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Old 03-20-2016, 10:43 PM #1
Opteron-O3
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My best Spyder build

The point of this project is simple. Find the best parts made for Spyder and Spyder clones and combine them into making the best looking and best performing Spyder. This is what I came up with. Although this is just a short dry fire video (no paint available), paint and a full break down will come soon. I've owned many guns in my 14 years of playing. But this has to be the smoothest blowback I have ever shot. Compared to an SL66 I used to own (Keep in mind for you haters out there. I never once said this gun is better than the SL66, but it sure feels close to it when shooting it). I will be testing this gun and it's limits. I'm still not done modifying. I'm still trying to squeeze more performance out of it. So more to come!!!

If you are curious in knowing. This is my main gun









Added this new video


Specs

Rex R2 Body
VS2 Balanced Valve and VS2 Striker
Evil 2k2 Intimidator Delrin Bolt
AKA Sidewinder (~~200psi @ 280fps)
Stock Rex Board (Good for now, I have T-board not installed)
Bounce-beam Eyes (Impressed with how well it works)
Empire 3 Piece Barrel
Rex High Flow Vertical Adapter
Light Rex Valve Spring (Really Light) and Light (Modified) Main Spring
CP On/Off ASA

Last edited by Opteron-O3 : 03-23-2016 at 09:28 PM.
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Old 03-21-2016, 04:46 PM #2
fernando8877
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Nice build. Are you going to get it anno'd or hydro dipped? To give some flash.

I'm working on a 1st gen Fenix myself. But might try to get an AMG in the near future.
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Old 03-21-2016, 04:59 PM #3
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I've debated on getting acid wash. Blue and black. I don't remember where I saw it. There might be on in the Spyder Picture Thread. I'll try and see if it's still there.

I would love to get my hands on an AMG. But this Dragun styled body really got me hooked. It reminds me of the Dragon Intimidator series.

What are you doing to your Fenix?
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Old 03-21-2016, 06:31 PM #4
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Well, at the moment it needs a new coil. Went out yesterday at the field. Currently, just getting started since it was a throw in on a deal I made.
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Old 03-22-2016, 12:06 AM #5
Zepulkinator
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Those VS2 valves are where it's at. I put one in a Spyder RS (basically a VS2, but with a more standard on/off). I know what you mean when you say it shoots like an older Ego.
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Old 03-22-2016, 10:05 AM #6
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So which is better, a Magnasport Valve or the VS Valve? Right now, I'm gathering info on which mods work best. I've found the Magnasport for $6 online. The only real upgrade so far is a delrin bolt, Ion feedneck adapter, ASA block adapter and new Dye sticky grips.

The block adapter and grips I bought in bulk. If you guys need any, let me know.
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Old 03-22-2016, 10:16 AM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zepulkinator View Post
Those VS2 valves are where it's at. I put one in a Spyder RS (basically a VS2, but with a more standard on/off). I know what you mean when you say it shoots like an older Ego.
I really liked the Spyder RS. They were better than the VS2 bodies. I was planning on buying another ego. But I might wait a little bit now

Quote:
Originally Posted by fernando8877 View Post
So which is better, a Magnasport Valve or the VS Valve? Right now, I'm gathering info on which mods work best. I've found the Magnasport for $6 online.
I have both. Magnaport Valve is a good valve. Definitely a good choice for low pressure. However, if you plan on using the VS Valve. You WILL have to modify the body to accept it. If you're planning on using an old body style spyder. You will have to remove the valve pin and find a way to cover those holes. If you look at picture number 4 (4th from the top). You will notice there is a set screw (there is one on the other side also). This was the best and easiest approach without having to permanently seal it with epoxy. That way if I ever wanted to convert back to using the normal valves I would just use a longer screw to act as the previous valve pin.
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Old 03-22-2016, 12:51 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Opteron-O3 View Post
I have both. Magnaport Valve is a good valve. Definitely a good choice for low pressure. However, if you plan on using the VS Valve. You WILL have to modify the body to accept it. If you're planning on using an old body style spyder. You will have to remove the valve pin and find a way to cover those holes. If you look at picture number 4 (4th from the top). You will notice there is a set screw (there is one on the other side also). This was the best and easiest approach without having to permanently seal it with epoxy. That way if I ever wanted to convert back to using the normal valves I would just use a longer screw to act as the previous valve pin.
Thanks for the help. Right now, I dont have the tools to use for the VS valve mod. So, I'll go with the Magnaport for now and see. I noticed I was calling it Magnasport (I'm a car guy), instead of Magnaport.
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Old 03-22-2016, 03:27 PM #9
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Haha no worries dude. If you need help with the body. I have the tools to tap the body if you need help.

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Old 03-22-2016, 07:51 PM #10
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Nice build. Soon I'll be working on something similar, but using a different, older balanced valve. Managed to snag a few Neo Power valves. Darn things weren't threaded right, and the die I needed to fix them just came in.
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Old 03-22-2016, 09:51 PM #11
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I've heard so much about those Neo Power Valves but I know so little about them. What are the exactly? I've heard they only work in certain spyders.

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Old 03-22-2016, 10:30 PM #12
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They're an adjustable balanced valve, very similar to the Azodin Zero valve, and balanced valves in the JT Impulse, with a very long cup seal shaft that goes into a sealed LPC housing with an adjustable valve spring. The Neo Power Valve was first though, and at the time nobody knew what to do with the darn things.

They're made for full bodied spyders, which don't have a front block or built in vertical ASA. I have a few of those bodies, but I really want to try and adapt it to a compact style body.
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Old 03-22-2016, 10:49 PM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fubarius View Post
They're an adjustable balanced valve, very similar to the Azodin Zero valve, and balanced valves in the JT Impulse, with a very long cup seal shaft that goes into a sealed LPC housing with an adjustable valve spring. The Neo Power Valve was first though, and at the time nobody knew what to do with the darn things.

They're made for full bodied spyders, which don't have a front block or built in vertical ASA. I have a few of those bodies, but I really want to try and adapt it to a compact style body.
Interesting. I can see it working with the Dragun/Rex front blocks. These are probably the most gutted front blocks I have seen. Of course this can easily be done by gutting out a stock spyder front block. But I'm assuming the distance will be greater from the LPC to the front of the valve on a compact styled body as opposed to the full bodied spyder?
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Old 03-23-2016, 04:00 PM #14
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Quote:
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Haha no worries dude. If you need help with the body. I have the tools to tap the body if you need help.

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Sounds good. Have a question about something I saw online. Would a Evil Front ASA with Gauge and Evil Low Pressure Regulator work? I'm sure with modding. But you cant really argue with a $20 upgrade.
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Old 03-23-2016, 07:42 PM #15
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Do you have pictures of said Evil front block? If its what I think it is. It'll only work if you did a Timmy conversion.

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Old 03-23-2016, 09:28 PM #16
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Old 03-24-2016, 02:44 PM #17
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Hey so I'm bored and looking to work on my old spyders . I have a spyder pilot acs 05 model with : cp lpr (this was back then when I didn't know the rules of high and low pressure systems lol) I have cp on off asa and that's pretty much it. I was thinking in copying your Rex r2 build somehow. What parts can I use on my sypder to make it similar to your build ? I was sceptical about the tapping issue on the frame. Please help thanks
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Old 03-24-2016, 03:20 PM #18
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You're pretty much there already. You would just have to do a few modifications. I would recommend getting a spyder low pressure valve if you don't want to modify the body. However if you did want to get the balanced valve like mine. You would have to tap the body to cover the valve pin holes. Since the balanced valve is longer than your typical spyder valve. You would have to remove the valve pin stop and cover the valve pin holes. I went the set screw path because I wanted to have the freedom to convert my Spyder back to it's original state whenever I wanted to.

I went to ebay and found the parts for you.

Spyder VS2 Balanced Valve

Spyder VS2 Striker

I would hurry and purchase these if this is the route you wish to go. They are rare to find and only 1 valve left. There are about 5 strikers left. Once they are gone, they will be even harder to find. Especially replacement parts.

If you do go the balanced valve route I would be happy to help out with any trouble shooting.
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Old 03-24-2016, 03:23 PM #19
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Yeah I was looking at those two, so for sure I need to tap it if I use the spyder pilot 05 Frame right ?
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Old 03-24-2016, 03:26 PM #20
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Oh and sorry to post again, put which is the spyder low pressure valve that doesn't require me to mod he body. I want to see the routes I got. And I'll post picture when I get home of way I'm working with. I'm sure we can get those figured out. Thanks a lot mate
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Old 03-24-2016, 04:11 PM #21
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Are you using the stock front block on your R2 or is it a different one?

Never mind the question about the Evil front block. Did a bit of research on it and they are crappy parts.
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