short timing for a shorter pull - PbNation
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Old 05-15-2001, 12:33 AM #1
Heely
 
 
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soon i am getting a P&P frame that has 3 set screws. i want to time my gun so that it cycles early in the pull and so that it is as close as can be. that way i can have the shortest trippger thow that i can posibly have without haveing problems like blwback. this makes sence right? can someone tell me how to do this? thanks alot.
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Old 05-15-2001, 04:00 PM #2
Devaut
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it makes sense, but you'll have to learn the sytem and take your time to pull it off right, blowback is the most common result with timing that short, but if you take your time and have a good threeway, you won't have a terrible time getting it timed right at a very short pull.

-y
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Old 05-15-2001, 04:19 PM #3
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i know it will take some patience but what do i have to do to achive this?
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Old 05-15-2001, 05:17 PM #4
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You first need a "real" rear trigger stop. Move your firing point as far forward as reliable. I try to make it so that it'll fire with about 1mm plate movement. Then time the 3-way appropriately. You really need the short 3-way to achieve the 1mm throw. I use the Bomb and it has a crazy short throw. More so than the KAPP or STO units. Pretty basic. But without a proper rear stop, you're wasting your time. On my 99 benchmark frame the rear stop is really just a return spring tensioner so I had to come up with my own devious rear stop. Hope your P&P frame isn't the same.

Yochi.
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Old 05-15-2001, 05:39 PM #5
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the P&P frame says it has 3 set screws. and if it doesnt have a rear trigger stop couldnt you put a small rod set to the propor length inside the spring to stop the trigger plate from moving at the corect time?
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Old 05-15-2001, 05:44 PM #6
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there are many things you can do to mimic a rear stop. A small rod inside the trigger spring, piece of small dowel inside the sear spring, modified trigger plate with a safety, modified trigger stop screw with the 1/4 milled down to fit inside the trigger spring... You get the idea. See how the P&P frame pans out first. Worry about jury rigging something when you need to. I think the 3 sets are 2 vertical and 1 rear. Correct me if i'm wrong. Good luck with the tinkering.

Yochi.
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Old 05-15-2001, 05:46 PM #7
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i just thought of this. if you had a front trigger stop instead of a rear one couldnt you make the gun cycle in the back off the pull?
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Old 05-15-2001, 05:47 PM #8
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yep. that's how some frames do it.

Yochi.
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Old 05-15-2001, 05:51 PM #9
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well if it has a rear stop i wouldnt have tro worry about rigging anything.

btw. i was going to get a whole new front block kit instead of piecing it together. is it better to do this or to piece it together? what kits would you recomend or what parts if you wouldnt recomend a kit.
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Old 05-15-2001, 05:57 PM #10
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It's kind of a personal thing. I think the current faves among front pnues are palmers and shocktech stuff. Personally I like the shocktech stuff better, if for no other reason it's cheaper and functions very well. It's a whole other thread about why I like shocktech stuff over other stuff. If you're gonna replace everything at once, buy the whole kit. It works out a bit cheaper. But honestly, all you really need is the super short throw 3-way (bomb) for your trigger to as short as possible. The rest will be cosmetic. If you got the dough...do it

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Old 05-15-2001, 06:08 PM #11
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well i will look around more when i am going to upgrade my front stuff.
if i were going to piece it together i would probobly get this setup. bomb3-way(everyone says its the shortest), clippard ram(seems good but, all rams do the same job right?) rock reg(thats what everyone seems to like the most.)
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