On the M203:
Something like this?
For more details, check out this little guide I put together.
M203 style Grenade Launchers
For a rough overview, the Metadyne launcher can be set up to run off the airsource of your marker but if you're going to run HPA, you're going to run out of air QUICK.
The RAP4 M203 launchers are exactly like my M203...meaning they are Airsoft based M203 replicas that use "shells" as their air supply source. If you have a marker that has a mag well and a RIS rail on the underside of the foregrip (like the DAM...which I have used the M203 on just fine) then any RIS M203 will work.
Generally for paintball, the long version of the M203 is a better choice.
Keep in mind the M203 is a smaller diameter than your standard Vortex Nerf. That means you have to squish down your nerf when you load it or wrap them in electrical tape to make them smaller like I did.
Now while it is easier to have a marker that has a mag well up front to use the M203, you can use it on markers that don't have them (Just either have to remove the trigger gaurd on the M203 or modify how it secures while still being able to pull the trigger. Traditionally, the trigger gaurd locks into the mag well of the gun).
On the MilSim marker:
This is really a get what you want that has a foregrip with rails kind of a question. The things you are looking for based on your description are the following (in no particular order):
- Get something that "looks" MilSim. Most of these markers will have a top rail and a foregrip rail.
- Get something that has good performance. If you're wanting firing modes, this may limit your options as usually, but not always, guns that have firing modes are going to be electrionic. If you're going to go this route anyway, do yourself a favor and get something a little nicer than your standard 98 Custom or A5.
- Get something reliable. Having something that breaks in the middle of your scenario game sucks. Luckily most mainstream MilSim options are pretty rugged but do your homework before plunking down the cash. Of course this is true of any marker purchase so you may already know this.
- Get something you can put a sight on. Most MilSim guns are designed to look like real guns. Since soldiers don't have to deal with wearing a full face mask during combat, no one worries about mask clearance when designing a real firearm. In the paintball world, this means we have to come up with some way to give ourselves a little more room to work with. A marker like the Dye DAM has dropped the stock so that you can use a sight without having problems using your mask. Other guns may require a sight rail riser or carry handle riser of some sort to raise the sight up enough so your mask clears the stock. Problem with this is if the marker has a hopper that is not offset enough to clear a raised sight, you may have an issue and need to purchase a 45 degree sight rail in addition to the riser to clear the hopper.
This is an easy one, unless you're getting a MilSim marker that shoots First Strike rounds, don't buy a scope. For the rig you're talking about, a red dot or reflex sight is all you need. You're not scouting or worried about stealth so a scope is going to be more of a hinderance than a help. With regular paint, a scope is only good for being used like one would use a pair of binoculars, not for aiming.
On your TigerStripe Camo:
You don't Anno TigerStripe, you paint it. There is a company called DuraCoat that makes real firearm paint. This stuff is crazy tough. Here is a marker I painted in an ACU digital pattern with it back in 2008. The picture is from summer 2013. I used this marker every time I played until I got my DAM last summer.
Here is an example of their TigerStripe package:
For $70 you have all the supplies you need to paint your marker that pattern. Before you think it's really hard, it's not. It takes time and patience, but the process is easy.
Take your marker and prep it per their instructions (sand it lightly to rough up the surface then hose it down with a degreaser they sell). Then take apart the marker so you are only left with parts you are going to paint. For me, the majority of the marker was assembled but things like the grip covers and rubber on the scopes was removed. Lenses were taped over and the scopes and rings were removed from the rest of the marker to make painting easier. Now you're going to paint the marker all one color. Then you let that dry overnight. After that, you apply masks over that paint where you want that color to show through then paint the next color. You repeat this process for all colors until done. After that last coat has set overnight, remove all your templates, spray with a matte clear coat (if you wish, I didn't), and let the marker set for a month.
Yes, you heard me right, a month.
Duracoat isn't really a paint, it's an epoxy. Like any epoxy it takes time to cure to full hardness. While you can handle the marker about 8 hours after each coat (hence the let dry overnight between colors) it takes about four weeks to reach maximum hardness. If you have prepped the marker right, and let it sit for those four weeks, the Duracoat will last forever.
Just one note, be sure to clean off your marker after each weekend of play IMMEDIATELY. For whatever reason, if you let the paintball paint sit on the Duracoat for a long period of time, it softens the Duracoat and will eventually cause parts of it to lift.
I also may would not limit yourself to just TigerStripe. Check out DuraCoat's sight and see all the available patterns and ideas they have. Some of them are pretty wild. (See below)