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Old 07-21-2008, 12:30 PM #1
eelcocker
 
 
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e2 orracle value

Hi
I saw a deal for a used e2 orracle for 350 with n2 and a few ups, is that a good deal?
Also how can I tell apart an e1 from an e2?

Last edited by eelcocker : 07-21-2008 at 12:35 PM.
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Old 07-21-2008, 12:55 PM #2
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the screen is the easiest way. the e-1 is red leds the e2 is a blue lcd.
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Old 07-21-2008, 12:58 PM #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yanko693 View Post
the screen is the easiest way. the e-1 is red leds the e2 is a blue lcd.
Unless the E1 has a Zero-B board. Then they will look very similar.

If you put an E1 and E2 side by side, you can see a difference in the design of the trigger.

If the HPA tank is of a good brand and the hydro date is still good, then it is a good deal.
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Old 07-21-2008, 01:10 PM #4
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the zero-b also has the lcd screen. so e2 or zero-b same thing there just slightly different screen sizes.
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Old 07-21-2008, 01:30 PM #5
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look at the solenoid cover


the upper right one is the e2 style. It is fully enclosed

this is another shot of the e2 frame with e2 solenoid cover



this is an e1 frame with e2 solenoid cover
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Old 07-21-2008, 02:02 PM #6
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correct it...that chaos has an e1 frame with e1 solenoid.....
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Old 07-21-2008, 02:16 PM #7
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lot of people have an e1 and buy an e2 noid cover thats why i said the screens because its fool proof.
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Old 07-21-2008, 02:52 PM #8
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Oh ya there is a much easier way to tell the frame apart notice the top button is like a water drop shaped.

vs
the e1 is a round top button like below


This is the best way to tell the difference between the frame.

and board is what Yanko693 said from above.

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Old 07-21-2008, 02:56 PM #9
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good observation. lol i never noticed that before. and that is an xonik frame on the bottom but its identical to an e-1 other than the button hole's lining up.
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Old 07-21-2008, 03:13 PM #10
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i never notice that also.

sometimes people consider having a e2/zero board with the e1 frame the same thing as having a e2 board with e2 frame. when newer version of the karnivor r listed they usually r listed as e2 frame but r really only e2 board with the worr blade.
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Old 07-21-2008, 03:16 PM #11
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Ya but having an e1 frame with samurai trigger + zerob board and e2 solenoid cover feels the same as having a e2 hardward with samurai trigger.
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Old 07-21-2008, 04:25 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noclue119 View Post
Ya but having an e1 frame with samurai trigger + zerob board and e2 solenoid cover feels the same as having a e2 hardward with samurai trigger.
Ehhh. Not really. The trigger guard on the E2 frame is rounded on the edges while the E1 edges are squared off. That makes the E2 frame a whole lot more comfortable to me. Also, the E2 grips are much skinnier than the E1 grips.
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Old 07-21-2008, 08:50 PM #13
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Ehhh. Not really. The trigger guard on the E2 frame is rounded on the edges while the E1 edges are squared off. That makes the E2 frame a whole lot more comfortable to me. Also, the E2 grips are much skinnier than the E1 grips.

how do you even notice the edges lol.....first i thought you were describing the worrblade vs e2....but thats the trigger guard itself....not the edges of the trigger guard.....i never even noticed it and had to go check it....but i think its cuz i have many ecockers with all the different versions(e1/e2/worrblade)....and now that you mention it....

i NOTICE it now lol....but the main difference between e2 and e1/worrblade to me is the actual pivot point of the trigger.....i feel it while trying to rip on the trigger.....having to do it different....
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Old 07-21-2008, 09:01 PM #14
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how do you even notice the edges lol.....
The trigger guard digs into my fingers when I hold the E1, and doesn't when I hold the E2.
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Old 07-25-2008, 04:16 PM #15
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If its an e1 is it still a good deal?
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Old 07-25-2008, 05:03 PM #16
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no. I got an e2 mini orracle with all upped pneumatics, a hopper and tank and 2 barrels either than the stock one like a year ago for 375
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Old 07-25-2008, 05:04 PM #17
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What else does it come with? How big a tank? What brand? When does the hydro test expire? Does it come with a hopper? Does it come with a barrel kit?

If it's just a Orracle with an E1 on it, and a few low-name/no-name ups on it then it's not worth more than $250.
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Old 07-25-2008, 05:13 PM #18
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mine was a 68 4500 SP tank with pure energy reg, basicly brand new rip drive halo, CP 1 peice barrel, dye ultralight 16 inch.
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Old 07-25-2008, 08:04 PM #19
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Its got a steey, 12v rev, stock and boomstick, stock and extra bolt, mask and old version e2(not an e1) with eye.
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Old 07-25-2008, 08:16 PM #20
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Originally Posted by eelcocker View Post
Its got a steey, 12v rev, stock and boomstick, stock and extra bolt, mask and old version e2(not an e1) with eye.
That's not worth $350.

Used steely tanks are worth maybe $20, if you can even find a buyer at all. 12v Revy's another $20. Mask? Pfft. One stock barrel and one boomstick, also not significant enough to really raise the price. At least the stuff that came with Tipp's deal is stuff worth keeping/using.

If the board in there is a geniune E2 board sitting in an E1 frame, then it's worth maybe $50 more, so $270 or so. If it's an E2 frame with E2 board, and E2 solenoid housing, then it's worth ~$300. Even at $300, it's difficult to find -any- buyer for a cocker.
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Old 07-26-2008, 08:15 AM #21
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Originally Posted by CrazyLittle View Post
That's not worth $350.

Used steely tanks are worth maybe $20, if you can even find a buyer at all. 12v Revy's another $20. Mask? Pfft. One stock barrel and one boomstick, also not significant enough to really raise the price. At least the stuff that came with Tipp's deal is stuff worth keeping/using.

If the board in there is a geniune E2 board sitting in an E1 frame, then it's worth maybe $50 more, so $270 or so. If it's an E2 frame with E2 board, and E2 solenoid housing, then it's worth ~$300. Even at $300, it's difficult to find -any- buyer for a cocker.
I would not pay more than 250 - 270 tops.
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