Quest Parts Breakdown and Troubleshooting:
Parts Breakdown and Pictures
O-Ring Functions and Common Problems:
Back o-ring (1st, counting from the back) - this seals air in to the back of the marker. A leak around the back of the pin can be resolved by cleaning and greasing - or if necessary, replacing - this o-ring.
2nd o-ring - this o-ring separates low pressure air from the solenoid, from HP air entering the back of the bolt kit. If this o-ring leaks, you will see a pressure increase on the LP gauge, and your bolt will be pushed forwards.
This may lead to your marker firing when you gas it up.
Middle o-ring (3rd from the back) - this o-ring also separates LP and HP air, though this time, the HP air in question is stored in the dump chamber. Again, if this o-ring leaks, your bolt will be forced forwards, and the marker may fire when gassed up.
Hard to tell which of these two o-rings is at fault, as the symptoms are the same, so you can either switch each out in turn, and see which fixes the problem, or you may just prefer to switch them both out - after all, if they are both the same age, they probably have similar levels of wear.
4th o-ring - this o-ring stops more air entering the dump chamber when the bolt is forwards, ensuring that the marker shoots from a fixed volume of air. If you have lower than expected shot counts when running long dwell settings, this o-ring may need cleaning or replacing.
Front o-ring (5th from back) - this o-ring seals air in the dump chamber prior to the marker firing. A leak down the barrel could be down to this o-ring.
Rear o-ring - this is the bolt sail o-ring - the o-ring on which the LP air acts to cycle the bolt back and forth. If this o-ring is dirty or damaged, the bolt may not cycle, or it may be pushed forwards. Again, this could lead to the marker firing when it is gassed up.
The difference between this and the pin o-rings, is that a pressure change will not register on the LP gauge.
Middle o-ring - this is another o-ring that separates HP and LP air. If this o-ring is dirty or needs replacing, you will see the LP gauge pressure rise, but in this instance, the bolt will stay in the rear position.
Front o-ring - if this o-ring is dirty or needs replacing, it will cause a leak down the barrel. Again, it is hard to know whether it is this o-ring or the front pin o-ring that is the cause of a leak down the barrel, so you will need to either try each o-ring in turn, or replace both.
FEP Contact Info and Return Instructions:
Here is the info for sending your gun in, calling the shop with questions and the website for ordering. You can always call the shop and place your orders!
FEP TAKES PAYPAL!!!!!
Sending your guns for work? CALL FIRST then send here:
First Endeavor Paintball, Inc.
1601 Pacific Ave. #204
Oxnard, CA 93033
When in doubt on any question or help call the shop!!!!
1. Call FEP.
2. FEP gives you an RMA number.
3. You put the RMA number on the outside of the box so it is CLEARLY visable.
4. HERE IS THE IMPORTANT PART: Include contact information, warranty card, problem, and what you have done; Even if you’ve already explained it on the phone!
5. Mail to the correct address.
FEP has received markers with NOTHING but the marker in the box. They are mailed from stores (UPS, FedEx, etc) with NO return information. Not even a name on the box. It makes it hard to have good customer service from the repair department if they cannot contact the sender. I'm sure most people would want the marker back ASAP.
Correct Battery Installation:
First Time Quest Owner Basics:
Many ballers have been able to shoot their quests at insanely low pressures such as Cdimic with 35-45 psi. DON’T ATTEMPT this until your gun is thoroughly broken in. Once you have balled a whole summer with it then try adjustments. There is no reason to rush into tweaking your settings to soon. <<<THIS is what we believe has caused the majority of the shootdown issues and consistency issues some experience.
A solid 75-100 lpr will treat you just fine. Many long time members keep their LPR at about 80. We get a barely noticeable amount of kick but never worry about FSDO. Don’t mess with perfection. Leave the markers as stock as possible with 80-100 psi. ONCE broken in, and you have learned the gun then slowly tweak it. Drop it 5psi a month or so.
LU_aDaK’s 10 Max Performance Tips.
1) NEW BATTERIES, (not dollar store ones) - a new battery can fix a million issues before you create more issues messing with settings, lube amounts, and pressure.
2) Middle urethane bolt oring!
3) HATER SAUCE FTW
4) Don’t overlube the regulators
5) Lube bolt and pin every case.
6) Don’t mess with your settings just because you can.
7) AntiBolt stick is your friend it will help your get rid of your FSDO without making you raise your dwell to high.
8) If your lpr is creeping, check your lpr spring, if its soft (depresses more than a few millimeters), call fep and get a new one.
9) ****If FEP LOCKTIGHTED any part on your gun, DONT UNDO IT! Red Locktight should be like a stopsign, red means put your tools away and don’t touch unless they tell you to.....which im betting they wont.
10) Enjoy the Quest, show it off.
ADD: Pictures of Oring Locations and sizes
1) Turn the HPR in (clockwise) about 3 threads past flush on the bottom of the regulator housing.
2) Turn the LPR regulator in (clockwise) until the marker begins to fire and stop.
3) After the marker starts to fire, turn the LPR 1/4 - 1/2 a turn further in and leave alone.
4) Take the marker to a chronograph and turn the HPR in for an increase in velocity or out for a decrease in velocity to achieve 300 fps.
How to Manually Set an HPR to approximately 220psi:
Set up a spare asa adaptor with a gauge and turn off the on/off or plug the extra holes. Then screw in your regulator to the gauged ASA. That means your cp reg, 2 litre, stock reg, or whatever reg you’re using on your gun. Then run tank pressure to this reg while its hooked up. Use the HPR wrenches to set your hpr OUTPUT by this gauge.
Use the lpr gauge on the gun to set THAT pressure.
AlternativePB Solenoid Harness Replacement How To:
Step 1. Remove grip frame and take the solenoid out of the marker.
Step 2. Remove broken solenoid harness off the solenoid, and clean the prongs.
Step 3. Solder on new solenoid harness and heat the heatshrink tubing over the solder joints.
Step 4. Unplug old battery harness from board, and plug in new battery harness.
Step 5. Install the solenoid back in the marker, and connect the solenoid harness to the battery harness:
Step 6. Install the grip frame back on marker, and make sure all the cables are not pinched... and tuckedaway. Install battery.
Step 7. Turn on marker, turn off eyes, and click the trigger to see if the solenoid is clicking.
Step 8. Close grips and you are done.
How to Check for Eye Physical vs. Electronic Problems: (Advanced users)
To make sure the eyes/board weren't bad I had stock eyes and an APE board. The APE people recommended:
Try a setpoint default operation first.
Next, try a test to see if the board eye input is functional:
(WARNING: Not responsible for you frying your board. Don't try this if you don't know what you're doing. This is an untested method and possibly only good for an APE board!)
Pull the eye harness out of the socket.
Take a small screwdriver and short the 2 top socket pins together.
Pull the trigger twice... LED should change to purple (empty breech)
Remove the screwdriver, LED should revert to semi.
If that works, the board is working and eyes are bad.