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Old 02-01-2014, 02:52 PM #1
1BallGogs
 
 
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Aftermarket Lv10 Bolt's???

I was wondering is there any Lv10 bolt mods people have tried that works or know anyone that can make aftermarket bolts for a automag with a lv 10 valve ?

Last edited by 1BallGogs : 02-06-2014 at 04:24 PM.
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Old 02-01-2014, 08:15 PM #2
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lvl 10 is far superior to any other after market mag bolt. no one else makes an aftermarket lvl 10. some people have done mods to them but there really is not a good reason to or guaranteed results.
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Old 02-02-2014, 09:13 AM #3
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There is nothing to upgrade with the level 10 bolt.
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Old 02-04-2014, 06:31 PM #4
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^^^

These.

Also, to clarify, there is no such thing as an 'L10 mag'. The L10 is a bolt, and all mags can run them (well, the rentals can't, but can if modified slightly).

Also, since AGD is still in business and you can still buy brand new L10 bolts from them as well as from other distributors like ANS Gear, and since the L10 bolt is mechanically incapable of chopping paint, why are you curious about aftermarket versions?

AGD is one of those rare companies that produced stuff that could only rarely be improved upon, and then, it was usually AGD who did the improving. Lots of companies tried, but for most parts, and for all bolts, regs, etc., any aftermarket will be a severe downgrade.
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Old 02-06-2014, 04:23 PM #5
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Lv 10 bolt

I want to get a newer design bolt like the eclipse ego cure bolt's with rubber built into the bolt face but that is also a lv 10 bolt. So I wont have to waste my time with foamies anymore and possibly a little quieter sound report! I Think my mag's are some of the best marker's for paintball I just think the bolt could be improved on.

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Old 02-09-2014, 12:12 AM #6
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AGD fooled with the idea of delrin-sleeved and delrin-tipped L10 bolts; they mostly got launched out the barrel of the marker. The goal there was for the bolt to move more smoothly and freely; a rubber tip or o-ring would cause massive bolt stick. A notch with smaller o-rings like the Cure series would not function properly either, because the bolt can rotate freely.

AGD has moved to making valves, bodies, frames and barrels out of aluminum and carbonfiber, but the bolts have stayed steel for a reason. If a foamy gets launched, it's not going to hurt anyone, but the bolt itself needs to be able to take a beating inside the marker without wearing out.

If you're having trouble getting your foamies to adhere (and stay) try cleaning the bolt with Dawn dishsoap and a toothbrush, dry thoroughly, clean with a laerdal alchol wipe, and applying your foamy with a dot of superglue in the center (draw lines to each of the three "wings" with a toothpick). I like to hold mine in place with a pair of tweezers.
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Old 02-09-2014, 08:11 PM #7
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Use Gorilla glue super glue to attach the foamie.

Never had one come off yet with that stuff.

As already stated there's really nothing to improve on with a L10 bolt.

Although years ago I did modify one to work in a Galactic Z body.

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Old 03-07-2014, 01:36 PM #8
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btw - the lvl10 bolt used internal lighting vs the delrin sleeve of the super bolts. Almost the same weight.

I am still running one of the prototype Super bolts in my Classic works great

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Old 03-21-2014, 09:27 PM #9
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No need for a foamie with an L10. It just won't hit the ball hard enough to worry about it. Come to think of it...really no need for a foamie on any AGD bolt.

I've run a Superbolt in my Sydarm for over 10 years now. Zero problems, and picked up around 7 more shots per 12gram
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Old 03-22-2014, 01:33 AM #10
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Use a foamy.

It isn't a case of how hard the bolt hits it, but where. The foamy forces the ball to sit centered in the breech, directly under the ball stack, rather than rolling back, which can cause various issues. Now to be fair, lots of people have run with no foamies and had no issues, but that is not the same thing as saying that running without is just as good as running with. It isn't.
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Old 03-25-2014, 09:02 PM #11
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"...with an L10"

The L10 bolt starts out slower, which gently moves the ball from under the ball stack before the air blast hits.
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Old 03-26-2014, 03:47 AM #12
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Old 03-26-2014, 01:23 PM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
"...with an L10"

The L10 bolt starts out slower, which gently moves the ball from under the ball stack before the air blast hits.
Makes sense in theory. But you are saying you have never chopped paint without the foamie?

And have you run high ROF with force loader with this configuration?

If so that is mighty interesting, and I'd be interested to try it out.
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Old 03-26-2014, 04:29 PM #14
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in the 10 years i've had a L10 bolt in my classic i don't think i've chopped a ball that wasn't bad, i.e. bad paint has caused breaks but not the bolt.
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Old 03-27-2014, 03:06 AM #15
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I've also never chopped.

But then, I always run the foamy.
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Old 03-29-2014, 10:06 PM #16
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My first Mag, back in '95, lost the foamy within the first few shots. While I did chop then, it was because of the poor quality of paint manufactured before paintball became much more mainstream.

When AGD brought out the parabola plug, chopping ended in all my Mags, even after I pulled the foamy off myself. My Emag started out with no foamy, standard bolt, and never chopped. I used the Emag and the L10 in Las Vegas during the Pan Ams, to demonstrate the system. I lost count of how many tank fills I used, or how many balls went out...with no chops.

So, yes, with good paint, good maintenance, and smart shooting, I never chopped balls because the foamy was missing.

My Emag, after a few very custom program tweaks, was able to run 26 balls out the barrel (not shots, but actual balls flying), over an Oehler chronograph, with less than 10fps variation, and absolutely zero shootdown. And, no breaks.
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Last edited by Army : 03-29-2014 at 10:10 PM.
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Old 04-05-2014, 10:31 AM #17
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We need new E-Mags a lighter slimmer version I need one don't want to buy a regular electro I should have jumped on the E-Tac's as soon as they released them didn't think they would stop selling them so fast I would also love a factory pump mag also!
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