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Old 12-18-2008, 02:53 PM #1
Geogak
 
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: New Jersey
Autococker membrane pad problems

I am new here, just signed up today. I have been playing paintball for about a year or so, but I have little to no experience, only played about 10 games. I like paintball very much but I always have work. So to the problem, I have an autococker superstock that I bought used. It worked fine and I was very happy with it, played 3 games with it so far. Well I was gonna play last Sunday so I went to make sure the marker was ok to go on Friday. When I went to turn it on nothing. So I started examining it. I have a firm concept on the mechanics of most things and i can absorb much by simply looking at it. I whiped out my Volt/ohm meter and started checking stuff starting with the battery. I replaced it anyway and moved on to the switch or membrane pad. I found out that when i pushed the button none of the pins had continuity so i removed the board and then the membrane pad. I saw that it was broken so I ordered another one. It came fast and I installed it. Nothing the new one was broke. So I ordered another one again. This one I examined before I installed it. It also was broken. But I installed it anyway to see if it would work, nothing. Mind you the whole time I was waiting for it I was able to get the marker to work by manually jumping the pins with a paper clip. So I know its the membrane pad for sure. So I have totally given up on getting another membrane pad to work. I can just install a button inside the trigger frame and use a tri color LED to work like the stock one. But I can't figure out what led to use. I have tried a few, but I can't get any to work. I used my voltmeter on the peak setting to measure the peak voltage between the pins to power the led, its 4.9v. But it falls right to about 2.1v. I am not to savvy with electronics. I have a basic concept. I found that most leds work at around 2v. Anyone ever try to get their own led to work in a similar situation. Thanks in advanced.
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Old 12-18-2008, 03:07 PM #2
WillIbe
 
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
you may get more help in the autococker, or even in the electronic gun forums, this isnt really a noobish question. i added a blue LED to my old 12V revvy, but that's aboutt it.
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Old 12-18-2008, 06:50 PM #3
Rebel_816
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1. you are already better at working on guns that half the people in the newbie section, and smarter.

2. come on over to the e-cocker forums, i can assure you we will get you fixed up over there.

or-

3. get rid of the S/F frame, its garbage compared to the eblade frames for cockers.
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Old 12-18-2008, 10:04 PM #4
Geogak
 
 
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Ok I started looking around for an Eblade. I only play recreationaly but I plan on playing more often then I used to.

Now I found a couple places that sell the Eblade and also there are 2 version E1 E2, I am also still going through the BST forums here. I don't mind putting money out for something I am gonna use, but I don't wanna get ripped off. Basicly what is the going price.
Also is this a real E-blade and does it look like it has all the parts I will need. I have the Solenoid and the Eye from the SF frame, but I don't know if they will work with the E-blade.

Links to pictures of it

http://i23.ebayimg.com/07/i/001/1f/d1/b4aa_1.JPG

http://i20.ebayimg.com/04/i/001/1f/d1/e7f4_1.JPG

http://i22.ebayimg.com/03/i/001/1f/d1/ee3e_1.JPG


Another one

http://i15.ebayimg.com/02/i/001/25/85/98b6_1.JPG

http://i22.ebayimg.com/06/i/001/25/85/a514_1.JPG

http://i12.ebayimg.com/01/i/001/25/85/a6d2_1.JPG

They are online auctions but I didn't post the link to the auction to stay in compliance with the rules. What can I use to tell if its an e1 e2. The red framed one looks like its really and E2 but I don't know what I am looking at to be truthful.

Last edited by Geogak : 12-18-2008 at 10:49 PM.
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Old 12-18-2008, 10:48 PM #5
WGPFriek
 
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
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yes this is real eblade...it is an E2, the more desirable one. E2's pretty much better than E1 in every way. The eye from your SF frame will work with the E2 so dont worry about evan changing it. Your cocking solenoid will work with the E2 as well. The solenoid is the same, the only thing that changes is with an E2 solenoid cover the bottom of it is enclosed as well, helps keep the noid clean...a definite plus. If you wanted the minimum amount of work all you need to do is change out the grip frame...your eye, eye cover, cocking solenoid will all work. And YES the E2 will be like night and day compared to your SF frame. You can read up more on the E2 as far as capabilities. Allows "tuning" of firing cycle of the gun. Or you can just leave it on a setting like fast or medium setting and go play. would definitely recommend you pick one up. AS far as price I payed 300 for my first E2 about 2 years ago, and now that the tadao has come out I dont know the going price....I would pay that price for that E2...but thats just me.

theyre both E2's

Last edited by WGPFriek : 12-18-2008 at 10:52 PM.
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Old 12-18-2008, 11:07 PM #6
Rebel_816
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a full eblade setup goes for about $250..that includes noid and eye..luckily for you, you just need the frame and board...so thats more around $150...

the e1 and e2 frames are pretty simlilar, its the boards that make the difference. the e2 frame has a nicer trigger, and the screen on the back is a little bigger.

theres also the worrblade frame, which is wgp's version of the eblade frame, it takes e1 triggers.

the e1, e2, and worrblade, and cheap sf frame all use the same eye/noid.

and all but the sf frame can accept the e1, e2/zero-b/ and tadao boards.

for more info check out www.moodypb.com
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Old 12-18-2008, 11:12 PM #7
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yes moodypb.com is very helpful...good call rebel
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Old 12-18-2008, 11:49 PM #8
Geogak
 
 
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Cool Thanks. I am gonna try and get an E-blade now. moodypb.com looks very helpfull too.

the low pressure hose they sell at moodypb.com is the hose that goes between the solenoid and the ram actuator? Cause if I get a Eblade with a new solenoid i am probably gonna change it. And I think the hoses on it now might break when I take them off the solenoid. My marker gets hit most times not me, so I would want the fully closed in solenoid to help me out when I clean the marker, paint is very hard to get out of the one i have now.

Stacking another question on here.

My marker is missing the beaver tail, I never worried about it but moodypb says its an anti-cheating device. They don't explain that. I thought it was so you don't get hit by the back block. how is it an anti-cheating device?

Last edited by Geogak : 12-19-2008 at 12:26 AM.
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Old 12-19-2008, 12:18 AM #9
Rebel_816
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i just use a q-tip to get in there and clean it out, its really not that big a deal, but its a nice feature.

the hosing for the pneu's is just standard LP hosing, moody has what you need.

and technically..the "ram actuator" would be the solenoid..the lpr gives air to the noid, which switches the flow to the ram.
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Old 12-19-2008, 12:34 AM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebel_816 View Post
i just use a q-tip to get in there and clean it out, its really not that big a deal, but its a nice feature.

the hosing for the pneu's is just standard LP hosing, moody has what you need.

and technically..the "ram actuator" would be the solenoid..the lpr gives air to the noid, which switches the flow to the ram.
Ok cool So the thing with the shiny rod connected to the the back block is called a ram. The shinny rod a... possibly a Ram rod? and the 3way valve is what controls the ram. but if its electronic its called a solenoid? Do I got my terms straight. Just wanna be on the same page as everyone else,

Sorry about all the dumb questions. I look around for the answers usually but forums are way faster. I am getting a PDF of the manual now.

Last edited by Geogak : 12-19-2008 at 12:37 AM.
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Old 12-19-2008, 12:55 AM #11
Rebel_816
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the arm that runs from the ram to the back block is called the pump arm. otherwise your right. just read through moody and it explains all the parts.

the rod sticking out the back of the bottom tube, that the back block pulls back to cock the gun is called the "cocking rod".

and yes, the 3 way is what activates the ram, on an electronic cocker, its just replaced with the solenoid.
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Old 12-19-2008, 01:04 AM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geogak View Post
Cool Thanks. I am gonna try and get an E-blade now. moodypb.com looks very helpfull too.

the low pressure hose they sell at moodypb.com is the hose that goes between the solenoid and the ram actuator? Cause if I get a Eblade with a new solenoid i am probably gonna change it. And I think the hoses on it now might break when I take them off the solenoid. My marker gets hit most times not me, so I would want the fully closed in solenoid to help me out when I clean the marker, paint is very hard to get out of the one i have now.

Stacking another question on here.

My marker is missing the beaver tail, I never worried about it but moodypb says its an anti-cheating device. They don't explain that. I thought it was so you don't get hit by the back block. how is it an anti-cheating device?
Never heard a beaver tail called that before. You are right it is used to keep the backblock from smacking into your face/mask.

The only reason it might be called an anti-cheating device is because some beavertails might block you from screwing in the IVG which controls the velocity.
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Old 12-19-2008, 01:14 AM #13
Rebel_816
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its called an anti-cheating device because you can "thumb" or "iron palm" the cocking rod, putting extra pressure on the hammer, which increases the velocity by quite a bit.

the beavertail is there to make it less easy/obvious...not many people know about that anymore, i got lucky and read it somewhere .
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Old 12-19-2008, 10:35 AM #14
Geogak
 
 
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not wanting to be defeated by a mere collection of plastic solder and silicon, I went and continued my quest to solve the led problem. Well it turns out that was putting the LED in backwards, a very stupid mistake So I turned it around and it works fine now. I bought a tri color led that lights up red green and blue. But I can't use all the colors, because the anode is the common pin and the board uses + pulses to drive the led. So I would need a bunch of transistors and stuff, and its too complicated for me to make that led work. The easy way out is to buy 2 leds and you can make their cathode common. I didn't feel like going back to radishack right now so I just finished it up with 1 led, i can add the other later. Ok enough with the chit chat Time for the pictures.

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m...u/DSC_0222.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m...u/DSC_0223.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m...u/DSC_0224.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m...u/DSC_0227.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m...u/DSC_0228.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m...u/DSC_0229.jpg

As you can see The button is inside the frame so I drilled a hole in my grip to access the button. well it turns out I missed and I don't want the grip looking like swiss cheese so I just use that bent paper clip. My original idea was to have it it big enough So I could just use the cocking rod to turn the gun on. But I was afraid that repetitive removal and replacement of the cocking rod would somehow wear it faster of make the marker miss timed.
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Old 12-19-2008, 02:15 PM #15
Geogak
 
 
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I found an E-frame with 37,500 shots on it, sounds a bit much and its on an auction. Is there anything to worry about or should i still go for it. bid is like 105 right now.
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Old 12-19-2008, 02:33 PM #16
Rebel_816
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what kind is it?
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Old 12-19-2008, 02:34 PM #17
Geogak
 
 
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an e2 planet eclipse with the version 1.10 I said e-frame by accident meant to say e-blade
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Old 12-23-2008, 03:14 PM #18
merc4hire
 
 
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I was basically about to ask just the same question. I have a loaner cocker with select fire. I hate the membrane switch immensely and have replaced only to have the new one work breifly, and never has either switch displayed the colors the manual said they would. I don't wan't to spend a bunch of money on my gun that I loan out, I just want a button that you can tell when the circuit is closed, whether it is on,and what mode the thing is in. Can you say which pins do what, and what led's I should buy to do the same thing?
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Old 12-24-2008, 01:00 PM #19
Geogak
 
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: New Jersey
You need 2 leds from radio shack and one tact switch. There are Four pins on the manifold, you can go to a computer store like microcenter or even radioshack might have it, and buy the manifold connect for a computer that connects to the motherboard for like USB and stuff like that. Not sure what they call it. looking at the board you have the four pins, The first pin (leftmost) is the ground, second pin is the positive trigger for the eye on or orange led, third pin is for the eye off or red led, and fourth pin is switch signal. So you connect you swithc between pins 1 and 4, connect your eye on led (green is best, you can see the leds through the grips so don't worry about fitting them externally) to pins 1 and 2, connect Eye off led to pins 1 and 3. A standard 2.2 V led works make sure you have the polarity right.
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Old 12-24-2008, 01:38 PM #20
Geogak
 
 
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Ok time for my Problem now, I bought the Eblade and installed it. Now i turned it on and pulled the trigger only the noid clicked not the sear. So I pulled the trigger again. Nothing. I added air and the marker recocks but doesnt fire, so I laid into the trigger with a bunch of rapid strokes. Finnaly after the seventh or eight stroke it started firing. I then though "Ohh the eye doesn't see paint duh..." So i turned the eye off nothing. Now Even when firing rapidly it doesn't always release the sear. with or without air. Now I havent tried it with paint cause its illegal to fire a marker in NJ if you arent on a propper field. And I am in a pretty dense area of clifton. I could let a few balls fly but if I get caught They are gonna confiscate my marker for sure. And I will probably get caught. Since I havent let paint fired paint through it IDK if thats the problem and what I am experiencing is normal. Just need some help on this ASAP.
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Old 12-27-2008, 04:43 AM #21
AmazingBilldo
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make sure the clapper(sear tripper) noid in the grip isnt gummed up. they do like a little bit of oil (i mean very little). and, again, make sure the battery is brand spanking new. E-frames love batteries. if it still doesnt work i am sure some one that has mq'd their cocker would have a sear noid to sell

Last edited by AmazingBilldo : 12-27-2008 at 04:49 AM.
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