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Old 11-20-2004, 03:54 PM #43
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How to convert your gz trigger frame into a lcd clamshell timmy.


Here goes.

1. a Lcd screen

2. lcd membrane

3. 12 point eye harness with 3 plug prong

4. a new trigger

5. screws

7. a lastly a lcd clamshell

all pictures curtesy of www.paintballkingdom.com
and
http://www.technatrigger.com/products/

Last edited by kidcopone : 11-20-2004 at 04:06 PM.
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Old 11-20-2004, 04:31 PM #44
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Should like very similiar to this
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Old 11-23-2004, 07:03 PM #45
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Quote:
Originally posted by ballbusters86
COPIED THIS FROM ELTWITCHO ON PBREVIEW.COM

Apply some white lithium grease to your fingertip and spread it all over the bolt. The center area that is thin and does not contact the marker body does not need to be lubricated. Apply enough grease so that you have just enough that you can see the grease on the bolt, but not so much that the bolt is coated in an overly thick layer (this will 'cause your bolt to gum up and give you screwy velocity readings).
As a collegue of a BLAST tech, NEVER EVER use white lithium grease on ANY of the orings on your Bob Long Intimidator. This kind of grease, no matter what brand, contains compounds that decompose the urethane in the orings, leaving you vulnerable to leaks and marker malfunctions.

Only use Dow 55 on the ram. Dow 55 is an oring swellant that helps create a better seal in the ram tube, therefore making the marker more effcient and protecting the ram orings. Never apply this grease to the bolt.

Terry Fong (world-famous timmy tech for the oakland assassins) told me to use Tri Flow on my bolt. Yes, even on the delrin bolts. Dow 33 isn't as good and isn't that effective as a lubricant for the intimidator bolts. Tri Flow has Teflon in the formula and creates an ultra-slick surface for the bolt.

Please do not use white lithium grease!!!!!! I've seen and had to repair over 40 guns that have had this problem.

I'm not trying to break ballbuster86's balls, I'm just saying that all of the general Pbnation population needs to be a little more careful when posting potentially untrue information.
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Last edited by manike : 12-28-2004 at 03:27 PM.
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Old 02-10-2005, 11:50 AM #46
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Since I've seen so many threads on solenoids leaking and people buying new noids, I've decided to make this tutorial. This is on an alias style solenoid. The only difference i have seen is the difference in cap colors.

PLEASE NOTE: I am not responsible for your actions if your gun breaks and/or does not work properly after this tutorial. DO AT OWN RISK!!

Step 1
Unscrew the 2 screws on the side with the ALL WHITE cap (or black cap for older style solenoids), NOT the side with metal. Do not touch the side with the metal cap. There is no need to. Now, back to the tutorial...
Here is a picture of what side to take apart.


Step 2
This is what you will have after taking the cap off.


and here is the inside of the cap. make sure the small o-ring doesnt fall out.


Step 3
now take needle nose pliers and pull the spool out of the solenoid. If the spool is flush with the solenoid body, take a small screwdriver and push the spool out through on of the hols on the side of the noid.


Here is the spool out of the solenoid.


Step 4
Clean the old lube off of the spool with a towel.


Step 5
Re lube LIGHTLY with dow 33 or 55.

Step 6
Push Spool back into solenoid (doesnt matter which way)


Step 7
It's time to out the cap back on. Make sure the very small o-ring on the cap is on the side lined up with the hole on the solenoid. Here are pictures to help:



Step 8
Screw the 2 screws back in


And thats it!
You end up with a working solenoid


A lot easier then you thought, huh?
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Last edited by jec1521 : 04-20-2005 at 03:10 PM.
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Old 02-15-2005, 04:23 PM #47
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Ut Oh

Broken barb!?

Hey guys.. little bit of info for everyone that may or may not come into play whiel taking apart your timmy...

As we all know sometimes with newer hoses it is hard to remove them from a barb or two. If you break the threads right off of it... don't panic! Thus leaving you with half a barb stuck in your gun. Simply put... it happens, and to solve this.. use a little philips head screwdriver, for example.. one you would use to fix your glasses.

So you have your screw driver, the gun and a little bit o elbow grease. Be careful if you start to break pieces of the barb that they do not fall into th ram tube or the reg adapter. Next clean out all the locktite with a Q-tip and even a little bit of alcohol if your a clean freak with your gun.



Carney
~M.O.D.~


P.S. Try to come across a wrench to take off barbs. This problem happens most when people slip with a pair of needle noses.

Product- Hyperflow barbs. Or the Hybrid barbs.. Stainless steel- Guarentees no breaks.
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Old 02-24-2005, 09:47 AM #48
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Old 02-24-2005, 11:54 AM #49
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25g Switch on 2k4 Frenzy

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...hreadid=857565

Last edited by paintballer187 : 08-06-2006 at 04:08 PM.
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Old 02-28-2005, 04:23 PM #50
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Some Usefull Information

Tadao 2K4 Thread (infamous board)

Bob Long 2k5 Frame FAQ's

Last edited by raymius : 02-28-2005 at 10:03 PM.
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Old 03-28-2005, 02:27 PM #51
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http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...hreadid=905436

Never buy o-ring kits again.
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Old 04-06-2005, 08:55 PM #52
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EVERYTHING IN A TIMMY
1 Body BODY
1 Reg Body REG BODY
1 Complete LPR LPR
1 Inline Regulator INLINE REG
1 Clamshell grip frame OR bob long 2k5 frame FRAME
1 LCD screen LCD
1 Membrane switch MEMBRANE
1 14 point harness 14 POINT HARNESS
1 12 point eye harness 12 POINT HARNESS
1 Board BOARD
1 Pair of eyes EYES
1 Solenoid SOLENOID
3 Barbs including 3 on the solenoid and 3 on the gun BARBS
3 Pieces of hose HOSE
1 Trigger TRIGGER
1 Trigger Guard TRIGGER GAURD
1 Bolt BOLT
1 Ram RAM
1 Ram sleve RAM SLEVE
1 Poppet POPPET AND CUP SEAL
1 Cup seal
1 Poppet Spring
1 Ram cap. RAM CAP
1 Reg body to body screw
1 Screw to keep the board in
1 Jam nut to keep the Ram tube in
1 Screw to hold the trigger into the clamshell ALL SCREWS
2 On/off Switch screws
2 Microswitch Screws
1 Gauge GAUGE
2 DetentsDETENTS

I would like to thank bradyspaintball.com, criticalpaintball.com and technatrigger.com for the pics.
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Old 02-06-2006, 08:05 PM #53
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for all the timmy noobs out there having trouble finding out whats what. paint messed up the pic when saved it.
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Old 04-14-2006, 10:42 PM #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I play paintball




for all the timmy noobs out there having trouble finding out whats what. paint messed up the pic when saved it.
the eyes are universal. they can go on either side.

Also that is not a trigger bearing. That is just a trigger screw. The function trigger has no bearings.
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Old 04-15-2006, 12:10 AM #55
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What to do when you need to send your gun to BLAST:
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1498283
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Old 05-06-2006, 01:52 AM #56
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What lubes you can/can't use, and where to use them:
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1525551
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Old 05-10-2006, 04:32 PM #57
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Full Solenoid breakdown
Quote:
Originally Posted by meshaq27
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Last edited by drefish99 : 05-10-2006 at 04:47 PM.
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Old 06-15-2006, 07:30 PM #58
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AIR


Air Pressure:
Question: When the system is first filled with air everything is fine. However, if the system sits for several minutes the first few balls have no velocity as they come out of the barrel. The problem goes away as I continue to shoot. What should I do to correct this problem?
Answer: Need to take the vertical regulator apart and relube the o-rings as described in the owners manual . Then reassemble the vertical regulator.

Question: The velocity of my Intimidator is inconsistent. Every shot varies 20 to 50 fps, what should I do?
Answer: Barrels and paint need to match in order to achieve a constant velocity, likewise a quality primary regulator (bottle reg) is required to achieve any sort of consistent flow at high rates of fire. Having a properly maintained and lubed LPR and HPR on the gun also make a difference.

Question: Can I use a 450 psi output crossfire nitrogen tank on my GZ?
Answer: Yes, 450 PSI fixed output regs are considered “low pressure” and are the preferred style for all Bob Long markers. However you can also use a “high pressure output fixed reg”, but there is more risk of solenoid and hose damage with this option.

Question: I was wondering if I need to make any changes with the dwell settings (or any other settings) to convert my Intimidator to a low pressure system?
Answer: No changes are needed when installing a low pressure conversion on an Intimidator

Question: Sometimes when I gas up my Bob Long Marker there is a slight air leak down the barrel. My tank pressure gauge goes back and forth from 500 to 450 psi in a swaying motion. What should I do?
Answer: Relube the internals with Dow 55. However, your pressure should be 300 to 350 psi, not 450 to 500 psi. After relubing the internals, if there is still a slight leak, fire the marker and this should seal it up.

Question: I just bought a 2002 Intimidator and I cannot get the gun to achieve high pressure. What am I doing wrong?
Answer: This may be due to an improper installation of the macroline/steel hose to your vertical inline regulator. Try flipping your input hose to the opposite side of the vertical regulator. If the problem persists, contact your nearest service center or call BL tech support.

Air Efficiency:
Question: I was wondering how good the air efficiency generally is on Bob Long markers?
Answer: There will be some variation especially between the Defiant II which runs at a higher pressure, and between the 05 and 06 models of the Intimidators. However Bob Long markers on the whole are considered to be relatively air efficient, and as a general reference, a 2K5 style Intimidator will average about 1300 shots on a low pressure 68/4500 tank.


ELECTRONICS AND SETTINGS


Hopper Trigger Setting:
Question: I've figured out what most of my settings do except for the Hopper Trigger selection. What does this setting do?
Answer: The "Hopper Trigger" program only pertains to players using a Warp Feed.

Dwell Settings:
Question: What are the dwell settings for my solenoid?
Answer: The green/black wire solenoids come factory set with a dwell setting of 16. The black/black wire solenoids come factory set with a dwell setting of 8. Changing these settings in not recommended.

Firing Modes:
Question: I am not receiving a mode menu when I power up my Bob Long marker, so I cannot change the firing modes.
Answer: For all 05 and 06 markers that use the grip with the LCD in the palm area, you press both the “1” and “2” buttons simultaneously to get to the “Menu” screen. Toggle through the screen using the “1” button. Once you get to the “Comp Mode” screen, you may toggle through the options that are offered on your specific board version.

Dip Switch Settings:
Questions: The dip switch settings in my owner's manual are only for LCD version 1.4.3 and I have LCD vesion 2.0.2B. What are the correct settings for my marker?
Answer: Please visit the downloads section where you can access various manual updates and technical documents.
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Last edited by paintballer187 : 06-30-2006 at 11:52 PM.
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Old 08-02-2006, 06:06 PM #59
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Alias Style Intimidator Schematics:
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Old 08-06-2006, 04:03 PM #60
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this is to the guy that did the noid breakdown

NEVER USE DOW 55 ON THE NOID SPOOL! IT WILL SWELL THE ORINGS AND DISALLOW IT TO CYCLE!
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Old 08-25-2006, 04:43 PM #61
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PBR/PBN/IOG Help List:
http://timmyhelplist.blogspot.com/20...help-list.html
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Old 11-08-2006, 10:12 AM #62
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Batman 5-0 plays in the APPA D4 division
How to: Fix body puncture guide

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...1#post28118036
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Old 01-13-2007, 04:14 PM #63
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Intimidator Cleaning / Maintenance Guide - Add it
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