hello all AKA owners!

timmah333 · 09-25-2007, 02:27 PM

I am brand new to the AKA family. I have been a long time cocker owner until recently having to sell off all of my cockers. I am now shooting the DM5 in my sig.

I just bought a 2003 half mill viking with eyes and am super excited about it. I have always wanted a viking but had never had the opportunity to buy one until now.

The only thing wrong with it (supposedly) is that it has a bad board.

Is there any way to test that before buying a new board? (besides just putting a new battery in it and trying to fire it.)

I was looking at the Pandora board to replace the bad one. Do you guys recommend anything different?

Anyway, thanks for any help and if you have any tips I would really appreciate them.

TastePAINt88 · 09-25-2007, 02:36 PM

I got a 2004 viking in the mail recently with what I beleive is a bad board as well. My board is a Pandora board. First viking I had used a WAS board with no problems, just a little FSDO. The lastest board to come out I beleive is the Tadao which is in many other guns (including DMs) and which is what I want to replace my pandora with.

I dont know what board you have, but it wouldn't surprise me if the bad board in it is a pandora.

I dont see any problems with replacing it with another pandora board, just try a brand new one.

MeuroM · 09-25-2007, 02:40 PM

#1: Post pics, it's an unwritten rule around here...
#2: Welcome to the family
#3: What is the bad board and what is it doing?

custar · 09-25-2007, 02:40 PM

So YOU'RE the one who beat me to that marker.

You pretty much hit the method for testing a board unless you have a vlink cable. You could buy an inexpensive Nelson board and see if that will operate the marker. I keep one around for that purpose. It works as a back up also.

I have recently had a couple of Pandora boards go bad at the same time, leaving a bad taste in my mouth for those boards. I have a Tadao I like a lot, and the WAS boards are a bit less expensive than Pandoras. On the other hand, IIRC, you can pick still buy NIB Pandora boards which should come with a warranty. Last, Scenariodreams.com is releasing what it describes as a universal board in a few weeks. I was actually thinking of buying the marker you bought and sending it to ScenarioDreams to install one of their boards. Those boards run $50.00 but require what appears to be extensive wiring to hook them up. I was going to have SD do that unless their charges were high.

custar

Bux · 09-25-2007, 02:41 PM

You could go with the Tadao or with another pandora board.

Someguys around the AKA forum can flash pandora boards with so-called "r-mod" which gives you adjustable ramping on your pandora.

Tadao is like in every other gun too.
Easy trigger programming, very good software.

Just choose what you want.

In my opinion, if you can get your hands on a tadao, go with it, otherwise take a pandora and get it r-modded.

Hammar · 09-25-2007, 02:56 PM

WAS 2.0 seems to be the fastest Viking board and has the same functions as the Tadao

HeavyHitter · 09-25-2007, 03:11 PM

i heart tadao. its nice being able to only have to memorize a single way to program a gun when i own 3 guns. all have tadao and i only gotta memorize 1 set of lights and all that fun stuff.

timmah333 · 09-25-2007, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by custar

So YOU'RE the one who beat me to that marker.

Yeah, I think I beat you out by an hour or so. he is shipping it to me today.

I will post some pics when I get it as the pics I have aren't that good of quality.

I like the idea of the Tadao board as that is what I am using in my DM5, but I wasn't sure.

Thanks for all the post guys! and the warm welcome.

timmah333 · 09-25-2007, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hammar

WAS 2.0 seems to be the fastest Viking board and has the same functions as the Tadao

Do you know where I can find the WAS 2.0 board for sale? Can't seem to find many places that sell parts for these.

At least, I can't find any at the normal places I shop for paintball gun parts.

cockerpunk (Banned) · 09-25-2007, 03:55 PM

isn't the only difference between a was 2.0 and the most other was boards, the software? i think from 1.8 on, they were fully multimode and such. i have a was in my my excal, and tis fast as a theif. however, i think the pandora's are easier to get all the multimode stuff. i'd like to get some sort of full auto on my excal if only for testing purposes.

TastePAINt88 · 09-25-2007, 04:29 PM

Ive had was, and a broken pandora. Its time for me to try tadao, Ive only heard good things.

PaintballerFourLife · 09-25-2007, 05:53 PM

WAS 2.0 ftw. Best $20 board in existence.

custar · 09-26-2007, 09:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by timmah333

Yeah, I think I beat you out by an hour or so. he is shipping it to me today.

Ouch. One hour. Enjoy a fine marker, and welcome to the family.

custar

timmah333 · 09-27-2007, 12:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by custar

Ouch. One hour. Enjoy a fine marker, and welcome to the family.

custar

Thanks yo. I should be getting it tomorrow.

timmah333 · 10-01-2007, 01:23 PM

Well, I received my 03 Viking last week and took some pics.

I am super stoked about this as I got it for $200 but damn, this baby needs alot of love before I can take her to the field.

Besides all the rust around all of the fittings and screws, here are the things I found that I have to replace:

Board (completely fried)
Eyes (connectors bad)
Screw kit (half of the screw were rounded out and all of them were very rusty)
Trigger switch (broken in half)

One good thing I found is that it does have a humphrey noid in it.

Anyway, I have all needed parts on order as well as a SCM III and a Mitey Max.

I will repost some new pics and maybe a vid once I have it up and running.

Terrorfakt · 10-01-2007, 03:40 PM

Hey, my viking was just put in the mail today to. It is an unmilled 2004 with the scm, mitey max and was board (not sure which version). I was thinking about getting some milling done... nothing too fancy, just some basic weight reduction, taking off the extra bolt guide on top (half-blocking?) and smoothing out the lines along with a re-anno. Any ideas? Im in WA so local would be great and I'm kindof on a tight budget so cheap (price not quality!) would be cool. Very excited to get this in the mail!

Wulf1010 · 10-01-2007, 04:10 PM

Hey Timmah, you ever find out what board your gun was running? and its a nice looking gun by the by.

timmah333 · 10-01-2007, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wulf1010

Hey Timmah, you ever find out what board your gun was running? and its a nice looking gun by the by.

It's a WAS board. I am not sure what version.

timmah333 · 10-01-2007, 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Terrorfakt

Hey, my viking was just put in the mail today to. It is an unmilled 2004 with the scm, mitey max and was board (not sure which version). I was thinking about getting some milling done... nothing too fancy, just some basic weight reduction, taking off the extra bolt guide on top (half-blocking?) and smoothing out the lines along with a re-anno. Any ideas? Im in WA so local would be great and I'm kindof on a tight budget so cheap (price not quality!) would be cool. Very excited to get this in the mail!

Congrats on the new Vik! I really like the "Destructive Milling" from Destructive Customs. I don't really like the look of the gap behind the inline reg that you get with the full FSP milling. Or a nice swirl looks pimp if you want to spend the $.

Wulf1010 · 10-01-2007, 06:53 PM

if its a WAS and dead somebody probobly tried to reflash it and in the process killed it. I just got one like that, send it back to WAS and they fix it

timmah333 · 10-01-2007, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wulf1010

if its a WAS and dead somebody probobly tried to reflash it and in the process killed it. I just got one like that, send it back to WAS and they fix it

A new Pandora board will be here tomorrow so Im really not all that worried about it.

Thanks for the heads up though.