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Old 11-12-2008, 04:21 PM #1
Cegasaturn
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Cheap Man's Tutorial on Mounting UL Frame with Thin Tray and Installing UL Board

Hello AKA Forum!
I recently recieved a 2003 AKA Highlander Viking in a trade. I've wanted a Highlander for... two years now, so I was very excited to get it. However, it had a WAS board in it, and it wasn't the greatest thing. So, I decided to put on a UL frame I had from another project. I also made a thin tray for it, because why not? I thought that some of you might appreciate a tutorial on how to do this, so I took pictures during the process. I did this all in one day, in about an hour, and it only took that long because I'm abysmal at soldering. But, enough talk, here's my tutorial. In total I spent $45 to do this (the cost of the UL frame and board I bought off someone on PBN)(I borrowed grips from my friend, hence the red), so it's not only easy but affordable!


Stuff you'll need to do this mod:
-Viking
-UL Frame
-UL Board
-Soldering Iron
-Dye Eyes
-One JST Plug (this can be found in many markers- I took one from a spare Cyborg eye)
-Piece of material (can be metal or lexan, whatever you choose)
-Drill
-Hacksaw
-Solder
-Wire strippers
-Time


Step One: Make a Tray
So, I did not take individual steps of me doing this, but it's pretty straightforward. Take your material (I used 1/8" aluminum), and cut it into a rectangle the size of the top of the original tray. You will then have to drill two holes, in the same position as on the tray. Use the tray as a guide, it shouldn't be difficult at all. Then, drill two holes nearer to the center, so that you can fit inside a hacksaw blade and cut an inner slot for wires (I used a mill for this, but this will work too. You can also just drill a hole for this, but I think slots look cooler). And yes, I drilled an extra hole in that piece. But it's hidden, so nobody will know




Step 2: Make sure your Tray Fits
Yay, it works!




Step 4: Drill the UL Frame
Take the same drill you used to drill the holes in the tray, and drill a hole in the UL frame so that the front hole and the hole you drilled line up with the tray.




Step 5: Get all your Electronic Stuff Ready (That means turn on the soldering iron)
Cringe. Nobody likes doing electronics.




Step 6: Prepare JST Plug
So, here I cut the wire for my Cyborg eye in half, and stripped the wire going to the JST plug. We will solder this directly to the solenoid wires. Yes, you could go out and buy the DC wire, but that costs MONEY.




Step 6: Cut and Strip the Solenoid Wire
So, cut the solenoid wires, and strip them. Are you ready for some soldering?!



Step 7: Solder JST Plug to Solenoid Wires
Gah, nobody likes soldering! Anyways, solder the two wires together. I don't know if your Viking has the same black and green wires, if they do, solder as I did. If not, just try connecting the wires one way and test to see if the solenoid cycles. If it does, solder it as it is. If not, solder it the opposite way.




Step 8: Cut and Resolder Dye Eyes
So, for my Viking, the eyes go through a hole way too small to take them out of. I could very easily have cut out the hole so that I could just slide the wires in and out no problem, but that would lower resale . So, I cut the stock eyes to get them out, cut the Dye eyes, put them into position, and re-soldered. Major pain, but hey, didn't take that long.




Step 9: Make sure you wires all come out without risk of getting cut.
Just make sure your slot/hole allows the wires to come out and not risk getting cut by sharp edges.




Step 10: Plug Everything in, make sure it all works
One thing to change on the board settings. Set the dwell to 14 to start. I don't how Dye has their UL boards set (as in, 10 on the settings probably doesn't equal 10 milliseconds), but 10 didn't allow a full cycle, and 14 did. So try 14, and go from there.



Step 11: Go play with it. Or post pictures of it teh_iNtarWeBZ.

And, in case you want proof of it working, a quick video I made:


Video of it shooting in PSP Uncapped!






LASTLY
Welcome me to the AKA forum! I finally got a Viking, and it's awesome! Some pictures with and without the UL frame:




Last edited by Cegasaturn : 11-17-2008 at 04:48 PM.
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Old 11-12-2008, 04:28 PM #2
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Why God why, change it back, that poor thing!
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Old 11-12-2008, 04:32 PM #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cegasaturn View Post
it had a WAS board in it, and it wasn't the greatest thing. So, I decided to put on a UL frame I had from another project.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garbageman705 View Post
Why God why, change it back, that poor thing!
Wanted more board settings. Plus, it was easy to do, and I had the UL frame just lying around. The gun's shorter now, and I find the frame comfy. And aesthetically... well, I'll live
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Old 11-12-2008, 05:15 PM #4
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nice tutorial! shame what you did to that highlander though...
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Old 11-12-2008, 05:17 PM #5
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Tis entirely reversible.
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Old 11-12-2008, 05:19 PM #6
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*change it back*

lol nice work though, get the tray and frame annodized and you're all set
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Old 11-12-2008, 05:23 PM #7
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Tell me you didnt put scotch tape on the bare wires
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Old 11-12-2008, 05:28 PM #8
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Tell me you didnt put scotch tape on the bare wires
lol.
Nope. There's something under the Scotch tape.
But replaced all that with some electrical tape the next day.
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Old 11-12-2008, 05:33 PM #9
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lol.
Nope. There's something under the Scotch tape.
But replaced all that with some electrical tape the next day.
A little late now that you soldered the wires together but in the future, you should use nothing less than shrink tubing.

Oh and next time, preheat the leads before applying the solder, you will bet better adhesion and less of a glob.
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Old 11-12-2008, 05:35 PM #10
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A little late now that you soldered the wires together but in the future, you should use nothing less than shrink tubing.
See, the point of this was to use what I had. And I don't have shrink tubing. I've wired things before, and electrical tape has always worked fine. Though heat-shrink is cleaner, I'll admit.
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Old 11-13-2008, 12:57 AM #11
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Have you had time to play with the settings much? More specifically dwell at 14 "shoots" but is it efficient and work well? Have you fine tuned it recently?
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Old 11-13-2008, 04:49 AM #12
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Props to you for documenting the whole process. I may try this out this winter and you are right..it's totally reversible.
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Old 11-13-2008, 06:20 AM #13
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Have you had time to play with the settings much? More specifically dwell at 14 "shoots" but is it efficient and work well? Have you fine tuned it recently?
It works well. Is it less efficient? I'm not sure, I haven't put a case through it. And all I did was change the dwell and turn off the ABS, aside from that I kept the settings the Viking was using with the WAS board.


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Props to you for documenting the whole process. I may try this out this winter and you are right..it's totally reversible.
Danke. And yeah, I wouldn't have done it if I had to hurt the Viking
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Old 11-13-2008, 10:41 AM #14
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Did you have WAS 1.6? If you upgrade to WAS 2.0 programming it has all the modes that the UL board does.

It looks clean, not trying to be a stick in the mud.
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Old 11-13-2008, 01:58 PM #15
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Round those corners down!

Nice work though
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Old 11-13-2008, 02:33 PM #16
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Old 11-13-2008, 02:47 PM #17
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I dislike the UL frame but you did a good job with it. A lot simpler than I had thought. And I can't stay mad with a gun like that Welcome to the fam
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Old 11-13-2008, 02:53 PM #18
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Personally I cant stand the UL frame craze. But I will admit that it goes really well with the lines of the HL (unlike most AKA's). Very cool, and WELCOME!
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Old 11-13-2008, 05:18 PM #19
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Originally Posted by Garbageman705 View Post
Did you have WAS 1.6? If you upgrade to WAS 2.0 programming it has all the modes that the UL board does.

It looks clean, not trying to be a stick in the mud.
Twas 1.6, I believe. But I like the UL frame as well. And I wanted it for the next day.


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Originally Posted by Wenuliveudie View Post
Round those corners down!

Nice work though
Meh. If I get it anodized, I'll make it look pretty. For now, it works.


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Finish up and pay 25ish for matching anno
I might. We shall see...


Quote:
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I dislike the UL frame but you did a good job with it. A lot simpler than I had thought. And I can't stay mad with a gun like
that Welcome to the fam
Thanks


Quote:
Originally Posted by Warwitch View Post
Personally I cant stand the UL frame craze. But I will admit that it goes really well with the lines of the HL (unlike most AKA's). Very cool, and WELCOME!
Thank you.
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Old 11-17-2008, 04:50 PM #20
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Posted a video of it shooting paint.
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Old 11-17-2008, 05:14 PM #21
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Nice!
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