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Old 02-04-2008, 09:01 PM #1
Necrogen98
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The Guide: Fixing your broken battery harnesses

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage done to your home, your equipment, your person, or anything else which you may destroy while following this guide. In reading this, you agree to assume all of the responsibilities for your actions. In addition, this thread is intended to be an objective guide for you to fix your broken harnesses. You agree NOT to use this guide to make any sort of profit. Also, due to the nature and delicacy of this repair, it won't have a 100% success rate. However, taking your time and doing a good job will improve the results for you.

A very special thanks to PMR13954 and jacx9200 for donating their broken harnesses to me so that I could make this thread.

Alright then. As amazing as they may be, an ever present problem with Dye and Proto markers is the fragile nature of their wiring harnesses, the solenoid and microswitch harness in particular. The wires easily pull out of the connectors, potentially ruining a day of play and shaking out your wallet for a new one. However, this problem CAN be fixed, and today I will show you how to do it. Follow closely and you may save yourself some money and heartache.

1. Briefing

One thing that I must say is that this repair takes an enormous amount of precision and finesse. I don't care how good your grade in shop class was, forget it. You're going to need some sort of outside experience or this repair will be HARD for you. Another thing worth mentioning is the tools to be used. I used a variety of specialized tools because I build guitar amplifiers on the side and they were readily available to me. I realize that most of you are not going to have Xcelite handpieces but you can improvise. Any precision instruments should work fine.

2. Tools

For this repair, I used the following:

- Wire Cutters
- Precision Pliers
- Small gauge wire strippers
- Small screwdrivers
- JB Weld
- Pocketknife
- A leather glove



Now you are ready to begin. GO SLOWLY! You must minimize damage to the parts of the harness. A botched job will produce botched results. Use great caution and care.


Step one: Remove the Wire Clasp

In the beginning of the repair, you must remove all of the old bits of wire from the connector. The only way to do this is to remove the small metal connection, which I will refer to as the Wire Clasp from the connector. This grips the wire and anchors it into the connector with a small tab on the side. I will call this the Restraint Tab.



To remove the wire clasp, you must depress the restraint tab. I did this with my small flathead screwdriver. After the tab is depressed, you can take a small tool and push the wire clasp from the bottom so that it comes out of the top of the connector.

***Note: Because of the condition of the wires, I opted to replace the entire battery clip with a new one, removing both of the wires from the connector.***





Here are the clasps removed from the connector:




These are VERY SMALL parts. Don't lose them!

Step Two: Removing wire bits


Notice that there are still small bits of wire and insulation gripped in the clasp. They are held in place with two little arms which bear hug them. You may bend these arms back a little with tweezers, small pliers, or a small knife to remove the wire remnants. If you use a knife, please wear a leather glove to prevent cutting yourself. This is delicate work and it is easy for your hand to slip here.

Wire bits removed:



Step Three: Attaching the wires

You must now prep the wire or wires to be inserted into the connector. To do this, cut off the ragged ends and strip the insulation off for the new connection. ***YOU DO NOT NEED A LOT OF BARE WIRE, 4 OR 5 MILLIMETERS WILL BE ALL THAT YOU NEED. THIS IS IMPORTANT TO THE LONGEVITY OF THE REPAIR.***
Once you have the wire ends prepared, attach them to the clasp with those tiny bear hug arms we talked about before. Use small pliers to bend them back into place. Don't try to solder them on, if you do, you will have no room to fit them back into the connector. The connection may seem fragile, we'll deal with that later.

Attached:



Now, simply insert the wire clasps and wires back into the connector. The red wire goes in the outermost terminal, the black wire takes the one next to it. After that comes the blue wire, and the yellow wire takes the other outside terminal.

Reinserted:





In its current state, the connection will be unstable and easily pulled out again. Secure it with something; I recommend JB Weld. (Whatever you use, make sure that it is NON CONDUCTIVE, lest you short out the circuit by crossing over the terminals. Also, don't use Gorilla Glue as it expands outward during the dry time and will move into the terminals, preventing you from attaching the connector to the board.) The other wires will act as an anchor to the JB Weld, holding the new connection in place. Don't use too much JB Weld or the harness may sit funny in the frame with the grips closed. Also be careful of getting JB weld in the terminals themselves! JB WELD IS ENTIRELY NON-CONDUCTIVE!

JB Welded:



Once the JB Weld has cured, You are finished! If done right, you have just saved yourself some money and grief. I hope you enjoyed my instructions, and if there is anything you think is worth mentioning, tell me so that I can add it. Thanks!

Before:



After:

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Last edited by Necrogen98 : 08-27-2012 at 03:12 AM.
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Old 02-04-2008, 09:06 PM #2
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ya, i have solderd my harness...1...2...4 times already. proto should have come up with a better design for the pmr board/wire assembly.

but good job. didnt think about putting jb weld ontop of the disconnect.
sticky!
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Old 02-04-2008, 09:21 PM #3
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Good job! I've been doing this for a ghetto fix on my guns for awhile now. Just never took the time to take pictures and do a tutorial on how to do it. This should be in the stickies.
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Old 02-04-2008, 09:26 PM #4
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I've done this to a few harness but I've never thought of using jb weld, what I did was I put a few dabs of superglue in each hole and it would stay. Also sticky this.
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Old 02-04-2008, 09:28 PM #5
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Put this in the sticky.
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Old 02-04-2008, 09:32 PM #6
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Also, WATCH OUT on what you use as 'goop' over those wires on top of the white molex connector. DO NOT use something that is conductive (IE_ conducts electricity) or you will short out the whole electric system by jumping the +, -, and signal wires together.

I wouldnt use JB weld personally, as its used to fuse metal, and may conduct static electricity down the road, but if it works for you...
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Old 02-04-2008, 09:38 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dillusion View Post
Also, WATCH OUT on what you use as 'goop' over those wires on top of the white molex connector. DO NOT use something that is conductive (IE_ conducts electricity) or you will short out the whole electric system by jumping the +, -, and signal wires together.

I wouldnt use JB weld personally, as its used to fuse metal, and may conduct static electricity down the road, but if it works for you...
Worth mentioning, I'll add it.

By the way, before I did this repair I checked and JB Weld is 100% non conductive. I thought about that too, but I had seen people use it in similar applications with no problem.
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Old 02-04-2008, 10:05 PM #8
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You are THE MAN for making this topic. Sticky TIEM!!
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Old 02-04-2008, 10:25 PM #9
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YESSSSSSSSS that was my battery harness in those pic. wooo hoooo. great thread man. i think this should be stickied.
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Old 02-04-2008, 11:00 PM #10
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added to the sticky

later
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Old 02-05-2008, 12:25 AM #11
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Great job on this thread.

It's a pretty good solution to use the little bear hug arms to crimp to the wire. Nice quick and dirty fix. Although... the little bear hug arms are designed to crimp the insulation... and middle section is what crimps the wires. I wouldn't recommend opening middle section though... just do what's in this guide.

The reason why the factory wire harness break is because the little bear hug arms are not properly crimped on the insulation. Probably done by design.
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Old 02-05-2008, 12:34 AM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erayser View Post
Great job on this thread.

It's a pretty good solution to use the little bear hug arms to crimp to the wire. Nice quick and dirty fix. Although... the little bear hug arms are designed to crimp the insulation... and middle section is what crimps the wires. I wouldn't recommend opening middle section though... just do what's in this guide.

The reason why the factory wire harness break is because the little bear hug arms are not properly crimped on the insulation. Probably done by design.
Haha, I see my bear hug term has caught on.

I noticed that technicality while I was first attempting to do this, but I figured that JB Weld was going to hold it all together anyway so there was no point in getting too worried about it. The prongs only need to be touching one wire anyway, so you can basically just stuff them all in there.
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Old 02-06-2008, 08:44 PM #13
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Coincidentally, I just broke my connection. While were on the guide, may I ask the question... if you really need a quick fix (quick quick quick OH MY GOD), could I strip the wire insulation a few millimeters and just glue them where they were?

Ill probably have to get a new one if your way is the only way. This seems easy to my knowledge, but I have very shaky hands. I can NOT do tedious work.
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Old 02-06-2008, 09:57 PM #14
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You could try. Sounds doable to me.
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Old 02-06-2008, 09:59 PM #15
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Yeah good, I just wanted to make sure so nothing exploded. Ill do it under the assumption all glue (Ill use crazy glue when I find it tomorrow) is non-conductive.
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Old 02-06-2008, 10:07 PM #16
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Well done

Great guide.
I'm partial to the disclaimer and the briefing.

"I don't care how good your grade in shop class was, forget it."

Translation:
No mechanical aptitude = purchasing a new one

LoL
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Old 03-04-2008, 11:22 AM #17
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yea, my PM7 microswitch/battery harness blows as well, i now bring my solder gun to all the games i play to do a quick fix when my trigger quits
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Old 04-23-2008, 11:57 PM #18
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Anyone ever used liquid tape? Wonder if that would hold good.
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Old 05-18-2008, 09:02 AM #19
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I need help i can seem to understand how to remove the 4 port box from the board how im a suposed to do it??
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Old 08-11-2008, 04:32 PM #20
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how can u check to see if glues in non-conductive?

I am using Devcon high strength epoxy will that work?
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Old 09-04-2008, 09:44 PM #21
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I need help i can seem to understand how to remove the 4 port box from the board how im a suposed to do it??
If you're having trouble doing that, I pray you dont try this fix.
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