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Old 10-12-2007, 12:41 AM #1
xluben
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UL Fusion (teaser pics)

after seeing these threads i decided to try the UL fusion for myself:

http://www.dpowners.org/forums/viewt...47a15699fdca50

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2123112

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2123111

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2135756

^the above user claimed it was a direct bolt on, just solder the noid wires.

just looking at pics of the PM5 UL and my brothers stock PM5 frame i had a
feeling this wasn't going to be the case. noid doesn't fit into the frame
(width or depth) and screw holes were about 1/8" off. but i figured i'd buy a
PM5 UL and try it anyways.

i got my PM5 UL frame today, and (not surprisingly) it's not as easy as the other guy claimed.

good new: the frame does bolt on! oval shape screw holes allow it to fit the fusion body with no modification.

bad news: doesn't fit on with the noid. it's too thin AND there's not enough depth.

widening the frame opening shouldn't be too much of a problem, but i'm a little
concerned about the depth. it's not quite as bad as i had expected, so i still
may try to get it to fit. probably a couple of mm of board are going to have
to go, though.

enough talk, time for pics:



^NIB, glad i didn't pay that much

now for on gun:





another bummer: RAPS doesn't fit on the dovetail

my conclusion is that the other guy just mocked up the frame (like i just did)
and then claimed it worked. the part that scares me is that he tried to sell it
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Old 10-12-2007, 01:24 AM #2
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man if only that slight tail end of the frame sat flush it would be perfect! looks great tho..

yah funny how some people only have pics of some new mod they did that they never actually got working lol

the new universal tboard comes out soon if u still cant fit board and noid in the frame that might be a good alternative

since its a pretty full bodied gun if you could find a small maybe half inch tray youd have more room to stuff things in and with a tray you could probably move the frame all the way up to the reg to make it a more compact feel...would probably look sick too and save u room and milling time
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Old 10-12-2007, 01:27 AM #3
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looks awesome lets see it work though
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Old 10-12-2007, 02:12 AM #4
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got the RAPS on (with the DP rail):



here's my spacing issues:

dp fusion solenoid is 1/2" tall and wide:



^pic makes it look like slightly more than 1/2" but it's not.

UL frame has 7/16" width:



and it has about 3/8" depth until it hits the eye connector



that depth is gonna be a problem not sure what to do yet....
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Old 10-12-2007, 02:23 AM #5
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like i said i think a new board would have to be used in order to get the noid in there, or a rail of some sort...if u could use a dm4 board and mount it on the lower end of the frame and have the battery on top of that and the noid on top of that it would probably fit decently...dont have measurements of a dm4 board but theyre more compact then a long board
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Old 10-12-2007, 02:25 AM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithdizzle247 View Post
like i said i think a new board would have to be used in order to get the noid in there, or a rail of some sort...if u could use a dm4 board and mount it on the lower end of the frame and have the battery on top of that and the noid on top of that it would probably fit decently...dont have measurements of a dm4 board but theyre more compact then a long board
budget = $0 or close to it.

i'm still thinking....

if i wait long enough maybe i'll have money
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Old 10-12-2007, 03:08 AM #7
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sell or trade the board in the frame for a DM4 board, they can't be too expensive
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Old 10-12-2007, 11:41 AM #8
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considering the dp doesnt use the ribbon eyes you could take off the eye connecter then make a adapter to fit your stock dp eyes to the board and solder that on to the board. That would elimate the eye connetor
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Old 10-12-2007, 01:23 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EdgeArmyCol View Post
considering the dp doesnt use the ribbon eyes you could take off the eye connecter then make a adapter to fit your stock dp eyes to the board and solder that on to the board. That would elimate the eye connetor
Thats not an issue, I'm going to hook him up with one of my spare dm ul boards.. so that will just use a normal molex connector..And the eye wire hookup is located in a different spot on the dm board so that may relieve the issue with depth as well.. of course depending on where exactly the noid is held.

His issue would be the depth needed for the solenoid. I kind of need a visual on exactly where the solenoid sits, within the frame to see if there will actually be enough room within the frame if it were to be milled.
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Old 10-12-2007, 02:08 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MVPBRENT View Post
Thats not an issue, I'm going to hook him up with one of my spare dm ul boards.. so that will just use a normal molex connector..And the eye wire hookup is located in a different spot on the dm board so that may relieve the issue with depth as well.. of course depending on where exactly the noid is held.

His issue would be the depth needed for the solenoid. I kind of need a visual on exactly where the solenoid sits, within the frame to see if there will actually be enough room within the frame if it were to be milled.
hey, send me a PM or something to let me know what's going on with the dye board.

also, if you have a pic of it in the UL frame that 'd be great!
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Old 10-12-2007, 05:46 PM #11
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Old 10-12-2007, 05:51 PM #12
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we did this last year or so.. I will get pixs from my buddy tha thas it... we use a PM5 U/L frame had the frame milled and had to use a space about a half inch or so... an also we used a different noid...
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Old 10-12-2007, 06:15 PM #13
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use a pm noid?
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Old 10-12-2007, 10:36 PM #14
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if you wanted to use the stock noid youd need a spacer/tray or you try and get ahold of a smaller noid
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Old 10-12-2007, 10:46 PM #15
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this project is pretty much scrapped. i hooked up the dp fusion noid to the
UL board and got nothing. the UL board just doesn't have the power required
to push the fusion noid. the fusion noid operates at 7V+ and the matrix noid only
requires 5V. not sure what the current requirements, but the fusion board
has a big cap sitting on it, so it's probably a lot.

i already had a couple people ready to machine me a spacer/tray for a pretty
good price, but i don't have the time/money to do this right (meaning new
noid and/or board and/or spacer). so i'm suspending this project indefinitely.
maybe next summer.....
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Old 10-12-2007, 11:54 PM #16
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I think it was a Etek or Ego noid that was used.... I'll try to get pics in the next few days prolly monday
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Old 10-13-2007, 12:07 AM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96 Ls lnteg View Post
I think it was a Etek or Ego noid that was used.... I'll try to get pics in the next few days prolly monday
i'm not familiar with those, but i assume that means you added barbs/qev's and hoses?

also probably a decent sized tray?
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Old 10-13-2007, 01:36 AM #18
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I really hope you get this working, because that looks sooo badass.
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Old 10-13-2007, 01:49 AM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
this project is pretty much scrapped. i hooked up the dp fusion noid to the
UL board and got nothing. the UL board just doesn't have the power required
to push the fusion noid. the fusion noid operates at 7V+ and the matrix noid only
requires 5V. not sure what the current requirements, but the fusion board
has a big cap sitting on it, so it's probably a lot.

i already had a couple people ready to machine me a spacer/tray for a pretty
good price, but i don't have the time/money to do this right (meaning new
noid and/or board and/or spacer). so i'm suspending this project indefinitely.
maybe next summer.....
"a couple poeple" eh?

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Old 10-13-2007, 01:50 AM #20
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did you seriously pay 249 for a pm5 ul frame? Proto has had pm5 ul's for 59.95 for while now.

btw heres a link http://www.protopaintball.com/productsmain.html
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Old 10-13-2007, 01:52 AM #21
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No he didn't.
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