I take no responsibility for anything you do by following this walkthrough.
1. Autococker with MQ valve
2. 06 Ego frame, stock or star or 05 Ego Frame, stock or star (just skip the sections on board mods as E1/E2 is a direct drop in on the 05 frame)
3. Two ¾ long 10-32 threaded button head screws
4. Delrin or something similar (very small amount needed)
5. Drill press or a vice and hand drill
7. Dremel (not needed but makes some parts faster to do)
8. Misc files, ranging from medium to small to tiny
9. Drill bits, #36, #29 and 3/16 used in this guide (only 3/16 needed the others are used as step bits)
11. Misc measuring tools (ruler, tape measure, etc.)
14. Basic skill and understanding of shop tools and autococker
REMEMBER MEASURE TWICE CUT/DRILL ONCE!
During this walkthrough I will be using a 06 Star frame and a Eclipse factory cocker (full body).
Star frame all stock as it came:
Comparing Star frame to stock E2 w/ samurai trigger, Ego frame trigger guard is bigger, trigger is more comfortable and adjustable, choose between magnetic or spring, lighter and overall just a more comfortable frame:
Step 1: Mounting the board in the frame.
When looking at the two frames and different boards you will discover the first problem when doing this mod, not all of the mounting holes on the board are the same which in turn makes the frame mounting points be in different locations also. In the picture the green circles represent the mounting points that are the same on both frames and both boards, the red circles represent the differences in both. As you can see the two back mounting points are the same but the front mounting points are different on each:
Some might be thinking ok I will just leave out the front mounting screw but there is more to it then just that. As you see below the board will fit in the frame without any mods, it is a very tight fit but it will go in:
I dont know if you can see it in the picture above but the board is not sitting flush on the mounting points. Where the front mount hole is located on the ego board there is a part soldered on the back of the E2 board:
Picture of it in the frame:
This not only keeps the board from not sitting level but also stops the trigger from fitting in the frame by blocking the front hole that the arm (part that breaks the optical switch) comes in at.
To fix this the front mount point must be grinded down:
To do this I used a dremel with the bit shown in the pic below (there is still pumpkin on the dremel from Halloween incase your wondering what it is):
What it should look like when your done, just bring it down to flush with the the rest of the frame:
As you can see the board now sits flush and the trigger can be installed and pulled all the way back:
This is where another problem pops up, the trigger is rubbing just alittle bit on the inside of the optical switch and creating alittle bit of drag that is stopping the trigger from returning quickly:
To solve this problem just file the trigger arm down just alittle bit.
As you can see it wasnt very much filing at all to fix the problem.
Now you should have the board perfectly mounted in the frame and trigger fully functioning, all that is left is how to trip the optical switch since it is mounted offset compared to being centered on 06 boards. This will come at the end of this walk through as the trigger and board need to be removed to cut and mount the frame to the body.
Step 2: Cutting and mounting the frame to the body
How stock frame fits on the body:
How the star frame sits right out of the box:
This is what will be moded during this step in the walkthrough, the front nose will to be cut off to move the frame forward on the body and two new mounting holes will be drilled into the frame. Yes there are others ways to mount it but I find this the most comfortable and best balanced:
Notice by following the next steps you will be cutting off the front mount for mounting on a Ego, once you cut off the front your frame can never be mounted back on a ego again!
First you want to cut the front nose off so the frame can be moved forward to achieve better overall balance. How much you cut off will depend on what vertical ASA you are using. Mine requires that I cut it back alittle farther back then how far the trigger guard sticks out as the vertical ASA on my eclipse body is bigger at the top then the bottom. Measure twice cut once! I also left about 1/8 of material to file down to the perfect size instead of going for it all at once.
Line marked for cutting:
I am using a hacksaw with a fine metal cutting blade for this part. I put the frame in a vice with a towel around it to protect it from the vice itself. Once in the vice you want to use a level to make sure it is nice and level before you proceed with cutting:
You should end up with something like this: