03:35 AM #1233
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Old 02-02-2012, 03:54 AM #1234
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Old 02-02-2012, 08:10 AM #1235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p8ntfreak98 View Post
Ok guys I need some input(imped im callin out to you, lol). So its time for me to get tires in the spring. Im pretty set on getting KM2s, the only problem is idk if I should stick with 33s or bump it up to 35s. Here is my current setup/engine/drivetrain specs:

2000 Wrangler I6 5sp with D30 upfront and Dana44 in the rear with 3.73s
2.5in skyjacker lift currently running 33x12.50r15s.

I would really like to go to 35x12.50r15s but am afraid of running into problems with the drivetrain and rubbing issues. Can anyone feed me some input on what i would possible be running a risk of breaking/ruining if i went up to 35s from 33s? Thanks
Realistically, if you wheel, you should already have some form of upgraded steering, some armor, etc. If you step up to 35's, plan on wheeling it where 35's make a difference, and want a reliable rig then get ready to drop some $$. Steering, brakes, gears, armor at a minimum. As you sit now, you've got an entry level suspension with no adjustability. I'd stick with 33's unless you need 35's. Go grab a ZJ tie rod, some basic armor (steering box skid, oil pan skid), and upgrade from there. You can continue to refine and strengthen the suspension and drivetrain while your'e on 33's and then move up to 35's when you're built for them. Height-wise, you're fine. There's more to running big tires than just fitting them, and there's more to fitting them than height alone. Create clearance, don't just lift it higher.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hobojo View Post
35's MTR-K
hiline/metal cloak
regear 4.88
currie steering
centric rotors/black magic pads

thats what i'm aimin for....sorta

ETA: I'm on 33's, I6, 5spd, D30/44, Front Spartan Locker, Currie steering
I have 4" lift so I have standard tube fenders, not hi lines. on 2.5 you'd rub
Upgrading steering and brakes are strongly suggested
Regear will boost mpg and vastly improve your "crawl" offroad
Then start thinking tummy tuck
Good advice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hobojo View Post
Is it bad that the first thing I noticed was the totally ****ed up drag link and track bar relationship?
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Old 02-02-2012, 08:19 AM #1236
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I love that led light bar, anyone know what brand it is?
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Old 02-02-2012, 09:27 AM #1237
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I love that led light bar, anyone know what brand it is?
Looks like a Vision X bar - http://www.visionxusa.com/LED-Xmitte...c5046 4b76f9f

Only about $2.5K for that bar.

Last edited by addicted2dunes : 02-02-2012 at 09:31 AM.
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:26 AM #1238
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I'm seeing it for about $1360 with mounts.
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:46 AM #1239
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I'm seeing it for about $1360 with mounts.
For the 43"? http://www.visionxwholesale.com/prod...Degree%29.html
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