Just received this project yesterday. Picked up the Tarantula milled body and all the other needed hardware minus a board and frame. I had a Etek star frame laying around and I prematurely purchased a Dye PM5 UL frame with out doing more researching and finding out it wont work without a tray.
Right now I am at the point where I am trying to decide what frame and board to go with. So far Im considering using the Etek frame with a tray no thicker than a 1/4". The other frame Im considering as well is a Legend frame which is what the nice fella I bought the project from was intending to use.
My ultimate goal would be to find either a blue fork or elia frame but I doubt if there are any out there that their owners are willing to sell them.
I saw another Evil M project using a tray and it looked really nice and I think mine should look nice as well cause my tray looks like it will be a decent amount thinner. Im going to shorten the frame in the front which Ive already done and the same with the back. Any open space left in the back of the frame after I shorten it I will have some aluminum weld added to fill in at the cut and I will smooth it all out.
Thanks for the help. I signed up over there to see if I can find one. I think for now I can make one tray that will bolt to the body and have the tray threaded to mount both the etek and ul frame to it.
Thought I'd repost a review I wrote a few years ago.
Originally Posted by skinnyfatguy
I've been meaning to write a review of the frames I've owned so here it goes:
Acid Customs Frame: I'd call it moderately pricey ($300), although it came with a carbon fiber trigger and aluminum grip panels. This was by far the easiest frame to set up. It mounts right on, takes a custom trigger (included) and fits '06 cyborg board. The over all height is average for M frames, although where your thumb notches into was a bit lower that of frames of similar height causing you to hold the frame more towards the bottom of it. This just felt weird along with my dislike for aluminum and plastic grip panels. John did a run of 6 of these, although he has mentioned the possibility of another run if there is demand. I have nothing but good things to say about my dealings with John.
Elia Frame: The most expensive frame when you add up all the extras ($250, $280, or $300 depending on which run you ordered). It takes all '07 Ego components, which definitely add up. While this should have been a simple bolt on and wire up, most people had minor issues which required some modification (mine came with the board mounting screws only tapped half way through, on the back half ). The over all height is average for M frames, although the feel is pretty good once cleaned up (lots of polishing needed as it only has rough cuts). Tony did three runs of these, however he had poor quality control as mentioned above, canceled several orders, and took much longer that he originally quoted with varying stories given to customers. I'm glad I finally received one (19 months from my original order), but dealing with Tony was a giant headache.
Cyborg Frame: One of if not the cheapest ($30) and most readily available frames to get a hold of. Either an additional mounting hole needs to be added or one of the existing ones needs to be take back a good deal. An area for the solenoid needs to milled out although there is plenty of room. The overall height is about the same as the AC and Elia frames, and the area where your thumb notches is somewhere in between causing you to hold the frame somewhere in the middle (never cared for this on '06 borgs). If you couldn't guess, it takes '06 Cyborg components. Many have been able to do the mentioned modifications themselves, although nearly any machinist should be able to take care of them for you.
AKA Prototype Frame: I worked out trade with Jared to get one of these so I don't really know where to rate pricing, but I ended up selling it for $200 to give an idea. These mount directly to the body and fit AKA triggers (a little light sanding may be needed). Unfortunately, these were designed to take a new Pandora board, but only one prototype board was ever produced. A UTB is about the only other thing that fits in, but it is floating and soldering/crimping the wiring harness is a PITA. If you're considering going this route it may be worth contacting Scenario Dreams to make you a harness with female Molex connectors (1.25mm pitch) soldered to the battery, solenoid, eye, and microswitch leads. This, the UL, and the T2 frames were all about tied as far as being the shortest. It was also probably my favorite frame as comfort goes (very similar to a stock Viking/Excal frame). Jared at Destructive Customs has a few of these laying around and when I talked to him he told me to make an offer when I asked about pricing.
PMR UL Frame: I'll call pricing on these moderate. A decent amount of work has to be done to get one of these to fit. The front area needs to be removed, a new mounting hole added in the trigger frame area and tapped into the body, the rear mounting hole extended, the trigger shaved down along the top/back, and some material removed to allow the solenoid to fit. The last step is tricky as there isn't much extra room and one I had done has a small slit where it was milled too far. A regular UL board will not fit and a UTB is the only one that will (see above for details on this). Again this is one of the shorter frames available and I don't think I need to describe the feel of a UL frame. These are no longer being produced although they can be found both new and used still on eBay and various forums with some searching.
Bluefork T2 Frame: These are moderately expensive (I paid $180), although price varies as they can only be found used now. To mount, the back hole needs to be extended slightly (~1mm) and either a new hole tapped into the body or a extender plate made. The solenoid will fit without any modifications, however underbody milling is necessary to run the eye wires. These come with a custom trigger, take DM4 or Angel LCD grips, and either an '06 Cyborg or Bushmaster board. As mentioned above, these are one of the shortest frames available. One thing to note is that the trigger is a littler farther from the back of the frame than on most others and took a little while to get used to, but didn't end up being a big deal. These are no longer being produced, and Greg has said he will not be producing any more. These are pretty rare, but do occasionally pop up in the b/s/t's although you may have to buy a whole gun to get one.
'07 Ego Frame with KPCS Tray: I don't know the exact pricing on this as I picked it up as part of a package. This was custom made by Ken at KPCS, although it sounds like langless28 measured the contour if someone else is looking to try this. This setup ending up being quite tall, as with most tray setups. Although the actual frame is quite nice, the height threw off the balance of the gun for me. I don't see many people wanting to go this route again.
Thanks for the post it was very helpful . I ran over to home depot last min 30 mins before closing time and I was able to find some aluminum flat bar for the tray. I only needed about a 7.5" piece but I had to buy an 8 foot piece lol. The tray is about a 1/4" wider than I need so I will have the extra material on the other side of the gun milled down.
Everything so far I did by hand using a hacksaw and a sander. Ill have the extra material on the other side milled though because I dont want to mess up and start all over.
At the front of the gun the tray is secured by one screw to the original threaded hole that came stock in the body. I did this because I didn't want to drill an extra hole at the front of the frame, so I used the original hole in the etek frame and drilled and tapped a new hole into the tray.
At the rear I just drilled a new hole through the frame and tray which were aligned to the stock threaded rear frame screw in the body.
When my ul frame shows up Ill just drill and tap the necessary holes into this tray and then I can swap out between frames if I want.
What is left to do is to mill or dremel out a opening in the tray for the solenoid to pass through. My friend has my dremel, so I'll pick that up tomorrow and use it or just get it milled as well. Any extra material in the tray that is not needed will be cut out also to make the tray lighter.
that is way awesome, like how that looks on there, frame and tray. did you happen to find out what type of aluminum the home depot stock is? if it is not the same quality as the rest of the marker, likely it wont be a good ano.
Ill have to check on the grade tomorrow. I was messing around with narrowwing the tray and opening up the center of the tray to allow the solenoid to pass through.
Originally my plan was to find a little machine shop to finish narrowing the tray and milling out the center for the solenoid. Well I was bored today and I went at it with a dull portable band saw to narrow the tray and a dremel with discs to cut out the center. The ugliest part is the center section but I still may find a place to clean it up on a mill.
I narrowed the tray with the band saw and cleaned up the cut with a sander. Once that was done I beveled the edge by hand with sandpaper where the tray meets the frame.
I think the stock that you got from home depot is the one below, does not say what type of aluminum it is, doubt anyone there would know, so unless there is a sticker on there saying what type, you wont find it.
I ended up going a different route for the finish on the frame and tray. To avoid having to worry about different grades of aluminum.
This is what the back look like after cutting it and the front already had an opening as well.
Took it to a local fab shop and had the holes welded shut then I shaped the back with the sander.
Once that was done i powdercoated the frame and tray gloss black. I also messed around with the stock trigger and rounded it off more and made a pointy end on it. Once I was done with that I polished it.
As of now the only thing left to do is anodize the body and final assembly.
Installed the RT valve yesterday. Made an eye harness today. I'll try and get a tank filled this weekend and try it out. Still undecided on what to do with the body, feedneck, vasa and asa. I'm thinking some sort of gloss black/red or black/purple acid wash.