How to Disassemble Your 'Cocker' in Order to Prepare it for a Pump Kit:
Remove Bolt Pin and Slide Bolt from the Body of the marker and the Back Block.
Remove Cocking Rod from the marker.
The back of the marker will look like this now.
Unscrew the back block from the marker. You may need to flex the cocking / pump arm a little - but this is okay. In my case it took 10 full turns to get the back block off the marker.
Your marker will look like this once the Bolt, Bolt Pin, Cocking Rod, and Back Block have been removed.
Use a 3/16th Allen Key to remove the Front Block and Pneumatics. The 3/16th Allen Key inserts into the flat headed 'Banjo' bolt in the front of the front block and with a bit of muscle comes off the marker. In my case it took 8 turns to take the banjo bolt off the marker enough to take the front block off.
Note that you will not remove the banjo bolt from the front block. The front block will move away from the marker as you remove the banjo bolt and allow you to remove it.
This is what your front block and pneumatics will look like when removed from the marker. Note that the 4-way actuating rod, coupler, and spool did not come with the pneumatics. This is okay.
Using a .50 Allen Key remove the grub screw that retains the Actuating Rod Coupler to the Actuating Rod. Unscrew the Coupler. In my case it took 9.5 turns to remove the coupler from the Actuating Rod.
Using a 1/8th Allen Key remove the two screws that hold the grip frame on the marker. Slide the Actuating Rod through the Vertical Regulator Adapter and remove it. Screw the Actuating Rod back on the coupler of the pneumatics and set them aside.
Replace the grip frame.
Your marker will now look like this and is ready for any pump kit to be placed on it.
Note - I would jot down the turns to remove all of your parts for your pneumatics so that you can reset them more easily if you ever turn your 'sniper' back into a 'cocker'.
CCM Basic Pump Kit - An Example:
Insert the Guide Rod and Guide Ring (being sure both o-rings are present and slightly lubricated) into the threaded portion where you removed the Banjo Bolt.
Begin to hand tighten the Pump Guide Rod and Guide Ring to the marker being sure the longer portion of the Guide Ring is toward the marker and nestled in the channel of the marker body that used to allow the Pump / Cockin Rod to go to the back block.
Insert the Pump Arm through the Guide Ring and then slip the Pump over the Guide Rod.
Screw the Back Block on to the Pump Rod until it is tight on the Pump Rod. It might not tighten down on the Pump Rod and this is not essential. Just get it close to the end of the threads.
Reinsert the Bolt, Bolt Pin, and Cocking Rod into the rear of the marker.
Adjust your Cocking Rod to ensure that the bolt clears the breech as you hear the marker recock. This should be adjusted when you get it - but with mine I had to readjust the Cocking Rod quite a bit (as you can see from the picture above).
That is it. The marker should shoot at the same FPS that you had it set at as a Cocker and should shoot great.