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Old 05-18-2008, 02:10 AM #1
erayser
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Proto SLG Sticky thread

All SLG's use COCKER threaded barrels, Matrix threaded feednecks, and can be run off HP or LP tanks
Can you use Co2 on a SLG?
THE PROTO SLG WILL WORK FINE WITH EITHER HP OR LP COMPRESSED AIR TANKS. FOR THE LOVE OF GOD DO NOT USE CO2.
Discussion thread: http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2429180

Knowing your marker
MANUAL:

SLG Manual: download


09 SLG UL Manual: download

What are all the differences between the Proto SLG's:
Comparison Chart
08 slg and slg 09 basic
09 proto SLG UL and 09 proto SLG

Known issues:
[b]09 SLG doesn't turn on after changing out the factory Proto battery with a Duracell or Energizer battery:{b]
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3114068
SLG gotchas (Information)
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2425577

SLG Upgrades thread (written by gun slayer):
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2876127

Official SLG Appraisal Thread
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3576921

Magnet Mod ideas:
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...6#post44406206
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...1#post45709621

09 SLG Review thread
Proto Paintball - 09 SLG
Proto Paintball - Super Light Gun (SLG)
Proto Paintball - Ultralight SLG
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2869124
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2881767
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2861406
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2415987
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...1#post41179121

SLG Video Review!
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2423142
Direct link:
http://link.brightcove.com/services/...ctid1283222219

What is the difference between the Hyper2 and Hyper3
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thorpydo View Post
The diameter has been decreased and the spring stack has been optimized for the pressure range. The changes are not drastic, but why should they be when the hyper2 already works very well.
Step By Step for Changing modes on your SLG
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2756502

=========

09 SLG with UL Frame



Introduction price retails for UNKNOWN.




http://protoslg.info/

HOW MUCH:
The SLG Introduction price retails for $250.
The SLG has dropped it's price to $199.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Thorpydo
Looks like the cat is out of the bag.

The SLG will be a great first gun for new players and a great backup gun for experienced players.

The SLG is priced below the PMR at $250.

The marker operates using a spool valve and mechanical solenoid (not a solenoid valve) and a sear. The design is not like a matrix or anything else on the market. There are 3 dynamic o-rings and two parts to the bolt kit: bolt and backcap. The marker is more efficient than any of our other guns but is also a bit louder and has a bit more kick.

The SLG has the Hyper3. No LPR. Wired eyes.

The gripframe is a polymer but is much, much stronger than the PMR gripframe. We learned from our mistakes and I would be very surprised if one ever breaks.

We are planning on making a UL frame for the SLG.

The SLG is a solid marker and we hope you guys like it.
===

BOLT Operation:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thorpydo View Post
An explanation of the operation:

There are two forces on the bolt. A constant rearward force and variable forward force from the dump chamber. At rest, the chamber is full and the bolt wants to go forward. The sear is dropped; bolt goes forward. It continues to go forward until the valve opens to shoot the ball. When the valve opens, the chamber starts to empty and the forward force decreases. It decreases enough so that the constant rearward force is now larger than the forward force. The net force is now reward and the bolt returns. When the bolt is rearward, the chamber fills and the bolt wants to go forward again. The sear goes up and holds the bolt for the next shot.

As said, the button on the back simply vents the chamber to atmosphere, reducing forward force so that bolt returns rearward.
courtesy of MIRODASC


===
VIDEOS
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhoenixLancer View Post
Sup ya;ll!!

I think this is the post you all have been waiting for!!

Pictures of Proto SLG, Inside and Out!

And i also just finished the almost 4 minute video of me taking it apart and showing it off!

Taking apart the SLG

Let me know and keep in mind on the Vid, i made it with the camera propped up on a chair and my roommate is playing wow in the background! Good times! ENjoy!
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhoenixLancer View Post
I have posted recently two videos of my slg...One with paint, one without...

Both are good quality and the second vid is the SLG on nxl maxed bps w/eyes...

Pretty sweet little gun, Great backup!!

Enjoy the vids!!


===

I know the grip frame is Polymer, but is the Backcap the same as the stock PMR?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thorpydo View Post
Backcap is aluminum, not composite.
===

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdodd View Post
SLG Medium parts kit contents:

10 x 005
05 x 007
10 x 011
10 x 012
10 x 013
10 x 014
05 x 015
10 bolt bumpers
10 x 016
05 x 020
3 button sets
2 sear springs
6 eye cover screws
5 grip frame screws
5 grip panel screws
6 ball detents (rubber)
2 trigger springs
1 ring (replaceable bolt part)
1 sear
1 battery connector
1 microswitch
1 eye set

I just went left to right and top to bottom reading the compartments but im sure you can figure out whats what, if not just ask.

Pro
Plenty of o-rings
Nice having parts that wear over time (bolt bumper / sear / ring)
all the wiring is handy to have

con
Ball detents are older rubber style
1 set of eyes as opposed to 2 (like my m8 kit)
The microswitch / springs are stock style and are icky.

Im very glad I bought this kit, makes me feel extra safe at a field in case they don't have a part I need. I snagged a spare set of spring detents from my m8 kit so that rounded out well.

Hope this helps, post here if you have any questions.

J
====

Last edited by lamorte : 03-26-2011 at 05:07 PM.
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Old 05-18-2008, 02:18 AM #2
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You were bored? Nice thread tho, maybe it will help
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Old 05-18-2008, 02:33 AM #3
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nahh the first one had over 2000 post and i guess once it reaches that number, the thread gets closed.
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Old 05-18-2008, 09:08 AM #4
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Sticky.
So this thread moves faster than our OT thread.
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Old 05-18-2008, 09:17 AM #5
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Ohh well, a nice fresh thread!

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Old 05-18-2008, 09:39 AM #6
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Ok re-stuck...Also I finally got to play with my SLG yesterday. I was quite impressed with it.

For a $200 it shot great. Its light, fast, and efficent. It did however have more kick then I was used to and it was qhite loud too. Over all though it was a good gun and one I would suggest to any new player or someone looking for a cheap electro.

later
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Old 05-18-2008, 10:17 AM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gremlin75 View Post
it was qhite loud too.
gremlin
mine was loud too until i got a 14 inch cp barrel. now its pretty quiet.
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Old 05-18-2008, 12:33 PM #8
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ya its a loud gun but for 200 its an exceptionally well good deal
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Old 05-18-2008, 01:57 PM #9
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As far as noise goes I came from a VS2 so this is a HUGE improvement. =)
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Old 05-18-2008, 03:52 PM #10
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couldent we just make this a owners group thread? i mean its gonna be the same thing
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Old 05-18-2008, 03:54 PM #11
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SLG's aren't that loud..
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Old 05-18-2008, 05:24 PM #12
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yay new thread,

now we get to reanswer all the 10 billion questions from the last thread.

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........................................_\........ ..._,-%.......`\...............
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^ somebody with too much time on their hands made that from this:

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Old 05-18-2008, 06:53 PM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by be.clutch View Post
SLG's aren't that loud..
yea i came for a tippy which hurt my ear if i shot it to close to my face. so the SLG makes like zero noise.
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Old 05-18-2008, 09:39 PM #14
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kinda a stupid question here but whats the best bore size i wanna get a 14 cp but i dunno whats the best bore and btw i dont realy care about noise.
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Old 05-18-2008, 09:45 PM #15
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There is no "best bore size" Some people like a big bore like a 691 so that they can shoot just about any sixe paint. Others like to have several different bore sizes to match the different kinds of paint better. But there is not all and mighty "Best bore"

later
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Old 05-18-2008, 09:45 PM #16
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^^^ .693 14 inch CP. best barrel.
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Old 05-18-2008, 11:37 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gremlin75 View Post
There is no "best bore size" ...
True, very true...

I am an engineer and have manufacturing background so im going to try to apply some things I have learned to this topic.

Paintballs are not anywhere near uniform, they vary in size, shape, shell thickness etc. They are made from soft products that are sensitive to heat and moisture so trying to bore size paintballs is a novel idea but a good idea is where it stops. People take 1, 2 , 6, hell maybe even 20 paintballs out of a box of 2000 to test for bore size. This is after they have sat indoor at constant temperature and moisture. You then take them out, expose them to air and the environment. So assuming your sample is a accurate representation is foolish and by the standards of my profession wrong.

So whats all that mean?
You should overbore, making sure that all your paintballs (small and large) will be able to travel through your barrel with ease. If you try to match you will get low and high shots and have trouble at the chrono and possibly the field.

Proof?
Look at what the pros use, end topic.

How big should I go
The more heat and humidity in your area, the bigger over .690. Trial and error.

If you think im wrong, please post but post thoughtful and detailed responses. If not...be prepaired!

J
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Old 05-18-2008, 11:47 PM #18
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Jdodd is correct.

Paintball sizes will change with different variables throughout the day / time, so there is no true perfect or correct bore size.

Always overbore.
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Old 05-19-2008, 02:11 AM #19
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The problem with over boring is that people over bore to much. When you are shooting paint that is .684 through a barrel that is .693 it is going to effect your efficiency, consistency, and accuracy.

The problem with bore matching is that people do it at the beginning of the day then their paint can and will change size as the day goes on. So that paint that was .684 at 10am is now .687 at 1pm. Now its effecting your consistency, accuracy, and you're getting barrel breaks.

In the 11 years I’ve been playing this game we call a sport the thing I have found that works best is bore match the paint then bore up a little (going 1-2 sizes bigger depending on what barrel you're using). After playing for a couple hours match the paint and bore up a little again (dont forget to re-chrono when ever you make changes to your set up) All this does is get you a close match to the paint while leaving you some room for the retarded balls and changes to the paint due to environment. Might not be perfect but it’s the best of both worlds.

With that said…..The "Over bore VS. Bore matching" discussion has been beaten to death time and time again. The problem is no actual science has ever been applied to paintball. No lab studies have been on paintballs. We know temperature and moisture will effect a paintball but we dont know to exactly what extent it does. And with no signs of amazing scientific lad studies being done to help us any time soon we may never know just how much a paintball will change when the temp goes up 10* and the humidity changes from 10% to 30%. So whats my suggestion?......

Keep this thread the SLG Information thread not the barrel information thread. We have a whole forum dedicated to barrels.
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Old 05-19-2008, 02:54 AM #20
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thats why i bought a barrel kit.
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Old 05-19-2008, 06:28 PM #21
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thanks guys so i guess ill just save up for a kit.
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