Find fields & stores near you!
Find fields and stores
Zipcode
PbNation News
PbNation News
Community Focus
Community Focus

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 10-12-2001, 03:35 AM #1
Syph
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Louisville, KY
Syph is a Supporting Member
 has been a member for 10 years
Lightbulb FAQ\Manuals\Upgrades\Settings\Modification\Problem so

As requested, here's your sticky thread for FAQ's, Maintenance Guides, Tips, Tricks, Modifications.. all that jive.

I'll let you guys start posting the stuff so it doesn't look like I'm trying to steal your thunder... Since I get to be the evil moderator (grin) I'm gonna wipe out the usual chat posts, so try to keep it down..

Enjoy.

- Answers to "What upgrades should I get?"

- BLAST's Address and Phone Number

- Board Manuals

- G6R ASA Pin Update

- Gen1/2/3 to/from Gen4 Parts Compatibility

- Gen4 Settings Thread

- Gen4 Valve Purging

- How to: Build a Timmy

- How to: Disassemble and Clean A Solenoid

- How to: Distinguish and LP Poppet vs A Stock Poppet

- How to: Figure out what feedneck your gun uses

- How to: Fix a puncture in your body (caused by the front frame screw)

- How to: Fix your 2k4 style membrane pad

- How to: Fully Adjust your Bob Long Leverlock Feedneck (include stock Vice feedneck)

- How to: Guide to 2k5ing a gun

- How to: Install A Volumizer

- How to: Install New Eyes into a Protege or Vice

- How to: Install the Low Pressure Valve into a Protege or Vice

- How to: Maintain a Protege/Vice

- How to: Properly Set your HPR & LPR

- How to: Remove a Species Bolt Pin

- How to: Removing LP hoses and barbs

- Intimidator Weights (which is lightest)

- Is HP or LP better?

- O-Ring Size Guide, Alias

- Official Timmy Part Swapping thread

- Official Project/Upgrade/Build, Update Thread

- Photo Shop and anno thread

- Problem Solver(in progress) have a problem? Post here.

- Pulse RF Chip and board compatibility guide

- Settings thread

- Technical Videos

- Timmy Library

- Trigger bearing mods (pics)

- ULTIMATE Intimidator LUBE Sticky!

- VS Threads

Last edited by paintballer187 : 06-28-2012 at 07:11 PM.
Syph is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Sponsored Links Remove Advertisement
Advertisement
Old 10-12-2001, 09:48 AM #2
Morphious
 
 
Morphious's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Texas
 has been a member for 10 years
I have my sig to offer!
Morphious is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2001, 02:04 PM #3
defiance
 
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Little Rock, AR
 has been a member for 10 years
Just noting that someone will soon be taking my place in maintaining the Intimidator FAQ... Sorry, I've reached a point where spare time is at a premium, and as such, can't continue to maintain it myself... As I'm sure you've noticed from the lack of updates in quite some time... For the time being, the link in Morphious's sig is correct, but I believe the new mainainer will be moving it. I'll post more info as soon as it's final.
__________________
"...I question the contributions of some of the named inventors, specifically Billy Gardner and Adam Gardner..."
"...the evidence strongly suggests that neither Billy nor Adam could have invented what is claimed."
"As with the lack of any documentation of the Gardnrs' work, Billy and Adam Gardner's testimony regarding thier own contributions does not suggest the work of inventors."

U.S. District Judge Garr M. King, Re: Smart Parts' patent on electronic paintball markers
defiance is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2001, 07:10 PM #4
ballbusters86
Avatar Free
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Austin, TX
 has been a member for 10 years
COPIED THIS FROM ELTWITCHO ON PBREVIEW.COM

Well, after hearing countless stories from people who've had their guns die on them, and then helping through the problem to a solution, based on the solutions I've determined that almost 100% of an intimidators problems come from improper maintenance of your gun. Things like dirt, missing o-rings, scratched o-rings, bent valve pins and the like are caused by not looking after your gun. So I took it upon myself to write a step by step guide on maintaining the intimidator. This is regular maintenance for me, though you may decide not to do all the steps listed (at your own risk of course). I did promise pictures, and pictures there will be, tomorow though, at the momeny my digital cameras batteries are dead (crying shame it is). So without further ado, here we have it.

Tools needed

Before you can maintain your marker, you will need to collect the following

-Imperial Allen Key Set
-White Lithium Grease ( tube or can)
-3/8 socket wrench
-Rag (not paper towel, it will fall apart and get fibers in your gun, and possibly your solenoid)
-Squeegee, must have a cloth attachment

Clean off Paint

This is pretty self explanatory. Wipe the gun down and get rid of any paint dirt or shell on the gun

The Bolt

Pull the pin on top of your bolt. This will disconect the bolt from your hammer and you can now slide it out the rear of your gun. Wipe off all the old grease and dirt that is on the bolt. get the bolt nice and clean. Inspect your o-rings for knicks and scratches. If there is damage to any of your o-rings, replace them promptly. Apply some white lithium grease to your fingertip and spread it all over the bolt. The center area that is thin and does not contact the marker body does not need to be lubricated. Apply enough grease so that you have just enough that you can see the grease on the bolt, but not so much that the bolt is coated in an overly thick layer (this will 'cause your bolt to gum up and give you screwy velocity readings). There will be a pic on approximately how much to put on. Before reinserting the bolt, take a squeegee and run it through the body of the marker. This should wipe up some of the old grease that now ahs dirt in it (and will wear down your markers internals). Do not reinsert the bolt yet, there is still another step before it is ready

The hammer

Using only your hands, remove the cap at the rear of your markers body. You will need only remove the thin part that unscrews from the markers body. To remove, just grip (put a cloth over it if necessary for more grip) it with your hands and turn counterclockwise. It is a bit tough to remove the first time, but should come out very easy afterwards. Turning the cap no longer causes it to back out your gun, just grab it and pull it out. Now tilt your gun so that the back (where you just removed the cap) is facing downwards. your hammer will pop right out. If it does not, push it out from the top of the marker (the slot where the bolt pin goes through) with something, a pencil will work. Wipe down the hammer with the rag and inspect the o-rings. These o-rings are integral to the markers function and it is very important that these o-rings are in good shape. If you see any nicks or cuts remove the o-ring and replace. These o-rings will wear down periodically, so make sure you check them well. Relube the hammer in a manner similar to how you lubed the bolt. Being sure to apply a good coat over the o-rings especially. Reinsert the hammer (the thin end goes in first) being careful to observe that it goes in properly. You have to get the thin end to go into a smaller diameter tube in the front of the rams housing, so if the hammer does not slide all the way into the gun, it is not in this tube properly. Just trial and error should work to get it in correctly. Get the cap that seals off the hammer housing tube, and be sure to apply a generous amount of white lithium grease to the o-ring in front of the threads. This will help the marker seal properly and your cap will not come loose as easily. Turn the cap clockwise tightening as tight as possible but only using your hands, do not use a wrench.

Bolt reinsertion

This takes some practice but after time it will be like second nature. Reinsert the bolt into the gun mking sure to align the pin with the slot in the hammer. It is tough to see, but you should be able to feel when you've done it properly. If you'd like to be sure, there is an easy way to check. Look down your feed tube from above and move the bolt all the way back, it should come far enough abck so that you can just barely see the end of the bolt. Your bolt all the way forwards, the forward o-ring should just pass out of view before the bolt stops moving. If your bolt cannot complete this range of motion, the hammer/bolt pin are not lined up properly. Pushing down on the hammer and wiggling should help a little

Regulator Maintenance

Now comes the part that scares some new intimidator owners, so they avoid this and end up having problems with their gun. But reg maintenance is neither difficult, nor is it easy to mess up. Now, for those that havent done the LP mod, they will have to perform maintenance on both the top and bottom regs, but if you have done the LP mod, you only need to worry about the bottom reg. They are both the same for the purpose of maintenance though, so the method described will work with either. First of all, grab the reg housing (the silver tube) with your hand and turn counter-clockwise. If the reg cannot be removed by hand, take your allen key and back out (turn counter-clockwise) the pressure adjustment screw located on the front of your reg in a manner that is similar as you would do if you were turning the pressure on your reg down. This will reduce spring tension inside the reg and you should be able to remove the regulator by hand. Now that you have the reg off, you will need to remove the pressure adjustment screw entirely. When removed, you will have a nice hole in the front of your reg. using your allen key inserted into this hole, push the piston out the back of your reg( push the allen key in, all the stuff should pop out) and the piston, spring and washer should come out. Take your rag and clean out the inside walls of the regulator. Wipe down the spring and piston as well. Check the o-ring on the piston, if there are scratches, you know what to do. Relube the piston AND spring (the spring moves against the walls of the reg when it compresses, and this will also spread more lube inside the reg) well. Now, reinsert the parts of the reg. The order should be, washer first, then spring (doesnt matter which direction it faces) and then the piston. The piston must be inserted facing the correct diretion though. The end that has a wider little "nubb" on the face should be facing towards the back of your reg, or towards your gun. Push the parts in by hand. Reainsert the adjustment screw in the front of the reg by turning it clockwise. Do not put the reg back on the gun yet, there is more to do.

Pin Valves

Another critical area of your gun, yet one that is simple to maintain. using a 3/8 socket wrench, remove the retention nut that is holding the pin valve in. (This is located on your gun body, where the reg you just removed was formerly mounted). Just unscrew the nut by hadn when it is out far enough to grip. When the nut comes off, the pin will also come out. It is under a small bit of pressure, so be careful it does not fly off. Take a look at the pin itself to make sure there are no chips or bends in the pin, or your marker will malfunction. Now look at the o-rings on the base of the pin. There should be 1 white o-ring, and one black o-ring. Both must be in very good condition for your marker to function. This area shouldnt get too dirty, but a little wipedown will not hurt anything. If the o-rings are damaged, replace imediately. Apply a thin coat of lube to the pin itself as well as the o-rings and reinsert into the marker then reatach the retention nut. Do not overtighten. Now reatach the regulator that was removed earlier.

Your inline reg

Inline regs will differ in design, so the only thing I can say here is clean and lube, and if in doubt, may as well clean that part and lube it as well. Your inline reg is just as important to the markers fucntioning as the parts inside the marker itself, so keep it in good shape, and check those o-rings.

You're done, But A Little Something On Grease

I've heard alot of horror stories about people lubing their gun with the wrong lubes and I'd like to set the record straight right now. use white lithium grease, not oil, not shocker grease, but white lithium grease. it is cheap and readily available so there is no reason you shouldnt be using it. Go to your hardware store and ask for it by name, they'll be able to find it. That said, the reason not to use oil is that it will blow off the parts and leave them unlubed after just a few shots, while white lithium grease will stick to the markers internals providing lubrication for at least 2 days of play. I find White Lithium grease also has the perfect viscosity for the intimidator, and I wouldnt use any other grease in mine. I suggest you do the same.
__________________
paulg
AIM- PMG1080
"With a condom, barrel sock, whatever you wanna call it, all you get is a gooey mess."

Last edited by ballbusters86 : 10-13-2001 at 07:25 PM.
ballbusters86 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2001, 02:57 AM #5
pr0kch0p
Fat Boys Are Back
 
pr0kch0p's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Oregon
 has been a member for 10 years
sorry, since twitch hasn't posted the link yet, i will, if twitch wants in his name go ahead and delete my post as i am linking to HIS thread.

http://www.pbreview.com/forums/showt...?threadid=8693
__________________
Peace

Blue Fade Intimidator, 68/4500 Max-Attack, Blue 12v Revvy w/ X-Board and BallWhacker Mod, Chrome Drop Zone II, Lightweight Blue Mtn. Delrin Bolt, and More


Intimidator Owners Group Member #019


"As My Ideas Grow, You Shrink", Spongebob Squarepants To His Pencil
pr0kch0p is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2001, 04:21 PM #6
elTwitcho
***** ***** *****
 
elTwitcho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Toronto Canada
 has been a member for 10 years
Quote:
Originally posted by ballbusters86
COPIED THIS FROM ELTWITCHO ON PBREVIEW.COM

Well, after hearing countless stories from people who've had their guns die on them, and then helping through the problem to a solution, based on the solutions I've determined that almost 100% of an intimidators problems come from improper maintenance of your gun. Things like dirt, missing o-rings, scratched o-rings, bent valve pins and the like are caused by not looking after your gun. So I took it upon myself to write a step by step guide on maintaining the intimidator. This is regular maintenance for me, though you may decide not to do all the steps listed (at your own risk of course). I did promise pictures, and pictures there will be, tomorow though, at the momeny my digital cameras batteries are dead (crying shame it is). So without further ado, here we have it....

So long as everyone realises I wrote that...

Anywho, there is also an adendum to that. The poppet....

To grease the poppet assembly, first you must remove the Reg assembly from the marker. If you dont know how to do this, there is a screw holding it to the body that you can get at once you remove the grip frame. It is not the screw that is sunken into the body, it's the other one. Though this is only from memory, I beleive it is the one closest to the front of the marker. Remove this screw and the reg assembly will slide right out. A spring will come out, hold onto this and make sure to note which way it was facing (the narower end faces the poppet, the wider end faces the reg asembly). You may need to disconect the hose from the reg assembly if it's too short and you cant take the assembly off without stretching the hose. Now, grab the bolt, pull it all the way back and then slam it forward. The poppet should come right out. If it doesnt, push the poppet in (towards the marker) with your finger and try again. Grease the poppet and then reassemble. You only realistically have to do this once in a while. The poppet doesnt need a whole lot of maintenance, and my rule of thumb is every 5 cases. People will tell you to do it more, but I've never had any problems, and I've owned my intimidator for almost a year now.

On a side note, Dow 55 also makes an excelent lube for the intimidator. It's actually what Bob recomends, so I assume it's pretty good
__________________
ST:Photo - Trust me, you made a wrong turn

A Haiku about Life - By Secret Asian Man
twitch slaps me around
he likes to make me his *****
Because of small cock
elTwitcho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2001, 08:09 PM #7
pr0kch0p
Fat Boys Are Back
 
pr0kch0p's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Oregon
 has been a member for 10 years
pictures i took today of me greasing up my timmy, notice the ballwhacker mod in the last pic

http://members.dsl-only.net/~kjones/alex/timmy/

i will be appending this page with a step by step guide of how to maintain your timmy, and more detailed info of what each picture is of.

but the order of the pictures goes by elTwitcho's guide, thats what i used to break down by timmy with
__________________
Peace

Blue Fade Intimidator, 68/4500 Max-Attack, Blue 12v Revvy w/ X-Board and BallWhacker Mod, Chrome Drop Zone II, Lightweight Blue Mtn. Delrin Bolt, and More


Intimidator Owners Group Member #019


"As My Ideas Grow, You Shrink", Spongebob Squarepants To His Pencil
pr0kch0p is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2002, 10:29 AM #8
defiance
 
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Little Rock, AR
 has been a member for 10 years
Hooray! The FAQ
http://www.cei.net/~defiance/intimidator_faq.html
has finally been updated again
__________________
"...I question the contributions of some of the named inventors, specifically Billy Gardner and Adam Gardner..."
"...the evidence strongly suggests that neither Billy nor Adam could have invented what is claimed."
"As with the lack of any documentation of the Gardnrs' work, Billy and Adam Gardner's testimony regarding thier own contributions does not suggest the work of inventors."

U.S. District Judge Garr M. King, Re: Smart Parts' patent on electronic paintball markers
defiance is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2002, 08:01 PM #9
Omega6_Virus
Distributor of Pain
 
Omega6_Virus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Wi
 has been a member for 10 years
Just adding this for everyone to read b4 they go posting more questions.
Grease: Bob recommends Dow 55. This does not mean you cannot use Dow 33 or White Lithium grease. I personally use White Lithium because I have it and I dont feel the need to order grease online and I have had no problems.
Gauges: If you plan on doing the Low Pressure mod, you will need 2 gauges. If your inline regulator comes with a gauge, you only need one gauge. You need a 100-300psi gauge for the lp port and a 200-700psi gauge for the hp port(if you inline reg has no gauge port) or on the regulator itself. This are the gauge psi readings that will work with the LP mod. You need at least a 100psi for the lp and a 200psi for the hp or your inline if it does not have a port..
__________________
Dragon Intimidator
MacDev Conquest 68/45

Last edited by Omega6_Virus : 06-10-2002 at 01:19 AM.
Omega6_Virus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2002, 07:00 PM #10
Timmah
 
 
Timmah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: San Antonio, TX
 has been a member for 10 years
White Lithium Grease is petrolium based. Petrolium based lubes EAT O-RINGS. Stick with Dow 55. It's made just for O-rings. Nifty isn't it?
__________________
Just my Spin,

Timmah
Mox Nix
Timmah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2002, 02:53 PM #11
Jack & Coke
LvL 10 Inside
 
Jack & Coke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
 has been a member for 10 years
When I spoke with Bob on the phone, he gave me a few tips on how to gas up the Timmy for optimal and consistant performance. Will the Timmy work if you just gas it up? Sure!
But what follows is what Bob believes and practices...

HOW TO GAS UP YOUR GUN FOR A WHOLE DAY OF PAINTBALL

1. When you first gas up your Timmy for a day of paintball, screw in your tank (or turn on the on/off ASA). Your gun will pressurize and you will be able to fire it.

2. Take a hex wrench and back the set screw of your LP Reg out (counter clock-wise) until it is flush with the end cap. Do the same to the HP reg. Fire your marker a few times as you do this and you will immediately notice that the system loses pressure to the point that it will not cycle (Kinda like when you de-gas a CO2 bottle from a marker).

3. After both reg screws are flush and the gun cannot fire, slowly begin turning the LP reg screw in (clock-wise) in small increaments (i.e. 1/16 of a turn) as you fire the gun. Keep doing this until your main gauge reads 85 psi. Now your opperating pressure is set.

4. After you have set the operating to 85 psi, slowly screw in the set screws in the the HP reg (clock-wise), until you see about 4 threads. This should put you in the neighborhood of 250-310 fps.

5. Go to a chrono and fine turn the HP reg setting until your marker is shooting at the velocity you want.

6. DO NOT DE-GAS YOUR GUN FOR THE REST OF THE DAY. Bob keeps his marker pressurized until his is done for the day. Only use your power on/off switch to disable your gun.

What this does is reset the tensions on the HP and LP reg springs. When you first gas the gun up, the gas pressure in your tank slams full force into the HP and LP regs. It takes time (i.e. many shots) for the springs to correctly adjust from a state of non-pressure, to a state of consistant pressure.

The idea of steps 1-5 is to slowly introduce pressure into your gun's system instead of 'shocking' it. Just think of the Regs as faucet valves in your sink. Be nice to them !

The idea of step 6 is to keep the springs in your regs under consistant pressure so your gun will have consistant velocities throughout the day. Good consistant spring pressure = good consistant regs = good consistant air pressure on the balls = good consistant ball trajectories = good consistant ACCURACY! Let's say you play 10 games, and after each game you de-gas your gun. That's 10 times your reg springs have to reset! How do you expect your regs to be consistant?

Bob says he does this every time he plays. But if you just want to goof around and shoot the gun, it's ok to just gas it up and rock and roll. Just don't expect super duper consistant velocities.

Hope this helps.
__________________
Jack & Coke
Jack & Coke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2002, 10:02 AM #12
WhataSpaz
Slacker 1st. Class
 
WhataSpaz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Northern Virginia
 has been a member for 10 years
How to Install the GZ Inline Volumizer

After talking to Bob and smoke for awhile tonight I was finally able to to get mine installed, so here's what i found out.

What Bob told me.

First make sure that when you purchased the volumizer you also received a size 011 oring with it (I found that a size 010 oring also works). This is very important. It's there to seal the air passage between the volumizer and the regulator. Do not install this without the oring, or you run the risk of possibility blowing your solenoid.

Mine didn't come with an oring and when I installed it my pressure jumped from 85psi to 200psi. So you can see why it's important.

Now with that being said, here's the rest of the procedure:

1. Remove the regulator.

2. On the threaded end of the reg. remove the oring nearest the end of the tube and discard. (See pict)

3. Now place the 011 oring over the end of the regulator shaft. (See pict)

4. Now screw the reg. into the volumizer and then screw the whole thing into gun. Make sure all orings are greased

5. Take an allen wrench and turn the velocity screw on the torpedo reg. counter-clockwise, one complete turn.

6. Gas up your gun and adjust the torpedo reg. until it reads 200psi. Also make sure the pressure from the LPR reg. into your gun still reads 85psi. adjust if necessary

8. Re-chrony your gun and go have fun.



Moved picture to the FAQ\Maintenance\Modification Links Thread
Attached Images
File Type: jpg regclose.jpg (19.6 KB, 4762 views)
__________________
Keeping the gene pool clean is everyone's responsibility.

My Feedback

Last edited by paintballer187 : 01-31-2007 at 12:43 AM.
WhataSpaz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2002, 06:26 PM #13
Vern1
Timmy - WooHoo!!
 
Vern1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Pettytown, Texas
Vern1 is a Supporting Member
Vern1 is a founding member
 has been a member for 10 years
Vern1 helped look for balloons
Greetings,
GZ setup link:
GZ Setup
__________________
Cheers,
Joe Petty
Original Timmy Whisperer, Voider of Warrantys and Healer of Unicorns.
Petty Paintball - www.pettypb.com
Vern1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2002, 08:45 AM #14
Eyecare
 
 
Eyecare's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: P l a n e t E a r t h
Eyecare is a Supporting Member
 has been a member for 10 years
A compilation of different links:

A number of useful links from Vern1 at Petty PB:
Other Links of interest from other sites
__________________
"If we measured rof in $/min instead of bps, more people would play stock."

Pics of my guns

Doc's SP Patent FAQ and related article

Last edited by Eyecare : 08-26-2002 at 11:20 AM.
Eyecare is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2002, 01:18 PM #15
carfreak
 
 
carfreak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Chicago
 has been a member for 10 years
I think this belongs in here.
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...hreadid=114210
__________________
Son, when you don't like your job you don't go on strike! You just go in every day and do it really half-assed! That's the American way! ( Homer Simpson)
carfreak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-2002, 05:35 PM #16
KMA
 
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: NY
KMA is a founding member
 has been a member for 10 years
KMA supports DLX Technology
Equalizer User's Manual

This should be handy for all timmy owner's who have upgraded to the WAS EQ board, or possibly for new timmy owners when they start shipping with this board.

Equalizer User's Manual

Good luck!
__________________
╔╦╗╔═╦═╦══
║║╚╣║║║║╔╗
║╔╗║║║║║╠╣
╚╝╚╩╩═╩╩╝╚
R&M Paintball - Headrush - BlackSheep
100% Positive Feedback
KMA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2002, 07:59 PM #17
madcow
Lactose Intolerant
 
madcow's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Concord, North Carolina
 has been a member for 10 years
Here is the link to the Intimidator online manual's.
http://www.boblong.com/manual/
__________________
PAIN Inc.
Team Disease
2005 CFOA series
My Intimidator
Feedback
GZ w/ LCD Clamshell, Dual Regs, VaporWorks Entropy board, 14" Powerlyte Scepter barrel, 45/4500 MacDev Conquest, Powerlyte rail, Halo B
Trauma supporter #101
madcow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2002, 02:19 PM #18
anjordan77
All Paintball Supplies
 
anjordan77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Richmond, VA
 has been a member for 10 years
anjordan77 plays in the USPL
anjordan77 donated to help Peyton Trent
anjordan77 helped look for balloons
anjordan77 is playing at Living Legends III
anjordan77 is Boss
LPR Creep fix

i had my lpr creeping from 75 to 120 psi and finally took things apart. i dow 55ed everything including inline torpedo reg...put back together exactly as it was...still had problem...a friend mentioned a similar problem back in the day and the solution was to just turn the little brass thing(reg seat?) around that the pressure adjustment screw pushes. i did so and voila, worked like a charm...constant pressure at 75psi.
__________________
Shop at AllPaintballSupplies.com
anjordan77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2003, 01:02 AM #19
paintballpark187
Burninating you up.
 
paintballpark187's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: So*Cal
Annual Supporting Member
paintballpark187 is a Supporting Member
 has been a member for 10 years
paintballpark187 is BST Trusted
Greasing your reg

Dow 55 or Battle Lube only!
(Oil voids warrenty, Dow33 sucks)
__________________
My Feedback
NBuccaneer BallersN
paintballpark187 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2003, 08:14 PM #20
paintballpark187
Burninating you up.
 
paintballpark187's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: So*Cal
Annual Supporting Member
paintballpark187 is a Supporting Member
 has been a member for 10 years
paintballpark187 is BST Trusted

Simple trigger job
__________________
My Feedback
NBuccaneer BallersN
paintballpark187 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2003, 06:16 PM #21
paintballpark187
Burninating you up.
 
paintballpark187's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: So*Cal
Annual Supporting Member
paintballpark187 is a Supporting Member
 has been a member for 10 years
paintballpark187 is BST Trusted

Changing the dip settings
__________________
My Feedback
NBuccaneer BallersN
paintballpark187 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
Forum Jump