2x2+2x2/4x2/8 Pin: Used for CPU power, some boards use a single connector so the 4x2(8 Pin) will break into 2x2+2x2 like so:
20+4: Main power connector for the mobo:
6 Pin: Usually a PCI-e power connector looks like so:
PCI(-e)(x16): Used for cards that are inserted into these slots, also where a graphics card is inserted:
Alright lets move on to the actual building shall we?
First set up a work area with all the tools handy. You will need a Phillips-head screw driver, along with zip ties to tidy up any hairy wiring. This is sometimes not necessary, depending on how neat you want to be. You will also need a surface that is both flat and NOT CARPET, for the sake of safety. If you have a card table this will be fine, just make sure you wipe down the table first so that no abrasives will rub against your case while you are working on it. Make sure to ground yourself by touching the case or another metal object frequently to minimize the risk of static discharge. The “small” charge that you can accumulate and discharge is more than enough to fry some of your components, especially the CPU and circuit boards.
Take out your boxes of computer parts and lay them out so that you can take stock of what you have. Unpack your case and take off the side panel that allows you access to the insides of your computer, which is the usually left-hand panel if you’re looking at the case from the front. Lay the case flat on the table and open up your motherboard box. Find the manual and keep it handy for later. Just as a reminder, make sure you touch the case or a ground to get rid of any static electricity before touching the mobo. After reading the manual take out the mobo and lay it on a clean, non-metallic surface with the business end facing up. Open up your CPU box and remove the HSF and manual.
To start your build remove your PSU from the box it came in. Depending on the design of your case, the unit may end up resting in in either the top corner at the rear of the case or at either lower corner. Most cases will locate it at the top of the case in the back, but if you are unsure your case manual will be able to guide you. After sliding the PSU into it’s bay from the inside, secure it to the case with the four to six screws provided with the case. For the sake of this guide, DO NOT plug in the power cord to the PSU and DO NOT turn on the PSU yet. Ensure that the red voltage switch (if applicable) is switched to 110/120v. It should be from the factory, but it never hurts to make sure. Some PSUs do not have a manual switch, and therefore you don’t need to worry about it.
On the motherboard there may be a protective piece of plastic over top of the CPU socket. If there is one there, unsecure the lever attached to the CPU socket and lift it such that the plastic can be removed. If you are having difficulties, consult the manual that came with the CPU or motherboard. Remove the CPU from its box and turn it over. You should notice that in one corner, there is a slot or indentation that corresponds to an equal mark in the socket on the motherboard. This prevents you from inserting the CPU the wrong way. NEVER should you have to force the CPU into place, so if it is resisting then it’s not in there correctly. The pins on the CPU and/or motherboard are very fragile (especially the pins inside the Socket 775 socket) so be very careful. After the CPU is resting in it’s new home, use the aforementioned arm on the socket to secure the CPU in place. It may require a fair amount of force depending on the socket, so be sure to support the board as you lock the CPU into place. Now remove your HSF from the box and carefully remove the protective plastic cover on the bottom. Do not touch the bottom of the HSF from now on, because the oil on your fingers is not conducive to heat transfer. Place the HSF over the CPU and follow the instructions provided with the unit to clip the HSF down on the mobo. Sometimes the HSF will need to be rotated to make sure the fan power connector will reach the CPU fan power plug. Make sure everything is on tightly before moving on. If you’re using a stock Intel HSF, make sure all four pins are protruding through the holes fully. It is very easy to only have three secured, so make sure you have all four in place before moving on.
Now that you have the CPU inserted correctly you can move on to the ram. Depending on your motherboard there may be two to six slots in which RAM sticks fit into. Usually the slots are two different colors, with each pair of identically colored spots corresponding to a channel. If you have 2 sticks of RAM then you can fit the RAM into 2 slots of the same color for best results. There will be (usually) white tabs on the ends of each RAM slot. Press then down on both sides of each slot that you will be filling. RAM will only fit one way, so be sure you have the RAM in the correct orientation before pushing it into the slots. As you push down, the tabs you opened earlier should close automatically as soon as the RAM is fully seated.
Next is an important step that cannot be skipped, no matter how trivial it may sound. In your mobo or case box there should be some standoffs These are usually brass-colored pieces with female and male threads in one unit. These serve to elevate the motherboard slightly to prevent the electrical joints on the underside of the board from contacting the case. Remove the screws from the bag and look into the back of your case, on the inside of the case where the motherboard will sit you will see holes to screw the standoffs into. As you will soon notice, there are far more holes inside the case than there are on your board; this is to accommodate a wide variety of motherboards. You should match the screw holes on the inside of the case to the holes in your motherboard. This can be tricky as some holes on the inside of the case are close together. Try to imagine how your motherboard will fit in the case and where the holes in the mobo match with the holes on the inside of the case. After you think you have inserted all the standoffs in the correct holes you will need to switch out the I/O panel. The I/O panel that comes with the case should be able to pop out easily, replace with the I/O panel that was packed with the motherboard. Check to make sure no cables or obstacles are in the way before you insert the motherboard in the case. Unpack some motherboard screws to prepare to screw the motherboard into place. Touch the case to remove any possible static and carefully pick up your motherboard. Place the motherboard in the case with the screw holes matching the standoffs and the I/O panel lining up correctly. You will likely have to angle the board into the case in order to avoid snagging it on the protrusions that are sometimes present on the inside of the I/O panels. Often, you will need to press fairly hard against the I/O panel to properly line up the mobo with the standoffs you installed earlier.
Next you will be inserting your HDD and your DVD/CD drive into their corresponding bays inside the case. The HDD will fit into the smaller 3.5 inch bays while the CD/DVD drive will occupy one of the larger 5.25 inch bays. Take your time to clean up your workplace before moving on. Put any extra screws back into bags and lay out the new screws/items you will need for this installation. For some cases the other side panel will need to be removed to insert the HDD(s) and DVD/CD drives. So standup your case and remove the other panel. Open your HDD box (if applicable; OEM will not come in a box) and touch the case as to remove any static electricity once again (*NOTE* Some cases come with rubber grommets or other rubber pieces to place against the HDD and the HDD cage as to reduce vibrations and resonance. If this is the case, install them per the instructions provided with your case). Remove the HDD and place it in the HDD cage. After placing the drive in the cage line up the female screw holes on the drive with corresponding holes in the cage. Lightly screw in the 4 screws halfway before screwing them all in completely as to allow you to reposition the drive slightly if necessary. After you have completely screwed in the HDD and it is secure, remove one or more of the front drive bay covers. If you have one CD/DVD drive, remove one and so forth. This is so the front your DVD/CD drive can exit the case when it wants a DVD/CD. After the drive bay is removed, slide the DVD/CD drive into the gaping hole from the front/outside of the case. Do the same for any floppy drives or other media drives you may have.
Now, the last main computer part will be inserted, the mighty grapics (also known outside ST:T as “graphics”) card. Remove the expansion slot plate from the back of the case that corresponds to the PCI-E slot. If the topmost slot on the motherboard is the one that will accept the card, remove the topmost plate and so on and so forth. Apply this principle for all of your expansion cards. Remove the card from the box and look in your motherboard for the PCI-E x16 slot carefully insert it into this slot vertically and firmly press down on the card until it is secure. Screw the card to the case with the provided mounting holes.