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Old 12-25-2008, 07:50 PM #22
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Old 12-25-2008, 08:16 PM #23
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enlighten me... i dunno any of this new crap. i dont ever search around for paintball items i just get handed a gun a hoppe rand tank and play. no questions asked lol. So i dunno this lingo... god im so old school im a newb :-P
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Old 12-25-2008, 08:27 PM #24
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Old 12-25-2008, 09:03 PM #25
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i dont like the regulator angled.... besides that whats te dif in these guns... looks like dif pneumatics and stuff... whats the performance difference?
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Old 12-25-2008, 09:11 PM #26
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well fellas tell give me an idea of how much idea have to spend to get a cocker like that. i like the feel of a trixes but i like how cockers shoot. I havent even looked into cockers in years so im out of the loop. If anyone could list a setup and prices of a cocker that they think ide like and will be go with my playing style... i usually play front doritto but sumtimes snake side and im really aggressive. I tend to do alot of wrapping, and moving. Sorry if i sound retarded its just hard to explain with text and i really am out of the loop when it comes to cockers these days. When i played the only electro cocker was a nitro duck i believe and i heard awful things about them. Im sure its evolved alot now. Thanks guys!
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Old 12-25-2008, 09:11 PM #27
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tje BM and jeff or are pretty similar the same, the jeff orr has wgps nice mp4 ram with the bm has the older sto ram.

the sr is completley different, its wgp's newest, has an integrated and hoseless frontblock, and its own tadao board. (not the new yakuza, but they're close). while the frame looks kinda goofy, lots of people say they are the most comfortable thing ever.

oh, and thats not a stock BM frame, its an E2. the bm comes stock with the sf frame. the eblade/worrframe (wgp's take on the eblade, same board, frame just looks a little different) are far superior to the sf.
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Old 12-25-2008, 09:54 PM #28
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personaly id prefer a full bodied e cocker then one of those newer style ones
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Old 12-25-2008, 10:37 PM #29
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If I was going to look for a new cocker that could shoot great right out of the box, I'd go for a Karnivore or a Jeff Orr Limited Edition. The SR is nice, but I'm not a fan of its looks. All of those guns shoot great the way they are. Add an MQ2 valve if you want the pinnacle of smoothness, but they aren't completely necessary. Judging by the way you play, it may be beneficial to go with a midblocked (or halfblocked) cocker like the SR or JOLE. Those styles are the lightest and most compact configurations for cockers. You can modify any full-body cocker into a half or midblock. I just halfblocked mine, and it's very noticably lighter.

Or you can just buy a body and custom pick every part like I did. Overall, it can get expensive, but I still don't have as much money into mine as I would have to pay for an Ego9 or something. (And it shoots better. )
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Old 12-26-2008, 11:07 AM #30
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If someone had the resources to make streamline and simplify the parts on a cocker. (feedneck and frontblock) And have it MQd it would become great.

Jack Wood also said after the Ego that they knew how to improve on the cocker, but chose not to.
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Old 12-26-2008, 11:27 AM #31
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If someone had the resources to make streamline and simplify the parts on a cocker.

The SR took care of both those. Ego feedneck, integrated and enclosed front pnuematics. Add to it the most comforatable (albeit ugly) frame, the easiest to use board on a stock marker, and the lightest stock cocker to date makes the SR meet everything you just stated.

Add an MQ2 for $125 and for $525 (assuming you paid msrp on both marker and MQ2) you've got an amazing marker in your hands.
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Old 12-26-2008, 01:07 PM #32
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the sr has a very nice board too. it is highly adjustable for bps, it was said the board was programmed for wgp by tadeo (spelling)
I have one and it ripps, I have not tested the lpr for keeping up with cycling at extremely low psi when using an mq, just have not had a chance to install it. and the problem with the sr front end is if you want to "upgrade" parts.
and the ugly gray stripe in the grips. lol.
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Old 12-27-2008, 12:53 AM #33
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With the amount of abuse I do to my gun in just 5 man, I don't think it would last a match in xball lol.
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Old 12-27-2008, 01:23 AM #34
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With the amount of abuse I do to my gun in just 5 man, I don't think it would last a match in xball lol.
Unless you're throwing your gun to the 50 before you run there I don't see a problem...
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Old 12-27-2008, 03:03 AM #35
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i always liekd the way a cocker shot... but i didnt know if it could do what i stated earlier... run and gun etc...


u all explained it could... now the problem is as follows

i can get a dm/pm used for cheap that i know i can shoot fools with and i know i can fix if it goes down rather quick..... now for a bad *** cocker ...can i get one for around the same price 250-350? also the maintaing it....if it goes down im gonna be blown away. it wont be fixed during that event lol

if im wrong please tell me... explain
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Old 12-27-2008, 03:55 AM #36
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why dont you think you wont be able to run and gun with one? its just like any other electro..

and on maintenance.....well.....i think a good way to explain it is: once everything is set properly, like all the parts are assembled the way they should be, reliability isnt an issue. if you buy one new, everything will be set where it needs to be from the factory, and you shouldnt ever have to take anything apart to fix. just pull a pin to take out the bolt and wipe everything down. in the 2 years ive had my karni, the most ive ever had to do was take the frame off to clean out some gunked up paint. and thats nothing special, just remove 2 screws and unplug everything.


soo...as long as everythings assembled properly, maintenance shouldnt be an issue unless you actually break something off, which is pretty damn hard to do.
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Old 12-27-2008, 04:51 PM #37
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I think it's a lot more likely that a DM would go "down" way before an E-Cocker would. And that's my experience on the field - I see a lot of spool-valve guns going down (I don't really know what their problem is), and my gun just rips all day long without any issues.

In the end, I think it has a lot more to do with the owner's knowledge of their gun, and their mechanical aptitude.

The only major problem I've ever had with my E-cocker was the cocking solenoid leaking because as an E-cocker noob, I installed a defective lpr which let over 300psi go to the noid, and blew the gasket out of place. I simply took out the manual, flipped to the page about solenoid rebuilding, and did what it said. That was 3 years ago, and I have not had another problem.

I have not even had so much as a barrel break or chop since I installed my MQ valve last Feb...
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Old 12-27-2008, 08:09 PM #38
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I think the SR has everything you'd want stock, add a 11/16ths MQ2 if you think you need it and it's got all the features and performance we've ever asked for from cockers. As far as the frame and the angled reg, it's comfier than you'd think...
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Old 12-27-2008, 08:26 PM #39
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I have both the older style cockers like orracles and some later version Eclipse cockers, and the newer style Blackouts and Jeff orrs, and i feel the older style cockers were better...

the newer version cockers arent bad, but I feel the older ones were better....when you use the backblock, I feel it affects something...the way the marker is setup is a little different, and I feel it takes away from the reliability of the marker...it might be just me, but I feel backblocks are the way to go with cockers...

The Orracle is probably my favorite autocoker that is readily available on ebay and sometimes can still even be found new...an Eclipse would be my main pruchase, but theyre going ot be more money...an orracle is simple with great springs, and can be upped accordingly...

I say pick up an orracle, full body or even mini if you lile, and enjoy it...
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Old 12-28-2008, 11:42 AM #40
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I have both the older style cockers like orracles and some later version Eclipse cockers, and the newer style Blackouts and Jeff orrs, and i feel the older style cockers were better...

the newer version cockers arent bad, but I feel the older ones were better....when you use the backblock, I feel it affects something...the way the marker is setup is a little different, and I feel it takes away from the reliability of the marker...it might be just me, but I feel backblocks are the way to go with cockers...

The Orracle is probably my favorite autocoker that is readily available on ebay and sometimes can still even be found new...an Eclipse would be my main pruchase, but theyre going ot be more money...an orracle is simple with great springs, and can be upped accordingly...

I say pick up an orracle, full body or even mini if you lile, and enjoy it...
I think I've also noticed what you're talking about. I think it has a lot to do with a full-bodied cocker, well, being full-bodied. It's heavier, therefore it can eliminate more kick, and maybe provide a more stable shooting platform.

I recently halfblocked mine, and was surprised to find that my reciprocating mass only went down by about 1/16th of an ounce. My Slik bolt and backblock are actually lighter than my halfblock bolt and sled, but the weight savings that made the slight difference was the reduced pump arm length.

So now I have a considerably lighter body, but only a marginally lighter reciprocating mass. The gun now seems like it has slightly more kick than it used to. Which is not necessarily a bad thing, considering I wanted my gun to be as light as possible - and it still shoots amazingly well...
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Old 12-28-2008, 09:54 PM #41
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I dont know about you guys, but i at times used cockers at 15bps in xball matches. why does slowing it to 10 change anything?
The only issue i ever had was the bps machines.....
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Old 12-29-2008, 08:20 AM #42
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ok i think ive figured out what i want... my dream cocker. Sumone give me an idea of how much itll cost plz. I like the SR body but hate the way the reg is angled out, hate the grip frame and the feedneck. So how much would it cost for me to put an etek/ego grip frame (i heard one of those work....if im wrong tell me) change the feedneck to one similar to a DM's clamping feedneck(the one on the sr looks huge!) and place the regular startight up n down instead of angled? Any chance theres a few used/modded like this out there for sale?
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