I recently received two IONs in a trade. Best thing about an ION, they don't hold much value with players, or once they break people want nothing to do with them. Basically people see them as throw away.
Usually it's just a bad air line, o-ring or a battery cap. Which brings us to this repair how to.
Upon inspection of the board, I noticed that the negative battery wire had separated.
Normally after everything is said and done, it ends up being about a $40 repair, depending who you send it to, and what they charge.
So let's say we send it to GOG. about $10 to send and insure. $30 for repair and shipping back. I'm on the West Coast, so that would be what I would roughly pay (I insure everything).
Due to MCB members always noticing something out of the ordinary or different. A little info from our own desertT1 about diodes. Thanks for sharing, it helps with the diode questions and answers.
Thank you for letting me add this to my "How To":
Diodes across coils on solid state pinball machines | Peak Pinball and Jukebox
A regular diode allows the current to flow in only one direction, like a one-way check valve. When the coil is energized, there is no current flow through the diode because the current is going in the opposite direction for which the diode is installed. If you were to turn the diode around, all of the current would flow through the diode and not the coil, causing a short and likely burning up the diode. So at this point the diode is invisible to the coil.
As long as current is flowing though the coil, a magnetic field is maintained. When you release the flipper button, power is removed from the coil. But due to a variety of factors, including the plunger being inside the coil, it takes a little bit of time for that magnetic field to collapse. As the magnetic field collapses, it generates a current in the coil in the opposite direction that was used to create the magnetic field. So for a brief time, the current starts running backwards. Since itís now going in the opposite direction, it goes though the diode to the other side of the coil causing a momentary short across the coil. This short dissipates the power until the magnetic field is gone and the plunger is released. But the point is, for a brief time, there is still current flowing in the circuit, through the diode, after the button is released and a magnetic field is still holding the plunger.
So I remove the battery cap to find this. Looks like a simple fix.
Need the solder iron.
I cover the negative wire with a little solder. Then I lay it in the right area on the battery cap.
Make sure my solder iron is nice and hot and touch both the wire and existing solder for just a few seconds.
The end results, perfect solder. Just saved myself roughly $40.
Put back on the battery cap.
Put back into trigger frame, and it's ready to go.
Just a down and dirty how to. Hope you enjoyed it. Comments and criticisms are always welcome.