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Old 10-05-2008, 01:51 PM #43
kman866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by battlechaser View Post
You mean this..?



The FAQ will appear shortly..
can that thing even shoot?
and great guide!
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Old 10-05-2008, 03:36 PM #44
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thanks.

knowing Doc, that thing COULD probably shoot...
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Old 10-17-2008, 02:00 AM #45
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hey sniper. reviving this thread again. will this pin work?

yeah i'm working on my spump. i'm just waiting on the pump kit from pmp and this. i tried the jb weld mod but i'd much rather have a real pin.

http://www.paintballgateway.com/chitauhiflex.html

or this one?

http://www.paintballgateway.com/wgpaucupseex.html
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Last edited by XxxREDEEMERxxX : 10-17-2008 at 02:04 AM.
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Old 10-17-2008, 05:40 AM #46
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the first one looks like it would, but i'm not sure if the valve spring will fit on the second one.
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Old 10-17-2008, 06:45 AM #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DFSniper View Post
the first one looks like it would, but i'm not sure if the valve spring will fit on the second one.
good, cause i just noticed it says the second one is out of stock. well that's my local shop so i'll just go there and check either way. and if they don't, i always got the jb weld.

thanks again sniper.
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Old 10-17-2008, 08:36 AM #48
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since its local, i would take a stock pin to compare it with and make sure its the same width.
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Old 10-17-2008, 09:29 AM #49
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this is sticky material. an end all faq to making a spump.
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Old 06-01-2009, 10:46 PM #50
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i like this idea, think i mite do it on that body i have
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:51 PM #51
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How about newer Spyders? (MR series)

Yes... I know the last post was about 4 years old, but I am determined on this!

So I read through all of this and about half way through saw a link to this great website.
http://www.freewebs.com/vikingshadow...thestriker.htm
Now it all makes a lot of sense and I read through all the comments, read multiple pages, etc., but will it work on the MR series guns? The new Eko valve seems like it would create a problem for modifying the valve pin in order to disable the blowback. Also, I've double checked everything and I am quite confused on how flattening the valve pin does anything and how taking the o-ring of the striker works- doesn't that make it so that you loose air because it isn't sealed tight? Other than that, I'm going to try it on my old/spare pieces for my MR100 Pro (something is wrong with the valve body and I need to replace it anyway, mine as well do all this in one fell swoop). I'd have it so that it was bolt action, basically the pump, but pulling a bolt (duh ) instead of pumping a handle.
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Old 01-10-2014, 07:45 AM #52
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If this Eko valve is the same as the one in my Opus, it is a bit tricky trying to disable the blowback. Could you post photos of the valve pin and valve body?
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Old 01-10-2014, 07:47 PM #53
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And the pin


I'm kind of unsure, the striker I don't have any qualms about, just the valve pin and such.

EDIT: The picture of the valve pieces all together is not from the mr100 pro, but the premise of it is the same. I didn't realize that when I first put it in. The pin by itself is the one from the mr100 pro though, so it gives you an idea.
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Last edited by Epsidufus : 01-10-2014 at 07:54 PM. Reason: Faulty image/ wrong model
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Old 01-10-2014, 09:54 PM #54
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Helpful guide, props to the OP.
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Old 01-11-2014, 04:21 AM #55
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Take the striker o-ring off to prevent blowback. This is good for a pump.

You need to use a round valve pin to cause less blowback, the old pins have a flat side that you need to fill and smooth, this again is good for a pump.

The newer valve pins are round, therefore the thought is you can use them as is for a pump. The EKO valve has a exhaust hole for blowback, while the older valve might work better as it doesn't have the exhaust for blowback because the pin provided that opening.

My only concern as why it might not work well is that the 08/9 electra works just fine despite using the newer valve pin, but the older valve body. Worth a shot if you ask me especially if you have the parts.


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Old 01-11-2014, 06:53 AM #56
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Yeah, it definitely looks like the same type of valve, though a bit larger. I'll pull my Opus apart tomorrow and show what I did to disable the blowback...plugging that hole isn't enough, unfortunately.
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Old 01-11-2014, 10:29 PM #57
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By circular pin do you mean like this?


And I'm confused on what your saying about the pin to valve body thing. So the Eko valve will not work for a pump because it has an exhaust valve. Is it possible that the exhaust valve will be rendered useless if you use a straight pin without a flat side/etc.?

EDIT: Well then, I was reading over the posts again and realized in the picture of the eko valve body I posted above it actually shows the exhaust point I believe. So your saying I would need a different valve body, like an older version, in order to stop the blowback?
Also, I just realized you kept saying would minimize it... by minimize do you mean stop or lessen the effect of the blowback so that it doesn't fully recock?
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Last edited by Epsidufus : 01-11-2014 at 10:44 PM. Reason: Agnorisis
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Old 01-12-2014, 07:04 AM #58
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Read the vickingshadow guide again, slower. Instead of getting frustrated with your confusion, which its blowing my mind how your getting so confussed I'm going to attempt to just clear it up.

This shows the difference between what makes blow back happen and what doesn't. The part that needs to be round shown on the left, helps prevent blowback. In your case the tighter you make it fit the better. The right shows optimal blowback for this valve, more open space lets more air for blowback pass.


These are both the old style valve pins, which you currently do not have. Hopefully this clears up the confusion as to what is flat and what you would need to make round. The EKO pin isn't flat.


The picture you posted of the EKO is crap, here the picture I used. To be clearer, that is an exhaust vent not "valve" it is part of the valve. The hole on the side isn't a vent, it is just a hole.




This is exactly what I suggested, Like I said there is one problem I can already see and that is clearance around the hole. If you look at the very first picture with the brass valves you can see the left one has a very tight fit between the pin the hole its in , where as mine has a sliver of space around it. This space for the 08/09 electra is enough to keep it recocking at 300-400psi perfectly. I don't have an EKO valve so you would have to look to see how tight that space is around the pin your valve. If its a tight fit in the EKO then I would use it and fill the little hole, if it has space then you still need to mod your valve pin to make a tighter fit.

I only suggested using an older valve because as we discussed in the spyder sub, it still is leaking.




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I'm all out of ideas again and this text is so plain.

I'm still not sure how I feel about this new look.

Last edited by ferret15 : 01-12-2014 at 07:08 AM.
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Old 01-12-2014, 07:43 AM #59
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ferret15 is correct, to an extent. Plugging the blowback port he pointed out on the Eko valve will greatly reduce the blowback pressure, but in my experience that still isn't quite enough.

My Opus still had enough blowback to half-cycle the bolt with each shot. I ended up modifying my valve to have an o-ring that sealed around the pin to completely block the gases. It seems to work fine, but it makes the valve rather ugly. I may try to re-do it with my spare valve and pin.
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Old 01-12-2014, 09:35 AM #60
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Okay, that makes much more sense. Thanks for the clear up. I have not been around the internals of paintball guns for years, only a couple months, so terms and pieces that are "common knowledge" I may not be familiar with. But sweet explanation with the pictures and I will ordering an extra valve body soon (I want to be able to switch from bolt action back to semi fairly easily, just switch out internals). Vike has a page about modding the striker so that bolt can move freely. If I do this stuff with the valve is that still necessary? I feel like it is but I don't want to buy an extra if I don't have to.
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Old 01-12-2014, 09:59 AM #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chasethebarber View Post
, but in my experience that still isn't quite enough.

an o-ring that sealed around the pin
I wasn't too keen on bring that up as the guy doesn't really know whats up or down in making a pump and most people abandon the idea before they start.

As far as the o-ring I agree, but only for the EKO its the best option because of spyders loose tolerance pins. The older pins were tighter, and for 68 cal, I might just use an old pin that was modded instead for his mr-1. Basic Sheridan markers have worked fine with tight tolerance pins since the forever, the o-ring isn't needed if made right but it can always help. I view as an extra "mod" over the conversion.


The spyder EM-1 pin actually looks exactly as you described. Only problem is that its fatter ( I tried) but you could drill the hole the pin sits in to make it fit if you ever found one to use.
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I'm all out of ideas again and this text is so plain.

I'm still not sure how I feel about this new look.
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Old 01-12-2014, 10:09 AM #62
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Yes, slotting the striker is necessary if you intend for the marker to fire from a closed bolt. How much would the new striker cost you? I might have a spare striker I can send you if you just pay the shipping(<$6).
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Old 01-12-2014, 10:09 AM #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Epsidufus View Post
Vike has a page about modding the striker so that bolt can move freely. If I do this stuff with the valve is that still necessary? I feel like it is
You need to slot the striker, or the pump can't pump.
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something something something

I'm all out of ideas again and this text is so plain.

I'm still not sure how I feel about this new look.
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