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Old 07-10-2014, 11:29 AM #1
SimplyOutkast
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Ozark Mountains
 has been a member for 10 years
Velocity Issues & More...Suggestions Needed

Hey Guys,

So here's my question, below is my ANS GX-3 Cocker, Planet Eclipse E2 E-blade stock, and stock ANS front end with LPC. Custom Products V2 inline reg, and all stock internals except Shocktech bolt.

Part 1

My main problem is getting the gun to a high enough velocity, the highest I've seen is 274, and the gun fluctuates from 245,256,263,270,262, currently I can't get the gun above 230, I've tried sweetspotting the reg, adjusting the LPR, I apparently don't know what I'm doing.

The gun was running somewhat consistent, just low velocities, but I started to jack with it at D'day this year and now it's really out of whack. A guy at D'dday who appeared to know what he was doing adjusted several different E2 modes, dwell settings, LPR changes, and the highest he could get it was 262, and then it would drop to the 240 range.

The guy said the reg is either wrong for the gun, or that it needs a stronger spring which I assume he's talking about the one in front of the IVG valve.

What should I buy/do to get higher velocities on the gun? Is this CP reg a bad combo for this autococker?

Part 2

Upon resolving the velocity issue, I would like to get some QEV's installed on the gun, and have looked into lower tube kits like this

Belsales Autococker Nexus Rex Dialer lower tube kit

http://paintballgateway.com/beaunerexdil.html

What would this kit benefit, would I be better off with a whole lower tube internals kit?

Would a lower pressure internals kit help instead?

Out of all these kit's on the page below, can you reccomend one?

http://paintballgateway.com/lotuinki.html

Additionally, should I keep the stock ANS ram and put the QEV's on it or get a different ram?

Thank You for your time.

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Last edited by SimplyOutkast : 07-10-2014 at 12:18 PM.
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Old 07-10-2014, 11:46 AM #2
Darkapollo
 
 
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The LPR has nothing to do with the velocity. You want that set to just high enough to reliably recock the gun +1/4 turn.
The HPR and spring combo with effect the velocity and to a good extent the barrel paint match as well. I have seen the numbers go all over the place with a bad barrel match.
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Old 07-10-2014, 12:08 PM #3
hadjii
 
 
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I was having a similar issue with one of my cockers. I think my issue was that I was using a low pressure output tank, so I wasn't able to get enough pressure through the hpr. What kind of tank are you using?

Other than that I would look towards the hammer spring or IVG adjustments. Barrel matching is a good point too.
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Old 07-10-2014, 12:21 PM #4
SimplyOutkast
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Using Ninja 90/4500 grey ghost with standard regulator, I will check when I get home.
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Old 07-10-2014, 03:11 PM #5
hadjii
 
 
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That tank should be fine. As long as it has the standard reg that probably isn't the issue. The inline reg you have should be fine as well. I would try adjusting the IVG to up the velocity. Also I might try resetting the factory settings on the e2. Idk what that guy adjusted but if he turned down the cdel too much the valve might not be open long enough.
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Old 07-14-2014, 09:40 PM #6
oldguyaaron31
 
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
A problem I once had was a mismatch in main spring strength and hpr pressure. If the hpr pressure is too high, the hammer cannot open the valve fully or consistently with a relatively weak main spring. Something to try may be turning the hpr way down and working your way up slowly. Hope it helps.
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Old 10-12-2014, 12:49 AM #7
djinnform
 
 
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same problem on my Karni, will let you know if I ever solve it
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Old 10-12-2014, 08:11 AM #8
bonusball024
 
 
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If you are sweetspotting your reg with your IVG flush with the Autococker body, then try to screw in your IVG a few turns and re-sweetspot your reg. Too much adjusting in increasing or decreasing pressure in your inline reg will cause your overall velocity to drop because of the pressure it puts on the valve and poppit, or there will be too little pressure going into the gun.

If that doesn't work you can try looking into a spring kit, that'll help more than anything you listed, for boosting velocity.

Try breaking down your reg and relubing/rebuilding it if you see something that needs replacing, then run it back on the marker as well. I have a BM reg on my Mini Orracle that I never really shot since buying it new. Once I went to take the gun back out to see how good to go it still was I could not get the pressure up in the gun enough to fire it. After taking it down relubing and putting it back together it's been great ever since.

Your best bet though, is gonna be turning your IVG in a few turns and using a spring kit. Try that first because you may not need to buy a lower internal kit at all.
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Last edited by bonusball024 : 10-12-2014 at 08:14 AM.
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Old 10-12-2014, 10:35 AM #9
vantrepes
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First things first, don't buy any new parts yet.
Take off the grip frame, and check the valve jam nut. You don't have to pull the entire internals, just take off the frame, and using a small pick, see if you can move the jam nut. It should be rock solid.
If you aren't 100% sure the jam nut is tight by using the pick, remove the valve plug in the body of the gun, and try to rotate the valve body. Again, if you can move it at all, it's a serious problem.
If either part moves, pull the hammer, and tighten down the jam nut.
If the jam nut is loose, it can limit the hammer travel against the valve stem, causing low velocity. That's an issue, but the real problem is that it can destroy the threads in the body, and render the body of the gun useless.
For details, see the my old site in my signature, there's a walk through on installing a valve, which should cover you.

Once that is out of the way, you need to check the inline regulators output. You will need an ASA of some kind, and a gauge. Gas it up, and look for the pressure to creep up. If it does, rebuild the reg with a new reg seat.
You should also be able to adjust it from near zero to over 500 psi. If the reg can't do that, pull the reg apart, give it a cleaning, and rebuild it.

Once you have confirmed the mechanical aspects are working correctly, then you should try to sweet spot the inline.
There's an article on how to do it in the site in my signature. I wrote it years ago so I wouldn't have to keep typing it up in posts like this

Start with the IVG at the mid point of it's travel, and see what results you get. If the sweet spot is too high, then back out the IVG, and redo the sweet spot.
The sweet spot is a balancing point between the force of the hammer trying to open the valve, and the valve spring, and the valves resistance to opening because of air pressure.
You can easily control two of those variables, the main spring tension, and input pressure, so you will be working with both of those.
While doing this, I'd suggest turning up the LPR so the gun cocks with the IVG half way in, and leaving it there for now. You can turn the LPR down and smooth out the cycle once the gun is shooting at field speeds.

Focus on ONE THING AT A TIME. Get the gun shooting at speed, and running as well as it can with what's already in it, then you can think about things you want to improve in the performance of the gun later on down the road.
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