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Old 10-09-2008, 10:15 PM #1
meMYSELFnI
 
 
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DP O-Ring Leak Thread

Dangerous Power Markers – Leak Basic Troubleshooting

Threshold/G3 Breakdown Thread
Fusion/F8 Breakdown Thread

There are a lot of reasons why DP markers will have leaks. Most are user error and are more difficult to troubleshoot than regular O-ring leaks. Sometimes they are one in the same.
Hopefully this guide will shed some light on why and how to repair most of the leaks that occur with DP markers.
Troubleshooting is a process of elimination. Hopefully following this guide/process will help you solve any leaks that occur.

What are O-rings?
Source – Wikipedia found here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/O-ring
There are typically 3 O-ring applications in PB markers
1) Static Seal – An absence of motion between sealing surfaces or between the seal surface and the mating surface.
2) Dynamic Seal – A seal between two surfaces in motion.
a) Reciprocal Motion – Actuating or back and forth/Up and down motion.
b) Rotary Motion – A rotating/circular motion.
3) Shock absorber or “Bumper” – A O-ring that absorbs the shock of two parts colliding.

Step 1: WHERE?
First you have to know WHERE it’s leaking in order to find out how to fix it. Sometimes this is easy, sometimes it isn’t. If you have multiple leaks it can be difficult to locate 1 specific leak with the other spitting air out.

Step 2: What?
After establishing the location of the leak, you will need to find WHAT is leaking in that location. This is usually easier than the first step, since you have now eliminated most of the possibilities by finding where the leak is.
Markers have several main parts that breakdown.
A) HPR (High Pressure Regulator)
B) Vertical ASA {Vertical Air Source Adapter – Mounts between the HPR and Body}
C) LPR {Low Pressure Regulator [Fusion, F8 models]}
D) Ram area{Fusion, F8}
E) Bolt Area
F) ASA {Air Source Adapter} DP markers common ASA is RAPS {Rapid Air Pressurizing System}
G) Body
a.Top or Bottom tube{Fusion, F8}
b.Front or Rear
H) Solenoid
I) Macro fittings/Macro Line
To find out what is leaking refer to the maintenance guides of the markers that are found in the stickies or Click the link of your type of marker at the top of the page.

Step 3: WHY?
With having located “where” and “what” is leaking, now it’s time to find the “why”. Why is it leaking?
A) Are there O-rings in the location that create a seal?
B) Do the O-rings have lube on them when inspected?
C) Are the O-rings; Cut, damaged, misshaped, dry, torn, stretched, correct size or otherwise NOT in perfect condition?

Step 4: How?
Ask yourself, what do the O-rings in the parts do?
Do they provide a static seal or a dynamic seal?
If they provide a static seal and are leaking then air is bypassing that seal.
To correct, apply a swelling lube or replace the O-ring.
If it’s a dynamic seal then it could be worn or damaged and not creating a good seal between the mating surfaces.
To correct, look for worn or damage on the O-rings that are in motion on the part. Replace all sealing O-rings on that part that are damaged.

Step 5: Why?
The Last thing that you must ask yourself is; why did the O-ring fail?
There are too many things that can happen to O-rings to list them all so I’ll just give you a couple of idea.
Is it just worn from using the marker?
Was the part put together properly?
Was the correct size and type of O-ring used for the part?
Is the part itself damaged and in turn damaged the O-ring/s?
Was the O-ring lubed?
Was the right lubricant used for that type of O-ring’s application?

Explanation of common lubes for common application.
All markers work differently with different parts and different size O-rings. Here are some of the basics.
If an O-ring isn’t moving, like on a LPR, Ram, Valve, or a vertical ASA. Typically they require a swelling type lube.
If the O-ring moves like on a Bolt, Ram piston, Valve stem (poppit), inside HPR or inside LPR. Typically a NON-swelling lube is recommended.

Common O-ring Problems with DP markers.
I will list just a few O-rings that that might give a few people problems, that are not as easy to troubleshoot.

Fusion/F8
If the bolt sticks forward and fails to reset, the problem is a O-ring on the Solenoid piston. Clean, Inspect, change O-ring, and relube. Fusion Solenoid

If you get a leak from the LPR and all O-rings have been changed and Lubed with Dow55. It could be that the threads are a bit off and in the closed position is allowing air to bypass the O-rings. Adjust the LPR by turning the whole LPR in and out. Sometimes this little movement will fix this leak. (Thanks rottensquad07)

Leak out back of ram cap. Replace and relube the O-rings on the Ram’s sleeve. There are 2 O-rings here. Replace both and relube with Dow-55.

Leak out barrel or feedneck. Lube valve pin/poppit with Dow-55. If it still leaks, replace the valve internal O-ring. Refer to the section on Valve removal and O-ring Chart for size or contact DP.


Threshold/G3
The largest problem with the Threshold is it failing to cycle. More often than not it’s because the #3 O-ring is failing to seal. I know it seems like bolt stick. It isn’t. Refer to the “Teflon Tape Mod”. If you do the mod and it still fails to cycle, it could several things. Turn up the HPR just a bit. Lube Solenoid

If your back cap unscrew or becomes loose after you play with it for a while. There is a Thin O-ring on the back cap. Relube with Dow-55. If that doesn’t fix the problem you will need to replace that O-ring. Refer to the O-ring chart for the size or contact DP.

Leak from barrel and/or feedneck. Lube bolt between 1st and 2nd O-ring on the bolt. If that doesn’t fix the leak, replace the internal O-ring inside the body. Refer to theMaintaining Your Bolt Assembly #8 post, in the
Threshold Breakdown.
If the Leak persists, replace back cap stem O-ring.


I'll revise this to add info and links. LMK if I need to change or alter this post.
Make suggestions for what leak on what marker and how to fix and I'll update later.
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Last edited by meMYSELFnI : 10-11-2008 at 08:48 PM.
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Old 10-09-2008, 10:15 PM #2
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i vote sticky...
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Old 10-09-2008, 10:30 PM #3
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great work.
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Old 10-09-2008, 10:41 PM #4
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a leakd down the barrel could also be

-Back cap stem oring
-Back cap bumper rubber ring


ive had to replace both because of a leak down the barrel
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Old 10-10-2008, 02:35 AM #5
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how long do the bolt o rings last on a g3 before they wear?
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Old 10-10-2008, 06:00 AM #6
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depends on useage

Do i smell elmers glue?
this needs to be stickiefied!
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Old 10-10-2008, 12:28 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NotoNito View Post
how long do the bolt o rings last on a g3 before they wear?

Quote:
Step 5: Why?
The Last thing that you must ask yourself is; why did the O-ring fail?
There are too many things that can happen to O-rings to list them all so I’ll just give you a couple of idea.
Is it just worn from using the marker?
Was the part put together properly?
Was the correct size and type of O-ring used for the part?
Is the part itself damaged and in turn damaged the O-ring/s?
Was the O-ring lubed?
Was the right lubricant used for that type of O-ring’s application?
This post is for people like you that need to learn how things work. The steps are there for you to get an idea, but we can't do the thinking for you.
This is just a step by step so that people can learn how to troubleshoot.

I wish we could tell everyone what symptoms are with what failed orings in every part of the markers, but that would be a long list and most would be common sense on how to fix them for most of us. Even if someone did do that, most wouldn't read though it to find the solution.

I will update with common problems, but I'm not going to make that very long list of everything that could go wrong.
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Old 05-21-2012, 12:31 PM #8
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would anyone know how to get in to the internal o-ring of a g3 that's where my g3 is leaking from and i cant figure out how to get in there and fix the problem thank you
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Old 05-21-2012, 12:38 PM #9
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If you have steady hands, you can use a dental pick or if you don't, you can use a small wooden skewer - like the ones used to make kabobs. However, getting the o-ring out is the easy part. The hard part is putting a new one in. I'd go with the wooden skewer or even an unsharpened pencil.

Another idea that might work is to put the o-ring on the bolt and carefully slide the bolt in. Just make sure to lube first.
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Old 05-21-2012, 12:59 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CA_Tectonics View Post
If you have steady hands, you can use a dental pick or if you don't, you can use a small wooden skewer - like the ones used to make kabobs. However, getting the o-ring out is the easy part. The hard part is putting a new one in. I'd go with the wooden skewer or even an unsharpened pencil.

Another idea that might work is to put the o-ring on the bolt and carefully slide the bolt in. Just make sure to lube first.
I found a good trick for putting that O ring back in, from the backside of the marker, place that specific internal O ring, then slid a smaller than the bolt area freak barrel insert down to the end where that O ring seats, the O ring will just click into place. I did this after trying for almost an hour every other way under the sun. You may want to grease up the freak barrel insert first incase you pick a size to close to the internal size of your bolt area. >>>> Caution<<<< Don't scratch that internal bolt area, it will do un repairable harm to your marker.
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