Q- How much is ____ worth?
As of the latest edit of this post, the average prices are as follows:
Gen1 Borg (04, very rare. Basically a Gen2 but with only one detent.)- $150-$250
Gen2 Borg (04)- $200-$300
Gen3 Borg (05)- $250-$350
Sonic Borg- $300-$375
06 Borg- $400-$500
07 Borg- $550-$675
For Team or special edition markers, figure in another $50-$150.
For upgrades, figure in the additional depreciated value of those upgrades.
Q- Will 07 borg accent kits work on older borgs?
No. The detents are different rendering the eye covers useless. The ram sleeve is different rendering the back-cap useless. Pre-07 gladiators didn't have an accent ring. Yadda-yadda-yadda.
Q- What Borg parts are interchangeable?
All top and bottom tube internals like bolts, rams, valves, etc. Feednecks. 06-07 triggers/grips/boards. 04-05 triggers/grips/boards. The obvious stuff like HPR's. Probably more but I can't really remember off the top of my head.
Q- What hoppers will work well with my Borg/Droid?
There is no magic combination of marker and hopper, there are simply good hoppers and bad hoppers. A Vlocity will not feed paint beautifully in a matrix and turn into a blender on an Ego, it just doesn't happen. You should do research on the hoppers themselves rather than ask this question.
Q- Is MD customer service any good?
Yes, it's excellent. Between the speedy service of MDAustralia, MDUSA, MDEurope, RanjerzProshop, FuryPB, PBK, etc as well as the prompt and knowledgeable responses here in the MD forum to unique problems not covered in the stickies, you won't be alone. Try it for yourself, you'll see what I mean.
Q- What are good pressures/settings/dwell for my Borg/Droid?
HPR- 190-240 PSI
LPR- often tuned blind, but usually 45-75 PSI
Dwell- Anywhere from 5-12, safest bet is 10
HPR- often tuned blind, but usually 85-120 PSI. Just tune until FPS is achieved.
Dwell- 8-14, the 10-12 area is what most users run. 12 is stock.
Settings such as debounce and loader delay are entirely dependent upon your unique setup, refer to your manual or manuals available in the stickies for advice.
Q- What settings will make my Borg/Droid shoot the best/most efficiently?
The stock ones. Only engage is experimentation when you become comfortable with your marker. How do you know if you are comfortable? When you no longer need a FAQ.
Q- Which is better, Droid or Borg?
It depends on what you are looking for in a marker. If you consider air efficiency, ease of maintenance, field stripability, to be important, get a Borg. If you like quiet, smooth shooting, light/compact markers, go for the droid. As far as which year of Borg....get the newest one you can afford. They all shoot rather similarly, but they get lighter an have better software the younger they are.
Q- My Borg/Droid has First Shot Drop Off (FSDO), Help!
Excessive lube on the ram and ANY lube on the ram bumper may cause FSDO. Check your ram bumper oring (The smallest oring on the very end of the ram piece) for any kind of lube, also check the inside of the ram housing where the bumper comes to rest (the bottom) for lube. If that doesn't help, a more detailed tutorial can be found at borgfocus.
Increase you anti-bolt stick settings on your board. As always, a good cleaning and relube making sure to check orings won't hurt.
Q- Oh my god, I have a LEAK! Is my noid blown? I'm chopping paint, do i need a new noid?
Repeat after me: It is virtually IMPOSSIBLE to destroy a solenoid. Chances are good your leak can be solved elsewhere, as the noid is intimately connected to the ram/drivetrain of you marker and seal failures in those areas can vent through the noid. Follow the leak troubleshooting guides in James' Droid 101 in the droid FAQ or Borgfocus first, and if you just can't solve the leak you may have blown a seal in the noid or run one dry. Even in this case, you still probably won't need a whole new noid, as MDUSA should be able to rebuild it no problem.
Q- My marker won't turn on! (This covers nearly all electrical problems, including eyes and solenoids)
Due to the nature of electricity, electrical problems in a paintball marker usually necessitate a rather involved diagnosis, and therefore a FAQ is really not going to cover it. The best advice I can give you is to consult existing threads/FAQ's and to check borgfocus. Also, work your way through the wiring looking for any obvious loose connections as well as pinched wires. As always, CHECK YOUR BATTERY!
Q- How do I tune my Borg's LPR?
While I personally recommend the Toddles method (video available in Malikowski's FAQ), there is also another method which involves using your LPR to adjust FPS rather than the HPR. This second method is actually MD recommended, but use caution as adjusting the LPR too high may cause solenoid problems. To use the MD recommended method: Back out LPR, set HPR to 200psi, adjust LPR up to achieve desired FPS.
The Toddles method leads to a marker with less kick but also worse shot consistency, the MD method lends to more kick, better consistency, and some say better efficiency.
Q- Do I have an 07 Borg with the old solenoid/board, or do I have the new solenoid/board?
As far as the noid goes, the older one that was not able to achieve famous borg speeds due to loose tolerances was grey/white (It wasn't "Capped", that makes it sound like it was a purposeful act by MD. MD had no clue they were being slipped sub-par noids.) The New solenoid is black.
As far as software goes, chances are very good that if you have the new noid, you have the new software. If you have the old noid, you have the old software. The best way to be sure is to check the manuals and see if your programing matches up.
*I cannot remember if there was an actual programming difference between the old and new 07 board software. I do remember that there was an update, but I cannot remember what exactly was updated.*
Q- My pre-06 borg leaks, what do I do?
If your LPR is set too high the noid automatically vents. It is also possible you have a kinked hose. A video showing how to reassemble your pre-06 frame properly without pinching hoses is available in Malikowski's Borg sticky.
Q- Do I have the 07 red valve or an earlier one?
Do you have a delrin poppet? If so, you have the 07 red valve. Do you have a brass poppet? If so, you have an earlier version.
Q- What upgrades are available for my MD marker?
The rule of thumb is stock is almost always best when it comes to internals (minus board). If you MUST though, Lucky made an air assist valve for some time, but they are out of business now. A variety of rams are available, but they are very hit-or-miss as far as performance goes. Other than that, you have boards/triggers/grips which have already been listed in a previous FAQ.
Q- How many LE Guns were made?
A- Kai's Team Edition/ Private Label Droid thread
As far as borgs go...I honestly can't remember how many of each was made. Feel free to leave info in a comment to this thread.
Q- Who can I get to mill my borg and what frames can be fitted onto MD markers?
A- Commonly used milling companies are:
Elia paintball (04-07 borgs)
Destructive Customs (04, 05, sonic borgs)
Warped Airsmithing (04, 05, sonic borgs and possibly even later)
More small companies exist, I can't recall their names though.
As far as frames go:
You pretty much know as much as we do. In the past, ego and timmy frames have successfully been modded onto 06 cyborgs, but it required heavy modification. Other than that, your guess is as good as ours. Chances are, UL frames will require some sort of tray to be made.
Q- My pre-07 borg is having issues with bolt stick/paint breaking!
Check the detents. On pre-07 borgs, it is possible to screw the autococker style detents in too far, resulting in either too much pressure on the ball/bolt or even the detent housing coming into contact with the ball/bolt.