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06-03-2008, 02:10 AM
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#1
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Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Santa Cruz
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Problem Solver(in progress) have a problem? Post here.
Ok I'm going to start this thread because I see the same posts over and over and over again.
so I'll categorize these into different fixes. Hopefully I'll have a full repair guide up sooner or later.
LPR - Low Pressure Regulator
Location:
The LPR is located under the barrel, It is the one that runs parrallel with the barrel and perpendicular to the inline regulator(discussed later on in this page)
Ideal Pressures:
Ideal output pressures is 80-90psi. Regardless of the popular 70 psi the safety pressure(meaning the pressure that your gun is suppose to work on no matter what is 80-90). It is true that you can lower it, but do so at your own risk. I recommend you shooting a long string of paint through your gun after you lower to look for drop off. But if you gun has cycling problems try putting it back to between 80-90. You adjust the LPR through the little 3/16 socket allen screw at the tip of the LPR. Turning it in raises the pressure, turning it out lowers the pressure. Make sure you shoot the gun three times everytime you make an adjustment to balance out the pressure.
-----Which gauge is it?-----
The one that comes stock on the intimdiator is the one that you should pay attnetion to. It can only be on the left or right side depending on which type of Intimidator you have.
-----I have Dual Reg Housing what about me-----
If you are one of those that have the Dual reg housings(aka Dualies) The you adjust the LPR through the bottom of the two regs. And the Gauge port is the lower of the two. There is one hole on the left and one on the right. If you look at it one is lower than the other.
Maintenance:
Yes we have to maintain our regulators. To to this you need a tube of DOW 55 corning grease. That is what is recommended by the pros and Bob Long himself.
--Steps:--
1.) First degas your gun. Never work on your marker with it gassed up.
2.) Grab and remove the front end of the LPR.
3.) Depending on what kind of LPR you have you should dump the guts of the LPR into your hand. If you have a lasoya or that type of LPR then the guts should come out with your top portion with the exception of the Piston.
4.) Use needle nose pliers to fetch the Piston. Its the silver thing still in the lpr.
5.) Clean it off with a towel, then apply a thin coat of DOW55 to the O-ring, there is no need to dip the Piston in, the o-ring is all that is needed to be lubed.
6.) If you want clean the inside of the reg housing and apply a light coat of DOW55 on in the inside wall of the LPR.
7.) Now reassemble the LPR by putting the Piston back into the LPR housing, remember small end towards the brass piece and fat end towards the lpr spring. Then put the LPR Spring in, and then the little metal disc(it can be silver ot brass). And then put the cap back on.
Troubleshooting:
-----My LPR is slowly creeping-----
If your LPR is slowly creeping it is mosty likely the small white or clear o-ring under the reg seat. Sometimes it could be the Black one around the reg seat. To get to the o-ring follow these following steps:
Steps:
1.) Degas your marker
2.) Take the rip of the reg tube off(if you have a GZ or that type of LPR) if you have the Lasoya type then you need to seperate the top part from the lower part.
3.) After this dump the internals into your hand. It should be a metal disk and a spring. Set those aside
4.) Look down the tube you should see a silver metallic piece in there. Remove it with needle nose pliers.(You are removing what we call the Piston)
5.) After that you will see a brass piece. You need to remove that. To do so you will need to put a socket wrench on it.(I will insert the size here later) Or you can take a flat head screw driver.(If you do so make sure that you push the pin down while you are doing this otherwise you bend that pin, which will ruin your lpr)
6.) Now use your needle nose pliers to remove the pin valve and just change out the o-ring with a new one.
7.) Now just reassemble
-----My LPR is Still slowly creeping-----
Ok if your LPR is still slowly creeping then I would say that you might have put in a bad o-ring. I know it might be a new one that you put in, but sometimes new ones could be bad. The other option is the little black o-ring that is on the reg seat. To repair this just follow the stesp above, only don't replace the white o-ring, replace the black one.
-----My LPR is Spiking-----
Ok there is a difference between LPR Spiking and LPR Creeping. If you are unexperienced with the two, here is a good way to remember. Creeping is the needle on the gauge moving up slowly and Spiking is the LPR almost immediately jumping really high. Creeping means you have to sit there and watch the LPR gauge sometimes it is slower than others. Spiking is it just jumping and basically anyone with 2 seconds of free time can see the pressure differences
Steps(if you do not have a volumizer, but do have a single reg housing(one tube going parrellel with the barrel not two).
1.) Degas your marker.
2.) Remove the entire LPR from the reg housing.(If you have a Lasoya or that type LPR, remove the top and the bottom of it.(you might need a monkey wrench to do so)
3.) Check the fat o-ring at the base of the lpr. If it has scarrs replace it. If it doesn't lubricate the o-ring and put the lpr back on and see if it spikes again.
4.) If it is still spiking then replace that o-ring.(Keep inmind that if you have a second hand marker, the genious before you might have changed the sizes of the o-ring on you. If that is the case I will be posting the o-ring size later on)
5.) That should solve your spiking problem. Remember when you replace the o-ring to relube the o-ring as well. Please use DOW 55 corning grease.
Steps(if you do have a volumizer and have a single reg housing(one tube going parrellel with the barrel not two).
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\Under Construction////////////////////
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06-03-2008, 09:41 AM
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#2
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cixelsyd
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: An Attic
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I do not know if this was posted in the other one, but can someone write up signs of a dieing sloenoid. Thank You
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06-03-2008, 09:54 AM
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#3
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Read the manual!!
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: OK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by painter4life05
I do not know if this was posted in the other one, but can someone write up signs of a dieing sloenoid. Thank You
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http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2706176
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06-03-2008, 10:08 AM
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#4
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cixelsyd
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: An Attic
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ok kinda what I needed but that was enough to help thank you.
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06-03-2008, 02:15 PM
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#5
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Its MY CUP
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Cactus
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Does anyone know if they sell cup seal type washers at a store like Lowes? I need a 2k2 cup seal, but dont have time to wait for one to get here.
__________________
YA GETS NONE
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06-03-2008, 02:18 PM
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#6
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Read the manual!!
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: OK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Codymm1014
Does anyone know if they sell cup seal type washers at a store like Lowes? I need a 2k2 cup seal, but dont have time to wait for one to get here.
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go there and find out..or go to ur local pro shop
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06-03-2008, 03:02 PM
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#7
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Its MY CUP
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Cactus
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no local proshop.
i guess ill check
__________________
YA GETS NONE
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06-03-2008, 03:20 PM
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#8
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cixelsyd
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: An Attic
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Hey
I can not get my trigger out of my 2k3 trigger frame any help or suggestions?
McD
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06-03-2008, 05:10 PM
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#9
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Read the manual!!
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: OK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by painter4life05
Hey
I can not get my trigger out of my 2k3 trigger frame any help or suggestions?
McD
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the pivot screw should just unscrew
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06-03-2008, 06:04 PM
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#10
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cixelsyd
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: An Attic
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Its stripped I think should I just buy a new trigger? I am getting a new frame anyway.
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06-04-2008, 10:43 AM
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#11
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Daiguren Hyōrinmaru
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Northern VA
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when i rip on my 2k6 Infamous, i hear a loud pop in between shots (anywhere from the 5th-10th shot in the stream). i got my Infamous used through a trade, but i had a similar from when i first had the Empire II. the upgrades that came with Infamous is a CP reg & an Eigenram. the poppit is brass and the board is stock (Infamous 1.5; Dwell=8.0) and bolt is stock. the HPR, LPR, poppit, and ram have been relubed with dow55 (dow 33 for the eigenram) and i still keep getting that weird pop sound in between shots. it sounds like its misfiring but im not getting any drop-offs or dry shots. although it does seem to kick more when it "pops". what is causing this?
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06-04-2008, 12:00 PM
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#12
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Read the manual!!
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: OK
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make sure the rocket cap is tighten all the way
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06-04-2008, 12:33 PM
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#13
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cixelsyd
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: An Attic
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Is there anyway to get a striped trigger pivot screw out?
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06-04-2008, 01:21 PM
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#14
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Daiguren Hyōrinmaru
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Northern VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamer565
make sure the rocket cap is tighten all the way
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the cap has been tightened on all my test runs. two separate tests, one straight from the box (orings were dry), then after it was relubed and it still makes that "pop". i made sure the it was tightened but not to the point where i struggle to get it off.
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06-04-2008, 01:30 PM
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#15
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Read the manual!!
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: OK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azndragon2222
the cap has been tightened on all my test runs. two separate tests, one straight from the box (orings were dry), then after it was relubed and it still makes that "pop". i made sure the it was tightened but not to the point where i struggle to get it off.
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is the bolt cycling all the way when it does these "pop"?
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06-04-2008, 02:53 PM
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#16
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What rhymes with Orange?
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Stone Ridge, VA
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Are you using the stock spring or Lurker's spring? I'm working late today and tomorrow, I may PM you tomorrow if I can get home at a reasonable hour and have you stop by to pop in the ram from my Ripper 3 and see if that fixes it. The other thing that crossed my mind is that it could be your solenoid starting to die.
__________________
_____________________________
PEV'S PAINTBALL
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06-04-2008, 04:02 PM
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#17
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Daiguren Hyōrinmaru
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Northern VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lopez17
Are you using the stock spring or Lurker's spring? I'm working late today and tomorrow, I may PM you tomorrow if I can get home at a reasonable hour and have you stop by to pop in the ram from my Ripper 3 and see if that fixes it. The other thing that crossed my mind is that it could be your solenoid starting to die.
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im not quite sure what kind of spring is in this thing...my only issue is if you have a place we can shoot paint. cuz it only happens when i shoot paint. also, are there any talltale signs to see if the noid is dying?
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06-04-2008, 04:03 PM
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#18
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Daiguren Hyōrinmaru
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Northern VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamer565
is the bolt cycling all the way when it does these "pop"?
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and yes, the bolt is cycling all the way...it shoots fine but that "pop" sound just doesnt sound right. plus its kickin more when it "pops"
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06-04-2008, 04:16 PM
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#19
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Read the manual!!
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: OK
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do you have a aftermarket board?
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06-04-2008, 04:37 PM
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#20
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What rhymes with Orange?
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Stone Ridge, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azndragon2222
im not quite sure what kind of spring is in this thing...my only issue is if you have a place we can shoot paint. cuz it only happens when i shoot paint. also, are there any talltale signs to see if the noid is dying?
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If you can, open the valve and take the rocket cap off as well as the spring and take a picture.
If need be, we can take a quick drive and shoot in the woods behind the elementary school here in Stone Ridge.
__________________
_____________________________
PEV'S PAINTBALL
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06-04-2008, 08:58 PM
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#21
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Daiguren Hyōrinmaru
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Northern VA
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sorry for the poor quality (taken with a camera phone)
and is this replacable (this happened two days AFTER i did testing)?
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