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Old 01-30-2013, 11:40 PM #547
TJM13PB
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Here are mine, tried to do some two tone coloring for fun
might strip it and do a half and half so it doesn't chip like it did on the left side

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Old 02-03-2013, 12:44 AM #548
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great tut!
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Old 02-28-2013, 01:06 AM #549
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Tried some paint stripper. Chickened out after it turned brown on the plastic and pulled the color out of the rubber. Didn't seem to hurt anything, by the things I mentioned all happened within matter of seconds, so I had a heart attack.
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Old 04-22-2013, 07:13 PM #550
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Should I repaint this with Black, or should I use white?


Also should I use Krylon or Plastidip?

THanks!!


As you can see the plastic is beginning to peel.




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Old 04-23-2013, 12:03 PM #551
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It's a crap shoot to paint a mask. I've used everything possible to color masks and nothing stays. Sly profits crack and peel like crazy right from the factory for a reason. Unless its color formed in the mold it will not stick. I even have a buddy who dura coats everything but masks because it won't stick. They just flex too much to stay on.
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Old 04-24-2013, 03:50 AM #552
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Neither of you last two posters seems to have even bothered reading the thread.

Krylon Fusion seems to work just fine on PLASTIC PARTS. The rubber will require dye, PlastiDip, or tattoos.

Terminator - for your chipping plastic, hit it with some fine grit sandpaper to clean it up before you paint over it, or the plastic will just keep chipping off and taking your paint job with it.

New guy - there are dozens of pictures in this thread that would beg to differ.
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:28 PM #553
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Just painted mine
Idea from badger

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Old 04-26-2013, 12:20 AM #554
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Looks cool! Use your exacto knife to clean up those edges!
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Old 05-09-2013, 12:02 AM #555
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I bought the mask for $10 it was in bad shape. I ended up buying another lens on my local FB group for $10. I had some black/white plastidip laying around and here is my progress of what I did throughout this project.

I ended up masking the rubber to paint the plastic.



Black Plastidip




The rubber portion really bothered me so I decided to paint that too.



I didnt mask it right and messed up from the pictures above and decided to do it all over.



Went to play paintball a few days later and got a scent of banana scented paint and it started to crack. So I yet again started pealing it off. I retrofitted a KM strap ($25) I bought from the field because i've been dying to get this for years.




I'm trying to go with a theme on this with my favorite brand 9Five with Teal/White/Black so I'm back on the drawing board scheming on how to do this.Not bad for spending around $45. I will post progress.Thanks for looking.
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:56 AM #556
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The full white looks good
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Old 06-13-2013, 01:53 PM #557
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V-Force Grill

Inspired by this page i created my own custom grill.
Greetings from Germany, Berlin.

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Old 06-24-2013, 06:02 PM #558
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nice job, Tocker!
please contact me! im looking for someone painting masks in Germany
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:20 AM #559
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Alright, since I gave up on the Stormtrooper, I've learned a few things!

Eventually your white Grills will start to stain - this is largely why I gave up on my Stormtrooper idea. If you can live with the stains, power to you, I'm a little too much of a perfectionist especially when it comes to Star Wars!

To dye your V Force Gill is an inexact science at best - Green dye came out blue. A yellow dye bath for your now-blue mask came out greyish green. Another yellow dye bath turned that darker gray. A boiling water bath can pull a lot of that pigment out. Suddenly, green dye turns a light gray mask green. Many more dye baths later, a black dye bath for a dead greenish-gray turns it a lighter dead, purple-gray. Another black dye bath doesn't affect the color at all. Three weeks in a black dye bath makes it a slightly darker purple. White Krylon Fusion barely changes at all, and white Plastidip dyes very inconsistently. Eventually, you'll get fed up with dye.

I cannot overstate how important it is to use your exacto knife well - clean cuts on your taping and cleaning up your edges afterward is a HUGE margin between a hack job and quality, professional-looking work.

It might not hurt to sand the plastic first - it may not help either. Ultimately, all the time and effort you put into this mask will make you want to make sure it's perfect, and if sanding it will give you a sense of security, then save yourself the anxiety up front. If you're sanding off an old paint job, the sanded-off paint dust will stick in the rubber if you rub that sandpaper on it at all. Frankly, I haven't found a way to prevent this, but I imagine you could probably tape it off. I've been putting the mask in boiling water to pull it back out, which gets most of it. I imagine a little soap-and-water scrubbing could probably work as well.

Sanding off your old paint job is slow! - I tried paint stripper again, and three fifteen-minute coats later, the plastic and rubber don't show any visible signs of being chemically eaten or melted. That's MY experience though, and after all the things I've put my mask through, I my have created a super-mask a la countless comic book characters.

Don't be afraid to try stuff - it's a pretty easy process once you're comfortable with it, and so far I have yet to do anything to actually ruin the mask. If you REALLY feel like you've done irreversible damage, the cost of these masks is a drop in the bucket for paintball players. If you're bored or creative enough to feel compelled to do this sort of thing, it's obviously worth your money to find out what you can do.

Different spray distances produce different results - up close (3-6") will give a very thick, very smooth, high-gloss finish that cracks pretty quickly. The recommended (12-14") distance produces a much thinner, slightly rougher, slightly-lower-gloss finish that I'm fairly certain may never crack. You'll need 3-4 coats either way, because you WILL find spots that you missed or that didn't cover right. Obviously, most people will go for the "Crackless Method," but in my case with the Stormtrooper, where I was going for a specific look, the ultra-high-gloss finish worked in my favor, not to mention the constant wind whenever I had time to work on it didn't particularly agree with a longer spray distance.

Plastidip can work - as long as you want Black, white, red, or yellow color schemes, because as I said earlier, it's very splotchy when you dye it. Also, while the main part of the coat doesn't peel all that easily, your edges will be very susceptible to rubbing right off. If you try a plastidip scheme and don't like it, it will peel off with some effort and patience.

Generally speaking, you should be able to do this. It really is as simple as it is described, and the OP covers every step. But, if for some reason you aren't feeling up to it, I'm willing to do the job for you. PM me if you'd like my help.
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Last edited by murdercrow : 07-07-2013 at 04:43 AM.
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Old 07-08-2013, 12:49 PM #560
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Looking to do this, can someone explain me how to do a fade.

EX: Silver fade to black.

Seen some around, any advice is appreciated!
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Old 07-17-2013, 01:30 AM #561
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Great stuff
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Old 07-18-2013, 09:04 PM #562
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I like the last one
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:18 PM #563
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Hey guys and girls I decided to trie it on my grillz.Turned out alright with gold.Just need to work on edges.
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Old 07-26-2013, 06:05 AM #564
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Just Finished Mine!!! :D

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Old 07-26-2013, 05:10 PM #565
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Nice job
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Old 07-28-2013, 11:13 PM #566
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Thank You!
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Old 07-30-2013, 10:12 PM #567
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Just finished this last week, needs some touch ups with an exacto.
Ordered a Houston Heat strap to match, going to do the double strap mod!


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