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Old Yesterday, 07:48 PM #1
Ford's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Austin 49
Ford is a founding member
 has been a member for 10 years
Cocker rebuild home stretch, main spring questions

Hey all.

Quick history lesson. I stopped playing paintball a while ago, and got back into it about a year ago. I picked up a Drone DX and it suites me fine, but I've been slowly rebuilding my trusty 96 autococker.

I've had to replace pretty much every seal in this thing. I've rebuilt the ram, the rock reg, replaced the 3-way with a brass STO...

All the leaks are gone, I've had to time this thing so many times I think I could do it blind folded. I have one last problem...

The main spring. I'm noticing whenever I try to shoot my marker I get a farty noise, not enough air seems to come out of the marker, and paintballs barely fly out the barrel.

This leads me to believe that I need a stiffer main spring, that over the course of just sitting in my cocker, the current spring is cashed. I've noticed ANS Gear has main springs for sale. 2 different ones in fact.

My questions are:
Do I need to worry about getting the right size hammer spring for a 96 versus a 2k?
Will one of these ANS main springs work? There don't appear to be any descriptions on the postings.

If it helps, my marker is mostly AKA internals.

Lightning bolt, tornado valve, and it has a set screw very similar to their hammer kit on this link:

I suppose I could try buying the whole hammer kit from akalmp, but I'd rather save the 20 bucks if possible.

Thanks for any clarification offered.
"Originally posted by Bronk0
Everyone put something in your sig about it...

like PORN THREAD 10/24/04: I was there.

Last edited by Ford : Yesterday at 07:52 PM.
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Old Yesterday, 09:22 PM #2
Washington Reign
Join Date: Jul 2011
No need to worry about the different spring as long as you have the none nelson based hammer which you 99.99% do. the Pre 98 and 2K spring is mainly for the valve as the pre 98's had a smaller valve chamber and used a shorter valve spring, the hammer spring lengths were pretty consistent over the years.
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Old Yesterday, 11:07 PM #3
The voices say I'm normal
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Rochester NY
vantrepes is a founding member
 has been a member for 10 years
When WGP went from the old style barrel velocity adjusters to the newer style IVGs, they increased the length of the main spring.
Back in the dark ages (pre-98), the common upgrade was to a Nelson hammer and adjuster, which replaced the Sheridan main spring, and adjuster that came stock. That's why all the old school hammer kits came with both the adjuster, and hammer, and maybe some springs. The Nelson springs were wider, and required a new adjuster to work.
A Nelson length main spring will require the IVG to be about a third of the way in before it even touches the end of the spring. That doesn't really hurt anything, but it takes a lot of the adjustment range away.

A 98 main spring will be compressed by about .5" just by installing the old style of adjuster, which is a hell of a lot of extra tension to place on the spring right at the start.
Edit: you might want to try these:

If you are using an AKA valve, your best bet is to use the AKA springs that were intended to work with it. The AKA hammer kit is only $28, and it comes with the spring, but, before you buy anything more........
What have you done to tune the tornado valve? Most times, if a tornado valve is giving low velocities without dumping air after each shot, it's because the input pressure is too high.
I use to be a 'cocker tech......
The shop is still closed, but I ran across my old back up of the MPP site. It's posted here.
Lots of cocker stuff for sale.

Last edited by vantrepes : Yesterday at 11:14 PM.
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