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Old 08-24-2008, 12:03 AM #22
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ok sweet i may get wired eyes but i not familiar what the difference is.
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Old 08-24-2008, 04:55 AM #23
Uziel Gal
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These are ribbon eyes - in this instance, for a Shocker NXT: -





These are wired eyes (Ego eyes in this instance - both are just being used as an example, and are just things that I had to hand).



The main difference between the two eye types is obvious - the wired eyes literally use wire to connect the eye elements. The ribbon eyes use thin metal traces sealed between layers of plastic tape. These traces are relatively fragile and can be damaged if the ribbon kinks.

Although these eyes are for different markers, and neither for a PM8, it should be obvious none the less that the ribbon eyes will also use a different connector to wired eyes - ribbon push in to a slot that contains elements that make direct contact with the end of the metal traces, whereas wired eyes have a plug and socket arrangement. This means that to use wired eyes, you either need a board with the correct socket to accept wired eyes, or you need an adapter to allow wired eyes to be connected to the ribbon eye slot.
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Old 08-24-2008, 05:04 AM #24
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I don't understand why my topic gets locked and this one is untouched. I was asking the same EXACT thing. And I got locked. WTF
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Old 08-24-2008, 07:40 AM #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uziel Gal View Post

The main difference between the two eye types is obvious - the wired eyes literally use wire to connect the eye elements. The ribbon eyes use thin metal traces sealed between layers of plastic tape. These traces are relatively fragile and can be damaged if the ribbon kinks.

Although these eyes are for different markers, and neither for a PM8, it should be obvious none the less that the ribbon eyes will also use a different connector to wired eyes - ribbon push in to a slot that contains elements that make direct contact with the end of the metal traces, whereas wired eyes have a plug and socket arrangement. This means that to use wired eyes, you either need a board with the correct socket to accept wired eyes, or you need an adapter to allow wired eyes to be connected to the ribbon eye slot.
well my nxts are fine i didnt think they were fragile at all... lol but i thought that the ul frame had the connection for both??? idk is the pm8 ul different than the dm ul? and are laser eyes worth it?
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I don't understand why my topic gets locked and this one is untouched. I was asking the same EXACT thing. And I got locked. WTF
idk sorry buddy...
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Old 08-24-2008, 09:14 AM #26
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Not all UL boards have the same connectors on them.

If you are upgrading an older PM for instance, Dye assume that you will have the stock eyes (ribbon), and so the board supplied comes with the ribbon eye slot. Buy a UL frame for a DM4/5, and the board only has a socket for wired eyes, as that is what they expect you to have in your stock marker.

I'll be honest, I don't know off the top of my head if the PM8 board, specifically, has both connectors or not - I don't have a PM8 to hand right now. However, earlier versions of the stock UL boards have had one connector or the other. Aftermarket boards are more likely to have both.

As for laser eyes, they don't really do anything that stock eyes don't. OK, the light beam is in the visible spectrum, and that lets you know that the transmitter beam is working. However, that still doesn't let you know that the eyes are fully functional, as the receiver could be broken and not seeing the light from the transmitter. They are for looks and bragging rights more than anything.
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Old 08-24-2008, 01:20 PM #27
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ok well ill see when i get it so it should be fine... i just dont want to have to upgrade it
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Old 08-25-2008, 11:09 AM #28
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Just an update - an '08 UL board should have both eye connections, but earlier versions won't.
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Old 08-25-2008, 11:30 AM #29
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Yup, like Uziel Gal said, the 08 UL boards should have both connectors. To verify, you can look at this pic (circled in red):
http://www.alternativepb.com/images/08ULboard.jpg

Just keep in mind that not all wired eyes will fit in a PM8 because of the thickness of the wires. The PM8 doesn't have very much room to route the wires. If you get eyes that have wires that are fairly thin, it should work fine:
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2777299

sabgetran: I PM'd you more info.
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Old 08-25-2008, 04:06 PM #30
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sweet does anyone know how an RF chip fits in one?
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Old 08-25-2008, 07:15 PM #31
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Reading through the thread I cant say much that hasn't already been said. Couple of observations though...

When you talk about cold temps, I live in Montana. I've played in 11 below temps. The first thing you need to do is ONLY use sleek in the winter. Every other lube I've seen has frozen at those temps. Also turn the ABS off. It will make you break more paint than normal. Also, keep the gun warm as possible to prevent O-ring contraction. Basic cold weather stuff.
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Old 08-25-2008, 07:28 PM #32
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Reading through the thread I cant say much that hasn't already been said. Couple of observations though...

When you talk about cold temps, I live in Montana. I've played in 11 below temps. The first thing you need to do is ONLY use sleek in the winter. Every other lube I've seen has frozen at those temps. Also turn the ABS off. It will make you break more paint than normal. Also, keep the gun warm as possible to prevent O-ring contraction. Basic cold weather stuff.
cool i have sleek from my nxt! but whats the abs?
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Old 08-25-2008, 07:33 PM #33
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Anti bolt stick. After 15 seconds of non use, the board automaticly increases the dwell on the next shot to prevent the bolt from sticking. With cold paint, the gun turns into a blender.
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Old 08-25-2008, 07:33 PM #34
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Old 08-25-2008, 07:40 PM #35
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ok lol will do
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Old 08-25-2008, 08:01 PM #36
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break it in....then lower your dwell.....change the all the bolt o-rings every so often.
There is a reason PM's come with "factory settings". Having owned 6 total protos now (all matrix's, not rail or slg), I have kept them all at STOCK settings for the total time I owned them all and never ever had a problem with regular maintenance. I get decent efficiency with all of the pm's I owned around 1300 or so from a 68/4500 broken in, w/ good paint to barrel match.

The barrels are basically the same except for bore size and milling. Proto is a sister company to Dye, and believe me, there is no "****" setting on dye's milling machines. So to all the people who think Proto barrels are worse than dye from micro honing or bore size, you are dead wrong.

I haven't owned a PM8 yet but plan to when I get bored of my vice.
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Old 08-25-2008, 09:13 PM #37
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so youre saying that the pm8 should need no tuning?
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Old 08-25-2008, 09:35 PM #38
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Not unless you want to have the thing running at the absolute best it can. Stock settings work fine and don't need to be tinkered with, your marker will function amazingly stock.

But if you are a compulsive tinkerer, and have to have everything working at its absoulute peak, like I do, than you can fine tune your board and LPR to have your PM8 working at the max efficiancy the marker is mechanicaly capable of.


Out of the box the PM8 will work amazingly well and needs no fine tuning to function. However, should you choose to, you can tune your PM8 to get the best possible opperation.

In short, out of the box PM8 with stock settings = Amazing

PM8 tuned by someone who knows what they're doing = Extra Amazing
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Old 08-25-2008, 10:17 PM #39
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well how do i know what im doing? i know that nxts have a hole site dedicated to tunning them... do pms have that?
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Old 08-25-2008, 10:26 PM #40
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The funny thing is, I know what I am doing when I mess with settings. I've owned enough to know and worked on enough to know how it works and get the max out of whatever gun
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Old 08-26-2008, 06:54 AM #41
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ok rocky so youre sayin just play with it right? lol i just dont want to screw up a nice gun
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Old 08-26-2008, 08:27 AM #42
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your best bet is to just play with it untill you get comfortable with the gun then decide what you want to change about it.
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