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Old 11-18-2007, 09:00 AM #1
Talfuchre
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How to Prepare your 'Cocker' to become a 'Sniper' (Pump).

How to Disassemble Your 'Cocker' in Order to Prepare it for a Pump Kit:



Step One:

Remove Bolt Pin and Slide Bolt from the Body of the marker and the Back Block.

Step Two:

Remove Cocking Rod from the marker.


The back of the marker will look like this now.

Step Three:

Unscrew the back block from the marker. You may need to flex the cocking / pump arm a little - but this is okay. In my case it took 10 full turns to get the back block off the marker.


Your marker will look like this once the Bolt, Bolt Pin, Cocking Rod, and Back Block have been removed.

Step Four:

Use a 3/16th Allen Key to remove the Front Block and Pneumatics. The 3/16th Allen Key inserts into the flat headed 'Banjo' bolt in the front of the front block and with a bit of muscle comes off the marker. In my case it took 8 turns to take the banjo bolt off the marker enough to take the front block off.


Note that you will not remove the banjo bolt from the front block. The front block will move away from the marker as you remove the banjo bolt and allow you to remove it.



This is what your front block and pneumatics will look like when removed from the marker. Note that the 4-way actuating rod, coupler, and spool did not come with the pneumatics. This is okay.



Step Five:

Using a .50 Allen Key remove the grub screw that retains the Actuating Rod Coupler to the Actuating Rod. Unscrew the Coupler. In my case it took 9.5 turns to remove the coupler from the Actuating Rod.



Step Six:

Using a 1/8th Allen Key remove the two screws that hold the grip frame on the marker. Slide the Actuating Rod through the Vertical Regulator Adapter and remove it. Screw the Actuating Rod back on the coupler of the pneumatics and set them aside.

Step Seven:

Replace the grip frame.


Your marker will now look like this and is ready for any pump kit to be placed on it.

Note - I would jot down the turns to remove all of your parts for your pneumatics so that you can reset them more easily if you ever turn your 'sniper' back into a 'cocker'.


CCM Basic Pump Kit - An Example:





Step One:

Insert the Guide Rod and Guide Ring (being sure both o-rings are present and slightly lubricated) into the threaded portion where you removed the Banjo Bolt.




Step Two:

Begin to hand tighten the Pump Guide Rod and Guide Ring to the marker being sure the longer portion of the Guide Ring is toward the marker and nestled in the channel of the marker body that used to allow the Pump / Cockin Rod to go to the back block.



Step Three:

Insert the Pump Arm through the Guide Ring and then slip the Pump over the Guide Rod.



Step Four:

Screw the Back Block on to the Pump Rod until it is tight on the Pump Rod. It might not tighten down on the Pump Rod and this is not essential. Just get it close to the end of the threads.

Step Five:

Reinsert the Bolt, Bolt Pin, and Cocking Rod into the rear of the marker.



Step Six:

Adjust your Cocking Rod to ensure that the bolt clears the breech as you hear the marker recock. This should be adjusted when you get it - but with mine I had to readjust the Cocking Rod quite a bit (as you can see from the picture above).

That is it. The marker should shoot at the same FPS that you had it set at as a Cocker and should shoot great.

Good Luck,

TF
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Last edited by Talfuchre : 12-24-2007 at 03:43 PM.
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Old 11-18-2007, 09:22 AM #2
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Nice tutorial.
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Old 11-18-2007, 09:23 AM #3
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Old 11-18-2007, 09:54 AM #4
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stick please, too many people ask how and for pictures and this explains
perfectly
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Old 11-18-2007, 10:19 AM #5
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i second the sticky
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Old 11-18-2007, 05:53 PM #6
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Sticky!
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Old 11-18-2007, 06:11 PM #7
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How to become awesome.


STEP 1: Change name to Talfuchre.
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Old 11-18-2007, 06:12 PM #8
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where can i get just the guide rod, because my pump handle moves around to much, please pm me
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Old 11-18-2007, 06:35 PM #9
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It comes with the CCM Economy Kit.
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Old 11-18-2007, 09:43 PM #10
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SFF:

Thanks man.

FTM Electra:

If you are trying to put the Guide Rod on a kit other than the CCM - it will not work. You will need to buy a new kit.

TF
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Old 11-18-2007, 10:05 PM #11
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very nice i was just reading ur pump kit review very nice you do good work
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Old 11-23-2007, 06:58 PM #12
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i didn't need help but was just looking and you tutorial was well done.
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Old 11-24-2007, 01:59 AM #13
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Very Nice =], I was wondering not sure if this is the correct place, but my guide rod was coming a bit loose and sometimes unscrewed it self a bit. Anyone have any solutions? I tried hot gluing but doesnt even stick to the part where the guide rod attaches. Thanks. Pm me if possible.
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Old 11-24-2007, 07:38 AM #14
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Stealth,

Simply use a little blue loctite when installing. Let it dry for an hour or so before airing up - I will be suprised if it wiggles loose then.

TF
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Old 11-24-2007, 11:16 AM #15
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that's what i used on mine, and it still hasn't wiggled the last 3 all day practices i've used it.
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Old 11-27-2007, 06:34 PM #16
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i got a quick question what can I do to a cocker body that has been mini'd?
is it possible to pump those? there is no asa that hangs off the front,
there is also no front block asa to use due to the pump kit, which means I have no air supply.
links are awesome,
pm me if anyone can.
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Old 12-01-2007, 03:27 PM #17
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WWA makes Mini Kits and CCM used to. Yes it can be done.

TF
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Old 01-14-2008, 09:30 AM #18
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What about setting it up to use 12 gram co2 with a quick changer in the vertical air source adaptor? What do you recommend for that since the air will be unregulated?
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Old 01-17-2008, 06:48 PM #19
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unregulated air in cockers is fine to the best of my knowledge esp as a pump no pneumatics to blow its all going thru the body air passages, no idea as to the efficiency
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Old 01-19-2008, 02:38 PM #20
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Is a cocker with a pump kit as good as a sniper??
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Old 01-19-2008, 02:58 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greennoahc View Post
Is a cocker with a pump kit as good as a sniper??
Yes, if not better due to higher quality parts.
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