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Old 04-07-2008, 08:08 PM #1
greatwolf329
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Angel 1 step by step lubing tutorial w/ pics

So I got off of work early and was bored as well as being sick of seeing ‘how to lube my a1’ threads so I decided to make a quick walk through. I take no liability what so ever for you screwing up your marker, this is just an example walk through.

As with all markers, be careful with electronics and orings. As for lubing a light layer is all that is needed(no globbage) replace orings where necessary. And just over all be careful.

Angel 1 Lubing Walk Through



After every case:

1. A few drops of oil into the ASA and dry fire till oil has circulated properly



2. Wipe any excess oil off of bolt



3. Replace bolt and rock faces

Every couple of cases:

Do what is above, then continue onto the ram

1. Remove frame from marker (use care not to damage eye ribbons and noid harness when removing)



2. Remove bolt from breech and then unscrew and remove the back plate



3.remove ram retaining pin and remove ram



3. clean old grease off of ram and lightly regrease




4 carefully replace ram and retaining pin



If you do not wish to lube your regs at this time continue to reassemble your marker. If not read on
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Last edited by greatwolf329 : 06-11-2010 at 08:24 AM.
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Old 04-07-2008, 08:08 PM #2
greatwolf329
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HPR

1. remove reg end cap as shown



2. remove velocity adjustment screw ( use caution not to loose the ball bearing inside)



3.using a threaded rod or a small screw, rmove the mini reg assembly as shown



4 remove old lube and don’t loose the ball bearing from inside the assemble. Set it aside for now.

4. using clip pliers remove c clip on assebmbly



5. with a slight tap, remove piston and shim stack



remove old lube and lightly relube and reassemble the reg in reverse order making sure your shim stack is stacked and oriented properly
LPR

Remove noid housing and remove noid from marker




Remove LPR chamber plug




Remove lpr retaining pin

Using threaded rod remove lpr piston, spacer/assembly with shims (only the piston needs to be lubed, i only took the rest of it out because i was doing a whole breakdown)



Remove old lube and replace with a new light layer

Replace lpr assembly making sure your shim stack is stacked right and making sure you don’t loose the flat shims, replace the lpr retaining pin

Replace chamber plug



Replace noid, noid cover and finish reassembling marker

Now go out and mow faces



If I’m missing stuff I will add it just pm me.
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Last edited by greatwolf329 : 06-11-2010 at 08:29 AM.
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Old 04-07-2008, 08:13 PM #3
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nicely done! this should help alot of people
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Old 04-07-2008, 08:16 PM #4
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im hoping it will. i say doc did one in words and i thought pics would help
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Old 04-07-2008, 08:19 PM #5
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Wow, great job.

After some more input from the other A1 owners (as far as if anything needs to be added or changed), we'll add this to the Ultimate Sticky.

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Old 04-07-2008, 09:17 PM #6
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sticky!
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Old 04-07-2008, 09:54 PM #7
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Perfect!
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Old 04-07-2008, 10:04 PM #8
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A+++ Great job man.
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Old 04-07-2008, 10:23 PM #9
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Originally Posted by Ka24de-t View Post
A+++ Great job man.
~~~~A++++++++++++++++++++++ TRADER WILL BUY AGAIN AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA+++++++++++++~~~~

Couldn't resist. Good guide, man.
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Old 04-07-2008, 11:10 PM #10
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great post ... it helps a lot
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Old 04-08-2008, 12:06 AM #11
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Nice post, but it should be noted that you can get away with just lubing the reg pistons (no need to pull the whole LPR) and the thing will still run like a top. I do the ram about every 30,000 balls and. The noid gasket and LPR body orings only need to be done once every year or two if that.

BTW your A1 has an eery resemblance to mine. Pictures are in the sig. The resemblance has only grown since those pictures were taken and I ditched the stock on/off and got a stiff tip.
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Old 04-08-2008, 01:17 AM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poopresearch View Post
Nice post, but it should be noted that you can get away with just lubing the reg pistons (no need to pull the whole LPR) and the thing will still run like a top.
Was just going to say the same thing. Removing the entire LPR body isn't necessary at regular intervals - just the piston. A full breakdown once or twice a year is the only time you really need to go to all the trouble. Good guide though
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Old 04-08-2008, 03:54 PM #13
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great job! stickY!!!!
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Old 04-08-2008, 04:13 PM #14
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Sticky!
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Old 04-08-2008, 04:41 PM #15
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thanks guys, doc and poop, i took note of your statements, and will continue to make little changes i see or that are brought to my attention
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Old 04-08-2008, 04:46 PM #16
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Added to the Ultimate Sticky.

Very well done.
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Old 04-08-2008, 05:19 PM #17
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Nice! I have that same Husky wrench set except ball-ended Your A1 looks hot, I was going to get gold parts, JOY grips and the JOY stiffi for mine, but got lazy and had it laser engraved. Glad I got to see what it would have looked like.
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Old 04-08-2008, 05:24 PM #18
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HUGE to you for this thread. Helps me a ton.
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Old 04-09-2008, 08:39 PM #19
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Hey I hope you don't mind me asking but where did you get the "delrin plunger" on your ram from? How well does it work, I would imagine that you would get allot less kick. Are they for sale somewhere online?
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Old 04-10-2008, 12:20 AM #20
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my hammer is a rated plastic i use at work as a buffer between metal parts, so i drafted my hammer out and c&c'd it if the off time. you can find delrin ones out here but id say just wait till magno internals are available as i've not had the best of experiences one i tried out there. so id say just get the magno's and you'l be set
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Old 04-10-2008, 01:46 AM #21
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You can also just file or lathe down your stock hammer too. crownsk8er and chris71383 both used to make nylon hammers, but I don't know if either one of them still does.
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