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03-02-2013, 07:55 PM
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#1
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E2 front solenoid question. Need direction
Am I wrong in thinking that the E2 front solenoid is not serviceable If it is I have a leak coming from some where and wondering if the gasket is gone but not sure as how to remove the solenoid from the surround housing.
I turned the LPR right down, so no air was getting to solenoid but once I started to turn it up ,the leak started and got worse as I turned the LPR UP.
So I'm wondering if its the gasket (if the E2's have one)
If you have any ideas that would be great or if you could point me in the direction of a thread that I'm looking for.
Thanks
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03-02-2013, 08:26 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wichita, KS- ICT
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i would downloaded the e2 eblade manual online. it has detail instructions on how to disassemble/service your eblade setup. do a search for the pdf.
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03-02-2013, 10:09 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Guatemala (for real)
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03-03-2013, 01:57 PM
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#4
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Don't eat that....
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Lynn, AR
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the solenoids are the same for all wgp/eblade cockers and use the same gasket. theres 2 screws on the bottom that hold it to the manifold, pretty simple to get to it. unplug the cocking noid from the board so you have some slack in the wire to pull it out though.
try cleaning the gasket and putting it back in place with a little grease on it, lpr might have just been turned up too high and blew it out of place. if that doesnt work then you can get a new gasket at www.paintballgateway.com
its pretty hard to blow the solenoid at least, they're designed to vent before the pressure gets high enough.
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03-04-2013, 05:06 PM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebel_816
the solenoids are the same for all wgp/eblade cockers and use the same gasket. theres 2 screws on the bottom that hold it to the manifold, pretty simple to get to it. unplug the cocking noid from the board so you have some slack in the wire to pull it out though.
try cleaning the gasket and putting it back in place with a little grease on it, lpr might have just been turned up too high and blew it out of place. if that doesnt work then you can get a new gasket at www.paintballgateway.com
its pretty hard to blow the solenoid at least, they're designed to vent before the pressure gets high enough.
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Thank you everybody
I have it removed from the marker. So do you pry the solenoid out of the housing to get at the screws, it seems to be sitting tight in the housing.
Thanks again
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03-04-2013, 05:18 PM
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#6
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Don't eat that....
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Lynn, AR
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no no you dont pry anying. theres 2 screws on the bottom of the solenoid holding it to the housing.
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03-04-2013, 05:33 PM
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#7
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Don't eat that....
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Lynn, AR
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edit:
ok, forgot were talking about an e2 noid...honestly im not sure how to take these apart. on the others the screws are exposed on the bottom...opened mine up and on these it looks like its put together with the manifold and slid down into the housing. i dont see anything holding it in place but mines in there pretty tight too. hopefully someone will confirm it just takes a little coaxing out...typically the words "pry" and "solenoid" should never be in the same sentence lol.
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03-04-2013, 06:36 PM
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#8
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Lol. Yes I agree that's why I need to find out before I do anything. Lol
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03-05-2013, 07:05 AM
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#9
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Not Lazy........ Just Fat
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Monmouth County NJ
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there should be 2 screws to remove the top cover on the e2 noid. Then the noid and the "plate" that the hoses attach to should slide out together. You may have to wiggle it a little but I wouldn't go as far as prying.
Take pictures when you take the noid apart. It's VERY easy to rebuild one with parts upside down and it's just a PITA to have to tare it down again. Also keep in mind that you should use very little lube inside the noid. I usually clean with q-tips and apply a little lurker lube. Do NOT use an oil based lube on a cocker with a noid.
Oh, also as far as checking the gasket......The E2 gasket is MUCH easier to set properly on the noid. Put a tiny dab of lube on the gasket and it should stick to the noid/hose housing fine. Remember to turn off the LPR and slowly turn it back on to test for leaks, you will have to sweet spot the lpr again.
Last edited by Rancid1845 : 03-05-2013 at 07:08 AM.
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03-05-2013, 06:59 PM
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#10
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Ok sounds good Rancid. Thank you for the information. Just need to find time to do it. Like I had mentioned of another thread. Both the cocker and the E2 have never been used of gassed up. So I'm thinking a full tear down and tube is in order to get it up and running.
Thanks again.
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03-12-2013, 01:35 AM
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#11
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Florida
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my gun is doin the same thing........the one in my sig and its blowing air out the noid like crazy from the top part i took it apart nothing blown relubed and still doin it..............idk wat to do
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03-12-2013, 10:45 AM
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#12
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a bad ram seal and to high of a lpr pressure will cause the noid to leak also
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03-12-2013, 05:15 PM
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#13
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: New Jersey
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Also, just be sure your noid is unplugged from your board and frame is atleast somewhat unscrewed from the marker to let the wire slide thru.
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03-12-2013, 11:26 PM
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#14
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Florida
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it worked fine for yrs all of a sudden this
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03-13-2013, 12:04 AM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IceMan56607
it worked fine for yrs all of a sudden this
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is your lpr a palmer
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03-14-2013, 09:07 PM
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#16
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Florida
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ya y
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03-14-2013, 09:13 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Florida
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my boy was using it and got shot right in the noid and now its leaking
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04-17-2013, 07:15 PM
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#18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rancid1845
there should be 2 screws to remove the top cover on the e2 noid. Then the noid and the "plate" that the hoses attach to should slide out together. You may have to wiggle it a little but I wouldn't go as far as prying.
Take pictures when you take the noid apart. It's VERY easy to rebuild one with parts upside down and it's just a PITA to have to tare it down again. Also keep in mind that you should use very little lube inside the noid. I usually clean with q-tips and apply a little lurker lube. Do NOT use an oil based lube on a cocker with a noid.
Oh, also as far as checking the gasket......The E2 gasket is MUCH easier to set properly on the noid. Put a tiny dab of lube on the gasket and it should stick to the noid/hose housing fine. Remember to turn off the LPR and slowly turn it back on to test for leaks, you will have to sweet spot the lpr again.
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i got a gun off ebay and the noid leaked like a mo fo... i used a thin thin film of black silicone gasket sealer on the little gasket... yes it was messy, lol. but no leaks. caution.. when re assembling... back your lpr out before airing the marker up! and when you air the marker up, all you need is enough air to cock your marker 
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04-17-2013, 07:57 PM
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#19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hmcl281
is your lpr a palmer
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interesting.... why palmers?
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